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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems

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Comments

  • cutehcuteh Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2003 grand am gt. i have had to use the 10 min reset like every two days. but now it dies while i am on the freeway. can anyone tell me what i did wrong? :mad:
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The two things are probably not related, as long as the ten minute resets are being done for the right reason, that being an activated security system due to some component failure in the Passlock system. That Passlock reset is not a repair by any means. Whatever component is causing it is still bad.
    When the car is running and the Passlock system becomes tripped it isn't supposed to shut down, it's supposed to just let you know by illuminating the security indicator in the cluster.
  • johnnieutahjohnnieutah Member Posts: 4
    Well, I drove the 1999 Buick Lesabre yesterday with no starting problems. Most of the time the security light stayed on while driving. It occasionally went out for a few minutes while driving. When I tried to start the car last night, no start, just a flashing security light. I left the key in the on position for well over a half hour last evening and the flashing security light stayed on, no start. Today at noon, the car still does not start, just flashing security light. I left the key in it at the on position this afternoon to see if it resets this time. By the way, where is the Body control module located? I do not have a shop manual for it. I post here because many more people talk about this issue on this form, almost no one on the Buick forum. :mad:
  • johnnieutahjohnnieutah Member Posts: 4
    Well, the dealer says that the ignition switch is bad. The wire apparently broke inside the tumbler and they say it is too thin to resolder. I HAD THE SAME PART replaced only 15 months ago elsewhere. I am not happy with this. Is this something I can easily replace myself? It will cost about $530 for parts/labor and $35 for each new key.
  • steammakersteammaker Member Posts: 3
    Every 2nd or 3rd time I tried to start car it failed and security light flashed for 10 mins. Took the Throttle Position Sensor off and gave it a quick little wipe on the brushes and inside. Security light still comes on once in a while but have not had a ten minute wait in several months now. Super cheap fix but I should get a new TPS installed.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The throttle position sensor has nothing to do with Passlock. The problem is still there, you've just been lucky that it doesn't occur when you're trying to start the car.
  • kristi448kristi448 Member Posts: 4
    I am so sick and tired of my piece of s*#t car it is a 2002 Grand Am, I just want to run it off a cliff. Its possessed, it only starts when it wants to. I have spent appx $700 in tows and when the car got to the shop every time and taken off the tow, the car would mysteriously start. I finally took it to the pontiac dealer for repair , and the dealer told me the same thing, "The ignitition switch is bad and needs to be replaced." I paid $350 for this damn thing to be replaced and it seemed to have fixed the issue for two weeks and then I was stranded again. After arguing with the dealer wanting my money back and the original ignition switch put back into my car, they tell me I musht have more issues with the car and they can repair it. Are you F*#@ing kidding me, they didn't even seem very confident on what was causing the problem. After months of my car not starting someone suggested that the cause of the problem is a wire shortage to the computer. So when it wouldn't start, we took the fuse box panel off and there are some wires that are visible, I flicked the wires and what do you know, it starts right up. So any time my car won't start I take that panel off and flick a wire and it starts up every time.
    On top of this problem, I have a water pump problem, which has been repalced but there is a loud abnoxious noise now and cant figure out what is causing the noise. Any suggestions???? My radio also locks up and I will go four to five days without a radio and then it will just finally turn back on. I can't believe that there are this many people with the same problems, and GM will not do a recall.

    Count me in on lawsuit against GM. :mad:
  • missdeidrebmissdeidreb Member Posts: 1
    I need help! I've had the same problem with my Grand Am, so we replaced the we replaced the tumbler, then it starts and shuts right down. It won't stay on longer than 2 seconds so we replaced the fuel ignition... but I do notice that the anti theft light blinks for the few short seconds its on before it shuts off. I need to know how to disable that so I can drive my piece of poop car! Please help! :mad:
  • jusinjusin Member Posts: 2
    Can some please have a look at these pictures and tell me what I am dealing with? I bought my car a year ago that was told that the remote start was removed since it was causing problems with the passlock. Fine, i did not need remote start. Remote start probably was fine but stupid dealer convinced previous owner to unplug and toss away when it was probably just a passlock prob.

