Okay...here's the issue. The amplifier, unless it's a crappy unit will not create the distortion, but rather amplify it. Once that happens...it's passed on to the speakers.
One way to combat this issue is to send your signal through a processor which upon output, increases the voltage of the signal and the increased voltage lowers the noise floor so that distortion is lessened greatly!
If you have a well designed system, you would never listen to it at levels that would lead to clipping and or distortion. The set up I have in my Azera now, I rarely turn the volume up past 15 because it's so clean and clear, playing it above that is actually too loud. I can play it at 10-12 going down the highway, with the windows down and hear every note clearly. Can my system clip or distort...yes it can. However, the more wattage you pump into the system...the lower the volume you can play it to hear everything. However, if your speakers aren't rated to handle the full potential of the rated power, turning it up will yield distortion.
However, the statement was made that increased wattage doesn't equate to louder music and that is VERY false. Here's what you do. Get a 2-channel amp rated at 50 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms. Hook it up to the stereo and play it at a set volume. Make a note of how loud the music sounds. Then, remove the amp and replace it with a 2-channel amp rated at 100 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms and play the same music at the same volume setting. Trust me, the music will be louder.
The problem may be that if your speakers can't handle the 100 watts of power, they will clip or distort much faster than they would with the 50 watts of power.
As a matter of fact, do this...just switch out the radio unit in your car with an aftermarket unit that will have more continuous output power than your factory unit. I guarantee you...it's going to play louder and cause your speakers to distort if you turn it up to a certain point and it would happen much quicker than with the factory radio.
You try listening to a 3 watt system in a car, I guarantee you...you will not be happy when cars start passing by and even with the windows up, you can't hear a thing. LOL
Does anyone know what is the kind of signal feeding the infinity amp - low (line in/out) or high (for speakers) and how it could be utilized? Is there a trim on the amp to decrease the level of the center channel as it is dominating over the others?
There is no way to attenuate the signal on the factory amplifier. However, a poster in this forum contacted the OEM Division at Harman Becker (Infinity) and they actually sent him a whole new factory amp to replace the orginal one with the center channel cut by 3 or 6 dB's.
I have found that by swapping out the front door speakers with some Infinity Kappa coaxial speakers, the center channel became less prevelant and the sound stage evened out across the front of the car. The only reason I can think this happened is that the aftermarket Kappas are more efficient at utilizing the power from the factory amp, so the output is a little higher than the factory ones were.
Just another option to think about if you desire. There are a couple other posters that have replaced the front speakers and enjoyed the same results I have. If you do go this route, there is a guide available that shows how to access the door speakers for removal and replacement.
Hi allmet33, I have read almost everything in the forums so far about the audio upgrade in the Azzie but here we do not have all these speakers you are talking about as replacement ones. I have replaced recently the tweeters with after market ones and had improved the clarity but still the mids are quite dominant even with the Mid set to -7. The image is still emphasized in the center and thus somehow annoying. It is logical that the headunit provides analog signal to the amp and it is strange that this signal cannot be attenuated. Did you change already the Alpine 1242D and why? What is the new sub now?
Curiously, what was your choice in replacement tweeters in the front door panels?
I'm one of the people that allmet33 mentioned that also found the soundstage greatly improved with the infinity kappas installed in the front doors. That said, the center channel speaker is still somewhat dominant, and because of this I was thinking that better tweeters in the doors would also lessen that effect.
The amp Harmon Becker (Infinity) amp with a 3db or 6db decrease to the center channel is worh looking into as well. I believe that a measure of 3bd is equal to a halving (or doubling) of perceived volume by the human ear, so this amp may solve the issue for you.
Megarock...where are you located that you don't have access to the speakers, I mentioned, available to you? All you have to do is look online. I bought mine off of Ebay.
Honestly, there is nothing you can do with the settings on the factory radio to change the prominence of the center channel.
Tweeters are pretty much tweeters. However, changing the door speakers to more effecient ones definitely change the sound staging. Thus...going with the Kappas or JBL GTO series are your best bet as they match the impedence of the factory speakers at 2 ohms. Any other speakers you try to use operate at 4 ohms, so you would actually make the situation worse.
If you just can't seem to find those speakers that I mentioned, then look for any 2 ohm 6.5" mid-driver or coaxial speaker and look for a high sensitivity rating (90+).
If THAT isn't an option, then contact the folks at Infinity's OEM division and inquire as to getting the factory amp replaced with one that has the center channel attenuated down. If I recall correctly, the one poster that did it went with the -6 dB correction. (I recall him mentioning that Infinity sent him one amp with a -3 dB and a -6 dB on the center channel). Just tell them you're unhappy with the uneven sound and they should hook you right up.
It's not strange that the signal can't be attenuated, in most cases when you're dealing with a premium factory sound system, those types of controls are eliminated so that customers can't mess them up. That is why the aftermarket world gets so much business from folks like me. I like being able to control every aspect of my music. So changing the head unit out provided me a very good control center with which to start.
