Easy fix. Just search the web for Rubicon locker bypass.
I've never had a need to use my lockers when in 4hi. If I'm that stuck, I'm wanting 4LO to get out and that is when the lockers are the most help. Using lockers at higher speeds COULD cause problems if you are a road with good traction (in case you forget you are in 4 hi or have lockers engaged).
The other times lockers can be useful in 4HI are in some types of mud and sand. 4HI and a gentle right foot will often get/keep you going in circumstances where 4LO will will break traction and spin the wheels. Being able to use lockers at those times will be an added bonus.
However, as you alluded to, 4HI plus lockers at speed on a high traction surface is a disaster waiting to happen.
After I posted that, I looked and found that it is common uses - neither of which I try to spend a lot of time in. Guess that is why I thought it wasn't used nearly as much.
Sand is the main reason I would like to override the locker switch. I found bypass instructions online and want to talk to someone that has done it before I start tapping into wires.
I think that since the 06 was the last year before the big redesign they cut out some of these types of things. I do not have any of these things either.
Thanks to everyone here for all their terrific input over the years. My real estate business has slowed way down plus some undiagnosed health problems the doctors cannot figure out along with large doctors bills forced the sale of the wrangler. Its really depressing as i luv the wrangler, my wife actually cried over letting the wrangler go it was out baby so to speak. However, we need a place to live for the family.
Ya never really get rid of the wrangler bug and i really enjoyed the jeep wave, i will miss the comaraderie and the jeep, just not another vehicle that has the history or instant recognishion of the wranger ....maybe one day i will be back with another wrangler...thanks again I hope to be a wrangler owner again some day...
I have done it and it is very straightforward. Mac is right about the warranty concern. I used two 3M wire taps that did not require cutting of the factory wiring. Those, along with the 4" of wire needed, can be removed in about 5 minutes (mostly to remove center dash panel) if I ever needed any drivetrain-related warranty work (haven't yet, knock on wood). Lots of write-ups out there and some involve switches, etc. that I did not find necessary. Be sure the write-up you choose to follow details wire color by year as they changed year to year. Lastly, I used the wire taps to ground the locker lead to the negative cigarette lighter lead because of proximity; made for a quick, clean and easily reversible install. Best bang-for-the-buck mod I did.
Nope - I live south of there in Moscow, but Shoshone County has more fun back roads than Latah County, so I try to get over there a few times each year. Technically, I'm a NATIVE of the other end of Idaho. Been up here for a long time, though.
Just got back from a trip to Montana. They have some fun spots, too. I'm driving a Liberty, so I stick to more tame fare that isn't really worthy of the Wrangler forum. In fact, today I drove up a fairly steep and rutted road to an old ghost town, only to find some guy and his family ahead of me in a Pontiac Bonneville. With Pennsylvania plates, too - so he'd driven all the way across the country to show me up! :-)
I've been lurking on this board since I found it when i still had my 97 Wrangler. By the way, hi tomster, Mac, and all the rest of your guys.
Since then, I've upgraded to an 01 Wrangler, but this new-fangled model 07 has given me the fever again. What is the opinion versus the TJ now that it has been out for awhile? I expect it to be better in all respects, but not sure.
I like it, but not enough to swap my '99 Sahara (bought new) for one.
Gripes include a serious electrical problem on a small but significant number of vehicles, impaired rear seat access compared to the previous model, lack of pricing discounts compared to earlier models, inferior engine performance from the Unlimited when towing.
Maybe I'll think about it in 2010. The trouble is that while it looks nice, it doesn't really do much that I can't do with my '99.
I too have been lurking around for a while and thanks to all for advice!
I have an '05 Sport and have done some minor mods - body armor bumpers, jeeperman skidz, piaa fogs, bushwacker flares, etc etc. But now I feel the need to do some more! It never ends - i love it.
I had been holding off on tires because, honestly, there is a lot of tread left on the tires i had and I didnt want to mess w/warranty too much...but, I got a great deal on some 33x12.5 tires and am looking for some advice...