    Over the past year I have had the passlock problems a few times. It is always when the weather is hot and humid. Never when it is cold.

    I had a look for the yellow wire and that is when i realized there was alot of wires and connectors that were probably left over from the remote start. There is a little box and I am guessing maybe it was left when the remote start was disconnected (bypass maybe?) There are three wires coming down that i am thinking might be an extension on the passlock wires (black, yellow and yellow/black). The wire go into this little box. Yellow is labeled as going to the ignition switch. The yellow/black goes to the BCM and the black is ground.

    Would cutting (or un-splicing) either the yellow or yellow/black be the same as cutting the yellow wire up top that requires the radio removal?

    What is this black box for? If it is a bypass, why does it not bypass? Has a few wires:
    - icn switch
    - bcn
    - ground
    - 12v power
    - starter
    - activation
    - bulb check
    - ign input

    Below are a few pics of this black box, wires coming down, unused connectors. If someone could have a look and tell me what this stuff is, i'd be so thankful.

    http://img380.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0121fl7.jpg

    http://img59.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0119pu3.jpg

    http://img59.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0118kf9.jpg

    http://img59.imageshack.us/my.php?image=img0117ys1.jpg
  • dawn14dawn14 Member Posts: 1
    I just recently had my car fixed for the same thing the second time. :cry: It was the passlock sensor and the ignition cylinder. I have a 2001 Grand Am. I wonder if any of you smoke? Strange question but I will tell you why.
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    You and Jusin appear to have similar problems, and I think I had the same ones, except that I finally had enough and cut in the toggle switch (problem solved permanently). Whether the contact connections are corroded, disturbed by humidity, or coated with tobacco smoke, the result is the same: The 7 milliamp current used to run the PassLock system is blocked enough to shut down the injectors (so the car dies for want of fuel). I'm in South Florida, and while many think we live in non-stop bugs and alligators, the fact is that it's pretty dry here during the winter, and during the winter, I had no problems. Come that summer humidity, and I was hung up every other week. I strongly urge people to cut out the system, especially on older cars (where corrosion, &c., is likely to be advanced). Jusin: It's the yellow wire to the ignition (DON'T cut the black-and-yellow). Again, recall: You MUST start the car first before cutting the wire, or it's curtains! If the car won't start, try jiggling the yellow "data" wire while you turn the ignition (mine started right up). See my previous instructions for the Radio Shack part to buy and how to install it into older Pontiacs. SINCE I CUT IN THE SWITCH, I HAVE NOT BEEN STRANDED ONCE! :shades: :shades: :shades: :shades:
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I'm pretty sure this problem is somewhat affected by humidity or a wet climate. It doesn't seem to happen as much out here in the dry southwest.
  • boilermaker3boilermaker3 Member Posts: 1
    I fixed the passlock problem on my 2000 Grand Am.
    I removed the entire ignition switch from the vehicle.
    Took it apart to get to the electrical contacts inside the plastic housing….it just snaps apart.
    The electrical contacts were very diry….so I cleaned them.
    I also noted that each set of contacts has a leaf-type spring that pushes on the rear contact. One spring was firmly crimped in place.
    The other was just sitting in place but looked like it had never been crimped…so I think it was not doing much good. I used a pair of pliers to crimp it tight.
    I reassembled it…and have not had a problem since.
    Previously, I had the passlock problem quit often…..particularly on damp days.
    This also solved my SERVICE VEHICLE SOON light problem. I had not bee able to find any burned-out bulbs….but cleaning the ignition switch solved it.
    I was also having problems with the dash lights not always coming on when the ignition key was turned…..in fact this was the problem that drove me to disassemble the ignition switch…..but it is now solved.
    I had previously looked at the BCM & PCM…but they were good…no dampness or corrosion.
    The engine also fires up much quicker.
  • steammakersteammaker Member Posts: 3
    Will have to try cleaning ignition switch as my SERVICE ENGINE SOON light has been on for looong time now. Have read about 25 different things here that cause the flashing security and most have something to do with the gas. I cleaned the TPS on my 2000 and have not had the problem since while before it timed out 2 out of 3 starts( or rather , attempts). One person says just dumb luck but possibly not. If the car will not start right away because of gas flow then perhaps computer thinks that it has refused to let car start and so cuts in with the passlock program and times out. Luck or not , it has been 4 months with no failed starts. Lot easier to try than cutting wires, putting in toggles, paying mechanics 100's of dollars and replacing part after part. Might have to do one of those things anyway but maybe try the simple stuff yourself first.
  • jusinjusin Member Posts: 2
    I unplugged the black box (as described in my post up a few) while the car was off and then the car would not start. I plugged it back in and then unplugged it while the car was running and it kept running. With the box unplugged, the security light is on all the time now and it starts so i think unplugging that bax was like cutting the yellow wire. Any reason to plug the box in a just cut the yellow wire? what is that box anyways? Is the black-yellow wire just a continuation on the yellow wire after leaving the box so it would not really matter which wire is removed?
  • panchy31panchy31 Member Posts: 3
    I solved the initial problem by leaving the key in the on position for ten minutes then starting the car. Only my security light stayed on. I tried to reset my lights, but this did not turn off the sec light. Then after about two weeks my door chime would not shut off. Now my chime stays on all the time, except for when the engine is running.

