Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance

aurora5000 · August 2003

Was that you talking about the Zaino on the other board? Have you got it yet? Who was that person giving you a hard time?

stickking1 · August 2003

Yes, we are all waiting patiently for Bob's unbiased opinion on the product. Aurora5000...that was another raging "Zaino-holic", they are good people who are sometimes very zealous in their support of the almighty "Z". I'm anxious to see what he thinks of it...I don't feel like I can always trust the claims made by other Zaino fans...but I want to give it a fair shot.

rjs200240 · August 2003

Yeah, I'm "Aurora40" on Autopia (www.autopia.org for those who don't know). My Zaino just arrived yesterday. I don't know when I'll get around to trying it, though. This week I have some stuff to do, next weekend I was gonna try to hit "Corvettes at Carlisle", and then I'm on vacation the holiday weekend.

Plus, with 3 coats of Blackfire and having just put a second application of Souveran on last weekend, the car is looking pretty nice.

Sorry, but you might have to wait patiently for a bit longer. I'll try to find time, though, as I am interested to see how it performs as well.

aurora5000 · August 2003

If I was going to shell out good money, then it had better be a good product. I think Bob uses Meguiars products of which I use some and they are good. No problem on the wait.

Enjoy your time off.

Stick, you are right about some of those folks.
They need to put the pipe down.

rjs200240 · August 2003

Actually, I don't use Meguiar's protectants anymore. I do use their prep and maintenance items, though. I use Swirl Free Polish and the Detailer clay, and I really like #00 carwash and Final Detail for a QD. I also like #36 for wheels, and #39/40 for rubber/vinyl. And All Purpose Cleaner Plus is incredible.

But for protection, I've been using Blackfire for a while now and like it much better than MPPP or Gold Class or #26. It has a nice glow, good depth, a great shine, and it beads like mad. Plus, it seems to hang in there well. My windows have a 3+ month old single coat, and they still bead like maniacs. So Zaino will really have to be amazing to get me to stop using Blackfire.

Pat, yeah, I know, there is a whole detailing thread (and a whole Zaino thread), but this conversation is growing out of the fact that we are all Aurora owners. Plus, we aren't discussing general tips or procedures, but rather what looks good on Auroras...

stickking1 · August 2003

It's a pain to switch back and forth from forum to forum on Edmunds...I mean, this is the Care & Maintenance section of the Aurora board, right? Not to take anything away from the "Paint" forum, but I have yet to find a message board that holds as intelligent a conversation as this one...might as well share our opinions on detailing as well. Just my two cents.

-Brian

rjs200240 · August 2003

I don't know why, but I thought I remember Pat pointing out in the past that there were other forums for this sort of thing. However, I went and did a search back (imagine that!) and Pat doesn't even moderate this board. KarenS does. And she has never said anything to imply this was the wrong place to discuss the care of Auroras.

So my apologies to Pat and Karen!!

Sorry for misrepresenting you.

Here is the most applicable post from Karen on the subject (in response to someone thinking she said this was not the place to discuss Zaino of all things...):

KarenS: Sorry if there was a misunderstanding! Guess I wasn't clear in my last message. My bad. And of course, this is THE place to discuss C&M for your Aurora. :-)

So Brian, looks like we can discuss away. You're right, the Store-bought Waxes thread is ok, but not a lot of good conversation. It is mainly the same basic question over and over from different people.

So, my initial impression of Zaino just seeing it is that it smells nice, and that I probably won't like the shampoo. It says on the bottle to use 2-3 capfuls per gallon of water. So, that means I'd have to use 4-5 capfuls for the 1 1/2 gallons I use. I only use 1.5-2 capfuls of #00 for the same amount of water. So that makes Zaino carwash very expesive vs. #00.

However, that's not what really bothers me. The bottle also says "Use full strength to remove grease and tar"... Now, does that sound like a gentle carwash? It can dissolve tar? That is definitely not what I want out of my regular carwsh. I want it just strong enough to remove the dirt that's on it. Any stronger and it is just unduly harsh. If I have tar, I'll use a tar remover. But I don't want to use a tar remover (in this case, Zaino carwash) when I don't have tar...

