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Pontiac Grand Am Security Passlock Problems

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Comments

  • nick2006matrixnick2006matrix Member Posts: 42
    I have the Valet 562t remote starter. Valet is made by Directed Electronics Inc. makes Valet as well as some other brands. The 562t is a common and inexpensive system. The bypass is sold separately along with some relays you may need depending on the application. I bought the car used not knowing it had the system installed. When I had some work done on the car the mechanic reconnected the battery and the car started up on its own. I was able to pick up a replacement remote on ebay and got it working very inexpensively.
  • tommyo1tommyo1 Member Posts: 36
    Just thought I'd drop in to say hi... My status here is the same; the security light is still illuminated steady, but the car starts & runs fine. So I'm sitting tight and will do some more troubleshooting when it warms up a bit... too cold here in Massachusetts right now.
    I also want to somehow find out & confirm exactly what year BCM's are interchangeable with my 2000 Grand Am. I can't find that out anywhere, darn it.....
    I'd sure like to know what year BCM's (if any) are interchangeable in case I go to a junkyard looking for a BCM. I doubt the yard guy would know that...... so I'd really like to find that out somehow.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Very early in this thread, someone described how to cut the yellow wire and install a switch inline so that it could be used to disable the Passlock system. The resistor fix is considerably cheaper than buying a remote start system, or even just the bypass module. If you install a bypass module you will have to do just as much work as installing the resistor fix, and you will not get any more usefulness out of it. If you are afraid to do the resistor mod on the wires at the BCM, do them at the ignition switch end. It's only a matter of being able to get to the wires more easily that made me do it near the BCM. Now that I have seen several more wiring diagrams, I know that the procedure I described on my website (post 394 or so) only applies to some vehicles, but if you solder in the resistor at the ingition switch end of the circuit, it will likely apply to just about every type of vehicle that uses Passlock II.
  • tommyo1tommyo1 Member Posts: 36
    Hi Dick... And to add, I was surprised when I took out the glovebox to see the easy access to the BCM & wires. I did my solder work from that large opening, instead of laying on my back on the floor. Once that glovebox is removed, you'll have easy access to the BCM & wires....

    I took a photo of my BCM; I wanted to make sure I had accurate part & model numbers from it in case I end up going to a junkyard for a replacement. The main number is... 09360179; then the number 870179RB01291259.
    That is the model BCM in my 2000 GT1. I would like to know if that particular one is interchangeable with a 2001, or 2002.... just in case the junkyard doesn't have a 2000 in the yard.. But I can't find that info anywhere....

    When it gets a bit warmer here, I'll continue my troubleshooting some more. And if worst comes to worst, I'll simply put a piece of black electrician's tape over that illuminated security light and say the heck with it. The car runs like a champ; runs & starts fine... But it sure does bug me why that darn light is on, lol..
  • dcheiteldcheitel Member Posts: 11
    Heres a question that I havent seen answered. Lets say one has the remote start installed with the appropriate bypass. If when trying to start the car using the normal key method and the security light is flashing, if then trying to use your remote starter will it work or will you have to wait the 12 minute in order to use either the key or remote start once you have blinking security scenario?
  • hokiemohokiemo Member Posts: 13
    This is by no means the gospel-truth answer, but I BELIEVE that you will have to wait the 10 minutes or so. If your security light is flashing, it's because of a message that the Body Control Module received that it didn't like(usually B2958 and/or B2960). I don't THINK that the remote start mechanism completely bypasses the BCM...just the Passlock portion of it.