    I just want to have the security light off and the door chime be normal. Please help. I don't care what wire I have to cut or what I have to clean, but I don't want to spend any money on this. thank you so much.
  • panchy31panchy31 Member Posts: 3
    I solved the initial problem by leaving the key in the on position for ten minutes then starting the car. Only my security light stayed on. I tried to reset my lights, but this did not turn off the sec light. Then after about two weeks my door chime would not shut off. Now my chime stays on all the time, except for when the engine is running.

    I just want to have the security light off and the door chime be normal. Please help. I don't care what wire I have to cut or what I have to clean, but I don't want to spend any money on this. thank you so much.
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    As far as I know, there is no connection between the door alarm and the security system. Perhaps corrosion is the general problem, and it has attacked the two systems independently at once.

    As for the light staying on, come on, guys: Let's read the directions. We've piled so many e-mails in here that even I've forgotten precisely where they are -- somewhere back about page six or seven or so -- and I wrote some of them!

    As previously stated, when one cuts out the security system by (1) starting the car, (2) cutting the data wire, and (3) splicing in the toggle switch in the open (off) position, the anti-theft security light will come on and stay on -- that's your indicator that the anti-theft system is disabled. You can't have your cake and eat it too -- if you want to opt out of passlock, you must accept that you'll be driving around with the red light on. It's no big deal -- I ignore it other than to make certain I lock the car and pocket the keys when I park it. And who's going to steal a '97 Pontiac with dead air conditioning in a tropical town full of new Cadillacs and BMWs anyway?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    What!? You expect people to READ the instructions? Good luck with that.
  • dbock03dbock03 Member Posts: 2
    I've been dealing with this problem all summer (no start because of passlock) on my wifes 2003 grand am. To solve the problem we've been using the remote start to start the car. Then one day my wife started the car with the remote, turned the key to on, hit the brakes and the car died. She then had to wait 10 minutes with the key in on position to start the car. The dealer told me I needed a new ignition switch, so for $150 I bought the switch. I installed the switch and had to tweak the remote start as it wouldn't work with the new switch. Worked great for 2 weeks. Then again, crank but no start. Of course as this happens the battery in the remote start key chain also goes dead. Wait ten minutes to start car. Since my yellow passlock wire is cut to put the remote start bypass box in, I can't put a toggle switch in there. I then "hot wired" the bypass box with a toggle switch. If the car doesn't want to start I flip the switch with turns the bypass box on manually so the car should always start right? Wrong it acted up again and my switch wouldnt work. Luckily the remote start started the car. Does anybody have suggestions as to what to do now?

