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Acura RSX (All years/types)
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There will be no RSX sedan.
My guess is that any changes for the '03 RSX will be of the minor variety, which explains why we're not hearing much about them.
New and improved vanilla is still vanilla, right?
I live in the Washington, D.C. area. What is a good price for a RSX, auto trans, no leather? Thanks for the info. Any comparison with the EX Accord? Similar pricing although I believe the RSX is better made with a longer warranty and no tune-ups for 100K.
Gus Five
Would love any any feedback from other people who own the car?
Would love any any feedback from other people who own the car?
If you're not in a big rush, waiting till the end of year often has it's advantages. The trade off though is not having as not having as big of a selection. If you're picky about color you may want to jump in there sooner than later.
To gusfive- Have you had a chance to check out TMV New Vehicle Pricing Calculator. This will give you the average price in your region. Mind you this is not the lowest cost, but an average cost based on a given period of time. Also, be sure to read the details/exclusions to Edmunds.com base TMV new vehicle prices. Good luck.
Hi khannag- I do think a blk interior will be hotter than a light interior, but also keep in mind that if the dealer has his cars parked in the direct sunlight without any kind of front front window shade, it's going to feel very hot when first stepping in. If you really like black, then using a front windshield shade would be a good solution, imo.
For what it's worth, I was once told by a leather upholsterer that dark colors are easier to maintain than light colors. Black is less likely to show ink marks and other wear/tear....
Others here may have more to add about interior color and pricing. Also, weekends are usually a little slower around here, so perhaps give it a day or two for additional feedback. Good luck.
Revka
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Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
Just got myself a base RSX 5-spd w/ leather as a graduation present, and am loving it. (Course, my old car was a '90 Corolla, and while dependable as a rock, its a little unfair to try to compare with the RSX.) FYI, I live in the DC area, and paid $19,670 at Radley Acura w/ wheel locks. I may have been able to go under invoice, but I stupidly told him that was as high as I was willing to go, so thats what he offered, right off the bat. Even still, I can live with $1,000 under TMV, so whatev.
I had a question re: engine break in procecure. Mainly, IS there one? My buddy had a 2000 Integra Type R, and he was describing to me the process he said you were supposed to go through...(something like, go on the highway, accelerate up to X mph, then slow down, then repeat process, etc.)
I asked my dealer, and he wasn't aware of one. Generally, I've been told to just take it easy for the first 700 miles or so, so I've been trying (mostly successfully) to keep the revs below 3500. Is this enough, or is there some other things I should be doing?
Incidentally, he also told me the oil change intervals in the manual was correct, 10,000 mi, and that the factory fill contained some kind of additives to help break in the engine. Still seems uncomfortably high to me, so I might hedge and follow the severe interval, which is like 7,600 or something. (Don't have the manual in front of me)
Appreciate any input/feedback.
Braking it in you shouldn't use the cruise as you need to vary the speeds.I guess the vavles seed better. Find Himler,Diploid or Vero on this board or RSX VS Triburion. They are in the know.
Ask for Fred ,he's always on RSX vs Trib. I warn you though it gets heated.
My experience (based upon driving 500,000 miles in 6 years on 3 different Honda/Acura cars purchased new) suggests that you should be kind to the car for the first 1000 miles. No hard braking (unless there's an emergency); no hard acceleration; no setting the cruise at 75MPH (or any speed) for the first 300 miles; be gentle with the shifter as the synchonizers wear-in a bit -- no 5-3 downshifts at 6000RPM without double-clutching.
Once you get to 1000 miles, give it the whip!
RE:Oil changes
Despite what many may claim, I have seen no evidence that Honda/Acura cars come from the factory with a special "break-in" oil.
Personally, I drive 6,000 miles monthly (mostly highway) and get my oil&filter changed/tires rotated every 5,000-6,000 miles. I could probably go longer between changes, but I'm not willing to risk damage to my VTEC system by running hard (as I often do) on oil that *might* not be able to provide proper lubrication.
However often you decide to change your oil is up to you and (more properly) how hard you drive.
