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Toyota Avalon Starting Difficulties
1999 Avalon would not start this morning. Did notice windows were slow the day before. Replaced the battery and still would not start. Husband started looking @ it(was his own VW mechanic) and found if he banged on the starter it would start. Besides having 3 sets of tires this is the first problem. Dealer wants $500+ and independent wants $380. Husband found starter for under $200 and thinks he can do it. Any other starting problems out there? What happens if he replaces that and it still doesn't start?
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Replacement, in my 96, requires removing the battery, battery tray and cruise control actuator...should be the same, or real similar...nomad
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
But, in the past few weeks, in three occasions, we had problem starting the Avalon. When we tried to start, the engine at first did not crank at all, there were some fast clicking sounds, then the audio system made repeated noises as if trying to change the tape and CD, all the meters on the dash board also went up and down once. After few more tries, and about 15 to 25 minutes, the engine finally would crank slowly and finally got started. At that time, everything seem normal again, except that all the settings for the LCD display (time, date, ...etc.) and the audio system all went to the original default and need to be setup again. I did check the battery and found the indicator to be "green" indicating the battery appeared to be normal and charged.
Please let me know what may cause this problem? What do I need to do to fix and prevent this from happening again?
Good post on the battery. Never knew the light was just for one cell. Will change the battery after 5 years then. What type of battery did you purchase???
"Feed the forum"
abfisch
Ended up with an Exide 84 month battery. Went out to get a Sears DH, but the Exide cost was much less at the time. Have also had very good service from Delco batteries in my old 1984 Toyota Van. The battery was under the floor on these and having an add no water battery made sense. Only put in two in 18 years. OE lasted about 5 years. The first Delco lasted about 8. The second Delco was still doing fine when I sold the van at 18.5 years.
BTW, The Exide now in my Avalon has no green eye. Not a clear case either. I have to remove the caps on top to check the water. So far in about two years only two cells have needed water, and then only a tiny amount.
Thanks!
Have driven my amazingly trouble free 98 Avy for
150K miles. Just recently have been experiencing a difficulty on re-starts. Never have any problem if car has been sitting for an hour or more.
Engine will turn over but stutter wanting to die.
Sometimes I can catch it before it dies by hitting accelerator. I was thinking fuel filter since it has been awhile since last changed.
Any thoughts? Thank you!
How hard is it to replace a starter?
I would appreciate all your help. :confuse: :sick:
How hard is it to replace a starter? "
I replaced the brushes and contacts on a 68 Ford station wagon sevreal times, back in the 70's. It wasn't hard to do and a whole lot cheaper then a rebuilt starter. As for doing it on FWD car with the engine shoe-horned into the compartment I haven't a clue. If you can get to the starter and get it out and back in decently easy then I'd say go-4-it!
MikeS.
Three times this week, the car has done the same thing--refusing to stay started, not wanting to stay running at idle unless you give it a lot of gas and nurse it along. We took it to our local Toyota dealer yesterday. Their solution--"cleaned throttle body." Talk about feel insulted when I heard their solution--in other words, they had no idea what the problem was, just wastefully threw some of my money at it. We got it back home today, and guess what? Right off the bat, it would not hold a start. We delivered it back to the local dealer's shop.
Any ideas on what could be causing this problem? The car has 95,000 miles on it, and I have loved this car the past five years. It is my first Toyota (my first non-Detroit auto), and it has been wonderful until this starting thing flared up. Thank y'all for y'all's help!
The throttle body and MAF sensor do need cleaned about every 60K miles but usually you'll notice a loss of power rather then a hard start.
MikeS.
I decided to fix the problem, after not getting much help from my Toyota Dealer.
It started out as a slow idle problem. the engine would run very slowly around 400 rpm, but eventually would run fine. After several episodes of the slow idle over a period of 2 years, it began to start and not idle at all, so I removed the battery cables to reset the engine management and that worked for a couple of days.
To make a long story short I removed the idle control valve from underneath the throttle body and cleaned the carbon crud off of the shaft inside of it let it rotate freely. I used an old toothbrush and carb cleaner. Problem Solved!!
Can you please describe in detail how this is done so I know when it happens to me.
Thanks.
abfisch
Remove the rubber air intake (2) hoses at the throttle body and look inside the body. the tube on the right side has the IAC valve opening for air flow to bypass the throttle blades at idle.
It took me about an hour and half to disconnect and clean the IAC.
I disconnected the negative battery cable
removed the air filter
removed the connectors from the IAC and the throttle position sensor
I had to remove some black hoses from underneath the throttle body and on top of the air cleaner box get clearance that I would need later when I unbolted the throttle body from the intake manifold.
Remove the (3) bolts (2) on top and (1) on the bottom .
