Much appreciate you all taking the time to chime in on this. You've confirmed my concerns and the dealer will be instructed to do only what the manufacturer recommends.
First off, gentlemen and ladies, would you please limit discussions about your service experiences to some other topic than the Audio and Entertainment one? It WOULD be practical and give you more exposure, one would think, right?
Okay, on to the relevant topic. I had my 2008 Azera Ultimate with Premium Nav/Infinity Speaker stereo in to Alexandria (VA) Hyundai yesterday for an oil change, transmission flush and other 15,000 mile service stuff and was provided with a complete reflash update of the Radio and Nav System Software free-of-charge which had been issued under a Hyundai factory TSB. It did NOT give me a free mapnsoft update (which would have been nice and I will only get around to when I start seeing too many non-existent roads it doesn't know). However, I guess there have been enough problems reported to warrant a new software update. I presume it's non-critical and only comes up as an issue on a regular service call since I never got an actual recall notice.
IMHO, it's probably got something to do with the two or three times my radio/nav unit has totally locked up for no apparent reason but been fine again after turning the car off. Not a giant complaint for me in 16 months now of owning the car, but still nice to have addressed. I think the sound quality is better now too...but that might just be wishful thinking. Not that a 13 speaker Infiniti unit needs a heck of a lot of improvement anyway!
Uh... you do see that this particular forum is about the audio and entertainment for the Hyundai Azera, right????? Why are you complaining about limiting discussions in this forum to other areas when this is what this one is about????
There is a service forum. Maybe YOU should post your service issues there.
I have always felt the OEM tweeters are on the weak side and even after replacing all of the speakers I still did not get a satisfactory result. Quite naturally I hooked up my new tweeters to the wires where the OEM used to be. This weekend I finally found some time to fiddle around the tweeters only to realize that there is HUGE improvement when the same tweeters are wired in paralel to the mid-bass 6.5" speaker. Suddenly they came to life and the imaging and clarity of the front scene has dramatically become better. I can only guess that the reason for that could have been that the OEM wiring of the tweeter is in series which boosts the 2ohm 6.5" speakers ahead of the tweeters. Please share your observations if you have had any experience in that particular issue!
Megarock...how did you have the tweeters wired up to begin with?
Oh...and running the tweeters off the mid-drivers doesn't boost them ahead, it just take the power and splits it between the mids & tweets. Initially, you had a 2 ohm driver hooked up and then 4 ohm tweeters seperately...the tweeters didn't perform as well because less power was going to them. By wiring the the tweets with the mids you've taken a total of 6 ohms and split it in half so the amp sees a 3 ohm load which equates to more power going to them.
Now you're starting to understand what I've been saying all along with my set up.
Did you ever change out your center channel speaker?
Not sure which category is best for this post, but I see there is some action in here today, so I will post here.
Does anyone have trouble with the climate control buttons in the winter? When it gets below freezing here (Ohio) and I hit the down button on the temperature area, the button will sometimes stick - which means it turns the thermostat to 60, which is not desirable during sub-freezing conditions. This has happened to me two winters in a row.
I was just wondering if anyone has had similar experiences. I think I am going to complain to the dealer and see if I can have them snap in a new climate control panel.
I don't have this issue in my Azera, but my wife's Audi A6 does the very same thing. It's a headache sometimes, especially when you're trying to make temp changes while driving.
In regards to the Azera climate control unit, if your car is under warranty...I would think that the warranty should cover that. If not...you may want to pull it out (rather simple task quite honestly), take it apart and possibly clean it out. Be careful as it is a digital unit. I think a brand new one would cost you somewhere around $400 (if I remember correctly).
It's not quite as easy as snapping in a new one, but it's not difficult to replace either. I have posted a guide that explains how to remove the radio in an Azera. Which, if you follow those steps (sans removing the radio), you would have access to the climate control unit.
Thanks Allmet33, I perfectly understand what you're saying! However I have no explanation for the difference the tweets sensitivity changed as compared to the mids. Previously the mid-bass speakers were prevailing over the tweets and now they are more equalized. Give it a try next time whenever you have a chance, I'll be interested what you've heard then!
