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Comments
Have you considered taking this PAC back to where you bought it, and dumping it back on their worries? If you have the PAC financed contact where you are making the payments and asking them to put some pressurer on the dealer?
A member of my family who retired from B of A and part of their job was helping pressure dealers to deal with it.
As for the bushings they too are wareable items. The parts and items you mention could be seen by some as abuse, by a lot of things happening.
How many miles have you put on from the last time you had your mounts replaced. I have a friend who is a service advisor at a dealer and I will ask him if you can tell me hooooow many miles you have put on.
Our PAC has 132,00 miles on our AWD PAC, and I expect to have more repairs because we drive a lot, up to 2,500 miles a month. It seems like we are putting on tires a lot but we are getting about 41,000 miles a set of tires, and that's real good for a vehicle that weighs almost 4,800 lbs.
(?! I am keenly interested in their definition of "facts.") So, just like that, NY State backs down and advises me that they will take no further action -- apparently based on Chrysler's decision to take no further action. Consumer Protection? While I'm at it I'd like their definition of "protection."
Meanwhile winter is coming, the Pacifica sits (won't pass inspection due to rust holes) and I'm driving an 11 year old P.T. Cruiser that performs on winter roads with all the stability of a drunk on ice skates.
Running out of options here.
If I could afford to, I would get rid of it. As is, there are holes in the subframe that prevent this car from passing inspection, or even being driven. The dealer from whom I bought it is out-of-state and tells me there's nothing they can do. I do not have a budget for a car payment at this time.
I am losing my home, under-employed, and have absolutely no room to add to monthly expenses. A car payment cannot happen until I find more work.
This will be an exercise in me pursuing every possible route that does not cost money, eventually meeting with lawyers to form a class action. After getting nowhere going up the chain with Chrysler, I have registered complaints with every so-called government or business watchdog group/agency that exists and have struck out (pending notification from the State Attorney General).
Anyway, lesson learned. But if it can be useful to someone else, lesson not wasted.
Will finish my "last resort" moves (Attorney General, writing all elected officials possible as well as press outlets, and filing for class action if a good firm will take the case), and then focusing on finding a deal on snow tires.
Seriously, even an inexpensive car is out of the question at the moment. But what you suggest makes perfect sense. Thank you.
REMOVAL
1) Disconnect negative battery cable.
2) Remove radiator close out panel.
3) Remove radiator core support.
4) Remove radiator cooling fans.
5) Remove the engine oil indicator.
NOTE: It is not necessary to recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant system to perform this procedure.
6) Remove the top air conditioning compressor bolts.
7) Raise and support the vehicle.
NOTE: It is not necessary to recover the refrigerant from the refrigerant system to perform this procedure.
8) Remove the lower air conditioning compressor mounting bolts and reposition the compressor with a suitable retaining strap.
9) Remove the air conditioning compressor bracket
10) Remove structural collar from oil pan and transmission housing.
11) Remove the inspection shield between the transmission and oil pan.
12) Drain engine oil. Now I wonder if something is out of alignment or a part like #10 not put on. If you took it to another dealer and told them that an oil change place stripped the pan bolt and replaced the pan and you have these noises and see if they can find it. I don't know if your service record would pop up on their screen or if they would have to look it up. I would hope they would check the car before they look it up. You could tell them you would like to wait for it and when they find the problem you would make an appointment for later in the week. If it was fixed at a Chrysler dealer any dealer should be able to re fix it. Dealers are like doctors they have each others back and most won't rat out the other. You could take it to a repair shop you trust and if they find the problem tell Chrysler what it is and if they would fix it or if the problem goes away after the repair shop fixes it would they pay
EDIT: Never mind, it appears your PDF has made it elsewhere on the internet. Here is the link for anyone just finding this issue.
kcram - Pickups/Wagons/Vans+Minivans Host
I just had to have the engine cradle replaced on my 2004 because of rust-through. I would love to have a copy of that letter. My dealer refused to do anything about any rust warranty.
Thanks
bmbernhard@fuse.net
1@ C/member 23032017 $679.00
4@ Isolator 17011017 $55.00 = $220.00
4@ Stop/Bmpr 17023025 $15.70 = $62.80
Total Parts (inclu misc parts) $981.80
Total Labor $820.00
Total job (inclu Tax, etc.) $1,875.71
I wrote to Chrysler and they agreed to reimburse me $1,400.00 for the repairs.
A mechanic said they could try fixing it by welding but why should I settle for that if Chrysler knows they have issues????
As for the "salt" area, I'm in Northern Kentucky (Greater Cincinnati) area. Some salt here but not a major salt area. Mine sure rusted through.
Good Luck.
bmbernhard@fuse.net
Loud clucking noise under drivers feet. Replaced all tie rod ends, struts, still there.
Sub framevery rusty but cannot see any holes. Maybe subframe bolts elongated ??
I will have subframe inspected very closely.