1) I am looking at a RE 3.5" SuperFlex Lift. Anything besides the stock kit that I should be looking at for this? My off-road time is not too much and pretty easy stuff.
2) I have the canyon wheels and, if possible, i would like to avoid buying new wheels at this time. Think there will there be any backspacing issues? Options?
As one who has Canyons and 33x12.5's I can say you WILL have issues with the BS. If you are dead set on keeping the Canyons, check out Spidertrax wheel spacers at a place like 4x4groupbuy (http://www.4x4groupbuy.com/store/spidertrax-wheel-spacer-jeep-xjyj-whs002-p-943.html). They will go on and effectively change your BS to 4.25". If you aren't too concerned about the Canyons, ship a couple to me and get some black steel wheels with about 3.75-4" of BS and you'll be just fine.
Another thing to consider is your gear ratio. If you are at 3.73, you may be okay, but I don't know your gear ratio or transmission type. For 33's, 4.10 or 4.56 would be a better gear choice than 3.73 or the dreaded 3.07.
What erickpl said. If you have an auto then 3.73 will probably be ok if that's what you already have. If it's a manual then you'll need the 4.10 or 4.56.
Oops...sorry...manual w/3.73 so sounds like i'll need to do something there.
Thanks for the input...exactly why I asked here!
Ship a couple canyons to you? My bad...they are Ravines but looks like I will have the same problem. Ha....you may see them on ebay as that has been helping me support my habit.
I got my Canyons off eBay. If I knew then what I know now, I would have gotten some wheels with about 4" of BS instead of the stock 5.5's. I love my TJ with the Canyons though and like the alloys for my 4 cyl engine.
I could post another pic of my TJ all shiny and clean showing it off, but I don't wanna be a picture hog!
I've seen your posted pics before...nice jeep!! I have the before and during pics of mine done and hopefully in a week or so i'll have some 'afters' to post.
The 2007 is a bit more civilized, but who wants a civilized Wrangler?
I do, but I'm not willing to sacrifice off-road abilities to get it.
I actually like the bare-bones nature of the TJ; my wife drives a crossover and while it handles great and makes a dandy long distance cruiser, I'd just as soon drive my Sahara on any trip of less than 100 miles(and under 70 mph).
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
Good points. I think I will wait until they work the kinks out, and that may take awhile. How long did it take to get the TJ right? About 4 model years to fix body mounts, manifold problems, etc?
By '98 1/2 they had most stuff done except the exhaust manifold issue, though to be fair it took several years for it to show in large numbers. The fix for existing manifolds came out in late '98 and the whole system was redesigned in '00.
You should be safe by the end of the second model year. It's just a guess though.
I changed my rotors and pads this weekend, but ran into something I suspect will be a not-so-good of thing.
The lower bolt that holds the caliper onto the knuckle (on the driver side) came out EASILY w/o really even using a wrench to get it out. Looking at the threads, it looks like whoever did the last brake job just kinda stuck it in there and probably cross threaded it. When I reassembled everything, I tried using the upper bolt to see if I could get it to grip well, and it went in just as easily as the other came out. So I'm thinking the hole on the knuckle where I fasten the bolt is stripped out pretty good.
I DO NOT like the idea of having one bolt on the caliper securely and one basically just stuck in there - it WILL come out. Can I drill out that hole a tiny bit, use a slightly longer Grade 8 bolt, and use a nut to attach this? Or will I run the risk of having that nut be in the way of brake/rotor operation?
There appears to be a gap big enough to fit a nut between the knuckle and the back of the brake pad, even with it in the widest open position that it is in now with the new pads on.
I won't drive the TJ until I resolve this.
I'd prefer to not replace the knuckle (cost, time, and knowledge to replace it), but if it is the best course of action, then so be it. In an XJ D30 knuckle the same as a TJ D30 knuckle (driver side in particular)?
There are two possible solutions to your problem. One is to drill out the stripped thread, rethread it and insert a HELICOIL.
The second is to replace the knuckle, and the good news is that the part number is the same for both the XJ and TJ (5206 7577).