One other thing on the bottle is perplexing. It says: "Contains polish and UV blockers", and then the line right below it says "Rinses completely". So do the polish and UV blockers rinse right off? Is it for extra UV protection just while the car is in the process of being washed? A few extra seconds of UV immunity while the soap sits there before you rinse it? Any other company and they'd be booed down for such a thing.

Again, I haven't even tried it yet, though. So it may be wonderful. It's just that all I want a shampoo to do is clean. Not try to clean and protect or polish or remove tar or anything else. Offer the maximum lubrication to safely remove dust, dirt, and grit from my car. Anything more stubborn like tar or hardened bugs, I'd prefer to use a dedicated tool for (one that I use only on the afflicted areas, not all over the car).

aurora5000 · August 2003

Are you still using Final Detail? Is it something you can get OTC or is it mail order? I'm thinking about trying it. Did you ever figure out what the deal was with the mold/fungus on your lid in your detailing bottle?

Thanks,
Steve

rjs200240 · August 2003

I got Final Detail from a local place. It was an auto supply type place that mainly sells to pros. I actually went there for APC+ and EK, and got them to order it. They'd never heard of the Detailer line of Meguiar's, and started stocking it after I had them order for me. I guess you could order it online, but shipping of a one-gallon container would probably be high. I really like it and still use it often. It is much glossier and slick than Final Inspection or Quik Detailer.

The Engine-Kote is what has the mold in the spray bottle. I don't know why, but I'm not overly concerned. Once the bottle gets down to the last 1/4 or so, I'll dump it out and try to clean it up. Not sure what causes that.

aurora5000 · August 2003

Thanks for the info. I went to Meguiars website and typed in zip code under distrubutors and it gave me a small list of where I might try here.
Thanks,
Steve

aurora5000 · August 2003

I went to the local body shop supplier near me and basically had the same experience you did of them not carrying the Detailers line, but I found out I ( or have them)could go downtown and get it at the Warehouse that supplies all the local distrubutors here in town. The warehouse handles all of the Meguiars products. It is the same dist. where I got my 3M SMR in the light color which was next door to the warehouse.

What do you use as a cleaner/waxer for your car?
I was thinking about the Meguiars or Mothers products...

Thanks,
Steve

rjs200240 · August 2003

Steve:"What do you use as a cleaner/waxer for your car?
I was thinking about the Meguiars or Mothers products..."

Hey Steve, I'm not quite sure what you mean by a cleaner/waxer. I was thinking maybe you meant applicator or something, but you said you might use Meg's/Mothers so maybe not.

I wash my car with a sheepskin mitt and #00. When I do a prep (about twice a year) I clay currently with Detailer mild clay, but I want to try Clay Magic as the Meg's Detailer clay leaves my fingers yellow and I leave clay fingerprints on the car. Then I hit it with the Porter Cable, a yellow pad, and some Swirl Free Polish #82. Then I use Blackfire All-Finish Protectant and call it quits. I will apply subsequent coats of Blackfire when I feel like it until it's time to do it all over again.

I like Blackfire because it can be used over glazes and such, is really durable, beads a lot, and it looks awesome. It also doesn't leave any residue in corners and molding and such. I really think it's great stuff. Zaino will really have to be impressive for me to stop using the Blackfire.

Not sure if that answers your question or not.