    I've been reading this forum all summer and have learned lots of things, I thank everyone who has contributed to this post.
  • ukjonesukjones Member Posts: 1
    I have an 03 Alero what did you do to get the car to start again. I just replaced the ignition lock cyclinder because the key would not turn. Now with the new cyclinder the key will turn but will not start and the security light is on. PLease help
    Jeremy
  • dbock03dbock03 Member Posts: 2
    You need to turn the key to the on position for 10 minutes so that the new cylinder can learn the key. When the security light stops flashing, you should be good to go. If not you may have to do that cycle 3 times. The dealership gets half an hour labor to do this process when all they do is turn the key 3 times.
  • panchy31panchy31 Member Posts: 3
    My car had the passlock system just once. I just want to disable the security light and have the chime stop dinging. By any means necessary. Unfortunately I have to sell the car. It is in great working order except for these two issues. I will explain to the buyer what to do if they encounter the passlock problem, and they can make the changes they feel necessary. I will give them all this info.

    At this time all I need to do is disable the chime - by any means available.

    and have the security light not on, again - any way I can.

    Please help me do this. I would be grateful.
  • frogloverfroglover Member Posts: 2
    Alright, I followed the directions to the t. Had the car running, had the yellow wire cut, had the toggle switch installed. The car worked fine all day yesturday, this morning I get in it, and the same thing, won't start. What else could this be? I am so frustrated. I have tried everything, and still, the car starts when it feels like it. Any other ideas?

    The ten minute thing no longer works either. I justwant to know if anyone has any other ideas.
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    Panchy: If you have a PassLock problem, the security light will pulsate on; if you route around the problem as I instruct, the security light will come on. If you pay Pontiac a few hundred dollars to have the PassLock system fixed, the light will stay off. Your choice.

    Froglover: The first thing to make certain is whether your toggle was left in the "on" position (contacts closed) when you quit for the day. If so, you in effect have reconnected the wire and re-enabled PassLock. This also happens if you turn the toggle on after you turn off the ignition. The toggle is used solely for those times when the battery has to be changed. Disconnecting the battery also can re-enable PassLock, in which case, if the data wire isn't reconnected, the car won't start at all (query: How's your battery? How are the cable connections?).

    Make certain you know which toggle position is "on," which "off." Since it's free, the next thing to try (if the car won't start at all) is to turn the toggle "on" (contacts closed) and try the "wait ten minutes" trick. If that works, WHILE THE ENGINE'S STILL RUNNING, turn the toggle off. You then should be good to go PROVIDED YOU DON'T AGAIN TURN THE TOGGLE ON.

    After that, you just have to track the problem down: Passlock working (or disengaged) -- check; battery connections clean -- check; battery holding a charge -- check; injectors working -- check; fuel pump working -- check; &c. Also, when was the last time you had the car tuned? Often, the coil package in a Pontiac has to be replaced at tune-up time. Until I did that, my car still wouldn't start either.
  • tonyawtonyaw Member Posts: 3
    I own a 2004 Pontiac Grand Am GT....And this is a continual problem, it will be fine for a while and then out of the blue it will start up again....The security light will come on and the next time you go to start your car it won't start and you have to wait the ten minutes with it on acc and when the security light quits flashing it will start. I think this is the most rediculous problem in the world I get emails almost every day from Edmonds from people with the exact same problem. There are to many of us with this problem for there not to be a recall. We all paid hard earned money for our cars, this is my fourth Grand Am ( Pontiac) purchase, but unless they step up it will definately be my last. There is no excuse to purchase a car and have to go thru this. What if there were an emergency and it happened ten minutes could mean life of death.....If any one has any suggestions on how to possibly get a petition or something together to make Pontiac responsible for this please let me know. They have told me that it would probably run around three hundred dollars to have this fixed. I dont have it and Im sure most of you don't and we shouldn't have to be responsible for a faulty part. :sick:
  • ksingewaldksingewald Member Posts: 2
    So I've been reading through these posts and have found them very helpful- thanks everyone. Anyway, about a week ago my security light came on and just stays on all the time (no flashing ever). Last night when I was driving home from work I noticed that when I stop at a red light my interior lights come on and when I accelerate they turn off. So I tried that 10 minute thing (we all know what that is) and everything worked like it was said to except afterward my car was completely dead. I had my husband jump it and it started right up again. I'm not sure what to do. I just made an appointment with my dealership and they said it's probably an alternator but I'm not sure I'm convinced- any advice? Would it be easy for me to figure out how to cut that yellow wire? Should I?
    Also, I'm moving across country NEXT FRIDAY and was planning on taking this car- should I be worried with this damned security light on? Please, someone help!