Now, whoever did the brakes last, and I hope it wasn't you, dramatically overtightened and almost certainly ruined the bolts. Here's an excerpt from the FSM:
"Coat caliper mounting bolts with silicone grease. Then install and tighten bolts to 15 N·m (11 ft. lbs.). CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed, or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull condition, check caliper bolt length before proceeding. Bolts must not have a shank length greater than 67.6 mm (2.66 in.)"
Yes, that's just 11 ft/lbs! Replace all of them, and get the new ones from the dealer.
Oh, and reserve the 'longer bolt with added nut' method solely for getting yourself out of the woods. :shades:
I have a 'knuckle repair kit' coming from the same guy who developed the Vanco big brake kit and it includes everthing I need to install the inserts, including the drill bit, insert tools, bolts, etc.
I knew the torque was minimal on those bolts. I tightened to 11 on all but that last one and it just spun in and out like there was nothing there.
any know of any offroad stores here in houston? i want to make some upgrades to the jeep but i would like to see the items before i purcahse them. :shades:
x2 on the backspacing feedback above. I am running 4.5" of backspacing with 33x12.50's, but they are 10x16" wheels so I can get away with a little more backspacing than the same size tires mounted on the more typical 8" wheel (tire doesn't protrude as far beyond the rim). BTW, the 10" wheels were personal preference and most folks--especially anyone who wheels in the rocks--prefer 8" for 12.50's.
With respect to the RE 3.5" Superflex kit, I have been very pleased with mine. Installed it myself in the driveway with some help in maybe 8 hours. There are a couple of issues that you should be aware of. First, the addition of the lift and larger tires will dramatically impact your gas mileage. Ask 5 people about what to expect and you will get 10 different answers Secondly, any short arm kit that gives up that much lift will impact your ride quality. Some are better than others and many here swear by the OME lifts for their on-road manners, but the fact is the further you move the controls arms away from horizontal the choppier the ride is going to be. Lastly, many RE 3.5 installs do not require installation of a slip yoke eliminator on the t-case, adjustable upper control arms or a rear drive shaft change, but some do. Just be mentally and financially prepared in the unlikely event that your lift triggers other mods to eliminate a resulting driveline vibration. Good luck!
Hey, I have an 06 Unlimited Rubi, my third Jeep, and have a massive brake dust issue. When I first got it, for about three weeks, I didn't have the problem. Then one day I was backing out and noticed oil on my clean garage floor. So I went looking and discovered the main, rear brake line - the one that goes into the "T" block on the rear axle, was unscrewing.
I screwed it back in and took it to the dealer. I wanted them to bleed the brakes, they did not. Immediately thereafter each week (300 miles) of 80% highway my front wheels are black. I took it to another dealership (I could do this myself, but they should too) and demanded they bleed the brakes. This time they did, but the problem persists.
Any clues?
I feel it's worth pointing out that I've driven a standard all my life and do not stand this Jeep on its nose when stopping. If anything I'm trying to baby it. The dealership tells me everything is perfect and brake dust is a way of life. I've never had this on other Jeeps and don't see it on any in my area.
Is this normal, is the additional weight of the Unlimited causing this?
I'm afraid I can't see any connection between your leaking brake line and the excessive brake dust. Brake dust is directly related to the composition of the brake pads, although a badly corroded rotor can cause premature pad wear and an increase in the amount of dust produced.
If you have to clean your front wheels every 300 miles of mostly highway driving, either you're a neat freak or there's something dramatically wrong with your brakes.
After checking your rotors are ok you might suggest to the dealer that somehow the wrong composition pads have been fitted, and that it might be appropriate to change them to see if that solves the problem.
You'll probably get better results if you ask or suggest, rather than demand. :shades:
If the rear brakes are not grabbing (loose line = air in system), the 30-40 percent distribution attributed to the rear now moves fully to the front brakes.
And yes, something is dramatically wrong. When the wheels are black, that's a problem. I'd like to know what luck people have by suggesting something to the dealer? I didn't think the whole dealer exchange was neccessary, but I'm happy to provide the detail if it matters. Lets just say everything you listed, came out of my mouth and nothing was happening.