Edit: Maybe you meant cleaner/wax? I've used the Meguiar's consumer Cleaner/Wax before, and sometimes use it in doorjambs and stuff. It's ok. Not really a great cleaner nor a great wax, though. That's how most of them are I think. If I wanted to do a quick job, I'd probably use Medallion Premium Paint Cleaner first because it's a good cleaner and easy to use. Then follow it up with Medallion Premium Paint Protectant. Both are easy to apply and remove. You'll get better cleaning, and much longer protection that way. Though if it were for someone else's car, maybe you want to go cheaper than that (about $30 for both)

I really don't have a lot of use for a cleaner/wax. I guess what you use might depend on what kind of cleaning you really need. The consumer stuff isn't too tough for cleaning. I think #6 has more cleaning ability, and then #66 has a lot. Klasse AIO is also a cleaner/protectant product that is apparently pretty good on oxidation. Though I'd rather just MPPC/MPPP instead since you'll get about the same shine, a bit more depth/gloss, and it will last a lot longer. AIO by itself doesn't really seem all that durable to me. More than a cleaner/wax, but not really more than a pure wax.

aurora5000 · August 2003

Thanks for the info. What I was thinking about was the #6 Cleaner/wax and then maybe topping off with something like #7 Show car glaze, #5 New car glaze, Hi-tech Yellow wax or Hand polish. Then getting a gallon of Final Detail and doing as needed.
My Meguiars Rx Car care said I needed to wash every week, surface prep 3x a year, polish at least 9x a year, wax 10-12x a year. That's why I was thinking of #6 and Final Detail.

Thanks,
Steve
Enjoy your posts on Showcargarage.com
PS...
I found out the Meguiars Detail Truck was thru here earlier in the year at the National Street Rod Assoc. Maybe next year.

rjs200240 · August 2003

#6 has wax in it. So you'd be putting a glaze on top of the wax which probably wouldn't work very well, and wouldn't last long at all. The glaze wouldn't really work into the paint. #7 and #5 and such are made to be put right onto the paint. Also, if you were then going to use #26, you may as well just use a real cleaner instead of the cleaner/wax. You wouldn't really be saving any steps.

If the paint just needs light cleaning, I'd try #82 or #9, and then maybe #7 or #5 or Hand Polish (#81?). Then top it with #26 for protection. This should give nice depth and gloss. But SFP or #9 has some pretty decent glazing of their own, so you could probably skip the #7/#9/#81 if you didn't feel like doing it. I find the glaze effect, even when "sealed" in, doesn't last as long as the protectant does. So I have sort of given up on the pure glaze stuff. Cool for a garage queen/show car, but I don't need the "makeup". I like SFP because it still has some glaze effect, but also is a nice mild cleaner.

If you have a lighter colored car (where depth doesn't matter much), you might just try MPPC and then MPPP. If you reapply the MPPP every 2-3 months, you probably wouldn't need to redo the MPPC but once or maybe twice a year. MPPP is really shiny and looks nice on light colors. It is also really durable (Meg's claims it is their most durable product). You could also substitute SPF/#9 for MPPC or follow MPPC with #7/#5/#81 or whatever. MPPC is a nice chemical cleaner, but doesn't really add any gloss/glaze. It doesn't do much for swirls either IMO. But it is a good cleaner.

Actually, a sort of different approach I've used sometimes for family member-mobiles when I don't have time to let a product really set is this: I would use a cleaner if needed like SFP, then put on the old Blackfire protectant because it cured right away. However, it isn't real slick and doesn't bead, so I'd then top with #26. This way there was no waiting for hours for a polymer to set, no hazing problems because the original BF was a cinch, they had some durable polymer protection, it looked really good, and it would still feel slick and bead water.

You could also try substitute MPPP topped in that mix if you wanted. I doubt you could find the old BF anymore, except maybe on Abay. I guess if you found someone who hated it, you might get it pretty cheap. Mine is pretty much used up, plus I've given a few 2 oz. samples away to co-workers.

rjs200240 · August 2003

I try to wash the car every week, but I find that as long as it doesn't get rained on (though, if it's one of those rains where the car is still pretty spotless), I can hit the car with the Cali duster and then some Final Detail and a plush microfiber and keep it clean for a couple weeks. I still wash about every other week, and will give up the QDing if the car is getting yucky.