    :confuse:
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    You didn't say what year the car is or how old the battery is, but the battery or charging system would be one of the first places I would look for the problem based on your description. A weak battery can cause many abnormalities in the electrical system, and the fact that you had to jump start the car points to an electrical (low battery) problem.
  • ksingewaldksingewald Member Posts: 2
    Whoops-- it's a 2001. I will definitely check the battery out because I am not sure how old the battery is. Could the security light come on because of a battery issue? If I just take the bulb out of the reading lights will that at least buy me some time as far as those lights killing the battery?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    If the battery or charging system is bad then you really can't do anything but have the battery replaced or the charging system repaired. The reading lights put very little load on the battery as opposed to the other loads. Having a low battery can cause lots of unpredictable problems with all of the sub processors and control systems today. Batteries aren't hard to test, even without a load tester you can get a pretty good idea of the condition with just a voltmeter, ditto for the charging system.
  • bicycletroybicycletroy Member Posts: 6
    I have the security light on - not bliking. Tried the ten minute reset thing - nothing. Pulled off the PCM connectors - no corrosion. Removed the Ignition switch and reset the PCM per repair manual instructions - no luck. Can't get it started. Any suggestions by other that have experienced this?
  • tripower1tripower1 Member Posts: 25
    Few questions, when you put the key in the ignition and try to start it does the starter engage and the engine turn over or do you get nothing?
    Tell me what happens from the start.
  • tlou17tlou17 Member Posts: 1
    So I have a 2000 pontiac grand am. I had an after market alarm isntalled in 2000 when I got the car. Well the remotes for that stopped working about 2 years ago. Well long story short we uninstalled the alarm then the key would not turn so Monday I had my ignition changed and now the security light is on and when I turn the key all I hear is a click. I tried the relearn on yesterday and nothing after the 3 cycles still nothing anything you can suggest? Would cutting the yellow wire solve my problem? and also would my car start if jummped? I am so disgusted with this so any help is appreciated! :cry:
  • bicycletroybicycletroy Member Posts: 6
    I put the key in and turn on the ignition. The security light stays illumintated - not blinking. The car does turn over but it acts as if the gas has been shut off.
  • tripower1tripower1 Member Posts: 25
    Bicycletroy.
    When I had a passlock problem the light would be blinking when I tryed to start the car, the car wouldn't turn over, nothing happened. I turned it on and waited the ten min. when the light went out I started the car. When ever I was driving the car and the security light would come on I knew the next time I would have problems starting the car. Your problem doesn't sound like a passlock problem, it's more then likly a fuel pump thinking, find the fuel pump connecter at the fuel tank and run a wire from the battery to the power side of the pump and see if the pump comes on, if not then replace the pump. I'm not saying that you don't have a passlock problem, I'm saying your car isn't starting this time because of something other then passlock.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    I have read almost all of the posts in this thread. There is a lot of good information here, and there are a lot of posts about problems that seem to be just starting problems that are not associated with the Passlock(tm) system. I know that most of you don't want to read through 400 or so posts to find out how to fix (or bypass) the problems in your car when the "Security" light comes on, flashes on, or whatever else it does when your vehicle doesn't start. To save you from gleaning through the above posts, I have written a tutorial about the Passlock(tm) system, and how to fix it when it starts to malfunction. Since my tutorial is quite detailed and lengthly, I am placing it on my own website, rather than posting it directly here. You will find it at:
    Grand Am Passlock Security Fix
    Please.... everyone.... this tutorial will fix ONLY problems that have to do with malfunctions of the PASSLOCK(tm) security system on the Grand Am, and many Alero's. It WILL NOT fix problems with the fuel injectors, starter motor, battery, or other items which will also cause your car not to start. If you try to start your car, and the "Security" light comes on and flashes, then read my article. If that is not what is happening, don't bother.
    Dick Berger
    Retired GM Proving Ground Engineer
  • erpnbcerpnbc Member Posts: 4
    Help!!!! I have been reading posts for a few weeks and I am still at a loss. Here is my story. I bought a 2001 grand am last year, loved it!!!!!
    A few months ago it started becoming harder to start, then on occation when I was driving it would completley shut down. It has continually gotten worse!!! i have had my independant replace the Ignition module and some sensor (sorry, I will have to check my bill, cant remember what it was) only to be at a loss. Honestly, my mechanic seemed rather embarresed but could not find what the problem was. I then phoned GM and they told me it sounded like the pass lock and so I took it in. After 6 hours of being there (1.7 hours diagnostic) they were able to tell me that it may be the fuel pump or fuel pressure switch but would need more time. I was frusterated and said forget and went to pick up the car. After reading many posts on this website and many others, I decided to test fate and had my independant mechanic change the ignition cylinder which as we all know housed the passlock. STILL DIDN"T WORK!!!! However, a day after it was changed I tried to see if my remote starter would still work, it cranked but wouldn't catch. went to start my car and for the first time got the security light on my dashboard which I had to wait the 10 minutes to reset. Also since then when the car stalls the Service Engine, Battery and Oil lights now come on.
    My remote start used to be one of the ways I would be able to start it when it didn't want to start, but over the past month it would start it fine and then as soon as I went to put the car in reverse or drive it would die. Now the remote doesn't start but I really dont care about that. This car came with an aftermarket remote keyless entry and remote start, could this be potentially the problem? I am ready to sell the car but scared that it might be difficult considering it is so problematic, never know when this will happen. My biggest fear is the stalling, today it happened on a bridge, very frightning.