After bleeding the brakes the Jeep quit standing on its nose, but now, as I said, the dust issue continues. My concern is the rotors were scored. Hence my post, if any other Unlimiteds have seen this or if this is 'normal' as says the dealer.
If you make your point as you have here, but in a calm, rational, matter-of-factly manner, you get a lot further. Explain to them that the problem you had with the rear brake line may have contributed to premature wear/problems with the front and you wanted them to verify this. By saying you understand one problem could have led to another, you are letting them know that you've thought about it and are trying to help isolate it. If they can make the connection between the rear brake line being lose and the increased front braking required to stop, then you may be able to have them replace the pads and rotors. If not, you can get new aftermarket rotors and stronger/grippier brake pads (Performance Friction comes to mind) for not too much and change it out yourself w/o even having to bleed the brakes again (unless you introduce air while doing it).
I have used this approach when dealing with my car dealer (non-Jeep). I try to understand what is happening and understand what may cause it and bring in everything I can think of to help them diagnose and correct the issue. Never am I confrontational with them. I take the positive attitude that I know the vehicle should not be doing this and here's what I think may have led to it doing what it is doing now. They tend to appreciate the help (even if they're not) because you are wanting to make their job easier.
Getting pissy with the dealer is not going to get you anything. If you have another dealer nearby that could help you, and hasn't been exposed to the negative attitude, it may work better for you.
Getting pissy with the dealer is not going to get you anything.
I guess we're on the same page. Customer service staff in all businesses have systems in place to deal with pissy customers, whether the customer has a legitimate complaint or not.
However, they rarely have a way of dismissing the polite, reasonable, and doggedly determined customer who is prepared to escalate up the chain of management until he gets the correct resolution to his problem.
I have an '05 Unlimited with hardtop, winch and heavy bumbers front and rear. I have, and always have had, a "normal" amount of brake dust on the wheels. I have not heard this complaint elsewhere so I would suggest that your issue is not at all typical or normal. If your dealership is not a terribly long way away I would suggest that you clean your wheels and drive over there. Ask to see a service mgr and show him your clean wheels and note your mileage for him/her. Tell him you will make an appointment to return after 300 miles and show him/her the accumulated dust. My guess is this will dispel the myth that you are a nut who is complaining about a "normal" byproduct of operation your Jeep. Good luck!
Holy cow. Thanks for jumping to the pissy customer conclusion, based upon nothing. I thought I made it perfectly clear there was a lot of history that I thought was irrelevant to the situation. Yet, all you want to focus on is how you think I treated the dealer.
Since you are sensitive to their needs, they have handled three of my dodge/chrysler vehicles (10+ years, regular changes and never had a problem), and their service manager coaches my son's Pinto baseball team, and we often share beers together. So please, lay off the woe is dealer, Jabone is a bad man tact. If that's all you have to add, please save the world the bandwidth.
I thought this was a Jeep forum, not service dept. negotiation lecture. Meaning, I'm looking for informed technical opinions on my Jeep. The dealership is irrelevant. In fact, this past weekend I purchased another car from their Nissan branch for a commuter.
Thank you WPowell for some helpful information; that this is unusual. I asked if there were different front pads for the std. wrangler vs the unlimited, and was told no. The guy at my local offroad shop says not quite, there are different pads because the Rubicon has rear disks. So I'm stopping by tomorrow, and be my normal polite self. :surprise:
Holy cow. Thanks for jumping to the pissy customer conclusion, based upon nothing. I thought I made it perfectly clear there was a lot of history that I thought was irrelevant to the situation. Yet, all you want to focus on is how you think I treated the dealer.
Holy cow indeed, it's not always about you! :surprise:
That post you're referring to was in response to erickpl (not you!) in which I said that generally (not about you!) honey works better than vinegar.
What I did say to you, which was in response to your comment:
"I took it to another dealership (I could do this myself, but they should too) and demanded they bleed the brakes. ",
was "You'll probably get better results if you ask or suggest, rather than demand. :shades: " The rest of my post was about your brakes.
