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Comments
I trade you secrets. I hard wired my Valentine ONE by running a beige ribbon thin telephone wire through the sunvisor cloth, then under the trim for the front driver's side pillar. Goes through the firewall, directly connected to the battery. Came out great. Cannot see the wire nor the detector from outside.
Now, I just picked up a 2004 325ci. Don't really feel like messin with it yet, but how did you wire yours up and what model year of BMW did you do it on??
abfisch
Alternator is new......
Be sure those connections are electrically solid also, may have been left loose, or not cleaned and burnished, when the new alternator was installed.
It may also be that one or more of the three phases of diode rectification is open. Even a single phase left working would supply enough recharge capability except for night driving. But this latter case would likely only be noticeable, more pronounced, at idle.
Hope that helps.
http://www.radarbusters.com/support/maximize-detector/2.asp
(Sorry couldn't get this to hyperlink)
Rick
Very very good to read. Thanks very much for that article. I do have a couple of disagreements, real world that I would like to share. Nevertheless, the article was good to hear a counterpoint. Now, let me explain another point.
1. In the Valentine One manual, which I read in its entirety, at least for K and Ka band, the detector will capture the beam much earlier and completely on hills, or on-off ramps, where radar is used.
2. The difference of mounting in the middle of the windshield and the visor couldn't be more than 24 inches, tops.
3. Since purchasing the detector in 1998, I have gotten zero speeding tickets. That is not to say I will not get one in the future, nor was I never speeding but I have not got one.
4. That article could not be more wrong when it comes to stealth. Luckily, the 00-04 Avalon, not sure about the 05 and newer, the roofline starts to decline before the windshield. This leaves a "pocket" up in the roofline/headliner for the visor and detector. You could not see my detector in my car from more than 5 feet away. You could see one mounted on the window in plain view. So...his/her reasoning is very flawed when it comes to stealth. Plus, you would have to have the wire coming down from the middle of the window or dash. Mine is 95% concelled through the cloth of the visor and then down the inner panel of the A pillar.
5. Valetine One Detectors pick up radar in almost 360, especially focusing not only on the front but the back. If you mount the radar low on the windshield and you have the Avalon headrests, the back lens will not protect you. So, yet another reason that article has major flaws.
Obviously, no detector is 100% affective, and instant on Lasar or Ka band, with no one on the road but you, and it is time for a ticket. Other than those situations, this unit has been flawless and cost effective.
See the website for more details.
thanks again for the discussion.
abfisch
Thanks Tom
More likely there is a fault in the electrical wiring, healight switch, ignition switch, etc that would cause this to happen.
let's see, when the vehicle is running, power is being supplied by the alternator which maintains a charge on the battery. bad alternator, and eventually bad battery.
now then, many cars are controlled by a miriade of computer systems. a poor voltage regulation section on the alternator may result in blowing headlights. in addition voltage spikes might find there way over to the various computer systems, and as I'm sure you know, that may result in a computer system getting into a random state or actual damage to components. but yeah, you'd expect this to be an issue with the vehicle running. however, if the damage to the computer was done when the vehicle was running, it might exhibit itself later with the vehicle parked.
but back to the battery, if it discharges below some threshold because of a bad alternator, yeah, i can imagine a program running errant. ever have a computerized kid toy go crazy when the batteries run down past some point?
a marginal alternator isn't out of the question, so i thought the randomness and a failed (new) battery could be caused by a flakey alternator.
ok, maybe it's something else. maybe a bad main computer, or maybe some parasitic load drawing the battery down when the vehicle is not running.
i wonder how many more ideas will be generated by the readers of this forum to the problem...
ok, i'll add another, a key FOB in someone's pants pocket or purse or in the hands of a little one.
never did i claim to know the root cause, but the one i postulated is still a reasonable one given the limited information provided.
yes/no?
yes, your ideas are also possible. nowhere did the poster ask for an exhaustive listing of possibilities.
am i out of the dog house?
Makes me glad headlights on our vehicles are only controlled by a simple headlight switch and no day/night automatic sensors, etc. The only interlock is it warns me if I open the driver door with them still on.
Sometimes life is simpler when the driver alone controls the operation of the headlights!
On earlier Lexus versions if you stopped with the headlights on they would turn off automatically if you first turned off the ignition and then opened the drivers door. Open the drivers door first and the headlights would remain on forever....
You will need a wiring harness with a built in convertor, available online for 25 bucks or so and wired as follows:
There are 5 wires coming from the convertor that need to be wired to the car under the bulb access covers in the trunk,
Yellow goes to the green/yellow wire of the LEFT rear turn signal bulb
Green goes to the green/yellow wire of the RIGHT rear turn signal bulb
Brown goes to the solid green wire of the LEFT rear brake/tail light bulb
Red goes to the green/white wire also of the LEFT rear brake/tail light bulb
White goes to a ground, you can use the nut and stud under the LEFT cover
1. The blower motor makes a clicking sound and will not go to defrost any more. Sounds like the cheap teeth to the gear that turns the flap door is stripped. Another part I have to have someone replace requiring taking the dash apart. Not looking forward to this. Glad I have a third car.