Megarock...trust me, I have no need to play around with my system just to see what would happen if I wire my tweeters differently. I can tell you, that your whole problem to begin with was NOT wiring them off the mid-drivers to begin with. By hooking the tweeters up the way you did, it's the same as wiring them in parallel which doubles the impedance load seen by the amp, in turn...cutting the power output of the amp, which equates to lower performance.
I still feel it odd that you would swap out all of your speakers except for your center channel simply because of the "narrow" range it operates in. You can rest assured that an aftermarket driver in that location will perform better than the OEM. You've also got a situation where that OEM driver will distort before any of your other speakers in your set up as well. Just something to think about.
In my case, the only factory component I left in place were the factory tweeters because they function very well with the coaxials I installed in the lower door location. Plus, with the swapped out center channel speaker...I now have 5 tweeters in my front sound stage and it is just so crystal clear.
At any rate, glad to hear you have finally got things in such a way that you can really enjoy your sounds now.
Thanks Allmet33 for the lengthy reply! Well the change is here and it is big, believe it or not, after I wired the tweets off the OEM cable. Logically speaking you are absolutely correct - the only thing supposed to change is the impedance but in reality it is a different story. I even begin to suspect there might be some resistor/ or hi pass filter/ of some kind in the standard wiring for the sake of the OEM tweets, god knows only. Fact of the matter is that even the wife noticed the improved clarity and overall performance and that means a lot. I leave the explanation to you as it does not really matters any more.
I swapped the center channel long time ago, but haven't used it due to the poor volume adjusmtent possibility. Will have to find time soon and make it to my liking.
If you feed the center channel speaker through the oem amp how do you make use of the tweet since there is a LPF above 6-7kHz? I am thinking of hooking to it the right channel directly from the CD player internal amp and pass it through HPF 80Hz. Of course that means no monoral signal but still the sacrifuce could be well worth it for the complete mid and high spectrum. What do you think? Do you still keep the oem sub (with HPF as well), does it rattle?
Megarock...between the front mid-woofer and the tweeter, there should be a high-pass filter installed to only allow the higher frequencies thru to the tweeter.
The tweeter on my center channel speaker works fine. The OEM amp has a high-pass filter on it for that channel set at 200 Hz (info directly from the Infinity OEM division techs), so there is a signal usable by the tweets. The OEM speaker up there was just single cone driver with a broad frequency range. I like the two-way speaker I have up there now because it allows the sound to be separated for more clarity. What speaker did you put in the center location, is it a 2 ohm speaker?
The other channels on the OEM amp are as such:
Front & rear doors...60 Hz (high-pass) Subwoofer...(80 Hz low-pass)
I don't like the door speakers playing down that low, they really aren't designed for it. So with my head unit, I'm able to cross the door speakers off at 80 Hz high-pass and my subs are crossed at 80 Hz low-pass for a sweet transition from front to back.
Hello all, I would like to get some ideas as to what may be going on with my car stereo...
A while back, the battery went dead and the guy who tried to help jump it, crossed the cables and caused many of the electronic systems to go out. I had it fixed at the local Hyundai dealer, but, they forgot to check the stereo...the stereo is obviously "on" (display works) and the CD changer as well. However, there is no sound. Is it possible the speakers were fried or could it be a contact or wiring? I know I'll have to take it to an audio place to have it fixed--but, since "knowledge is power"--hoping it keeps me from being overcharged or talked into replacing what may not have to be replaced if I have an idea of some of the things that might have gone wrong. I'd really appreciate anyone's input!
In order to give some feedback, I need to know which sound system you actually have. One has an outboard amplifier, which, if that's the system you have...it's highly likely the amp was fried or if not the amp...the fuse to the amp. Not sure why you have to take it to an audio place to have it fixed, if it's the factory stereo...Hyundai should be able to fix it.