I'm not sure how that one line suggestion escalates to my focusing on how you treat the dealer? Maybe I used the wrong Emotorcon? I'll try again with a different one. How's this?
You'll probably get better results if you ask or suggest, rather than demand. :P
Again, that's a suggestion in response to your comment, not a personal attack.
Anyhow, that aside, it's not normal (as I said earlier) to have the front wheels covered in brake dust after 300 miles of mostly highway driving. Depending on the type of wheel you have you can probably see the rotors without removing the wheel. However, the rotors will have to become very badly damaged to cause your problem. It's far more likely to be a pad issue, for which the solution should be quick and simple.
Walk up the tree. Two responses to mine were about how to handle a dealer. I can draw you a cute little diagram if you would like. Your response was that you didn't understand how not having rear brakes could impact the front brakes (that or I'm a neat freak). That's all I needed to hear from you.
Greetings folks. I have been lurking but nothing major to say so I continue to read and learn. A short story for MAC and Tom. I went to get my tires rotated at the local chain tire joint. Picked the Jeep up and I was off to visit friends in Vermont and drive some dirt roads. Hit my first bump at 60 and the wheel did the big time wobble. This continued all the way to Vermont. 225 miles. Got to Vermont and immediately got on this site. Did a search of the wobble and figured I would start with what was easy. Tom and Mac both talked alot about tire pressure so I checked the pressure put in at the tire joint. Four different pressures. 36, 35, 33.5, 33. I then brought all four down to 30 and all manner of wobble disappeared. I will now try 28 based on your recommendations. Thanks guys, hope all is well. Have fun, John
While tire pressures are important, they're not usually related to wobble issues. However, it seems to have worked in this case so I won't knock it.
What size tires are you using? 29psi is the recommendation for 30" and I remember several discussions about 31s, for which the best pressure seems to be between 26 and 28psi.
In the last year I've noticed a fuel odor in, but mostly around the outside, of my Jeep. It's not constant, but it's there on a fairly regular basis. There's no visable sign of gas leaking, and I understand that it could be evaporating before I see it. I've had the evap canister checked, supposedly that's not the problem. Any suggestions on how to further troubleshoot this?
My response was in the "demanding" part of your thread. If you took that as my thinking you were being pissy, then I apologize. Realize that nobody likes to be 'demanded' to do something - not you, certainly not me, DEFINITELY not my wife and probably not the dealer either.
As for the front pads, 300 miles is not far for the dust to form, as mac has said. As I mentioned, the lack of pressure to the rear brakes probably meant you were putting all the stopping force in front - possibly causing more forces than they were meant to handle alone. Even though the rear is fixed now, there may be some issues with the front. You may want to check to make sure the pads are not contacting the rotor during normal driving situations (ie, non-braking). I would think that the situation you had in the rear may have done some damage to the front, which could justify a warranty replacement for the rotors, pads, and possibly the calipers.
I'm not going to try and tell you how to handle it, but making that link between the rear problem and the front problems may give them a better idea as to why it should be a warranty replacement.
Hope you get your situation figured out and to your satisfaction. I'd be curious to see what the final resolution is.
Comments
I've never had a need to use my lockers when in 4hi. If I'm that stuck, I'm wanting 4LO to get out and that is when the lockers are the most help. Using lockers at higher speeds COULD cause problems if you are a road with good traction (in case you forget you are in 4 hi or have lockers engaged).
-Paul
However, as you alluded to, 4HI plus lockers at speed on a high traction surface is a disaster waiting to happen.
Learn every day!
-Paul
The only issue to consider, other than safety, is how it may affect your warranty.
Ya never really get rid of the wrangler bug and i really enjoyed the jeep wave, i will miss the comaraderie and the jeep, just not another vehicle that has the history or instant recognishion of the wranger ....maybe one day i will be back with another wrangler...thanks again I hope to be a wrangler owner again some day...
Jeff
Get well!!!
-Paul
Stick around. It'll help pass the time until you get another.
