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My car has warped front rotors, with front vibration when applying brakes at speed over 40mph
What would the "ball park" cost of replacing front rotors (and probably pads) with labor charge??
Anybody with recent experience with this??
If there is absolutely no fluid leaking under, or on, any part of the car then you have two possibilities: the engine is sucking it out of the brake system (could this even happen?) OR you never had enough when the car was new and are still filling up the lines each time you add fluid (more likely).
Whatever, the dealer should fix the problem immediately as air, like water, will NOT work in a fluid brake system. A quick drain and fill of the brake system, to remove trapped air, may be the easiest solution. Or maybe the first step in finding the trouble.
Others in the forum may have more ideas... but fluid consumption like this is not normal. My '03 XL has 37k on it... a wonderful car, it does not consume brake fluid. Enjoy your Avy...
I also have a 97 avalon and am getting ready to do the brakes. Any special tools required for the Avalon? I've done my Suburban and Grand Prix before. I have 75K miles. Will new rotors be required or can I just turn? Thanks.
This will be the second front brake job (140K mi).
The first, at 80K mi included new pads and had the rotors turned. Since then, major VIBRATION when braking hard at speed over 40mph. The Toyota service mgr claims that the original rotors can be turned 2 or 3 times before needing replacement.
Question is, do I risk having the same vibration if I have them turned again, or should they be able to smooth out the imperfections that must be the cause of the vibration? (Different shop people this time around). The estimated difference in cost for new vs. turned rotors is
around $250.
IMO, do NOT turn rotors. Besides getting more vibration when applying the brakes, they will have thinned the metal enough to have them start to warp sooner, and this becomes a viscous cycle. To answer you question, it can smooth out the warpage, but it is not the same thickness anymore, and the rotor cannot cool the same. In addition in may cause the rotor to be out of balance so you never achieve a good balance in your wheel/tire combination anymore.
I have found the OEM parts (Toyota parts) regarding brake components to be INFERIOR, NOT SUPERIOR in quality. Many manufactures have "cheaped out" contracting to lesser qualtiy companies to manufacture there brake parts.
I recently had to replace my rotors and pads after about 48K and used all aftermarket parts with the exception of TRD (Toyota Racing Development) front pads. I put on SP Rotors, slotted and drilled in the front and back with new pads all around and also flushed and changed the brake fluid (DOT 3 or DOT 4 but NOT DOT 5). There is a place on the net, called Raceshopper, out of Syracuse, NY that carries higher quality parts, albeit, not cheap, but reasonable. My brakes are sure, solid, and strong better than what came originally on the car.
IMO, don't compromise on this part of the car!!! It is one of the most important parts and can mean the difference b/w life and not life. Use the best components and either do it yourself or have someone do it, who is knowledgeable and meticulous in details. You notice you Avalon never braked better.
Good luck.
abfisch
George
nz2l@frontiernet.net
Another said I probably let the care set outside where there was a lot of moisture (like
near the ocean) in the air and it caused a rust film to form on the rotors and this causes the squeaking.
I haven't done anything, I just continue to drive the car. The squeaks seem to have gone away.
Now, whether 38,000 miles is when the system should be flushed, and whether a "power flush" is required are good questions.
My experience has been to have the brakes bled to push the water out. Maybe the power flush does a better job.
I guess what you should research is how much brake repairs can cost versus having the system flushed.
I'm not real big on using Dealers for maintenance. If you still have suspicions, find a good mechanic and ask him.
As to the transmission, I have heard that Toyota transmissions can be pretty brutal on the fluid so its a good idea to keep up on the changes. I also know that if you have an oil cooler, (most cars have one in the radiator; others may have a separate unit) that filings from the transmission can migrate there and then settle out in the bends of the tubing, where they begin to restrict the fluid movement. The effect can be that your transmission gets hotter than it should, and that's not good at all. So flushing once in a while is a good idea. Again, whether 38,000 miles is enough to cause a build up that you should be concerned about is something I don't know. But keep in mind that this stuff happens to all automatics, not just Toyota.
I’ve had my 98’ Avalon for almost 2 years and didn’t drive it much or had any major issues. It currently has 99,000 k on it.
Recently when I drive for at least for half an hour on a highway, the car engine starts to shake vigorously and I fill the car going back and forth while on the highway speed(almost like power is loosing and coming back). When I’m stopping at the light or at a stop while this is happening, while I am breaking, the engine’s power is sounding (like I am pressing on the gas and breaking at the same time and releasesing, which I am not)
When I drive in the city it does not happen. But when I’m on the highway something must trigger the engine to act this way.
After I turn off the engine and wait, then start the car back on; the problem disappears until I go back on the highway.
Has anyone else experienced the same issue?