Also remove a screw from the firewall side of the throttle body to release it from the engine.
Turn the throttle body to remove the (4) phillips head screws.
There is a rubber gasket underneath, Because engine coolant does circulate through the valve, you only loose about a tablespoon of coolant. I did reuse the rubber gasket.
After you inspect it remove the electrical connector (2) screws carefully pull it away from the IAC.
Look for signs of carbon or scoring on the shaft that rotates also check the operation of the little door openning under the shaft, it opens and closes.
Mine didn't rotate freely and was dirty.(NOTE: the shaft only rotates enough to open and close the door beneath it.
I used a toothbrush and carb cleaner to free it up , the spray will empty out of the opening on the bottom.
It not difficult but there is never enough room to work under the hood.
Before you remove stuff , you have to check if there is a wire attached to it.
If you have a problem with your idle you might try spraying some carb cleaner through the opening in the throttle down to the IAC.
Paul
Thank you for you help. You just save my car. I just clean the "Thlottle Body Idle Speed Control Valve" yesterday. Problem Solved
Thank you very much
You're welcome, I'm glad your Highlander is back to normal.
My Avalon has been idling and running good, since I cleaned the IAC valve.
I'm reading posts on the 6 Disc CD system in my Avalon.
Mine quit and will not eject the discs.
paul
Took me about two hours with a manual(I am slow and thorough). Found the Idle control valve was sticking with carbon build up.
It took me about the same amount of time. I didn't want to mess up anything taking the throttle body apart and putting it back together.
My wife sure is a happy camper.
It's hard to believe the dealer had no clue to yours or my problem.
I probably should have responded to the quality control letters they send out after you make a service call.
I have a similar issue with a 1998 Toyota Avalon XLS but it's intermittent. When it happens all the lights come on and looks fine but instead of hearing the starter turning I just hear a semi-loud click coming from the engine compartment if I have the window down. My lights do dim when this happens. I have tried turning off all the accessories, lights, etc but it does not seem to matter. I have also had the battery tested good. When the car fails to start I usually have to try another one to 5 times and then instead of a loud click the starter finally turns over the engine and it starts. It has happened for the last 10 days and is happening more and more each day.
Any suggestions? I thought possible starter problem or some other relay/ignition control module type thing? I've brushed/cleaned the battery contacts and the battery store said the battery tests good.
Thanks!
Stan
tested-one year old-ok. Replaced the original starter.Still
hear just the click-all accesories and lights work so I have ruled ouy the alternator. I cleaned the battery clamps and checked and cleaned neg and pos wires for corrosion. i
have checked fuses. Also I cannot jump start vehicle either.
Any ideas? Thanks.
removed 2 bolts to the positive clamp(where two wires come together to the clamp)Even though I had dilligently cleaned the external area-these two small metal plates had corrosion
where they sandwiched between the two bolts)He cleaned them
and the car starts beautifully.Even though I needlessly replaced the starter- I would have needed a starter eventually...It's always the small things I overlook----- Lessons learned............
I just did mine. It looks like new. The battery is going on its 5th year.
abfisch
To my embarassment, I may have filled the battery with a little bit too much of distilled H20, and then sitting in the heat, expanded it, came out of the filler holes and onto that center metal holder, hench the corrosion. Since then I noticed on the side of the battery, which is slightly tranlucent, a mark that says min and max to keep up with the maitenance. I did not notice this before but anyone who just does simple battery maintenance once a year, this is what you should look for and go buy. I am going to see if I can get 8 years on this battery just by doing the simple maintenance on it.
The rear PU(polyurethane bushings) needed regreasing as well, which at my age, is becoming a little painful. But smooth and quiet after getting under there, cleaning the inner diameter and outdiamter and then applying blue marine grease which is hydrophilic. The sway bar bushing seem to get the most work out as the bars are constantly pivoting in the inner core. Rubber after 70K has to be degraded especially in salt areas. I do think these PU bushings are an effective, and inexpensive upgrade to the handling of this vehicle, although they do require greasing once a year and transmit just a hint more vibration but nothing unacceptable to a 40-50 year old bad back.
abfisch
My Toyota Avalon 2001 has 95000 miles. Sometimes, when it stays idle for while, it gives me starting problems. I start the car and the pressure in the tachometer doesn’t go over 1. The car jumps a little and dies. To start the car, I have to start the ignition while pressing the accelerator. When I came to my mechanic, the car had no start up problems. He said that it could be anything, and all I can do is wait until my car dies. I can’t really do that because I travel a lot and would rather not be stranded in upstate New York on the road :-) I tried ignition clean up liquid but it didn’t help.
Thanks
Thanks,
Steve
Alek
Steve