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SOME ONE TOLD ME ITS THE COMPUTER!!! WHAT U THINK ABOUT THIS GUYS??? :confuse:
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
in summer time, once it gets hot, the idling speed drops to 3-4oorpm & sometimes it dies. So, I have to adjust the idle screw back to 800rpm... with this same adjustment , it will not work in winter time. (so, I have to adjust it in summer & winter)
Do you think I have to change the thermostat as it does not open or something else...
please give me some idea, thanks.
Is the rust something that can be easily repaired without spending too much?
Thanks for any ideas...
Matt
if anyone knows how to please email me promptly.
jrhay2000@hotmail.com
try driving it for a short distance with the air cleaner unhooked so its getting straight air.Dont do it in a dusty condition or for very long or you might get crud inside the engine.But for a short test to see if it will make an improvement before doing anything more it should be fine.
Disconnect the air filter from the throttle body and try driving it to see if more air helps. it it does then consider spending the $30 to get a high flow air filter set up.
thats all I can think of for cheap horses.
I stuck a high energy cam in my 89 with a 22re and man did that help alot.I was so happy with the way it felt, but within less than 1 year my timing chain started rattling like they do on these engines, instead of instally metal timing chain guides I just got rid of the truck.
The timing chain guides last alot longer if you just let the engine get up to speeds nice and easy, dont try and force the engine to get you to a speed.Who cares how fast you can go when your paying less for the fuel to move you down the road, thats all that really matters when it comes down to it.That the vehicle moves you down the road and gets you to your destination.The 22re in a 4runner is one of the top 3 for gas consuption, but you cant expect it to get good mileage and last forever if you force the engine to work past what it feels comfortable doing.If your making it go quick when it really just wants to slowly crawl to a speed, your just ruining it. You can tell if your overdoing it by feeling the engine working and only giving it just enough gas pedal to make it gradually get up to a speed.
The V6 version is worse on gas than a fullsize chevy blazer 4x4 is...chevy blazer 15MPG with a 350 auto
toyota 4runner 14MPG with 3.0 V6 auto trans... if you get a 4runner with a 3.0 auto...you might aswell go get yourself a chevy blazer fullsize.
I'm gonna go buy some wider shoes and see if I can walk on walls.....
My fuel mileage is slowing increasing, and I have been running lucas fuel injector cleaner at every fillup. It is just shy of 20MPG as of yesterday.
My issues are:
General lack of power- a friend let me drive his 89 3.0, and it blew mine away in the power department.
Rough idle: idles rough enough to shake the shifter, almost as if a cylinder is partially missing. This happens most of the time, but on occassion, it's smooth.
Uneven accelleration: if you accellerate at a contant rate, the engine seems "more efficient" at a certain RPM range ( 2500-3000 ). If you give it the gas, it makes more noise, but doesn't seem to take off that much faster. (feels like clogged cat ). I didn't have the ability to drive it pre-gasket issue, so I was wondering if anyone had som advice before I start throwing wads at it replacing sensors, etc. I have tried to check the MAS, TPS and air bypass according to my Haynes manual, nothing seems right. In fact, the pin on the MAS that the manual tells me to check is missing on my harness connector, so I wonder why it even matters. When I check the resistance, it jumps all over as I actuate the flapper. The air bypass never seems to shut off, and my TPS doesn't seem to short the IDL and full throttle contacts. :confuse:
I own a 1990 Toy 4Runner SR5 V6. I had ZERO problems with her since I bought her 2+ years ago, 190,000 miles, eligible for the steering rod recall and that has been done. The beginning numbers on the VIN are JT3 and it has a manufactured date of 10/89.
My question is this, I know about the Techinal Service Bulletin on the head gaskets, but in my llllllooooonnnngggg arduous search; I ran across another forum in which this person discovered a addition to the TSB where Toyota would repair the HG and or replace the engine in some cases. It was called the "Special Service Campaign Program"
This is the quote from the post "
Under the Special Service Campaign Program, the head gaskets will be replaced on all the affected vehicles regardless of leakage or not, and there will not be any age, mileage or time restrictions under the Special Service Campaign."
Here is the catch, your vehicle VIN MUST be listed in the program.
I have tried .....and failed to find this list;I was kind of hoping that it would SOMEWHERE on the internet.
I have been quoted prices from $500.00 for labor if I buy the parts, to $3200.00 from Toyota.
The mechanic in town said it was either a blown gasket or head, with the amount (ALOT) of white smoke/steam, Toyota said the same.
I found 2 places where I can buy the heads one place $250.00 ea. and the other $325.00 ea..
I will get her repaired, but I was wondering :
How do I find this VIN list???
THANK YOU TO ALL WHO REPLY.
I am unfortunately in a similar situation and being quoted similar prices on headgasket repair. I was all set to have the job done by someone, but have put it on hold for a few days to figure out if I should bail from the truck altogether. Mine is a 95 with 110K and a blown headgasket, but the truck isn't overheating and my mechanic doesn't think the heads are warped. I'm trying to find out whether I can be reasonably sure I can get a year or two out of the truck (at least ~40,000 miles) if I get the repair done. Also, will sending the heads to a machine shop make it less likely to blow in the future? I've read about the Special Campaign Service Program, and I'm working on figuring out whether it would include my truck or not.
Any suggestions or opinions would be greatly appreciated!! Thank you:)
:sick:
I just purchased a 1990 Toyota SR5 4-Runner and I am adding it to my insurance policy. My agent confirms this vehicle has a 4 wheel drive by the VIN number I gave her but it is a 2 wheel drive. (she checked different databases.) I double checked the Vin on the door and the Title and they match.
How is this possible and can this be a mistake? I don't want to pay the extra insurance and the reason I selected a 2-wheel drive model. Has anyone else experienced this and is there a way to get this corrected? Or am I just out of luck? Thanks for any responses in advance.
~Chris
any info would be appreciated- thanks.
-Todd
So, I left the key in the on position over night and found the battery dead the next morning. Jump and 10Amp battery starter failed to start the vehicle. HOWEVER, while attempting to jump there was a clicking noise under the driver's side dash which cycled every 60 sec, clicking 120 times. Exterior lights flash with the click as well-not headlight or turn signal, the smaller ones on the outside of the headlight.
The battery would not hold a charge (5yrs old) so I replaced it with brand new battery. The clicking noise and flashing lights persist and there is no response when I turn the key i.e., the starter is not engaging at all.
*There is an alarm in this vehicle.
*Radio stopped working 10 days ago.
Just bought this vehicle, no manual, 30 miles from town.
Am I hearing the ignition switch click?
I'm new to Toyotas and any suggestions would be helpful.
Thanks!
If it does, try ramming a pipe or something through it and clear out all of that stuff or just remove it all together. You should replace it as it is important for emissions but you don't need it to operate the vehicle.
As for the sag, let me know when you figure that one out cause my '95 has a classic droop in the back
Hope that helps...
2 you can send in your email and i will forward some manual to you
3 if your battery is not holding any charge check your alternator if its in good condition
Any idea
Thanks