The biggest plus of this is that there are then no wash-induced water spots to contend with. I usually fully QD the car after each wash to ensure no spotting, so this gets pretty tedious. As you know, the Aurora is no small car.

hammen2 · August 2003

RJS, try your Zaino. I think you're going to be impressed. I've used it for two years now and I'll never use wax again (though I haven't tried BlackFire). As I posted in another forum, a friend of mine is going to buff out all of the little scratches and swirl marks from my black beauty on Friday morning (while I put Z on his newly-restored '69 Firebird convertible). I hope to then get 3-4 coats of Zaino on (Z-5, followed by Z-2) over the weekend, so my car is ready for winter. Next, it's the wife's white GTP, then Mom's black Beretta, then my sister's green TrailBlazer, and then it will be winter...

--Robert

aurora5000 · August 2003

Thanks for the info. I need to order the Pro line catalogue from Meguiars. Also need to look up all of your numbers of the products.

Thanks again,
Steve

aurora5000 · August 2003

After looking at Meguiars.com and dealergoodies.com and reading your suggestions several times and trying to match up my goals.

Step 1- Use #9 Swirl Remover or #6 Cleaner/wax (light cleaning)

Step 2- Use #26 Hi-Tech Yellow Wax (protection)

Step 3- Use #51 Final Detail (as needed)

Your input is appreciated since you have used this product line.

Thanks,
Steve

stickking1 · August 2003

Steve, I'll jump in on this one too. I think your system looks good, that was almost exactly what I used before I got my Blackfire (except I used Final Inspec. instead of Final Detail back then). Out of your choices above, I would go with #9 and not #6....especially if you're follwing up with #26. I really like the #26...whenever I do a family member's car, that's what I go for...it really darkens the color of the finish.

-Brian

rjs200240 · August 2003

Yeah, I'd second what Brian said. It looks like a good routine. I'd also say #9 over #6. #9 will likely leave more gloss than the #6 would. #26 is good stuff, but expect to apply it about every 2 months. If you have a light colored car, you might try #16 instead. I've never used it, but here it has a bit more shine, a tad less depth (thus for light cars) but is also the most durable carnaube Meguiar's makes. Though, you can't go wrong with #26, as it is good stuff. I use the paste, never used the liquid. Though you should get whichever you feel more comfortable with. I think you get a lot more value with the paste as you can get like 50 coats out of a tin.

I really love Final Detail. The only time I don't use it is if I want to remove water spots before applying a protectant. Then I'll use Final Inspection or else a QD from the line I'm using (like BF QD). You can also use Final Detail on plastics and vinyl if you want. I don't use it on my dash and such, but do use it on the wood trim in my car. I do it after using a vinyl/rubber protectant on the rest of the car, that way any of the v/r that got on the wood will be wiped off with the Final Detail. And since FD is safe on plastic/rubber, I'm not concerned if while wiping the wood I accidentally get a bit on the rest of the dash/door.

You can call Meguiar's toll free number and ask for a Professional catalog. They'll send it right out to you. Plus, then you'll probably start getting their consumer catalog a few times a year.

aurora5000 · August 2003

I just ordered the Pro cat.
What I will order is #9-#26-#16 and gallon of FD.
I will use the #16 on MY car and use #26 on everyone else.

Is your BF QD the Blackfire Quick detailer? Isn't that over the counter? I might try some of that too.

I am going to follow your suggestions and helpful tips.

Thanks as always,
to Robert and Brian

Steve
PS, I just hit 23K. Gas here in OKC is $1.59

rjs200240 · August 2003

Yeah, the BF QD is the Blackfire quick detailer. I believe you can only buy it from CMA. I only use that when adding layers of Blackfire. I use Final Detail on Blackfire normally. The BF stuff smells nice but it really isn't that amazing. I think Final Detail leaves more slickness and gloss. Plus it's much cheaper.

Let me know what you think of the #16 vs #26. I actually don't use carnauba much anymore, but I found #16 interesting after I heard more about it.

rjs200240 · September 2003

Well, I'm trying it out now... For the latest, just check out the Autopia thread. You need to be registered to read it, so if you aren't you can just wait for the condensed version (or you can register). Once I spend a little more time with it, I'll post my overall impressions here so you don't have to read a ton about it.