    For the scenario you described to occur, ie having a flashing security light, the Passlock portion of your system has to have failed...most likely in the BCM. Either that or the DEI(or other brand) bypass module has failed and is sending a faulty signal to the BCM, which in turn causes the security light to begin blinking.
    .
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Tommy,
    Here is all the text on my BCM
    ______________________________________
    DELPHI AUTOMOTIVE SYSTEMS
    Assembled in Mexico
    Tested to comply
    With FCC Standards X

    This device complies with
    RSS-210 of Industry Canada
    Canada: 3432101848A
    X130 22684971


    *874971RA13470610*
    ______________________________________________
    And I just figured out how to post a photo on this forum, so here is the label on the bottom of my Body Control Module...
    image

    Looks like our two BCMs are a different model. My vehicle is a 2002 Grand Am SE, 2.2L
    Anyone else have this information about their BCM, we hope you will post it.
    Dick B.
  • tommyo1tommyo1 Member Posts: 36
    Yup.. I guess we have different models. Come springtime, I'll probably head up to the local junkyard and see if I can find one in a 2000 Grand Am. I guess it will be a crapshoot, so to say.... as I wont know if a replacement will even correct the problem.
    By any chance would you happen to know if having a illuminated security light (hidden & covered with black tape) will throw any trouble code and be a problem for the yearly car inspection? If there would be no trouble code, then I might even be best to just cover up that light and hope for the best...

    I've been driving the car for a few months now with that light constantly on, but the car starts & runs fine.... As it is right now, that light is just a "cosmetic nuisance" right now, lol...

    Oh boy oh boy... why did G.M. make this darn passlock thing so complicated ???!!!???
  • imidazol97imidazol97 Member Posts: 27,147
    Re: Alldata

    Check with your local library to see if they have AllData available on their library computers. Our local library has a huge number of databases available online to use on your computer at home, however AllData is available at the library terminals because of the fee structure AllData charges.

    But I took my USB memory stick and floppy disk and went to the library, looked at what I wanted for another car for which Idon't have the factory service manual, and saved the web pages onto the USB memory. I saved some individual graphics as pictures. You also can print the pages for a fee at libraries.

    Our county library shares with libraries in counties surrounding us. So check with your library and maybe even make a drive to a nearby larger library to access AllData.

    2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,

  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    Hi all - i'm new to the site but i've read the entire discussion.. My car is the same as Dicks - a 2002 Grand Am SE , 2.2L. I ended up with the usual security light coming on occasionally - do the reset etc etc. . I'm so lucky to have found this site and all the good info supplied .(i just wish some of the people would actually read before posting) I'm thinkin this discussion saved me some big bucks . I didn't mess with taking the vehicle to mechanics "AT ALL" - just went right to Dicks resistor fix . Unfortunately it did not work - trust me i followed the procedure correctly. No big deal though i just put everything back where it was and cut the yellow wire behind the radio and spliced in a toggle if ever needed .A little black tape over the "constant on" security light & All good so far . Thanks all
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Just a little update.
    A friend who still works for GM told me a few facts about the Passlock system and the "Security" light. It seems that in most cases where the SECURITY light is illuminated solid, but the car still runs. the only fix is replacing the BCM. Let me repeat that for the people who don't pay much attention...
    When the SECURITY light is on and The vehicle still runs the most common cause of the problem is The Body Control Module
    This probably explains Tommy01's problem.
    Dick
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    Just curious - do all later model GM , Pontiacs have this passlock system ? or did they change or fix it somewhere along the line ? I really don't think i'd buy another G.M. just for the passlock issues .
  • tommyo1tommyo1 Member Posts: 36
    Hello Dick and everyone else. It's been a couple more months and my light is still illuminated steady, and the car starts & runs fine. As soon as the weather warms up a bit here I guess I'll have to start thinking about replacing the BCM module. I guess my only source of one is a junkyard. I'm not sure if G.M. sells these things and how much they would cost. Of course the junkyard BCM would be like throwing dice; no idea if the darn thing would be any good.
    Does anyone happen to know if any trouble codes are thrown / stored when a BCM acts up like this? My yearly state inspection doesn't actually come up till June, but I'd really like to know about whether or not codes are thrown....

    So that's an update here.... The light is still on, but the car runs fine...
  • hokiemohokiemo Member Posts: 13
    Tommy, I believe if you have the security light burning constantly your BCM is going to display one or two trouble codes. One is B2958 Data open/short to battery and the other is B2960 Passlock data at cylinder is incorrect.