2. I kinda over did the towing and headed up the bearing in one of the axles, so I would think that the estimates the manufacurer gives is generous, and I would recommend trailing below the limit, not at the limit anymore. I trailed 2000lbs(a ton) back and forth from the nursery, and a front driver this old, just could not really take it. The new ones have half the tow rating, whoever is towing is not towing too much.
3. I replaced the rear control arm bushing(had someone else do it) with quite remarkable results. I used Energy suspensions PU CAB set, and the rear of the car follows the front much more precisely without any transmission of more vibration. I run standard size 205/65-15 tires on the car. When things start getting worn, I would recommend these bushing over the OEM parts or the entire arms which sometimes they try to sell you.
abfisch
This time my car has problem again, three lights (check, vsc and vsc off)on when i am driving the car. this time i did the search from internet before i went to the car repair center. First i went to the toyota dealer service, i just want to know what's wrong with my car, but i was told the diagnosis will charge me $220, it is too expensive. i went back home then went to another car repair center, they charged me $35 for the trouble code. the trouble code is p0171. The DTC detecting condition said: when air-fuel ratio feedback is stable after engine warming up. fuel trim is considerably in error on rich side. The guy told me: the trouble areas are 1)open or short in A/F sensor(bank1,2 sensor1) circuit 2/A/F sensor(bank1,2 sensor 1). so i need to buy two sensors, the sensor price from toyota dealer is $207 each, he said if i repair the car all from him, the total charge is $405(the parts also from toyota dealer,he said he will give me $187 each). sign, i am really bad luck, the car always give me trouble, like a momey eater.
Now my questions are:
1)does three lights on, and trouble code is p0171, show the problem what the guy told me, and i need to replace two sensors? or maybe any other problems? like air indcution system problem, if so ,is it a serious problem?
2)if i don't repair it , will they hurt my car, and lead the big trouble later on?
3)should i go to toyota dealer's service or the place i mentioned above. i know from dealer the repair cost is more expensive than other personal repair center. but i think the toyota dealer is more trustable, they won't do bad thing on my car?is my thought true?
Thanks everybody here can help me, i am a female and i don't know about the car,i am the only driver in my family. so i really need your help me to tell me what i should do. thanks again.
jennifer
Bob
Bob
Bob
1, spurk plugs 2, wires, 3,air filter,4 gas filter,5 pcv valve 6,clean the trotle. i just let him replace the air filter, others i am not sure whether should do or not. i know most of techinicians let ur replace here and replace there.
here i need ur help:
1.what all these trouble code mean,p0172, p0120,p0121,p0715 and p1128?
2. how much is the TPS -truck control?
3. should i just follow them to do what they suggest me?
sign, my car didn't get repaired, but i already spend $80 for the two diagonosis.
your inputs is very important to me, thanks.
cars are supposed to run to a specific Fuel/Air ratio. the throttle is the valve that lets the engine suck more or less air comming from the air intake and filter.
your car's engine is essentially an air pump. it does it's work based on the compression and expansion of that air (in unison with fuel and spark) to mechanically move the pistons and apply torque to the drive train connected to the engine.
When the throttle valve commands more air, the vehicle needs to add more fuel via the injectors to keep the F/A ratio within certain limits, but also to add power.
for the trouble codes, why don't you google each one of them? you can do it.
Bob
All of the electrical systems work fine. I can turn on the headlights and play the radio etc., but when I turn on the ignition, everything dies. If I open the hood, then shut it again, the lights come back on. Sometimes, the car will start and be fine. Sometimes the dashboard doesn't work at all but the climate control and radio will work. It seems that there is some issue with the engine immobilizer. Could this be an issue with a fuse or is the compter going wonky?
Steve
I guess it's time to take it in. Thanks for your help.
My mother had this same problem with her 99 Avalon XLS. In Canada they came with automatic headlights. It says in her owners manual to turn the headlights to the off position, as to extend battery life, as the sensor can drain power when the car is off. On a side note in her case it turned to be that the keyfob is open the trunk after a very light press. (future Avalons require you to hold the trunk open option for several seconds) The light in the trunk is a simple loop from battery to trunk switch to trunk lamp to ground, with no light in the dash to indicate its opening. The lamps draws alot of power and caused her to run down 3 batterys before I trouble shot the problem. (we live 2000km apart) Installed an LED trunk light that drew less power and her problems were solved($12.00). Also if you find that that helps I can provide info to install an inline LED to the trunk lamp circuit so it lights up in the dash cluster to indicate the trunk is open.
Sorry for the winded reply,
Netwon
ABS is off.Trac on /off switch is O.K. What might make this light stay on?
My washer pump is not working. 86K on 02 car. Wipers work so it is not the fuse (25A). Pump located underneath car. Can someone go through how to do it yourself if they have before. If not, I will do it myself on Saturday. No way to access pump from engine bay. Toyota wanted $60, Advance Auto $33, and NAPA $26.
abfisch
Steve :shades:
Jay
Thxs.
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
Roland
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve
First of all, thank you very much for those instructions. I appreciate it enormously.. my only question to you is "does disabling the seat belt chime also disable the drivers side or any other air bag in the car? Thanks again.
Roland
Also, when someone sits in my passenger seat the light on the dash says "airbag on." You are welcome for the instructions, but I can't take credit I copied it from another posting.
2023 Mercedes EQE 350 4Matic / 2022 Ram 1500 Bighorn, Built to Serve