So far it's looking nice, but then so does Blackfire. I'd say application is similar to BF as well, Zaino buffs a bit easier, but is a bit more tedious to apply. As far as total effort, they are pretty similar with BF probably requiring a tad less overall time. Plus, I can spread BF with the Porter Cable and use as much as I do Zaino by hand. I'd guess Zaino by PC would require a bit more product than by hand.

aurora5000 · September 2003

It sounds like you did a lot of detail work. It looks incredible. I enjoyed your long post.I should be getting my stuff at the end of the month when I run out of supplies. Looking forward to #9-#26-#16 and gallon of FD.
I will use the #16 on MY car and use #26 on everyone else. With what I am buying, how will my Porter-Cable fit into the formula?

Thanks,
Your Car Looks Great!!
Steve

stickking1 · September 2003

Bob, thanks for the long post...its nice to see an objective review that I can trust on the Z. Will be watching for more...

Steve, I would use the #9 with a white polishing pad on the PC. The use of the machine will give you far greater results with the #9 (which is fairly mild) than can be achieved by hand...if you have problems that don't seem to go away with the #9, you can always order some DACP..then use the #9 as a fololow-up.

I'm assuming that the #26 that you have is the paste and of course the #16 is, so the PC won't be much help there...but that's okay. I think the #26 paste beats the liquid hands down.

-Brian

rjs200240 · September 2003

Basically what Brian said. The #9 by PC would probably be a lot easier, and might be a bit more effective on light swirls.

I'd use it with a yellow Meguiar's polishing pad because that's what I happen to have. Not sure if the white one Brian mentioned is the one that comes with the Porter Cable, or a CMA pad or what? What kinds of pads do you have already? That one that comes with the PC seems closer to a finishing pad, and isn't all that great. I find it is hard to clean, and that the edges crumble off. If that's the only pad you have, it would be okay, though.

Paste waxes can be applied by PC, but I've never tried it. It doesn't seem worth the effort as they are so easy to apply by hand. If it were the liquid, I'd probably use a machine and a finishing pad (the light tan color if you use Meg's pads).

If you are thinking of using the PC, you might check out Swirl Free Polish too. I believe it is a lot like #9, but geared more for machine use. It also comes in a 32 oz. size, so it's a bit cheaper per ounce than the #9. But it may depend on availability and such too. Are you going to order the stuff, or did you find a place that sells Final Detail?

stickking1 · September 2003

Yeah, sorry..the white pad I'm talking about is from CMA (aka Lake Country). It's their Polishing pad as opposed to their yellow Compounding pad...I never remember how they compare to the Meguiars colors.

I'd put in another vote for Swirl Free Polish. I didn't mention it before 'cause you didn't have it...but I love the stuff and it is my favorite choice to follow DACP or to use alone.

aurora5000 · September 2003

I am not sure what pads I do have but I got the PC at Lowe's on sale in January($109) and have not used it as of yet but I believe I did order pads from Autogeek or CMA. I do remember the pads I ordered are NOT FLAT. A little bit of a V shape for better control of product I was told. I only have a few swirl and scratches to remove. I was waiting for Fall to arrive to spend a weekend PC ing the car. I can get almost anything I need at the Wholesaler downtown in OKC (at their retail store next door) where all of the body shops get their supplies from. I guess I ought to see what PC pads they stock.

Thanks to Bob and Brian,

Steve

rjs200240 · September 2003

I checked Autogeek, and it doesn't seem like they sell Porter Cable pads. Also, it sounds like you got the CMA Variable Contact pads. They are concave in the center, and convex on the outer part. So there is a ridge around the pad about halfway out.

Anyway, in that case the white pad is the polishing pad. If your swirls are pretty light (more like spiderwebbing), try the polishing pad with some #9 or Swirl Free Polish. If the swirls are a bit heavier, this probably won't cut it. You could try #9 or Swirl Free Polish with a cutting pad (yellow from CMA) and I'm curious if this would increase the effectiveness of SFP. Or you could step up to DACP with the cutting pad.