    I am at a loss. Should I consider the battery cables or battery or even spark plugs. What about the fuel filter, had it changed a few months back, could it possibly not be on right or letting air in, or can that happen. Or, has anyone ever experienced a bad connection somewhere else that I might want to consider. PLEASE HELP.
  • tripower1tripower1 Member Posts: 25
    OK, I'm not a Machanic for a living but love car's so if you don't want to read this it's OK. I Think your problem is a connector going to one of many sencers. First get some electrical spray cleaner and a tube of dieelectrica grease, pull every connector off each sencer one at a time and clean it, check it for a good connection and apply a dab of grease to it and re-connect it, make sure you get all the sencers connectors because you don't know which one it could be, MAP, TPI, Cam, Crank, distributor, temp, O2, power pack/ coil. and the one's I missed.
    I believe your problem is in one of these connectors that lose it's signal and shuts the engine off, your major ones are the cam, crank sencer, power pack/ coil connector, TPI or TPS. and Distributor, the distributor connection is what keeps your fuel pump going, with out its signal the fuel pump shuts off. Also have your independent check the connections to your PCM, ECM or what ever they want to call it.
    Keep us informed as to what you find
  • erpnbcerpnbc Member Posts: 4
    Thank you sooooo much! I appreciate any feedback. I have a friend who is a mechanic and after speaking with him last night he would like to see if he can offer any help, because I am taking a huge loss if I sell it. I think I will sell it regardless but at least need to know what is wrong with it to give info to new owner if it can sell. I have thought about cleaning connections, just not sure where they all would be, thats where my friend would come in.