Nope - I live south of there in Moscow, but Shoshone County has more fun back roads than Latah County, so I try to get over there a few times each year. Technically, I'm a NATIVE of the other end of Idaho. Been up here for a long time, though.
Just got back from a trip to Montana. They have some fun spots, too. I'm driving a Liberty, so I stick to more tame fare that isn't really worthy of the Wrangler forum. In fact, today I drove up a fairly steep and rutted road to an old ghost town, only to find some guy and his family ahead of me in a Pontiac Bonneville. With Pennsylvania plates, too - so he'd driven all the way across the country to show me up! :-)
Dennis
I just now started getting caught up on the posting since I left for vacation. I am terribly sorry about your having to give up your beloved Wrangler.
I hope they come up with an accurate diagnosis and that the health problem turns out to be nothing serious.
Please, stick around on the message board. Like Mac said, ownership of a Jeep is not a requirement around here.
I have just prayed for you and your family.
Keep us posted on how things are going, OK?
Tomster
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y145/tsjay/Vacation 2007 Montana/
http://s4.photobucket.com/albums/y145/tsjay/Vacation 2007 Idaho/
Here's my favorite pic from that trip to Glacier.
Tom
Have you hugged your Jeep today?
Since then, I've upgraded to an 01 Wrangler, but this new-fangled model 07 has given me the fever again. What is the opinion versus the TJ now that it has been out for awhile? I expect it to be better in all respects, but not sure.
Gripes include a serious electrical problem on a small but significant number of vehicles, impaired rear seat access compared to the previous model, lack of pricing discounts compared to earlier models, inferior engine performance from the Unlimited when towing.
Maybe I'll think about it in 2010. The trouble is that while it looks nice, it doesn't really do much that I can't do with my '99.
That's my opinion as well. The 2007 is a bit more civilized, but who wants a civilized Wrangler?
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
I do, but I'm not willing to sacrifice off-road abilities to get it.
-Paul
I have an '05 Sport and have done some minor mods - body armor bumpers, jeeperman skidz, piaa fogs, bushwacker flares, etc etc. But now I feel the need to do some more! It never ends - i love it.
I had been holding off on tires because, honestly, there is a lot of tread left on the tires i had and I didnt want to mess w/warranty too much...but, I got a great deal on some 33x12.5 tires and am looking for some advice...
1) I am looking at a RE 3.5" SuperFlex Lift. Anything besides the stock kit that I should be looking at for this? My off-road time is not too much and pretty easy stuff.
2) I have the canyon wheels and, if possible, i would like to avoid buying new wheels at this time. Think there will there be any backspacing issues? Options?
Thanks for any help!!
Another thing to consider is your gear ratio. If you are at 3.73, you may be okay, but I don't know your gear ratio or transmission type. For 33's, 4.10 or 4.56 would be a better gear choice than 3.73 or the dreaded 3.07.
-Paul
If you have an auto then 3.73 will probably be ok if that's what you already have. If it's a manual then you'll need the 4.10 or 4.56.
Thanks for the input...exactly why I asked here!
Ship a couple canyons to you? My bad...they are Ravines but looks like I will have the same problem. Ha....you may see them on ebay as that has been helping me support my habit.
I could post another pic of my TJ all shiny and clean showing it off, but I don't wanna be a picture hog!
-Paul
Thanks for the info!
I do, but I'm not willing to sacrifice off-road abilities to get it.
I actually like the bare-bones nature of the TJ; my wife drives a crossover and while it handles great and makes a dandy long distance cruiser, I'd just as soon drive my Sahara on any trip of less than 100 miles(and under 70 mph).
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport-2020 C43-1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica
Wife's: 2021 Sahara 4xe
Son's: 2018 330i xDrive
The fix for existing manifolds came out in late '98 and the whole system was redesigned in '00.
You should be safe by the end of the second model year. It's just a guess though.
The lower bolt that holds the caliper onto the knuckle (on the driver side) came out EASILY w/o really even using a wrench to get it out. Looking at the threads, it looks like whoever did the last brake job just kinda stuck it in there and probably cross threaded it. When I reassembled everything, I tried using the upper bolt to see if I could get it to grip well, and it went in just as easily as the other came out. So I'm thinking the hole on the knuckle where I fasten the bolt is stripped out pretty good.
