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Mazda Protege5
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reliable over the years never breaking down. Of course today at 112K the car needs a wheel bearing again and the hub and a control arm for a good $1200 bill.
That would actually be ok but the car itself is rusting to pieces in the rear wheel wells, the bottom of all 4 doors and the middle of the hatch... its like we brought an old Fiat from the early 70s. Even if we repair everything the car will rust to pieces while the motor keeps going. So disappointed..Mazda almost made a good vehicle but lost us as customers forever.
Then I discovered the cruise problem. Let me know if you find a solution. (Other than replacing the central relay!)
dingo1
Yes, rust is a definitely a problem although I wouldn't say it's unique to Mazda vehicles. My previous car, a Toyota Corolla, also started rusting at the door bottoms, rear quarter panel, etc. as a result of scrapes and scratches in spots difficult to see (e.g. bottom of doors) and to not being rustproofed early enough (I waited until the second year). In the Protege, I've noticed the rust starting to re-emerge in the wheel wells, two years after the problem was corrected. The problem is minor for now but it won't take long before it grows into something more serious. I am considering keeping the car for another couple of years and have not decided what to do about the situation.
Here's an update on my 2002 Protege5 which will be celebrating its 7th birthday in a little over a month. Overall, I have had a great time with it. The P5 is still nimble, safe and fuel efficient (avg. 25 mpg).
Annual mileage has gone down as I no longer need to drive to work. Total in May 2009 should be about 120,000 km. (75,000 miles) for an annual average of over 17,000 km (11,000) miles.
The good news is that there are no additional troublespots since last year's report. So in 7 years the following major problems occurred:
1) Dunlop performance tires wore very quickly (after 25K miles); BF Goodrich Traction T/A tires have been a very good replacement
2) rust around rear wheel wells; repaired by dealer and Mazda Canada under good will agreement;
3) EGR failed; replaced by dealer (at a moderate cost)
4) Steering rack failed / damaged (at a significant cost); this was likely due to a driving error on my part.
My overall assessment: feels as good as new and is still a great car!
I had the original Dunlaps and got 60,000 miles so I can understand those who claim they got much less. I drive back and forth from So Cal to No Cal. So lots of highway mileage. No complains though I now use all weather Kumos which are wearing well.
Only thing I've had to do was a water pump at 80,000 and just recently new timing belt. Wasn't a lot of wear on it but I decided to replace for safety. Rust only shows on brakes so I have to believe those complain about rust must live in cold weather areas.
Front rotars were just replaced at 170,000 miles.
Original clutch which I can't believe. If I keep the car under 80, around 76-78 mph, I get 32 miles per gallon. In town 25. I don't drive the hard but I don't baby it either. I have the car as high as 110 mph and the car was very smooth. No fear.
Like everyone else, I like this car because it drives like a sport car in cornering and I have great torque power with aftermarket equipment. I also own a 2007 Speed 3 but I prefer driving this car on a daily basis because it is more fun to drive. Speed 3 is a great car for its cost and equipment, but the P5 is lighter and feels more agile. 5spd transmission much smoother than the 6 spd on the Speed3. Better gas mileage, too, but Speed 3 gives very good mileage for a high performance car.
I think the PR5 is a better car than the current Mazda 3. And with my slight modifications, it's a quicker car.
THe results of your comparison amaze me. I would have thought that you would prefer the MazdaSpeed3 for the added power and transmission. It's high praise for the Protege5 to say it is more agile and smoother than the MS3.
1) Dunlop performance tires wore very quickly (after 25K miles); BF Goodrich Traction T/A tires have been a very good replacement
2) rust around rear wheel wells; repaired by dealer and Mazda Canada under good will agreement;
3) EGR failed; replaced by dealer (at a moderate cost)
4) Steering rack failed / damaged (at a significant cost); this was likely due to a driving error on my part.
5) Rear stabilizer links failed (corrected at a moderate cost).
My overall assessment: feels as good as new and is still a great car!
I agree, the P5 is better than the Mazda3; better cornering, better looks, better sound system. Agile cornering is better than anything I've ever driven, including recently a Chrysler Crossfire (Mercedes suspension). I still prefer the cornering characteristics of the Dunlops over the Kuhmo's.
Outside of some rear door rust (WI winters), and swarbar links, My 03 P5 still seems fine at 130K miles. Good to hear that at 170K, it should still be solid.