Swirl Free Polish and a polishing pad fix all the light spiderwebbing that gradually occur on my car. However, I have a few fairly heavy linear scratches in places on the car (many were there when I first got it) that aren't so deep you can feel them, but which look a lot deeper than spiderwebbing. SFP does nothing for them. They are deep enough that I'd prefer not to polish them away. I'm kind of a sissy when it comes to polishing on the Aurora.

stickking1 · September 2003

Yeah, I've heard that too....about switching pads to increase the "cutting power" of the product. I don't think I buy it though. If the combo I'm working with isn't cutting it, I move up to a different combo. Plus I don't have that many pads, maybe one pad per product that I ordinarilly use ('round 12-15), and I am really picky about using two different products on the same pad...call me crazy.

BTW...I have never worked on a car that had harder paint than my Aurora. It takes so much effort to get out even the smallest scratches. I don't know if you guys have had similar experiences.

-Brian

aurora5000 · September 2003

I am not for heavy buffing and polishing myself to get out scratches. Speaking of scratches..I noticed yesterday down near the fog light drivers side below and to the right heading back towards the driver is 3 BIG LONG scratches in the plastic bumper. It looks like someone ( not me ) backed out or pulled in on the side of a curb or a long horizontal cement parking pylon such as you see at the " Grocery store". It was not there a week ago when I hand washed and waxed. The questioning will start after I have had my evening meal...

As Columbo would say "Ah..excuse me..how much did you pay for that suit?"

rjs200240 · September 2003

I put up a bunch of picts on that Autopia link. So far, I like Zaino. But not really more than Blackfire. They are both really great. Blackfire's a lot easier to apply initially, though, and a lot cheaper. They both really look great, but a little different kind of great. Zaino has more reflectivity, and Blackfire has more metallic pop. I'll have to see how Zaino beads and such. Blackfire was awesome in its beading and lasting ability.

stickking1 · September 2003

Yeah, saw the thread on Autopia....nice pics. Just from looking at the picture, I would say the color is a whole lot darker. Is that the impression you got, or is it just different lighting from your previous pics w/ Blackfire? I was also going to say there wasn't as much metallic flake showing, but you beat me to it. All in all, she looks great! BTW, what are you using for dressing the tires?

-Brian

rjs200240 · September 2003

I think that the darkening is mainly due to the lighting conditions. It's possible the Z5 darkened it a tad, it looked just ever so slightly darker in the garage, but that might have just been my imagination.

My car does look pretty dark when it's not in the shade, but not nearly as dark as it looked in some of those pictures. I think maybe I was in the sun with the camera and the car was in the shade. It's funny how it looks basically like the Dark Cherry Metallic of the Collector's Edition in some of those picts. I guess it really is my paint but darker...

I think also that Blackfire has a lightening effect on the color when it's in the sun. That metallic glow is definitely a lighter color, but is pretty cool. So with a little less glow, the Z looks a bit darker in the sun. But it does have some good glow. It's actually more natural looking. It's a lot like the clean paint but with higher reflections and shine.

I need to see it more, though. The longer I used Blackfire, the more I liked the look of it. So maybe Zaino will grow on me more too.

I used Poorboy's Natural Look on the tires. It has a nice satin shine. It has a bit more shine on tires than #40 does, but it still is a satiny natural shine, not a glossy wet shine. I mainly use it on the interior, but tried it on tires and like the look. I like #40 a lot on the interior, but don't like the chemical smell it leaves. Natural Look has a pleasant smell sort of like almond extract.

javidogg · September 2003

man, your Aurora looks sweeeet!

What ever your doing is working, I have a 1999 Black Onyx and it's hard to keep that baby shining, Keep up the good work.

Peace.