    It really sucks because this was my first sporty car purchase and I love it, but I am so scared to keep it even if I can fix it as it seems to have so many issues that arise with this car! :confuse:
    Thank you for your message.
  • tripower1tripower1 Member Posts: 25
    The more electrical they put on a car the more problems you get. I've got a friend that was fighting a stalling problem on his Dodge, the computer said O2 sencer but after a year he found his problem by accident, it was the connector on his power pack and now his car runs great. He was just lucky.
    Let us know what you find out.
  • bicycletroybicycletroy Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for the advice. I'll give it a shot. Get this - I took it to an independant mechanic. They replaced the lock cyclinder which got rid of the security light. It started up so I brought it home. The next day - it doesn't start. Acts just as it did when I took it in. GRRRRRR.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Changing the lock cylinder won't do anything to the typical Passlock problem - the Hall effect sensor is on the ignition switch, not part of the lock cylinder. Go back and read post 394 and look at the link supplied. Very good info and permanent repair without any major work. Passlock is a bit more complicated than presented, but the technical operation really isn't important for the bypass shown.
  • bicycletroybicycletroy Member Posts: 6
    When you pull out the lock cylinder there is a Integrated Circuit chip connected to it with 3 wires including the infamous "yellow" wire. Isn't this the Hall effect sensor?
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    You must be talking about the ignition switch then. The lock cylinder is the center part that the key goes into that simply turns inside the switch. It's not an IC by the way, it's a simple magnetic switch. If you haven't done so go look at post 394.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    According to the shop manual, when your SECUTITY light is on solid (not blinking), it indicates that something has gone wrong with your security system WHILE YOUR CAR WAS RUNNING, and the Body Control Module has bypassed the security system. In this case, the security system is no longer working, and therefore, it is NOT the cause of your engine not running. I'm not a mechanic, I'm an Electronics Engineer, so I can't diagnose your problem, but the indication is that you have something other that the security system wrong with your car. If you look back to several previous posts, you will see that when you cut the yellow wire to solve the SECURITY problem, your car will run, but the SECURITY light will be on solid.
    Unfortunately for you, there is more wrong with your car than the security system, possibly bad ignition system, bad injectors, or a bad Body Control Module.
    You could try the modification suggested in Post #394, which would certainly eliminate the security system from your possible culprits, but that leaves several other possible causes for your problem, and tripower1 is likely right about it not getting fuel.
    Dick B.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    By the way, your link in post 394 is very good.
  • raycorriraycorri Member Posts: 13
    I thought you guys would find this interesting. Apparently, the makers of these bypass modules have finally started marketing these things as a means of bypassing the passlock without adding the remote starter. (And actually providing the instructions.) It's about time someone has broken the silence in some sort of industry.

    http://www.passlock2.com/
  • hokiemohokiemo Member Posts: 13
    I've read several hundred of these 400 plus replies in this thread along with a hundred or more in several other automotive forums. It's all a painful jumble in my head, but I think I want to go the route mentioned by Ray Corri in post #405....get some sort of learning module used by a remote starter company like Passlock2 or DEI Viper PLJX(I think that's the alphabet soup of a name) The Passlock2 website only mentions the 2000 Impala and not my 2002. I see that there is a Passlock, a Passlock I and a Passlock II and also something called Passkey. I went to the link in post #394 and compared its description of how the Passlock system can be bypassed with what my owner's manual says. His owner's manual gives a specific timeframe whereas my manual for the 2002 Impala says, "If the engine stalls and the SECURITY message flashes, wait until the light stops flashing before trying to restart the engine." No ten minute time frame is mentioned. Anyway, bottom line, I'm trying to determine what version of Passlock, Passkey, or whatever is used on my 2002 Impala(3400 V6 E Vin code) so that I can order the right type of bypass module. I hope people will start posting reviews of whatever remote starter or bypass module they use and how it worked for them...how specific were the instructions...do you need to know how to solder, read a VOM, etc etc.
  • hokiemohokiemo Member Posts: 13
    Does anyone know of a reputable mechanic or auto place in the Hampton Roads(Newport News, Hampton, Yorktown, Norfolk, Va Beach, Chesapeake, Portsmouth, etc) area who installs remote starter kits? If I buy a remoter starter kit(aka bypass module) I won't be physically able to install it myself. I don't have the directions included with the kits so I don't know if your average shadetree mechanic can handle this or if it is best left to someone who works with car/audio installation and the like. I have tried Googling Passlock along with my area and only get hits on car dealers selling used cars who are touting the Passlock as a if it were a good thing instead of a nightmare.

    Thanks for any and all advice and information in advance to this post and my previous one where I posted before signing my name.

    Danny Moses
    Yorktown, VA
    2002 Impala Security light came on while running for the first time today...and I know what is in my future and am trying to be proactive for once.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Also since then when the car stalls the Service Engine, Battery and Oil lights now come on.

    It is normal for the Service Engine, Battery, and Oil Lights to come on when the vehicle stalls. It happens every time I stall mine by letting the clutch out too fast.
    Dick
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