I did change the Alpine Type-R I had as I fried it. After the Alpine, I went to an Audiobahn DUB 1000, then I tried two Pioneer 800 watt rms subs...all got fried. Right now, I've got the Phoenix Gold Xenon sub running off my Kenwood KAC-7202 amp. It's a good match (sub is rated at 450 watts rms and the amp is kicking out 460 watts). However, I will be removing that set up as I ordered a second Xenon sub and I will run the pair off the Xenon amp and the signal will be cleaned up with the Phoenix Gold signal processor I got too.
- theblackhole The tweeters I have chosen are Hertz DC16, for I had very good experience with them before nevertheless they are the entry level (also they are part of a component system, but are sold seperately). I would assume that any tweeter from a premium brand will outperform the stocks with crisperer and clearer sound. Just like allmet33 I feel the urge to control every aspect of the audio system and constantly change settings, experiment with different models, positions, etc. Currently I live in Dubai and I am slowly getting to know the car audio stores and shops, but so far haven't spotted a 2Ohm 6.5 set of speakers. Ebay delivery will be expensive though... I am even more puzzled with the attenuation of the signal to the amp knowing that the headunit is not produced by Infinity so it should be a standard one (more or less). I am planning this weekend to dismount the amp and take a closer look - maybe there is a trim (inside) to level the channels!? Anything you know on this one allmet33 will be of great use (harness, scheme)! allmet33 are you still using the stock amp and how do you feed signal to it?
I can tell you, there is no way to manually attenuate the center channel on that amp. The poster I told you about that got the amp from Infinity said that there is an ether net connector and it's done via computer. Of course, that means you would need the proprietary software to make the changes. Do you really think Harman-Becker would let that out?
If you want to have more control over your sound system, then you'll really need to change out the head unit.
There are several vendors on Ebay that ship overseas now. You may also want to contact Infinity and ask them if they have a brand name they produce overseas. You might be surprised! I know it may be tough or slightly more expensive, but that's the price you pay for what you want to accomplish.
I am still using the factory amp, I have my head unit wired using the wire harness from Scosche, so it's utilizing the factory wiring. From my head unit, I am using the rear speaker RCA outputs to run the signal to my aftermarket amp for the sub. My head unit allows me to switch the rear output to be a subwoofer output, thus allowing me to cross it off at the 80 Hz (low pass) that I have it set on.
As far as the other settings, the front sound stage (door speakers, tweeters and center channel) is crossed off at 80 Hz (high pass) and the rear sound stage (rear door speakers and factory subwoofer) is crossed off at 100 Hz (high pass). Why 100 Hz you ask? I have found that the factory subwoofer really doesn't like frequencies lower than that when you really push it. However, crossing it off there allows you to play it harder without distortion.
This basically answers my question because as long as the input signal in the infinity amp is a standard one I can simply divert 2 channels (rear) to the aftermarket amp without the need to run extra cable from the head unit! Furthermore I think to find which wire (from the input signal in the amp)is the center channel (if there is any such at all)and place a potentiometer so I can adjust the input level. If this is not possible I will continue my search for a 2Ohm 6.5 speakers...
I'm not sure what you mean by standard inputs to the factory amp. It's not the RCA type if that's what you mean. There are two choices you have when it comes to splicing into the rear speaker channels.
#1) Use a hi-lo converter and locate the rear speaker wires behind the head unit and tap in there, then run an RCA cable from there to the trunk for your sub.
#2) Using an amp that has hi-level inputs and then you can just tap into the rear speaker wires at the amp in the trunk (if you can figure out which ones they are) and take them to the amp.
As far as your goal for the center channel, you would probably save yourself a lot of headache and effort if you just go with the 6.5" 2 ohm speaker replacement. Trust me...less effort involved here.
Also, one thing that really struck me about the complaints folks have about the center channel. It's a surround sound set up and in all surround sound set ups, the center channel speaker is the prevelant source of sound. If you go to a theater, most of the sound comes from directly in front of you, then you hear fill in sounds, ambient sounds and transitional sounds from the left to right speakers and the rear speakers depending on how the sound is.
Anyway...
As far as your choice of amps, the new Alpine amps are awesome. I think it would be a great match for the sub you've chosen as well. The sub, is definitely a good sub, I had the 10" version in a sealed .5 cu. ft. box and it hit VERY nicely. I think you'll be quite pleased with the sound.
Honestly, if you're looking for the best option to control all the sound and make things sound great...change the head unit and you can't go wrong at all!!!
Only problem with that is if someone is looking for sound control...it won't offer any more than the current head units offer. Either way, you're paying for a replacement head unit.
For the cleanest signal to the sub amp, switching to an aftermarket head unit and using RCA patch cables directly to the amp from that.
Besides, for what you would end up paying for and OEM Nav unit, you can get an even better aftermarket unit.
Don't even know why the airbags would be an issue. However...remove the faux wood trim at the top of the dash over the clock. You'll see 3 or 4 screws that need to come out. Then, remove the fuse panel cover (driver's side of dash)...there is a screw you need to remove in there. Under the steering wheel, there's a panel that must be loosened so you can pop the panel down and access a single screw below the ignition. There are also two screws located under the compartment under the climate controls (need a stubby philips screw driver to get to those).