As far as the first oil&filter change is concerned, I've always believed it's worth $20-30 to get the first change done at 2,000 miles. You just never know what might be floating around in that oil after your car breaks in. As the saying goes, "Pay a little more now, or maybe pay a lot more later."
Enjoy your car! Shiny side up.
To the rest of you: Sorry for clogging up your RSX board with my Prelude questions. Thanks for your patience.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
Integra/RSX competes in a lot more of the market than some people realize... for example, if I had to have a Ford, I'd be stuck between a Contour and a Probe. The Contour is Ford's closest to a 4-door Integra, whereas the Probe is Ford's closest to a 2-door Integra. Obviously, the Integra won that sales battle.
4-door RSX, IMO, would just look weird.
I think Acura could figure it out, though. The 4-door Integra is around, but you can find anything and everything on the streets of Ann Arbor.
Sorry for the four-letter expletive I dropped in here. This is the completely wrong place to mention F**D. Still, I couldn't resist mentioning how it took the Contour and Probe to take on the Integra and still lose out.
(^_^)/
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
The snaps that were installed in the front of the wheel wells should have had a 1/2"-long black rubber compression sleeve behind the washer that the snap screw threads into. As torque is applied to the screw, the black rubber sleeve compresses down onto itself, causing its diameter to increase which in turn keeps it from pulling out of the mounting hole (which is the problem you're having).
If the dealer put your bra on, I would check to make sure that they installed the rubber sleeves (one per side, obviously) when they screwed in the snaps. Do this by unscrewing the snap screws and pulling the screw and washer out of the hole. If there's no rubber sleeve behind the washer, somebody goofed.
If the rubber piece IS there, my suggestion would be to reinstall the washer and screw and then torque the hell out of the screw to ensure that the rubber sleeve is getting compressed all the way down.
If this isn't the solution, I'm stumped!
Let me know what you discover.
Now let me get this straight:
The snap faces outward (duh). The washer goes behind the plastic in the wheelwell. The Black rubber compression sleeve goes between the Snap and the Washer. I have to hold the washer in place while I screw the snap into the rubber compression sleeve. As I screw the snap into the black rubber sleeve, it will compress and become wider than the hole sot it will not come out. Do I have it right?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
snap, black plastic washer, fenderwell liner, rubber sleeve (or, as Honda calls it, "fenderwell nut")
The "fenderwell nut" goes in the hole (behind the fenderwell liner) the plastic expansion clip came out of, the fenderwell liner goes back in place, then the washer, then the screw with the snap on it. Tighten securely.
Should do the trick!
Also,living in Maine there are no Acura dealers .So the dealer where I bought the car wants to mail me oil filters,doesn't Honda carry them?
Well anyways,if someone can tell me how they run there heating and why does a/c green light come on during defrost or defrost and feet?Thanks Joe
filter at 5k.Beowulf is right subwoofer is useless.
Also, I'm going to a synethtic manual tranny fluid after 5k.First to second is knotchy.
Actually, none of the dealers give you the same answer,even when you show them the manual.
The A/C light comes on whenever "defrost" is selected because your windsheild will clear much more quickly if there's dry air blowing on it. Too bad Honda doesn't make this feature engine-temperature dependant, since the A/C doesn't work on cold mornings until the car warms up anyway.
My Prelude does the same thing. I just switch the A/C off if the car is starting cold.
I'd like to switch to 89 octane .What do you think?
If it were my RSX (you've got the Base model, right?), I'd stick with 91 octane or higher for the summer months, when there is a greater chance of detonation due to higher operating temps. You could definately switch to 89 octane once the Fall and Winter months roll around without any trouble, provided you're not out there chasing down WRXs.
My '01 Impreza RS likes 91 or higher in the hot months, even though it's rated for 87. Once the weather cools down, I go back to 89.
Going to several bodyshops to get quotes on stone guard.I'll do fog lights,not headlights . Also, depends on price .Seems lower unit will chip easier.
Got a chip on rocker panel dealer says he'll fix with "Blend In" No way I'm driving 100 mi.Some body shop must carry the same stuff. I noticed it because the primer is black.Silver is nice hides dirt ,but I still think Honda's paint is sub par.