Any suggestions or comments?
Thanks
Greg
Some pads do squeal but there solutions I mentioned above that work.
I hope this is of some help. I am going to be changing the Avalon front rotors and brakes with factory pads and rotors which are more expensive but work well.
Need help to test/replace the rear left ABS sensor of my 1998 toyota Avalon.
How to test it? Are the wires for the sensor near the back seat?
Does the wires go all the way to the front by the motor?
I think that there is probably a loose connection to the sensor since problem started after struts were replaced. :confuse:
Visually, the calipers and the rotors (not the contact surface) have a lot of rust, but appraently the car was in upstate NY before it came to me, so this can be explained by the preivous owner being too lazy to do under-carriage wash frequently. :sick:
I've argued with the dealer who did the certification several times, but they claim that this is not their responsibility since this kind of problem can never be "predicted," thus they had no reason to replace the brake system during certification.
Now, my question is, is this kind of problem normal? Should the dealer who did the certification be held responsible? How can I deal with this problem? I've already contacted several lemon law lawyers, but they say that there isn't much I can do based on the lemon law, and the only option I have is to write an angry letter to Toyota and hope for the best.
I'd have to agree with the lawyers, this isn't a lemon law case but it could be argued under other articles. Especially if the Certified covered the brake systems. Pads wouldn't be covered more then likely since they are a normal wear item. Rotors and calipers might be covered under a Certified plan.
Sorry to hear of your problems.
MikeS.
I own a 99 Avalon XL with 66k. I was driving the vehicle the other day and noticed two things. First, there was a burning metal smell coming from the drivers side
tire or wheel well. I've also noticed that there is a clicking noise on tight turns
say in a parking lot. It's most noticable with the windows down.
Any help on as to what it could be?
Thanks in advance. :surprise:
Please tell us what you find out.
Toyota Ken
abfisch
Many Avalon owners have similar problems. My opinions are based on real life circumstances you can find in various posts.
1. Change struts to a premium brand, either TokicoHP or KYB. You will notice a very demonstrable improvement in handling, emergency handling, stability and braking. A 4 wheel alignment is needed at that time. Do not bring it to a Toyota dealership unless they can use aftermarket premium parts, which the OE are not.
2. Brakes. Never turn rotors.They are never as effective as dissipating heat. Again, the OE rotors are most likely made not in Japan(you get the message). Go buy premium rotors, and new pads, have them lube the appropriate bolts that the caliper slides on, and probably change/bleed the brake fluid(every 3 years regardless of mileage).
You should see a vast improvement as well. Slotted or drilled rotors, will even give you more bite, but at the expense of money, a low moan when the pedal is applied and increase pad wear.
Good luck. If you cannot perform the brakes, look for a shop that does this all the time.
abfisch
Thanks in advance
Taking it to a independent who knows Toyota is a great idea. They may be able to fix it for much less. I know you probably know this now, but buying (not leasing) a first year model, no matter what the brand, with all the bells and whistles is not a good idea, statistically. Even more so if the car is not garaged.
I own an 02 Avalon XL, and an 04 BMW 325ci, both of which I got the least amount of electronic features I could stand, and both are garaged. Both are not first or second model years although the BMW year has been problematic, I have had no problems to date. Sure I will but not now.
I hope you have good luck othewise, it is a fine car.
abfisch
6/11/03 52,567 miles
bad charcoal canister VSV, total cost incl labor to repair $152.11
10/16/03 56,694 miles
clean sensor, reinstall clear code, total cost incl labor to repair $130.50
6/24/04 60,252 miles
same as above, total cost incl. labor $43.50 [they say they gave me a break]
1/11/06 77,807 miles
same as above, in the Toyota shop tonight, I assume will cost me $120 or so [wife left gas cap loose].
Bought this car for cash, took delivery 12/24/99. Major problems:
above VSC [will be about $470 out of my own pocket]
sticking right rear brake caliper [$700 under warranty]
new radio/CD player [$650 under warranty]
new front ball joints [$500 under warranty]
new computer [$2,000 under warranty]
new struts [$800 under warranty]
four batteries
three sets of tires [finally junked crappy Michelins for excellent Goodyears]
usual change transmission, coolent, brake fluid flushes
new platinum plugs
three a/c filters
usual oil/filter changes every 3,000 miles
numerous wiper blades
new headlights
Conclusion:
NEVER buy an Avalon, just lease one for a max of three years!