Thanks allmet33! The sound system is the Infinity for the Azera Limited 2006 (factory stereo). It has an MP3 CD changer/cassette tape player and radio--hope this is what you needed to know. I didn't take it back to the Hyundai dealer because I wasn't real happy with their work--I called the Honda dealer where I bought the car used and they told me they use an audio place who does their service work. If you need any more info, I can get the manual for the car--thanks again!!
Ok...I can assure that you do have an outboard amplifier, so you would want to have that looked at. If the amp is working, then it's a possibility that the output from the stereo to the amp was fried, but I would almost put my money on the the amp or the fuse to the amp.
Nah...I won't laugh at all. Outboard vs. built in...the amplifier takes a signal that the speakers can't do anything with and boost it to a level to make it audible. A lot of lower end car stereos have a built in amp so you can connect the speakers directly to the stereo. Then, there are the upgraded stereos like the one in your Azera that does not have a built in amp. so the signal is sent from the stereo to the amp, then the speakers are connected to the amp. VIOLA!!! :shades:
Sounds good--do you know where the outboard amp is located in my car, i.e., behind the radio? Just wondering how much effort it will take these guys to get to it--as in manhours since they charge by the hour...
The amp is located in the trunk of the car behind the rear seat on the passenger side. In the trunk there's a liner and the amp would be behind that. To get to the amp, it should take much less than an hour if they really know what they are doing.
One thing you can do yourself before taking to them is check all the fuses (located in the side of the dash in the driver's side). You'll have to open the driver's side door and you'll see a panel with a pull on the side of the dash. Give it a firm tug and it will come out revealing all your fuses. On the inside of the panel cover is a list of the fuses and what they are for...go through them and see if any are burnt out. If so, simply replace with a fuse of the same spec. It could very well be as easy as that.
You are awesome! Can't tell you how much I appreciate all this information!! I will check those things out as you explained--praying that is all it is! And, I pray you will be helped as much as you've helped me when you need something!
You're more than welcome, just glad to be of assistance. There have been others in various Azera forums that have broadened my knowledge, so it's definitely a give and take here. Good luck with your stereo system, I do wish the best and hope it is something very simple. Please post and update if you can.
I have a 2007 Azera with a M465S satellite/CD system. The radio works, but the CD player has failed. All I get is a "Checking CD" in the display. I've been told the cost to replace is about $900. Other options?
DEFINITELY go aftermarket. There are so many options available that will give you more features, more sound control and better overall performance than the OEM unit. Plenty of units you can select from will have Bluetooth built in, some will have HD tuners, some will be Satellite ready, most will also have direct iPod/MP3 player connectivity. If you want to look at some great stuff and save some $$$, check out Sonic Electronix. Like Crutchfield, they also send you everything you'll need to install a unit in your particular vehicle.
I am getting the same problem. Did you disconnect the battery or the yellow wire in the fuse box for 5 minutes? Some say this will reset the system.I changed my battery a month ago. I don't know if this is related. Warranty gone on radio
Did not work. Car now in the dealership as it failed to start again with a brand new battery. This malfunctiong cd player may have a short. Should know more later today.I hope I don't need a new radio.
Has anyone replaced the xm stock radio with something else? If so what and how much did it cost? where did you have it installed? They told me I have a short but are still trying to find it.Ihope it is not in the radio as I do not have $1300.00 for anew radio. Ebay has some but none with xm
I replaced my unit with an eclipse Avn 52d navigation/DVD/CD/mp3 player. You can buy a Sirius or cm adapter for it. Also has Bluetooth capabilities and requires an adapter to use the steeringwheel controls. Excellent unit. Install is not all that difficult but requires removing a lot of the dash. I think Thea unit was 550 off ebay brand new. Have had it installed for 2 years and it has worked great. Improved sound quality a bit as well. I believe it provides more power to the speakers than the stock unit.
I was driving listening to the radio and all of a sudden, "silence". I switched to the cd player and I can hear the music so I know it's not a connection with the speakers. When I turn the volume up real loud on FM, I don't hear anything. When I turn the volume on AM, I hear a high pitched squeal. Nothing else in the car is having problems. I suspected a loose wire at first, but am now maybe thinking of a possible blown fuse. I truly have no idea. If it's a fuse, where is the inner fuse box. I thought it was on the left side of the steering column on the side...if that's it, how do i open it? I tried pulling on it but it doesn't want to open easily. Is there a trick to it?