    I had both messages on my 2002 Impala's BCM. To summarize, I had the security light come on while driving around Labor Day weekend and then three months later the dreaded no start condition with the blinking security light. The mechanic I took it to replaced the BCM, but I never got a good explanation as to why. It set me back $600 parts and labor. The BCM was a very old one(model #GMAB166) which a technical service bulletin said was susceptible...any BCM prior to GMAN169 does not have the hardware modification that prevents the BCM from throwing out a false-positive code. I wasn't pleased when I found out the BCM had been replaced, but at least I know the BCM shouldn't be the culprit in the future. My car has started every time I've tried in the past month, but since the problem was so intermittent before I don't know if I will ever feel truly comfortable.

    One question for everyone who has a recent GM vehicle. I have noticed that about 1/3 of the time when I turn the ignition off, the security light flashes for the briefest of moments on the dashboard's message center. I fear that the key switch or key cylinder may be going bad and could cause a security/no start problem for me in the future. Anyway, does anyone ever notice the security light flashing for a brief instant when they turn the ignition off?

    One other question, would the security light constantly illuminated be a cause for a car not to pass a state inspection? The reason I ask is that if the car ever fails to start for me I'm probably going to get somebody to cut the yellow wire for me(after first getting the car started at some point), but I'm reluctant to go this route if a constant security light illuminated would cause the car to fail a state inspection.

    Danny in Yorktown, VA
  • tommyo1tommyo1 Member Posts: 36
    Hi Danny... Good questions. The cylinder area is one thing I haven't looked at yet; I'll do that as soon as it warms up a bit. Still winter here in Massachusetts and I don't have a carport where I could park it out of the weather elements. But that is one area I will look over closely.

    I sure hope there is not any code(s) come June when my inspection comes up.... Of course I hope to somehow fix this problem by then though...

    I don't believe I get that brief blink that you get; that's a new one to me... but I'll look closely next time I take the car out somewhere. I don't think I get it though....

    If I cannot solve this come springtime, I might have to get a replacement BCM. But there again, there's no telling if that would solve this mess, and also there's a question if a BCM at a junkyard would even work. There's a website somewhere; gmpartsdirect.com (I think..) and you can buy GM parts there. But... you need the darn official GM part number to search out the info. For some reason my model number came back "nothing found" !!! This passlock purgatory stuff is giving me more gray hairs; just what I need !!!!
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    not sure how any security issues or BCM codes could affect an inspection . Isn't an inspection more for safety & enviromental issues ? Surely you could do an online search to see exactly what they check for your State or Province .
  • tommyo1tommyo1 Member Posts: 36
    No, you didn't quite understand... or else I didn't say it clearly enough. I am well aware of Massachusetts state inspection procedures, having lived here all my life and driving here for over 45 years...

    What I meant is I was wondering if the passlock problem can throw a certain code number that could pertain to OTHER possibilities other than the passlock itself. For example open ground fault, or some other situation that could be considered a safety issue.

    If a trouble code pops up, it's all via computer, so to say... My bringing up "yeah, but it's only a passlock problem" would mean tiddly-winks to a computer. The tech guy has no leeway and cannot be swayed. The computer either passes you, or you fail. There is NO amount of any verbal explaining by me to the tech guy that would help; all meaningless.. It's a pass or fail, period.

    Of course I'm hoping that I am worrying needlessly and no code is thrown for a passlock problem; I don't need the headaches of getting a rejection sticker and $$$$$ repairs that must be done quickly in order to get my inspection sticker. Hopefully when it gets a bit warmer I can see if my problem is in the area of the ignition; I haven't yet explored there. It might be worth me looking there because the Pontiac place did install a new cylinder for me last year... also cut me new keys too. It might be worth it to see if the mechanic maybe bumpped a wire loose. Probably a longshot, but I do want to check that area out...