Couple of deserving comments here. I have a 02 Avalon now with 77K on it. And yes, I have had issues some of them similar to yours, but not nearly as exhautive. As mentioned numerous times in this forum, the 00-04 Avalon brakes especially the rear discs, are an inexpensive/inferior design and the calipers freeze up quite easily, espeically when exposed to cold weather extremes. Without looking and expecting the brakes for wear and function, this overloads the fronts and there you go. The VSC, mostly on the XLS never gives me headaches since I didn't have it, and replaced my inferior struts with a set of premium struts, allowing increased stability NON electronic, with better emergency braking and avoidance, about $700 with the alignment, more expensive than your $470 repair alone but you had to replace the struts anyway. Premium struts are guaranteed for the lifetime of the original owner, not the labor I may add.
Again, buying a first year model, especially ladened with excessive electronic gizmos, statistically was not a manuever that should be practiced when automobile shopping. Waiting to the third year of that models provides to be much more a conservative, but less aggrevating move. Those that emotionally reserve are usually rewarded. I really am not impressed with the adage, but this is a Toyota or Honda. All you have to do is read the very interesting other forums, even a car like the Honda Civic and Accord and look at the new model year reliability records. Front brake problems abound as well as other electronic issues. Your year Avalon had a number of seal problems I believe with water leakage, not found in later models. Believe it or not, mine had a bad innner not outer CV joint, which I had to diagnosis myself sinc ethe dealership nor the corporation did not have the acutely to diagnosis it properly.
In any event, my 02 runs better now, at 78K that it ever did before, albeit very aggrevating iin the first two years and this was the thrid model yeear. I am going to see if I can get it to 300K, as my last car, Civic 90 I got to 236K.
Time will tell. I still enjoy this car, and I do have a 04 325ci BMW as well, but this one is way move comfortable as a daily driver that also tows.
abfisch
I presume that such problem has been eliminated on new/subsequent year Avalons, and merely doing so reveals such defect to begin with. Saying that, I presume it would cost Toyota a $million+ to refund such VSC repair costs to consumers, easily instituted with a mass mailing to registered owners. I'll be first on line . . . "Ya owe me $957 in total!"]
Best brand new car I ever owned . . . 1962, 1967, 1968, 1974 Cadillacs! Hum . . . time to visit GM once again!
Having problem with ABS coming on at slow speeds when applying brakes. Have replaced 3 out of 4 wheel speed sensors. No codes in memory. Checked remaining speed sensor with lab scope - has good pattern. Also, a slight buzz noise from front of vehicle every time you hit the brake when coming to a stop, this noise only last a second or 2.
Please help.
If that was it, it was the ABS hammering the brakes with modulation to prevent the tires from skidding while the brakes are applied. It should happen only on wet road. If your tires are bald then it could happen on dry road during hard braking.
That's proof that the ABS is working in your car.
I bought a used 95Avalon XL recently. Then i discovered there is a greece leakage in front passenger side wheel and when i took it to auto service center they have adviced to change the axle. But it does not make any noise. Can someone let me know can i take chance until i hear noise so that i can fix or is it risk driving with this spoiled axle. How much does it cost in replacing it, local service center had quoted $310.
Thanks in Advance.
abfisch
This is my first post. I recently bought a used 2001 Avalon. Has 120K on it but bought it after i read its reviews and found that it might be good for another 50 - 75K.
I have two issues with the car:
1. The ABS light keeps turning on and off. When it turns ON, and I shut off the engine and turn it back on, the ABS indicator turns OFF. The previous owner changed the tyres and they are supposedly bigger than the OEM indicated size. Would that be causing this problem.
2. THe VSC light (basically it is not working!!) is permanently ON. The seller told me this is becasue of the tyre issue. But after reading a few posts I am beginning to have doubts about this claim.
I am a relative newbie and this is only the second automobile in my life. Can sombody who knows / has tackled this problem help me out. Would greatly appreciate it.
rgds
This is not my area of expertise, but I don't think it is the tire. It is either the receptor or the sending unit, or something else electronic. This is for the ABS. For the VSC, another electronic gizmo, I am not too sure. Maybe someone else who has more electronic troubleshooting expertise can join in here.
It is a good car, though, if you can get past these issues. You should have the ABS tested and fixed. The VSC also a safety feature, IMO, is not as good as replacing the struts, which at the mileage that you have, might be a better way to spend money for repair/maintenance. Replace the struts with a premium aftermarket brand. You will get better stability control in more situations including emergency handling that with worn struts and VSC.
abfisch
Also my windshield wipers go too far to the right and makes a loud noise when in use. Is there away of adjusting the sweep?
Thanks for the help!
Tammy
00'xls has these lights come on bi-weekly.
When they come on, it seems like ALL brakes are being applied!
Checked brake fluid level,gas cap tight.NO "check engine light".
Any responses out there?
I just examined all 4 brakes and ABS sensors-cleaned.
It seems to me,if system detects problem,brakes should revert to a conventional action1?
Thanks,Jeff.