My friend is arguing that it's good for the car. I am little septical about it.
I heard that premium gas will make the car drive longer distance with the same amount of gas compared to regular gas.
Give me your 2cents:)
I would not use anything less than 89 octane in a Base RSX, and a minimum of 91 in a Type-S. Here's why:
Both RSX engines have high compression ratios, which means that there's lots of heat and stress on the valvetrain. Higher-octane fuels not only help to minimize (or eliminate) fuel detonation aka "spark knock" by raising the temperature at which the fuel will ignite, but they also have better detergency properties than low-grade fuel.
Those detergents play a big part in the longevity of your valves' service life by keeping them clean of carbon deposits. Carbon deposits on valves cause "hot spots" which will fatigue the metal and cause it to become very brittle.
I can speak from experience on this one. My 1996 Integra LS was fed a steady diet of 87 octane for 2.5 years, in which time it racked up 218,000 miles. Right before I sold it, the engine started misfiring and losing compression. After a top-end rebuild, the mechanic showed me a valve that was so cooked you could break pieces off from it with your fingers. His suggestions: adjust the valves every 25-30,000 miles and use 89 octane or higher.
Next time around with my '98 GS-R, I used only 91 or higher (as required) and checked the valves every 25K. Now it car has just shy of 228K on the ticker and not a single misfire.
The old adage holds true: "You can pay a little more now, or a whole lot more later!"
But, I have driven throughout the Northeast and have yet to get a "bad" tankful of Hi-test, so I guess that might be some evidence that it's all pretty much the same no matter where you buy it, even if it is a summer formulation. If you find a station with gas that doesn't make your engine knock or hesitate, stick with it.
A Volkswagen salesman told me with the 1.8 turbo he puts 87 0r 89 octane in GTI.
However, he said my Type S being naturally aspirated needs 91 octane all the time.SO I use it not because of what he said but, because of manual.
Seems to me that GTI will be needing a valve job running on anything but premium.IMHO
In the Helpful Links on the left side you'll also find direct links to a several other RSX discussions. Lastly, try putting the words "rsx" into the open Search box (left side) for a complete listing of active and archived RSX discussions throughout Town Hall. Good luck.
Revka
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Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
I have my dealer do the warranty stuff only.Oil changes,pads,etc;I don't have dealer do.I keep my S perfect. Dealers are expensive I find.For instance my dealer wanted $600.00 for stoneguard shield.I went to Xpel and got it for $375.00 and had it installed for $100.00.
Also, I keep all my receipts.
Like any other car being driven in poor weather conditions, it's only as good as its tires.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2022 Wrangler Sahara 4Xe, 2023 Toyota Tacoma SR 4WD
What do you use for other area inside of the car. i don't even know what they are made of. I went to Canadian Tire(popular in Canada), and was amazed that there are cleaners for tire, rim, leather,rubber/venyl/plastic,carpet,body,mirror...and the all purpose ones. After taking a look I wasn't sure what to buy and left. That's called too many choices and it smells like a rip off.
I wonder if it's cheaper to wash yourself or just let some special shop do it for you.
However,I think a good saddle soap or mink oil will serve the purpose to keep the leather supple.
Go to a furnitue store like Lazyboy and ask what they use for a leather cleaner and conditioner.I got some cleaner and softner from them for my recliner and it works great.Going to try it on my S soon.
Ya, I don't think the dealers do too much prepping.
Little did I know that a clear plastic is already polyed on your front lower unit and rear bumper. Go look at where rear bumper meets quarter panel and you will see vinal strip start 1/8 of inch and it covers the whole rear pan.
.
I had it installed on hood and they screwed it up7/10/02 they are going to redo hood hoping it doesn't have to be painted out.
To see the stuff go to www.xpel.com. Acura dealer calls it something else.Himler, I hope your'e reading this.
Revka
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Hatchbacks & Wagons Boards
Or, you could have a chocolate milkshake everday with lunch. That'll definately put a little extra padding between the seat bottom and your tailbone!
That means for long term trips wear cloth that are perfectly flat, expecially for back passenger.