I DO NOT like the idea of having one bolt on the caliper securely and one basically just stuck in there - it WILL come out. Can I drill out that hole a tiny bit, use a slightly longer Grade 8 bolt, and use a nut to attach this? Or will I run the risk of having that nut be in the way of brake/rotor operation?
There appears to be a gap big enough to fit a nut between the knuckle and the back of the brake pad, even with it in the widest open position that it is in now with the new pads on.
I won't drive the TJ until I resolve this.
I'd prefer to not replace the knuckle (cost, time, and knowledge to replace it), but if it is the best course of action, then so be it. In an XJ D30 knuckle the same as a TJ D30 knuckle (driver side in particular)?
-Paul
Good choice!
There are two possible solutions to your problem. One is to drill out the stripped thread, rethread it and insert a HELICOIL.
The second is to replace the knuckle, and the good news is that the part number is the same for both the XJ and TJ (5206 7577).
Now, whoever did the brakes last, and I hope it wasn't you, dramatically overtightened and almost certainly ruined the bolts. Here's an excerpt from the FSM:
"Coat caliper mounting bolts with silicone grease. Then install and tighten bolts to 15 N·m (11 ft. lbs.).
CAUTION: If new caliper bolts are being installed,
or if the original reason for repair was a drag/pull
condition, check caliper bolt length before proceeding.
Bolts must not have a shank length greater
than 67.6 mm (2.66 in.)"
Yes, that's just 11 ft/lbs! Replace all of them, and get the new ones from the dealer.
Oh, and reserve the 'longer bolt with added nut' method solely for getting yourself out of the woods. :shades:
I have a 'knuckle repair kit' coming from the same guy who developed the Vanco big brake kit and it includes everthing I need to install the inserts, including the drill bit, insert tools, bolts, etc.
I knew the torque was minimal on those bolts.
-Paul
Here's the STORE LOCATOR LINK.
With respect to the RE 3.5" Superflex kit, I have been very pleased with mine. Installed it myself in the driveway with some help in maybe 8 hours. There are a couple of issues that you should be aware of. First, the addition of the lift and larger tires will dramatically impact your gas mileage. Ask 5 people about what to expect and you will get 10 different answers
I screwed it back in and took it to the dealer. I wanted them to bleed the brakes, they did not. Immediately thereafter each week (300 miles) of 80% highway my front wheels are black. I took it to another dealership (I could do this myself, but they should too) and demanded they bleed the brakes. This time they did, but the problem persists.
Any clues?
I feel it's worth pointing out that I've driven a standard all my life and do not stand this Jeep on its nose when stopping. If anything I'm trying to baby it. The dealership tells me everything is perfect and brake dust is a way of life. I've never had this on other Jeeps and don't see it on any in my area.
Is this normal, is the additional weight of the Unlimited causing this?
thx!
If you have to clean your front wheels every 300 miles of mostly highway driving, either you're a neat freak or there's something dramatically wrong with your brakes.
After checking your rotors are ok you might suggest to the dealer that somehow the wrong composition pads have been fitted, and that it might be appropriate to change them to see if that solves the problem.
You'll probably get better results if you ask or suggest, rather than demand. :shades:
And yes, something is dramatically wrong. When the wheels are black, that's a problem. I'd like to know what luck people have by suggesting something to the dealer? I didn't think the whole dealer exchange was neccessary, but I'm happy to provide the detail if it matters. Lets just say everything you listed, came out of my mouth and nothing was happening.
After bleeding the brakes the Jeep quit standing on its nose, but now, as I said, the dust issue continues. My concern is the rotors were scored. Hence my post, if any other Unlimiteds have seen this or if this is 'normal' as says the dealer.