    I want to wait a bit for warmer weather; I have a bad spine and it kills me to have to lay on the floor and tinker around with the BCM and wiring. If my doctor saw me, I'd get a boot in the fanny and told I should know better....
  • breynomarbreynomar Member Posts: 2
    OK! I joined this blog hoping have any answers that could help me! Please! :cry:

    Last October I made a copy of my key just in case, my aunt used it and the secury light got on, she turn off the car and turn the key around and started the car with no problems. ;)

    Since that my car had some starting problems, I chaged the ignition and the mechanic view for other problems about battery, etc. And was all right! :surprise:

    Suddenly the starting problems came back! About two weeks ago I drove to my work fine, when I got off the car wouldn't start. You can imagine how I felt, after 45 minutes of traying and no other ideas, I put my car in Neutral and started with no problem. I drop my car to the mechanic and they didn't found nothing because the car started with no problems! (I left my car with them almost 5 days and nothing). :S

    So last Saturday was happy on my day off and what I got? Yes starting problems again! The first time I replay using the same method on Neutral, I stopped in my second place and had the same problem, and did it again on the third one! So I realize that it was the perfect time to drop it with the mechanic so they can experience the same problem and find out what is wrong with my car, but no success, it's Monday now and they haven't got any starting problems at all.

    Any ideas? :confuse: Help needed! :sick:
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    breynomar - you don't mention if anything is going on with your security light when you're having these starting problems . If your security light is on or flashing it would probably be a security /passlock issue .If nothing going on with the light then you're probably in the wrong forum (discussion). ;)
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    You are right, malbols. This is the wrong forum for breynomar.
    While I'm here, I would like to thank tommy01 for keeping us up to date on how his "constant on" security light problem is going. This is all helpful information.
    Also, I guess I would like to re-state that the resistor fix will cure Only one of the many possible causes of the passlock (security light)problems. Now, it's beginning to look like a constant ON security light is not really much of a worry. Looks like as long as the car keeps running, you can ignore the constant security light. I would like to know if there are any instances out there that contradicts that statement.???
    Dick
  • jayaveryjayavery Member Posts: 4
    Ok. I am new. My first post. My 2001 Chevy Tahoe 120,000 Miles. 3 days ago, started to leave work and about 2 miles down the road the "security light" comes on and stays solid till I get to work. About 25 miles. Shut it off and re-start, no light. Yesterday afternoon, I leave work, start it and as I leave my parking lot, the light comes on steady again. Get home and shut if off. Re-start and is fine again. There is no change in how it runs. I changed keys between the first incident and the 2nd thinking the one key was just worn out. Stopped by an Auto repair shop yesterday while light was on and they said had 1 Tahoe do this before and it took 6 months to diagnose between them and the dealer. Was told to tell the dealer to look at the "Ignition Switch System" Called Dealer today; of course you can't tell them what to look at there are just going to instert there gadget and see what code kicks out. I do not want to drive down the road and have it die as I have been warned. I am hoping that my extended warranty will cover this. Any thoughts anyone?????
  • seeingstarsseeingstars Member Posts: 4
    please someone help me i have a 2003 grand am the security light comes on from time to time and i do have to do the ten min reset every once in a while my main prob is tonight when i was coming home my car made a buzzing sound and stalled it would not start i waited ten min or so and it started just fine does that have something to do with that nasty pass lock thing other then that the car is fine had it in the shop for days to see if it would not start for them as we all no it started just fine for them this is the only car i have and i depend on it for my 2 kids to get to and from school please help me i am scared to drive and limited on $$$
  • nobullchitbidsnobullchitbids Member Posts: 53
    My security light has not gone out since I cut in the toggle and turned the system off a couple of years ago. The light should stay on solidly after this simple, five-dollar fix.
  • malbolsmalbols Member Posts: 19
    seeingstars - you need someone - anyone , perhaps a mechanic friend to cut the yellow wire when running & splice in a toggle switch . It tells you how with pics in these forums .
  • seeingstarsseeingstars Member Posts: 4
    I talked to my mechanic he said that the pass lock would not shut off the car he has no idea he said bring it in on Monday please if someone knows why it would stall out in mid drive things that can be looked at as i said the car runs fine it has a brand new battery and brand new fuel pump they were put in in December when the car wasnt starting
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    The type of symptoms you describe are usually the first indication that something in the passlock system is failing. It's hard to say for sure without diagnosis, but usually it's the Hall effect sensor (magnetic switch) in the ignition switch.
  • seeingstarsseeingstars Member Posts: 4
    Ok that is something to look into is that hard to check nothing comes up when they do that diagnostic on it do you no if it is expensive to fix. now today I had someone drive it all day about 30 miles @different speeds he stopped @ the store every thing worked perfect.
  • crohdecrohde Member Posts: 2
    Just wanted to let you know I worked on a 2006 grand am this morning March 6th with a remote starter and that did not start the vehicle at all.
  • crohdecrohde Member Posts: 2
    Just from my experience today a remoute starter DOES NOT WORK to by pass the security. I work on a 2006 grand am this morning with this starting issue. The only thing I could do to start the vehicle was to reset the security.
  • kristindn04kristindn04 Member Posts: 4
    Cut the yellow wire behind the radio. I followed the pictures and took apart the ignition cover and took out the radio myself. You just need to find the right socket wrench to take it apart and may need someone to help you pull/hold the wires so you can find the right one to cut. Eventually my 10 min wait time grew to 1 hour. I did not like playing the game of will I get to start my car today. I still hate :lemon: my car and of course it has other issues now and once I get it started the first place I am driving it is to the dealer (non-pontiac) to trade it in.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Jayavery, you are in a unique position to help us all. Since you have an extended warranty, take your Tahoe in to the dealer and insist that they fix it, and make sure they write down on the service record, what they replaced to fix it. Then if you have the problem again, your extended warranty should cover it, since you brought it in for the fix, but it wasn't fixed.
    Make sure they check:
    1. The Ignition cylinder
    2. The BCM (or whatever they call it on a truck)
    3. The wiring between the BCM and the ignition cylinder
    4. The PCM