Once you have removed all the screws, firmly grasp the panel at the top where the vents are and pull away from the dash. It may take a little effort, and be careful not to muscle it out because there are some wire harnesses you must disconnect to fully remove the panel. Once you have disconnected all the harnesses...you have complete access to the radio. There are 4 screws holding it in place.
Of course, putting everything back is just the reverse of all these steps.
If you're still worried about the airbags...disconnect the postive side of the battery and then go about the removal.
Has anyone investigated the AM/FM/TV/GPS in-dash units for possible installation in their Azeras? I am wondering if these Chinese made accessories really work and if they are durable and of acceptable quality. I imagine service and repair would probably be impossible to locate.
RE:1 I'm not sure what your concern is about equipment manufactured in China, as almost all major electronic companies use facilities in China for their production. They all have service facilities in the US to make repairs or swap units for warranty replacement.
Pat, how can I correct the title to remove the question mark and replace it with a forward slash? Floridabob, as far as I can check, I would have to send the unit back to the place where I might buy it in the event of problems.
RE:3 Every foreign made electronic product that I have ever purchased has had a US facility to make repairs. If you purchase it thru a Hyundai dealer or a reputable retailer, they will handle the warranty problems for you.
The new in-dash nav units are going to be made by LG...a pretty good company when it comes to stuff like that. Don't think it would be THAT hard to find a place to take care of it should the need arise since they sell LCD/plasma t.v.'s, cell phones and home entertainment equipment.
If you do not want to loose your present AM reception,
DO NOT TINT the REAR WINDOW.
I lost my good AM reception big time when that so and so window tinter told me that his film would not change anything, so I went ahead and had him tint my rear windshield.
He lied!
He wanted three hours and $35 to remove his tint. I removed it myself in half an hour.
Now I have my original good AM reception back again.
Don't believe those tint shops that'll tell you that their window tint film doesn't effect your AM reception.
I have tint on my rear window but it does not affect the am or fm reception. It is regular 35 tint. I thought only the metal tint would affect reception.
You will only lose your radio reception if you use a film that contains metal. The rear window of my Azera is tinted with a non-metallic film (the rest of the windows are tinted with metallic film) and my AM reception in excellent.
You just need to find a guy who knows what he is doing.
Only problem with using a non-metallic tint is that it will fade and turn blue on you over time. Personally, I don't listen to AM radio so it's no big loss for me at all. Another work around is to go ahead and get satellite radio, since the antenna would be mounted on the roof or trunk lid...the tint would not affect reception.
This was posted earlier in this forum about the tint messing with radio reception. We had a whole discussion about the possibilities of boosting the signal, but someone suggested that there is already a signal booster employed and adding an aftermarket one would be a waste of time and money.
For me, it's no great loss as I hardly listen to the radio. I don't like all the commmercials, don't like listening to repetitive music and I don't care for talk radio. So...my CD player gets used about 98% of the time.
I understand that some still like to listen to AM and that is why I offered some of the suggestions I have to this point.
XM can and does provide traffic reports for your area. It also provides all the talk, sports or whatever else you want to listen to as well...commercial free. Here's a link that shows you the channel for each of the cities that are covered:
I had suggested installing a signal booster once before, but someone else shot the idea down saying it would be a waste of time and effort, as there should already be one in use. Personally, I don't think it would hurt to try it out.
The other suggestion I offered was to get a shark fin style or XM style antenna and mount it on the rear part of the roof so it won't be blocked by any metallic tint and the reception should be fine as well. Only problem with this is you would want to get it done professionally because it would require drilling a hole in your roof and you want to make sure it would be sealed real good.
Even without the metallic tint on the rear window, AM reception wasn't exactly outstanding with the Azera anyway. So the tint took what was marginal and made it worse. Honestly, I think it's poor design to be honest, the rear window along with the rear window defrost elements...just doesn't seem to be a great combination. I've had cars where the antenna element was in the front windshield and reception was fine. Of course, it makes for a more costly replacement should the need ever come up for a new windshield.'
Personally, I'm with you...I believe a signal booster could be used. They can be purchased online for around $15. Installation is really simple. There's a power and ground wire that need to be hooked up accordingly and then you plug the antenna lead into the unit and then plug the lead from the unit into the radio...PRESTO!
That might be the best situation if it were possible. For those vehicles that have the antenna up front, it doesn't matter because the booster is pretty close to the antenna.
If you have an antenna in the back (like the Azera), then sure, you can take the car apart to look for where you might be able to hook the booster up, but then you'll also need to find a way to conceal the unit as well.
If all else either fails or doesn't seem to work, why not give it a shot? Best case scenario...you end up with better reception. Sure, I could go purchase a booster and try it, but I have no need for it as I'm not one complaining about crappy AM reception. The FM signals I do listen to, I get them fine (even with the tint), so for me...it's a non-issue.
If you're worried about eating the cost of the unit...then hook it up and test it out before you put the radio back in it's place completely. Get everything hooked up and turn the ignition on to ACC mode (make sure the booster is connected to something that comes on when the car is in ACC mode too). If it works fine and the signal is stronger...put your car back together and motor on with a smile. If it doesn't...turn the ignition off, disconnect the booster, put your radio back in and dash back together and take/send the booster back for a refund.