I have used this approach when dealing with my car dealer (non-Jeep). I try to understand what is happening and understand what may cause it and bring in everything I can think of to help them diagnose and correct the issue. Never am I confrontational with them. I take the positive attitude that I know the vehicle should not be doing this and here's what I think may have led to it doing what it is doing now. They tend to appreciate the help (even if they're not) because you are wanting to make their job easier.
Getting pissy with the dealer is not going to get you anything. If you have another dealer nearby that could help you, and hasn't been exposed to the negative attitude, it may work better for you.
-Paul
I guess we're on the same page. Customer service staff in all businesses have systems in place to deal with pissy customers, whether the customer has a legitimate complaint or not.
However, they rarely have a way of dismissing the polite, reasonable, and doggedly determined customer who is prepared to escalate up the chain of management until he gets the correct resolution to his problem.
Works for me anyway! :shades:
I have an '05 Unlimited with hardtop, winch and heavy bumbers front and rear. I have, and always have had, a "normal" amount of brake dust on the wheels. I have not heard this complaint elsewhere so I would suggest that your issue is not at all typical or normal. If your dealership is not a terribly long way away I would suggest that you clean your wheels and drive over there. Ask to see a service mgr and show him your clean wheels and note your mileage for him/her. Tell him you will make an appointment to return after 300 miles and show him/her the accumulated dust. My guess is this will dispel the myth that you are a nut who is complaining about a "normal" byproduct of operation your Jeep. Good luck!
Since you are sensitive to their needs, they have handled three of my dodge/chrysler vehicles (10+ years, regular changes and never had a problem), and their service manager coaches my son's Pinto baseball team, and we often share beers together. So please, lay off the woe is dealer, Jabone is a bad man tact. If that's all you have to add, please save the world the bandwidth.
I thought this was a Jeep forum, not service dept. negotiation lecture. Meaning, I'm looking for informed technical opinions on my Jeep. The dealership is irrelevant. In fact, this past weekend I purchased another car from their Nissan branch for a commuter.
Thank you WPowell for some helpful information; that this is unusual. I asked if there were different front pads for the std. wrangler vs the unlimited, and was told no. The guy at my local offroad shop says not quite, there are different pads because the Rubicon has rear disks. So I'm stopping by tomorrow, and be my normal polite self. :surprise:
Holy cow indeed, it's not always about you! :surprise:
That post you're referring to was in response to erickpl (not you!) in which I said that generally (not about you!) honey works better than vinegar.
What I did say to you, which was in response to your comment:
"I took it to another dealership (I could do this myself, but they should too) and demanded they bleed the brakes. ",
was "You'll probably get better results if you ask or suggest, rather than demand. :shades: "
The rest of my post was about your brakes.
I'm not sure how that one line suggestion escalates to my focusing on how you treat the dealer? Maybe I used the wrong Emotorcon? I'll try again with a different one. How's this?
You'll probably get better results if you ask or suggest, rather than demand. :P
Again, that's a suggestion in response to your comment, not a personal attack.
Anyhow, that aside, it's not normal (as I said earlier) to have the front wheels covered in brake dust after 300 miles of mostly highway driving. Depending on the type of wheel you have you can probably see the rotors without removing the wheel.
However, the rotors will have to become very badly damaged to cause your problem. It's far more likely to be a pad issue, for which the solution should be quick and simple.
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
What size tires are you using? 29psi is the recommendation for 30" and I remember several discussions about 31s, for which the best pressure seems to be between 26 and 28psi.
As for the front pads, 300 miles is not far for the dust to form, as mac has said. As I mentioned, the lack of pressure to the rear brakes probably meant you were putting all the stopping force in front - possibly causing more forces than they were meant to handle alone. Even though the rear is fixed now, there may be some issues with the front. You may want to check to make sure the pads are not contacting the rotor during normal driving situations (ie, non-braking). I would think that the situation you had in the rear may have done some damage to the front, which could justify a warranty replacement for the rotors, pads, and possibly the calipers.
I'm not going to try and tell you how to handle it, but making that link between the rear problem and the front problems may give them a better idea as to why it should be a warranty replacement.
Hope you get your situation figured out and to your satisfaction. I'd be curious to see what the final resolution is.
-Paul