With the driver's door open, there's a triangular panel at the end of the dash, with a warning sticker about the driver's seat side airbag and a three-finger handhold molded in. Put three fingers in and pull straight out...
Friend told me he beleves it's the tuner in the radio. Suggested I just get a new radio. We'll see. Dealer wants 103 dollars just to do a diagnostics...whatever. I'll take my chances with a new radio.
I figured that was the case, but it's so tight and was afraid I'd brake some latches or something. I was thinking that there had to be an easier way of opening the darn thing, lol.
Take a look on Sonicelectronix.com & Crutchfield.com (P.S. don't let either site tell you that a double din unit won't fit...they do)...plenty of options to fit any budget. If you have any questions on what will work, let me know. I've swapped out the OEM radio and installed an aftermarket unit. I also swapped out all the speakers and added my own subwoofers as well.
Your instinct is right, instead of paying for diagnostic, then whatever the dealer would charge you for a new unit...you would be able to pay for an aftermarket unit and some speakers as well.
allmet Did you get the seals replaced???? Which ones were leaking?? Hyundai considers them "wear and tear" items just like wiperblades or brake pads..I think that's ridiculus...
Anyone out there have an eclipse AVN 52d and need accessories? I have the unit. It came with the IPOD adapter and hands free blue tooth package. I also purchased the steering wheel control adapter but I'll be damned if I can figure out how to hook it up. Any way, I'm willing to sell the IPOD adapter, bluetooth, and steering wheel wiring if anyone is interested. If I don't hear anything, I will list them on eBay this week.
Also, allmet, have you seen the NAV units that are being advertised on the w2audio for the Azera? Seems like it would be risky to buy one and I don't know if the site is reputable, but the price looks good and the features are attractive. w2 audio site
I have a 2007 Hyundai Azera Limited with Infinity XM CD system. Would you be so kind as to summarize what I should do to improve the audio quality. I find it mediocre. From reading the posts, it seems like I should just replace the speakers in the doors and leave the rest alone. Is this correct? If so, which speakers do you advise?
elliott1...the Infinity system employs 2 ohm speakers and there aren't that many out on the market. I personally swapped mine out for the Infinity Kappa series speakers. I have recommended them to others and they have done the swap as well. Everyone I know that has...enjoys the results. A few have just changed the speakers and noticed an upgrade in sound. Others have changed the speakers & the stereo, like myself.
If you're happy with the stereo, just change the speakers. I went with coaxials in the door locations and left the factory tweeter in place. I also changed out the center channel speaker with a JBL 4x6" speaker. I also removed the factory sub and installed 2 10" subs in the trunk, running off an aftermarket amp. So the only original sound system pieces that exist in my car are the tweeters and the Infinity amp (didn't want to lose the center channel).
Let me know if this is useful or if you need any more info.
No, this is not something you can add to the factory unit. You would need to have a compatible eclipse in-dash unit for this to work for you. Sorry.
For what it's worth, I enjoy my eclipse AVN 52D very much and I think it has a stronger built-amp than the factory 6 disc changer. Therefore, it pushes more power to the infinity speakers and I think it makes them sound better. When I bought the package it was about $550. I am sure just replacing some speakers would be cheaper than that, especially if you are happy with the factory 6 disc changer.
Thank you. I would probably like to chagne the Stereo also. Which one did you get? My CD is now broken (but still under 60 month warranty) and I would rather replace the front end also. I want bluetooth and an auxiliary input jack, although bluetooth alone would be enough. The problem with all aftermarket units I have seen is that the pre-set radio buttons are too small. My wife likes the large buttons that come on all installed radio systems (and I agree with her.) I am open to a GPS but its not that important. It would depend on cost. Hyundai service just told me that any gps xm radio CD unit they sell starts at $. So to summarize, my first need is to upgrade the sound of the system we have. Second option would be to change the front end also to have bluetooth / auxilliary. Third would be to have GPS as well (but GPS is not so important as I prefer the iPad for that functionality.) Whatever advice you can give is really appreciated.