Re: #'s 338/339 "XM can and does provide traffic reports for your area. It also provides all the talk, sports or whatever else you want to listen to as well...commercial free.
Here's a link that shows you the channel for each of the cities that are covered:
Also, the other one that would seem feasible is to add and external antenna. One like a shark fin (BWM style) or any of the other ones that allows for AM/FM reception. You may even be able to find one that looks like the XM antennas too.
So are you saying the booster should be closer to the radio???
"So are you saying the booster should be closer to the radio??? "
No. The antenna booster should be closer to the source of the signal, or in our case, the rear windshield. We want to boost the signal by pushing it, not pulling it.
At least that is how MBZ does it in their older (W-210) E-class vehicles.
In at least two cars I know of, the AM reception was terrible, and in both cases, simply tightening up all the loose connections 'fixed' the problem.
Just had new non-metallic tint film installed on the rear window, and there is no difference in signal strength between no tint and the non-metalic film.
Do not use metallic film on the rear window as my first installer did. It'll kill your AM reception for sure.
RE; 344 I have been told the same thing. Even with poor cable TV reception, the booster amplifier is placed at the point where the signal enters the building, not at the TV set.
I understand the concept of it, but if it's not possible to make that happen, then you're going to have to connect it where you can. In this case...it just may be behind the radio.
You can go with a non-metallic tint, and not affect the radio reception, however...you will pay the price later on down the road when your tint has turned a beautiful deep purple color and you have to pay twice as much to have someone remove it and replace it with some more non-metallic tint.
In which case, you'll have spent more than you would had you simply TRIED using a signal booster just to see what would happen. Again, what's the worst that can happen? The booster doesn't work and you have to return it for a refund.
Nobody seems to use the Hyundai internet service manual from Hyundai............ The Azera has a booster it's called a "glass antenna module" it's found on the right rear passenger upper trim pillar and it should be easy to get at... check to see if connections are OK........All the info you want can be found under "Body Electrical Systems" If you want to see how to remove this pillar look under "Body (interior & Exterior)" P.S. The booster is powered by 5 volts dc
In the event messing around with the factory booster fails, maybe by knowing where it is...you can replace it with an aftermarket one using. Maybe one could be found with a higher voltage which should provide a stronger boost!
Higher voltage won't work. It need to be built into the amplifier by design. Buying a booster at a discount store won't help. remember you get what you pay for. I think that the booster that Hyundai has is about as good as you can get. The window antenna is just not the best choice for AM or FM. The XG350 I had only did a fair job with AM and I found that the connection to the booster was loose after re-connecting it improved the AM. My new Azera AM & FM works fine and I live in a rural area
As you can see, it boosts FM signals by 15 dB and AM signals by 10 dB, it also has a bypass switch so it doesn't always have to be one either. Oh yeah, it's made by Metra...one of the industry leaders in making car audio installation components and accessories.
No offense hjc1, but I highly doubt the booster Hyundai put in is the best you can get. It may be the best they could provide, but hardly the best you can get. Maybe for the area where the car was tested, it worked fine. However, I doubt if they ever thought about folks tinting their windows or trying to see how reception was in varying areas. I hate to say it, but in most cases...the sound system is almost and afterthought in cars of a value price point. Don't get me wrong though, for the price point of the Azera...it's a pretty darn good sounding system.
As I stated before, one fix that would definitely work would be to relocate the antenna so that it's on the exterior of the car and not encased in glass along with window defrost elements. There are many styles of antennas to choose from and a great deal of them would look very nice on the Azera. If AM is truly that important or you want to just increase the performance of your radio reception in general...this would probably be the best bet...IMHO.
There may be some that would disagree, but then again...nobody else is throwing suggestions out there, just reasons why something may or may not work.
Oh yeah, another fix would be to replace the radio. Most aftermarket radios have better tuners than OEM factory radios...in most cases. So if you're not wild about having your roof drilled into for an antenna, maybe replacing the radio would be the way to go.
RE: 354 Maybe the powers to be at Hyundai will give us a great deal to replace our OEM audio system with the soon to be introduced in dash combo Nav/Audio system using a shark fin antenna. Is this wishful thinking?
Go ahead and chalk it up as wishful thinking my man! LOL Considering what one with an '06 or '07 might have to pay Hyundai for one of their OEM nav units, you could easily get the new Pioneer AVIC-D3 for much less and end up with a better source unit to boot!
I would gather the OEM unit to cost upwards of $1000, in which case...to spend that kind of money, I would shoot for the AVIC-Z2 and end up with the built in 30 GB HD.
The item you referenced sells for $15 and give no relevant info like signal to noise ratio... Have you looked at the customer reviews for this item ??? NOT VERY GOOD again you get what you pay for. For the real do it yourself er GOOGLE am/fm boosters from electronic sites you will see many articles on building booster... Again I say that the booster supplied by Hyundai is about as good as your going to get using the glass antenna. The only solution is a outside antenna PERIOD ALSO complain to the dealer let them check the booster it should be covered under warranty. I just completed a 3000 mile trip and had very little problems with AM reception
It's not the only one out there, it's a representation of the fact that they do exist. I'm sure better ones can be located.