Http://www.cardomain.com/id/javidogg

garnes · September 2003

It's a wet piece of candy. Great job.

rjs200240 · September 2003

Hey, I will at some point need to compress my rear caliper pistons. Because of the parking brake, they rotate in. Some special tool is required for this, but it's always a pain/rip-off to buy the GM recommended tool from my dealership. I will eventually need new pads, but would also like to lube the backs of the current pads (may not need to compress the piston to do this, but would like to have the tool just in case) because they squeak a bit.

What tool have you all used for this? And where'd you get it? Thanks!

I bought the plastic clip removal tool from my local GM dealer for the tray under the engine. After a big ordeal to get them to order the specific part number listed in the service manual, they gave me a freaking non-GM door trim tool. I was pretty annoyed by that. So I don't really think I'd try it again through the dealer.

Oh, thanks for all the compliments on the 'Roara. Here's another shot that looks pretty good (I'm not sure what happened to the rear tire. It got all gravel dusty somehow and needed a quick touchup):

stickking1 · September 2003

I have a tool that I picked up from Autozone...I can't remember what the name of it is now (I'm stuck at work), but that's what I use. I would think you could just walk in and tell them what you need and they'll know what you're talking about. I don't remember it being more than 5 or 10 bucks.

sinatra2 · September 2003

Michelin has just introduced a new tread design they say is going to replace the MX4. It just so happens that I am in the market to replace my Good Year Eagles.My 96 classic goes into the shop on Monday to have a set of these new "hydros" installed. $600.00 CA installed and force balanced. A buddy of mine owns the shop and is using me as a guinea pig. They do have a directional tread on them so rotation will be only front-back exchange on the same side.I will keep all informed as to the performance and handling characteristics if anyone is interested.

rjs200240 · September 2003

I got the tool for the rear. It's like a little cube. I expected some sort of wrench. Interesting.

Those Michelins are intriguing. Let us know how they do. They sound more rain-oriented. I wonder if they still have good dry grip and a quiet ride? I'd really rather them change the MXV4's to be a tad more grippy if they were gonna tweak one area.

sinatra2 · September 2003

rjs.........they are supposed to have a better grip than the MX4 both dry and wet and they say the tread life is about 140,000, km. I do a lot of highway driving and am told they are pretty quiet. Anyway If I am not satisfied they will exchange for me. My test is actually being monitored by the Michelin rep as not many sedans use a 235 60 16. Most are 225's I'll keep you informed

stickking1 · September 2003

Greg, saw the pics in the gallery. What are you using on your car, it looks great!

-Brian

garnes · September 2003

Thanks. Hand wash only - I never go to a car wash - never. When I wash it I'm very careful to never let the soft wash rag touch the ground, or smear dirt and debris from a dirty spot around the car. Wash from the top down of course and frequently dunk that rag in the soapy water to keep it clean and slick. I think stuff like the meguires wash soap does help at not stripping wax.

I know this stuff is too basic, but the biggest part is just washing it correctly and not scratching the car up in the first place. So I feel compelled to preach.

Anyway, I occasionally buff it (just a quick buffing a few times each year) with an orbital buffer (foam pad is the softest) and Meguires No. 7 glaze. When I wax it, I use the blue Zymol stuff. I really don't do anything fancy - just that. For a black car, I found the Zymol to hide micro scratches the best and it lasts pretty good/ok. It's a little greasy and sometimes the car looks the best after the first wash after waxing. Perhaps something like Zaino would be even better, but I've been really happy with this simple approach.

If the car has more aggressive scratches, I've used the cotton bonnet on the orbital buffer and No. 7 and applied some more pressure and you can smooth scratches out of the clear coat. Actually with an orbital buffer and No. 7 you can't hurt the paint. It's pretty fool proof. A high speed buffer and/or a more aggressive compound and you can hurt the finish.

My car was seriously damaged once with chemical fall-out (I parked it somewhere I should not have) and I had these spots burned into the paint. I had to have the car wet-sanded to bring it back. When I got the car back, it looked OK, but the buffing wasn't that great and there were some rough looking spots here and there. So I went at it with the orbital buffer and the No. 7 and got it back to a glass finish.