Originally, I replaced the factory unit with a Pioneer FH-P4200MP, had that for a few years and then I wanted to upgrade to DVD & Bluetooth, so I replaced that unit recently with the AVH-3200BT.
The buttons for the station presets were small-ish on the first unit, but my new one having a touch-screen...they are bigger. Just shop around, there are head units of all types out there with various features. I'm sure you can find one that you'll like.
GPS isn't an issue for me, I use the navigation feature on my cell phone.
Comments
Okay, on to the relevant topic. I had my 2008 Azera Ultimate with Premium Nav/Infinity Speaker stereo in to Alexandria (VA) Hyundai yesterday for an oil change, transmission flush and other 15,000 mile service stuff and was provided with a complete reflash update of the Radio and Nav System Software free-of-charge which had been issued under a Hyundai factory TSB. It did NOT give me a free mapnsoft update (which would have been nice and I will only get around to when I start seeing too many non-existent roads it doesn't know). However, I guess there have been enough problems reported to warrant a new software update. I presume it's non-critical and only comes up as an issue on a regular service call since I never got an actual recall notice.
IMHO, it's probably got something to do with the two or three times my radio/nav unit has totally locked up for no apparent reason but been fine again after turning the car off. Not a giant complaint for me in 16 months now of owning the car, but still nice to have addressed. I think the sound quality is better now too...but that might just be wishful thinking. Not that a 13 speaker Infiniti unit needs a heck of a lot of improvement anyway!
Thought you'd like to know.
Cheers and :shades:
There is a service forum. Maybe YOU should post your service issues there.
Oh...and running the tweeters off the mid-drivers doesn't boost them ahead, it just take the power and splits it between the mids & tweets. Initially, you had a 2 ohm driver hooked up and then 4 ohm tweeters seperately...the tweeters didn't perform as well because less power was going to them. By wiring the the tweets with the mids you've taken a total of 6 ohms and split it in half so the amp sees a 3 ohm load which equates to more power going to them.
Now you're starting to understand what I've been saying all along with my set up.
Did you ever change out your center channel speaker?
Does anyone have trouble with the climate control buttons in the winter? When it gets below freezing here (Ohio) and I hit the down button on the temperature area, the button will sometimes stick - which means it turns the thermostat to 60, which is not desirable during sub-freezing conditions. This has happened to me two winters in a row.
I was just wondering if anyone has had similar experiences. I think I am going to complain to the dealer and see if I can have them snap in a new climate control panel.
In regards to the Azera climate control unit, if your car is under warranty...I would think that the warranty should cover that. If not...you may want to pull it out (rather simple task quite honestly), take it apart and possibly clean it out. Be careful as it is a digital unit. I think a brand new one would cost you somewhere around $400 (if I remember correctly).
It's not quite as easy as snapping in a new one, but it's not difficult to replace either. I have posted a guide that explains how to remove the radio in an Azera. Which, if you follow those steps (sans removing the radio), you would have access to the climate control unit.
Azera Factory Radio Removal Guide
Good luck!
I still feel it odd that you would swap out all of your speakers except for your center channel simply because of the "narrow" range it operates in. You can rest assured that an aftermarket driver in that location will perform better than the OEM. You've also got a situation where that OEM driver will distort before any of your other speakers in your set up as well. Just something to think about.
In my case, the only factory component I left in place were the factory tweeters because they function very well with the coaxials I installed in the lower door location. Plus, with the swapped out center channel speaker...I now have 5 tweeters in my front sound stage and it is just so crystal clear.
At any rate, glad to hear you have finally got things in such a way that you can really enjoy your sounds now.
I swapped the center channel long time ago, but haven't used it due to the poor volume adjusmtent possibility. Will have to find time soon and make it to my liking.