Complaining to Hyundai will do some good for future Hyundai vehicle owners, but not do any good for those that have the issue now. You can have the dealer look at the booster and if they feel there's an issue with it, it'll most likely be replaced with the same thing.
I agree the BEST (not only) solution would be an external antenna, which is something I stated early on in all of this. I suggested looking on eBay for a shark fin style antenna or other similar antennas which can be purchased for a very good price and then taking it to a stereo install shop and having them do the installation. If you're worried about how it'll look on your car...look around, most cars now are ending up with some sort of shark fin antenna (so many styles to chose from). The look better than the old mast or retractable (power) antennas, that's for sure!
I also stated that adding satellite radio to your existing radio would be a fix as well as satellite radio does offer traffic and weather for major cities (for those this would work for).
There are options out there, but it's up to the owner to decide what they feel the best one is for them. You may be willing to tackle the booster issue, if you do...I would expect you to post your results. I can only post a suggestion on it as I'm not going to be one to worry about it. I can give you everything else concerning the stereo system though as I have tackled swapping mine out already.
I am not one to tell someone they simply can't do something IF...it truly is an option. Who's to say the aftermarket booster won't work in the Azera? Until one tries it, nobody can say for sure. I have never said it was the ultimate answer, merely an optional avenue to investigate. If you go back and read my posts, I have offered more than one possible suggestion as to a fix for radio reception issues.
Comments
One way to combat this issue is to send your signal through a processor which upon output, increases the voltage of the signal and the increased voltage lowers the noise floor so that distortion is lessened greatly!
If you have a well designed system, you would never listen to it at levels that would lead to clipping and or distortion. The set up I have in my Azera now, I rarely turn the volume up past 15 because it's so clean and clear, playing it above that is actually too loud. I can play it at 10-12 going down the highway, with the windows down and hear every note clearly. Can my system clip or distort...yes it can. However, the more wattage you pump into the system...the lower the volume you can play it to hear everything. However, if your speakers aren't rated to handle the full potential of the rated power, turning it up will yield distortion.
However, the statement was made that increased wattage doesn't equate to louder music and that is VERY false. Here's what you do. Get a 2-channel amp rated at 50 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms. Hook it up to the stereo and play it at a set volume. Make a note of how loud the music sounds. Then, remove the amp and replace it with a 2-channel amp rated at 100 watts x 2 @ 4 ohms and play the same music at the same volume setting. Trust me, the music will be louder.
The problem may be that if your speakers can't handle the 100 watts of power, they will clip or distort much faster than they would with the 50 watts of power.
As a matter of fact, do this...just switch out the radio unit in your car with an aftermarket unit that will have more continuous output power than your factory unit. I guarantee you...it's going to play louder and cause your speakers to distort if you turn it up to a certain point and it would happen much quicker than with the factory radio.
You try listening to a 3 watt system in a car, I guarantee you...you will not be happy when cars start passing by and even with the windows up, you can't hear a thing. LOL
Is there a trim on the amp to decrease the level of the center channel as it is dominating over the others?
I have found that by swapping out the front door speakers with some Infinity Kappa coaxial speakers, the center channel became less prevelant and the sound stage evened out across the front of the car. The only reason I can think this happened is that the aftermarket Kappas are more efficient at utilizing the power from the factory amp, so the output is a little higher than the factory ones were.
Just another option to think about if you desire. There are a couple other posters that have replaced the front speakers and enjoyed the same results I have. If you do go this route, there is a guide available that shows how to access the door speakers for removal and replacement.
I have read almost everything in the forums so far about the audio upgrade in the Azzie but here we do not have all these speakers you are talking about as replacement ones. I have replaced recently the tweeters with after market ones and had improved the clarity but still the mids are quite dominant even with the Mid set to -7. The image is still emphasized in the center and thus somehow annoying.
It is logical that the headunit provides analog signal to the amp and it is strange that this signal cannot be attenuated.
Did you change already the Alpine 1242D and why? What is the new sub now?
Curiously, what was your choice in replacement tweeters in the front door panels?
I'm one of the people that allmet33 mentioned that also found the soundstage greatly improved with the infinity kappas installed in the front doors. That said, the center channel speaker is still somewhat dominant, and because of this I was thinking that better tweeters in the doors would also lessen that effect.
The amp Harmon Becker (Infinity) amp with a 3db or 6db decrease to the center channel is worh looking into as well. I believe that a measure of 3bd is equal to a halving (or doubling) of perceived volume by the human ear, so this amp may solve the issue for you.
Honestly, there is nothing you can do with the settings on the factory radio to change the prominence of the center channel.
Tweeters are pretty much tweeters. However, changing the door speakers to more effecient ones definitely change the sound staging. Thus...going with the Kappas or JBL GTO series are your best bet as they match the impedence of the factory speakers at 2 ohms. Any other speakers you try to use operate at 4 ohms, so you would actually make the situation worse.
If you just can't seem to find those speakers that I mentioned, then look for any 2 ohm 6.5" mid-driver or coaxial speaker and look for a high sensitivity rating (90+).