I think you can use Meguires Deep Crystal polish the same as No. 7 glaze. It's easier to wipe off.

stickking1 · September 2003

Yeah, I should've guessed the #7...I love that stuff. I've never used Zymol myself, but I hear great things and your car makes a great recommendation for it. I have used the Deep Crystal Polish before...it was okay, but I'm really into the Meguiar's #81 Hand Polish now...my #7 is being neglected.

You're right about the careful washing...I think it was RJS that said something about a 2-hour wash? Was that you Bob? I don't think I've ever hit the 2 hour mark, but I've come pretty close...I can't stand being rushed at the washing stage. I believe that washing (and drying) can be the best thing for your car, but also the worst thing for it if you're not careful.

Your car looks great...one day we'll have an Aurora gethering so we can admire eachother's cars up close!

-Brian

garnes · September 2003

If you take time to get into the wheels and clean them good on the inside and then do some detailing after the wash, I think you will hit the 2 hour mark. As long as it's not too dirty, I can have it looking good in way under an hour.

stickking1 · September 2003

Oh, trust me...When I set aside time to clean my car, I have to block off about 3 or 4 hours to get it done. My wash is an hour or two, and then there is all sorts of other things to do....dressing the trim, tires...cleaning windows, interiors and all that. Its an all afternoon event each week.

rjs200240 · September 2003

Yeah, it takes me about 1 1/2 hours, maybe 2 when I scrub the tires.

I start out cleaning the wheels and spraying out the wheelwells. I use Meguiar's Hi-Tech Wheel Cleaner (#34?) and a chenile sponge that is only for wheels.

Then I hose the whole vehicle down and mix up the carwash. I wash the car from top to bottom, rerinsing the panels quickly before I wash them. I rinse the soap off a panel at a time. Then I do a final rinse with the nozzle gently pouring to sheet off as much water as possible.

Then I dry the car with a microfiber, and then dry the wheels with some cotton towels.

I usually QD the car then just to ensure there aren't any water spots left, and also to bring back some pop and slickness. This seems like a quick thing, but for some reason it usually takes me about 20 minutes...

I dress the tires later or the next day after they have dried. I don't like using towels on tires because, even after being cleaned, they are disgusting. It basically ruins the towel. So I just let them air dry, then hit them with some dressing on a tire applicator.

I don't really clean the interior that often. It really rarely needs more than just a vacuuming. I condition the leather fairly often because I love the smell, and clean it every few months or when it seems a bit dirty. I probably use a V/R protectant on the interior every few months or less. I wipe everything down with a damp MF when it's a bit dusty. I hate cleaning interior glass, and only do it when I notice any haze on it (which happens somewhat often from the leather conditioner).

garnes · September 2003

Oh man - a nice wash every week. I wish. You get a house and then you have two masters. Some kids come along and it's gonna be "yeah, I have a car and it runs - cool. Now where did I put the keys, oh yeah, I gotta get the gutter fixed, and crap, that pipe is leaking again, and junior's got a ball game and the other one is sick and - oh yeah my car is still running - I hope.

RJS - I wish you lived next door. If you did, how much would you charge for that wash of yours? You make me seem like Oscar Madison. Wow. Could I get a deal for 1/2 off if I threw in some homemade chocolate chip cookies? Of course we would get busted for racing the Auroras. "Well you see officer, look at these torque and HP curves - wouldn't you want to see which one is faster? Come on give us a break".

- It's been a long day..............

leftyga1 · September 2003

On a 1997: Anything to be aware of or pay special attention to at this milestone? How big of hit to the wallet? Appreciate any heads-up...

rjs200240 · September 2003

Greg: "Well you see officer, look at these torque and HP curves - wouldn't you want to see which one is faster?"

AH HAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!! Oh man, I almost spit my lunch onto my monitor!! That's HILARIOUS!!!

Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Oldsmobile Aurora: Care &amp; Maintenance

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles

Oldsmobile Aurora: Care & Maintenance