If you feed the center channel speaker through the oem amp how do you make use of the tweet since there is a LPF above 6-7kHz? I am thinking of hooking to it the right channel directly from the CD player internal amp and pass it through HPF 80Hz. Of course that means no monoral signal but still the sacrifuce could be well worth it for the complete mid and high spectrum. What do you think? Do you still keep the oem sub (with HPF as well), does it rattle?
The tweeter on my center channel speaker works fine. The OEM amp has a high-pass filter on it for that channel set at 200 Hz (info directly from the Infinity OEM division techs), so there is a signal usable by the tweets. The OEM speaker up there was just single cone driver with a broad frequency range. I like the two-way speaker I have up there now because it allows the sound to be separated for more clarity. What speaker did you put in the center location, is it a 2 ohm speaker?
The other channels on the OEM amp are as such:
Front & rear doors...60 Hz (high-pass)
Subwoofer...(80 Hz low-pass)
I don't like the door speakers playing down that low, they really aren't designed for it. So with my head unit, I'm able to cross the door speakers off at 80 Hz high-pass and my subs are crossed at 80 Hz low-pass for a sweet transition from front to back.
A while back, the battery went dead and the guy who tried to help jump it, crossed the cables and caused many of the electronic systems to go out. I had it fixed at the local Hyundai dealer, but, they forgot to check the stereo...the stereo is obviously "on" (display works) and the CD changer as well. However, there is no sound. Is it possible the speakers were fried or could it be a contact or wiring? I know I'll have to take it to an audio place to have it fixed--but, since "knowledge is power"--hoping it keeps me from being overcharged or talked into replacing what may not have to be replaced if I have an idea of some of the things that might have gone wrong. I'd really appreciate anyone's input!
One thing you can do yourself before taking to them is check all the fuses (located in the side of the dash in the driver's side). You'll have to open the driver's side door and you'll see a panel with a pull on the side of the dash. Give it a firm tug and it will come out revealing all your fuses. On the inside of the panel cover is a list of the fuses and what they are for...go through them and see if any are burnt out. If so, simply replace with a fuse of the same spec. It could very well be as easy as that.
Good luck!!!
I suspected a loose wire at first, but am now maybe thinking of a possible blown fuse. I truly have no idea. If it's a fuse, where is the inner fuse box. I thought it was on the left side of the steering column on the side...if that's it, how do i open it? I tried pulling on it but it doesn't want to open easily. Is there a trick to it?
Your instinct is right, instead of paying for diagnostic, then whatever the dealer would charge you for a new unit...you would be able to pay for an aftermarket unit and some speakers as well.
Did you get the seals replaced???? Which ones were leaking?? Hyundai considers them "wear and tear" items just like wiperblades or brake pads..I think that's ridiculus...
Also, allmet, have you seen the NAV units that are being advertised on the w2audio for the Azera? Seems like it would be risky to buy one and I don't know if the site is reputable, but the price looks good and the features are attractive.
w2 audio site
If you're happy with the stereo, just change the speakers. I went with coaxials in the door locations and left the factory tweeter in place. I also changed out the center channel speaker with a JBL 4x6" speaker. I also removed the factory sub and installed 2 10" subs in the trunk, running off an aftermarket amp. So the only original sound system pieces that exist in my car are the tweeters and the Infinity amp (didn't want to lose the center channel).
Let me know if this is useful or if you need any more info.
Good luck!
For what it's worth, I enjoy my eclipse AVN 52D very much and I think it has a stronger built-amp than the factory 6 disc changer. Therefore, it pushes more power to the infinity speakers and I think it makes them sound better. When I bought the package it was about $550. I am sure just replacing some speakers would be cheaper than that, especially if you are happy with the factory 6 disc changer.
http://www.[non-permissible content removed].com/hyundai-azera-car-dvd-player-with-builtin-gps-navigati- on-digital-screen-pip-bluetooth-p-637.html
have you done the seal and gasket replacement on your azzy yet??..you mentioned that you were planning it earlier.
The buttons for the station presets were small-ish on the first unit, but my new one having a touch-screen...they are bigger. Just shop around, there are head units of all types out there with various features. I'm sure you can find one that you'll like.
GPS isn't an issue for me, I use the navigation feature on my cell phone.