If THAT isn't an option, then contact the folks at Infinity's OEM division and inquire as to getting the factory amp replaced with one that has the center channel attenuated down. If I recall correctly, the one poster that did it went with the -6 dB correction. (I recall him mentioning that Infinity sent him one amp with a -3 dB and a -6 dB on the center channel). Just tell them you're unhappy with the uneven sound and they should hook you right up.
It's not strange that the signal can't be attenuated, in most cases when you're dealing with a premium factory sound system, those types of controls are eliminated so that customers can't mess them up. That is why the aftermarket world gets so much business from folks like me. I like being able to control every aspect of my music. So changing the head unit out provided me a very good control center with which to start.
I did change the Alpine Type-R I had as I fried it. After the Alpine, I went to an Audiobahn DUB 1000, then I tried two Pioneer 800 watt rms subs...all got fried. Right now, I've got the Phoenix Gold Xenon sub running off my Kenwood KAC-7202 amp. It's a good match (sub is rated at 450 watts rms and the amp is kicking out 460 watts). However, I will be removing that set up as I ordered a second Xenon sub and I will run the pair off the Xenon amp and the signal will be cleaned up with the Phoenix Gold signal processor I got too.
Any other questions?
The tweeters I have chosen are Hertz DC16, for I had very good experience with them before nevertheless they are the entry level (also they are part of a component system, but are sold seperately). I would assume that any tweeter from a premium brand will outperform the stocks with crisperer and clearer sound.
Just like allmet33 I feel the urge to control every aspect of the audio system and constantly change settings, experiment with different models, positions, etc. Currently I live in Dubai and I am slowly getting to know the car audio stores and shops, but so far haven't spotted a 2Ohm 6.5 set of speakers. Ebay delivery will be expensive though...
I am even more puzzled with the attenuation of the signal to the amp knowing that the headunit is not produced by Infinity so it should be a standard one (more or less). I am planning this weekend to dismount the amp and take a closer look - maybe there is a trim (inside) to level the channels!? Anything you know on this one allmet33 will be of great use (harness, scheme)!
allmet33 are you still using the stock amp and how do you feed signal to it?
If you want to have more control over your sound system, then you'll really need to change out the head unit.
There are several vendors on Ebay that ship overseas now. You may also want to contact Infinity and ask them if they have a brand name they produce overseas. You might be surprised! I know it may be tough or slightly more expensive, but that's the price you pay for what you want to accomplish.
I am still using the factory amp, I have my head unit wired using the wire harness from Scosche, so it's utilizing the factory wiring. From my head unit, I am using the rear speaker RCA outputs to run the signal to my aftermarket amp for the sub. My head unit allows me to switch the rear output to be a subwoofer output, thus allowing me to cross it off at the 80 Hz (low pass) that I have it set on.
As far as the other settings, the front sound stage (door speakers, tweeters and center channel) is crossed off at 80 Hz (high pass) and the rear sound stage (rear door speakers and factory subwoofer) is crossed off at 100 Hz (high pass). Why 100 Hz you ask? I have found that the factory subwoofer really doesn't like frequencies lower than that when you really push it. However, crossing it off there allows you to play it harder without distortion.
Can you advise me on my choice -> I plan to go for the following:
amp - alpine MRP-M650
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=MRP-M650
sub - alpine SWR-1242D
http://www.alpine-usa.com/US-en/products/product.php?model=SWR-1242D
or
Eclipse SW7200
http://www.eclipse-web.com/sw7000/sw7200.html
I'm not sure what you mean by standard inputs to the factory amp. It's not the RCA type if that's what you mean. There are two choices you have when it comes to splicing into the rear speaker channels.
#1) Use a hi-lo converter and locate the rear speaker wires behind the head unit and tap in there, then run an RCA cable from there to the trunk for your sub.
#2) Using an amp that has hi-level inputs and then you can just tap into the rear speaker wires at the amp in the trunk (if you can figure out which ones they are) and take them to the amp.
As far as your goal for the center channel, you would probably save yourself a lot of headache and effort if you just go with the 6.5" 2 ohm speaker replacement. Trust me...less effort involved here.
Also, one thing that really struck me about the complaints folks have about the center channel. It's a surround sound set up and in all surround sound set ups, the center channel speaker is the prevelant source of sound. If you go to a theater, most of the sound comes from directly in front of you, then you hear fill in sounds, ambient sounds and transitional sounds from the left to right speakers and the rear speakers depending on how the sound is.
Anyway...
As far as your choice of amps, the new Alpine amps are awesome. I think it would be a great match for the sub you've chosen as well. The sub, is definitely a good sub, I had the 10" version in a sealed .5 cu. ft. box and it hit VERY nicely. I think you'll be quite pleased with the sound.
Honestly, if you're looking for the best option to control all the sound and make things sound great...change the head unit and you can't go wrong at all!!!
Good luck!!!
If you are considering changing the head unit, why not wait to see the new OEM unit containing navigation, to see how it performs?
Only problem with that is if someone is looking for sound control...it won't offer any more than the current head units offer. Either way, you're paying for a replacement head unit.
For the cleanest signal to the sub amp, switching to an aftermarket head unit and using RCA patch cables directly to the amp from that.