Couple of questions:
Have you ever changed 5-speed trans fluid? If so, with what, how long ago, did it have any effect pos or neg?
Did you replace brakes w/ other than standard Mazda equipment?
I've heard K&N filters allow more dirt particles through, possibly fouling sensors. Any issues so far?
Thanks.
This may be a solution for others who spot the problem early and decide to do it themselves.
p.s. it is not surprising that cars rust in Canada considering the amount of salt dumped on our roads.
Mine, too! It's a 2002 and will be starting its 8th year in two weeks. Municipalities should go on a strict salt diet; it's not only better for the environment it's also easier on the wallet. In any case, have a great non-salt summer.
p.s. a friend of mine is still driving my 1991 Toyota Corolla that has been afflicted by the four letter cancer; his solution is "have no shame". It may not look pretty but it's still chugging along.
I took this part out I took the door cover and now driving without it to see if I can find where the noise is coming from-just drives me crazzy
I plan on taking the car to get it checked out by my mechanic, but wanted people's opinions who've owned the car. It's a 2002 with an automatic transmission.
Thanks!!!
Good thinking!
My 2002 P5 has been both a lot of fun and very practical. It has nowhere close to 130K miles as it's not used for commuting. At approximately 70K miles it has had its issues (see posts 7811 and 7815 above) but many of these were due to normal wear and tear and the occasional mishap. In sum, one great car!
Your mechanic should do a thorough check of the following:
- body (check for rust around rear wheel wells, door bottoms and underside)
- brakes (all four but especially the state of the front discs)
- tires (get a reading of the tread life and when to have them replaced)
- engine components (including radiator, battery, hoses)
- suspension components (including struts, stabilizer links, mounts)
- any parts that have been repaired due to accidents.
Also, try getting a copy of the service records showing that the previous owner has maintained the vehicle properly (including replacement of the timing belt and regular servicing). You'll feel a lot better knowing its pedigree.
All the best!
touchwood: no problem so far
Including original timing belt?
Hmmm. So, you're on the highway doing 70 mph and the belt snaps, what's next? Wouldn't it be prudent to have the belt replaced according to the manufacturer's specs?
Does anybody have anything to add to help me make my decision????
Please help!!!
Gerdie
Have you considered the BF Goodrich Traction T/A 195/50/R16 V rated tires?
I chose Kumho's a while back because of price & ratings, vs OEM Dunlops.
IMO, price was the only advantage.
Dunlops were better in snow. Dry cornering w/ Dunlops is much more responsive. Initially, Kumho's are better in rain. Once a bit worn, they are no better than Dunlops.
If you are looking for an alternative to OEM Dunlops, you may want to continue towards Goodyear, Goodrich, etc.
Good luck.
O15
Even with 170,000 miles, I have never replaced my brakes other than pads. Pads were not Mazda. They're fine.
In reference to the K&N filter, no issues of sensors. And I've had the K&N filter for almost 100,000 miles.
I'm in So California and have not any problems that I've read by other owners but I have to think it's the climate and how they drive. Only big thing was a water pump at 80,000 miles and that's been it. Same clutch which I can't believe. The gearbox is smoother than my Speed 3. 6 spd turbo.
The K&N filter gives a deep sound and if you don't care for it, you might not want a K&N. But I think it gives a "throaty, deep" sound which sounds cool.
Hope info helps but I'm keep my PR5 til it drops.
Good luck.
K&N for 100K miles is as good a testimony as any. "Deep" sound would be welcome.
My clutch at 140K is still hanging on - longest of any I've driven.
I agree, climate must be an issue, particularly w/ rust/paint.
Outside of any major issues, I'll also be keepin my P5 as long as I can.
Thanks again.
Anyway, PR5 and the Speed 3 are great cars and I'm fortunate to own both of them. The give me the best of two worlds --- one drives like a go kart with the feel of the road & great gas mileage, and the other, well, it was when it came out in 2007 and still one of the best money rockets for your buck!
My only M3 experience is dealer test drives. I agree, it's more refined, but I found it leaning during cornering. The M3 Speed seemed a little tighter.
One of the best features, IMO, of the P5 is the go-cart like cornering & ride. What it lacks in straight line acceleration (keeps speeding tickets low) I make up for in cornering fun. I changed tires a couple years back & lost the crisp go-cart feel, so am back to Dunlops.
I'm curious as to what tires you're running on both.
The trip sounded like a blast!
Thanks for the info.
O15
I think if put a K&N filter, turbo muffler & have the computer reprogam like I did, you find accerleration in PR5 much better. I know when I hit 4000 rpm the engine really comes on. Zipping from 80 in fifth gear to 90 seems like nothing. I gone high as 110 mph with the car going up the Grapevine Highway hill grade going back to LA and I was shocked.
Of course, even with these modifications, Speed 3 is much faster in accerleraton. You be interested to know I'm going to have the Speed 3 dyno with Cobb Access Port map. Car has currently a racing downpipe and Cobb Cold Air Filter. The car should easily be pushing over 320 hp according to the tech guy who is going to dyno the car.
As for tires, I have using Kumos All Season tires. I forgot the model but they have been mentioned in other comments in this forum. Here in So Cal, the tires are effective due to weather. Not much difference between all seaon tires and summer tires like the Dunlaps unless it's wet surface according to a Road & Track article I read about tires. I agree.. By the way, I got 65,000 on my Dunlaps that came with the car. I was told that was a high number for a performance tire but again, it's how you drive the car. I drive a lot between No and So Cal so most of my mileage is highway, straight riding.
Tires on Speed 3 are Bridgstone High Performance tires that came with car. 18" wheels which means I'm not going to get much mileage on them. I have 26,000 on them now and if I get 10,000 more, I'll be lucky. I was told going down to 17" would be better for performance and wear. Also they are 215s which an odd number. Next set will be 225s and probably again Kumos all seasonal. The extra width probably will make up difference of a high performance tire. I can tell you turning the same corners the Speed3 is tighter but not the same feel of the lighter and lower PR5. Feels racier as you know.
By the way, mustangleader is my user name because I own a 1968 Mustang fastback. Engine is modified with flowmasters so the sound and ride is completely different. And yes, the Speed 3 is much faster even when it was stock.
As I said, I'm driving the PR5 til it drops. 176,000 plus currently. I expect to get at least 300,000 miles which I got from a1989 Nissian 240x. A great corning car ... even better than the PR5 because it is rear supension drive.
Hope this provides you with more info.
I had the muffler & reprogamming of the computer done first. I instantly felt the power via rpm accerleration. When I added K&N, that's when hitting 4000 rpm (which is the max torque 135 according to Mazda) the car really responded.
As I said, you love the K&N filter sound so I suggest if you do anything, the cold air filter and the reprogramming of the computer. You won't have complaints about accerleration. The muffler adds a great sound like the Speed 3.
Hope this helps.
Hey "mustangleader" - what company reprogrammed your computer?
P.S. - Reading your post really gets me excited for my P5!
So I just bought an 02 P5. It has roughly 95,000 miles.
Here's my issue:
When I start driving the car for the first time on a given day, when I shift from 1st to 2nd gear the car shutters/shakes violently. It's only when I shift from 1st to 2nd, and after I've been driving for about 10 minutes it stops happening. Has anyone experianced this? Should I be concerned? Any ideas on why this might be happening?
Thanks!
email: gustavo_cr02@hotmail.com
For the last week or so my 2002 Protege5 had a loud rattle upon startup and acceleration. It wounded like metal scraping on metal. A mechanic at my garage checked it out and determined that it was parts of the heat shield; the fix involved removing some parts (clamps, etc.) from the exhaust system. The car is purring again!
You might want to check the related forum for the Mazda Protege where I think your feedback is being considered. In any case, I've always found your comments of interest, whether I have the problem or not. Some of us learn from others problems and solutions. Keep the faith!
I hear you. Mine is in its ninth year but with only half the miles (I don't commute to work) so I'm hoping for at least another two or three more years before I hand it over to a buddy of mine. The Pro has had its issues but on the whole has been a great ride.
What are you planning as your replacement vehicle?
Personally, I'm turned off the Mazda3 although it still has many positive features. I am looking for a light (under 3K lbs.) hatchback that is fuel efficient (30+ mpg combined city/highway) with a sporty, fun-to-drive demeanor. The Mazda2, the Ford Fiesta, the Golf TDI and the future Civic CRZ all seem promising based on what I've read. Oh, to be in Europe where all the wonderful hatchbacks roam!