Besides, for what you would end up paying for and OEM Nav unit, you can get an even better aftermarket unit.
Thanks
Once you have removed all the screws, firmly grasp the panel at the top where the vents are and pull away from the dash. It may take a little effort, and be careful not to muscle it out because there are some wire harnesses you must disconnect to fully remove the panel. Once you have disconnected all the harnesses...you have complete access to the radio. There are 4 screws holding it in place.
Of course, putting everything back is just the reverse of all these steps.
If you're still worried about the airbags...disconnect the postive side of the battery and then go about the removal.
I'm not sure what your concern is about equipment manufactured in China, as almost all major electronic companies use facilities in China for their production. They all have service facilities in the US to make repairs or swap units for warranty replacement.
Floridabob, as far as I can check, I would have to send the unit back to the place where I might buy it in the event of problems.
Every foreign made electronic product that I have ever purchased has had a US facility to make repairs.
If you purchase it thru a Hyundai dealer or a reputable retailer, they will handle the warranty problems for you.
If you do not want to loose your present AM reception,
DO NOT TINT the REAR WINDOW.
I lost my good AM reception big time when that so and so window tinter told me that his
film would not change anything, so I went ahead and had him tint my rear windshield.
He lied!
He wanted three hours and $35 to remove his tint. I removed it myself in half an hour.
Now I have my original good AM reception back again.
Don't believe those tint shops that'll tell you that their window tint film doesn't effect your AM reception.
My AM reception stinks with no tint on windows
IF you think it is bad now, try tinting your rear window and see what happens.
You just need to find a guy who knows what he is doing.
I need someone who is capable of boosting the AM signal.
I have posted this before, but have not heard a solution.
For me, it's no great loss as I hardly listen to the radio. I don't like all the commmercials, don't like listening to repetitive music and I don't care for talk radio. So...my CD player gets used about 98% of the time.
Some of us older types still use AM.
Where we live, we still like to hear traffic reports. FM, XM or a CD player do not provide that.
It should be possible to install a stronger antenna amplifier in place of what is being used now.
Anyone? :confuse:
XM can and does provide traffic reports for your area. It also provides all the talk, sports or whatever else you want to listen to as well...commercial free. Here's a link that shows you the channel for each of the cities that are covered:
XM Traffic & Weather
I had suggested installing a signal booster once before, but someone else shot the idea down saying it would be a waste of time and effort, as there should already be one in use. Personally, I don't think it would hurt to try it out.
The other suggestion I offered was to get a shark fin style or XM style antenna and mount it on the rear part of the roof so it won't be blocked by any metallic tint and the reception should be fine as well. Only problem with this is you would want to get it done professionally because it would require drilling a hole in your roof and you want to make sure it would be sealed real good.
Even without the metallic tint on the rear window, AM reception wasn't exactly outstanding with the Azera anyway. So the tint took what was marginal and made it worse. Honestly, I think it's poor design to be honest, the rear window along with the rear window defrost elements...just doesn't seem to be a great combination. I've had cars where the antenna element was in the front windshield and reception was fine. Of course, it makes for a more costly replacement should the need ever come up for a new windshield.'
Personally, I'm with you...I believe a signal booster could be used. They can be purchased online for around $15. Installation is really simple. There's a power and ground wire that need to be hooked up accordingly and then you plug the antenna lead into the unit and then plug the lead from the unit into the radio...PRESTO!
Is it not true that an antenna should be boosted at the antenna end to push the signal rather than at the receiver end to pull the signal?
If you have an antenna in the back (like the Azera), then sure, you can take the car apart to look for where you might be able to hook the booster up, but then you'll also need to find a way to conceal the unit as well.
If all else either fails or doesn't seem to work, why not give it a shot? Best case scenario...you end up with better reception. Sure, I could go purchase a booster and try it, but I have no need for it as I'm not one complaining about crappy AM reception. The FM signals I do listen to, I get them fine (even with the tint), so for me...it's a non-issue.
If you're worried about eating the cost of the unit...then hook it up and test it out before you put the radio back in it's place completely. Get everything hooked up and turn the ignition on to ACC mode (make sure the booster is connected to something that comes on when the car is in ACC mode too). If it works fine and the signal is stronger...put your car back together and motor on with a smile. If it doesn't...turn the ignition off, disconnect the booster, put your radio back in and dash back together and take/send the booster back for a refund.
"XM can and does provide traffic reports for your area. It also provides all the talk,
sports or whatever else you want to listen to as well...commercial free.
Here's a link that shows you the channel for each of the cities that are covered:
XM Traffic & Weather" (http://www.xmradio.com/onxm/channelpage.xmc?ch=210-230)
Sure works well indeed! Thanks for the tip.
"Is it not true that an antenna should be boosted at the antenna end
to push the signal rather than at the receiver end to pull the signal?"
Not so!
Same as trying to draw water from a well at the delivery end. The closer the pump is to the source, the better.
Also, the other one that would seem feasible is to add and external antenna. One like a shark fin (BWM style) or any of the other ones that allows for AM/FM reception. You may even be able to find one that looks like the XM antennas too.
So are you saying the booster should be closer to the radio???
No. The antenna booster should be closer to the source of the signal, or in our case, the rear windshield.
We want to boost the signal by pushing it, not pulling it.
At least that is how MBZ does it in their older (W-210) E-class vehicles.
In at least two cars I know of, the AM reception was terrible, and in both cases,
simply tightening up all the loose connections 'fixed' the problem.
Just had new non-metallic tint film installed on the rear window, and there is
no difference in signal strength between no tint and the non-metalic film.
Do not use metallic film on the rear window as my first installer did. It'll kill your AM reception for sure.
Perhaps someone that's interested will remove that cover under the rear
window and see if there is some sort of antenna booster there now? :confuse:
I have been told the same thing. Even with poor cable TV reception, the booster amplifier is placed at the point where the signal enters the building, not at the TV set.
You can go with a non-metallic tint, and not affect the radio reception, however...you will pay the price later on down the road when your tint has turned a beautiful deep purple color and you have to pay twice as much to have someone remove it and replace it with some more non-metallic tint.
In which case, you'll have spent more than you would had you simply TRIED using a signal booster just to see what would happen. Again, what's the worst that can happen? The booster doesn't work and you have to return it for a refund.
If you want to see how to remove this pillar look under
"Body (interior & Exterior)"
P.S. The booster is powered by 5 volts dc
Why else would Hyundai do it any differently than other manufactures. :confuse:
The window antenna is just not the best choice for AM or FM.
The XG350 I had only did a fair job with AM and I found that the connection to the booster was loose after re-connecting it improved the AM. My new Azera AM & FM works fine and I live in a rural area
Thanks!
We don't have to read. That's what we've got you guys for.
( Typical management statement.)
I agree that the rear window location is probably one of the worst ones.
In case anyone may be interested in trying:AM/FM signal booster
As you can see, it boosts FM signals by 15 dB and AM signals by 10 dB, it also has a bypass switch so it doesn't always have to be one either. Oh yeah, it's made by Metra...one of the industry leaders in making car audio installation components and accessories.
No offense hjc1, but I highly doubt the booster Hyundai put in is the best you can get. It may be the best they could provide, but hardly the best you can get. Maybe for the area where the car was tested, it worked fine. However, I doubt if they ever thought about folks tinting their windows or trying to see how reception was in varying areas. I hate to say it, but in most cases...the sound system is almost and afterthought in cars of a value price point. Don't get me wrong though, for the price point of the Azera...it's a pretty darn good sounding system.
As I stated before, one fix that would definitely work would be to relocate the antenna so that it's on the exterior of the car and not encased in glass along with window defrost elements. There are many styles of antennas to choose from and a great deal of them would look very nice on the Azera. If AM is truly that important or you want to just increase the performance of your radio reception in general...this would probably be the best bet...IMHO.
There may be some that would disagree, but then again...nobody else is throwing suggestions out there, just reasons why something may or may not work.
Oh yeah, another fix would be to replace the radio. Most aftermarket radios have better tuners than OEM factory radios...in most cases. So if you're not wild about having your roof drilled into for an antenna, maybe replacing the radio would be the way to go.
Maybe the powers to be at Hyundai will give us a great deal to replace our OEM audio system with the soon to be introduced in dash combo Nav/Audio system using a shark fin antenna.
Is this wishful thinking?
I would gather the OEM unit to cost upwards of $1000, in which case...to spend that kind of money, I would shoot for the AVIC-Z2 and end up with the built in 30 GB HD.
again you get what you pay for. For the real do it yourself er GOOGLE am/fm boosters from electronic sites you will see many articles on building booster...
Again I say that the booster supplied by Hyundai is about as good as your going to get using the glass antenna.
The only solution is a outside antenna PERIOD
ALSO complain to the dealer let them check the booster
it should be covered under warranty.
I just completed a 3000 mile trip and had very little problems with AM reception
Complaining to Hyundai will do some good for future Hyundai vehicle owners, but not do any good for those that have the issue now. You can have the dealer look at the booster and if they feel there's an issue with it, it'll most likely be replaced with the same thing.
I agree the BEST (not only) solution would be an external antenna, which is something I stated early on in all of this. I suggested looking on eBay for a shark fin style antenna or other similar antennas which can be purchased for a very good price and then taking it to a stereo install shop and having them do the installation. If you're worried about how it'll look on your car...look around, most cars now are ending up with some sort of shark fin antenna (so many styles to chose from). The look better than the old mast or retractable (power) antennas, that's for sure!
I also stated that adding satellite radio to your existing radio would be a fix as well as satellite radio does offer traffic and weather for major cities (for those this would work for).
There are options out there, but it's up to the owner to decide what they feel the best one is for them. You may be willing to tackle the booster issue, if you do...I would expect you to post your results. I can only post a suggestion on it as I'm not going to be one to worry about it. I can give you everything else concerning the stereo system though as I have tackled swapping mine out already.
I am not one to tell someone they simply can't do something IF...it truly is an option. Who's to say the aftermarket booster won't work in the Azera? Until one tries it, nobody can say for sure. I have never said it was the ultimate answer, merely an optional avenue to investigate. If you go back and read my posts, I have offered more than one possible suggestion as to a fix for radio reception issues.