    If their FIX does not involve one of those four items, i would suspect they didn't actually fix it, and don't accept that they couldn't duplicate the problem. If they do that, take it back in over and over again until they actually do something.
    Dick
  • dawn23dawn23 Member Posts: 1
    I also have a 1999 Pontaic Grand Am SE, and we've had the same problems. Nice to know it was factory defects! I have had trouble with my security system for about a year. Replaced the alternator and brakes last year and just replaced the water pump a few days ago. I am seeing on here that cutting the yellow wire works, and also that replacing the Hall Sensor works, but haven't seen any feedback on whether or not replacing the sensor has helped anyone. Have you found a solution? Also, according to the manual you can shut the system off just like shutting off the change oil light. I haven't tried it yet, but if you have a manual you might give that a shot. There's directions in it.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    Can you be more specific about "shut the system off just like shutting off the oil change light"? That's a new one for me. Do you mean the ignition on 10 minute reset procedure?
    The hall effect sensor is the most common repair, but many don't want ot pay for it so they use one of the workarounds.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Dawn,
    I can't find that in my 2002 Grand Am Manual. How many miles on your 1999 Grand Am? I would consider replacing the alternator and brakes normal wear and tear, and it's not unusual for a water pump to go out after 100k miles, especially if you live in a warm climate.
    The work-around using a resistor in place of the hall sensor is the best solution for the 10 minute wait problem. If your light is on constantly, but your car runs, ignore it. After all, you don't even get any kind of security system in the cheap japanese cars.
  • nick2006matrixnick2006matrix Member Posts: 42
    Now that Spring has officially arrived we can start hunting in the junkyards for the parts we need, mainly BCM's. Are we ready to make any conclusions on passlock problems based on the long-term behavior of our cars yet? I have tried to compile a "Passlock for Dummies" explanation. Please let me know if these conclusions are accurate.
    1. Security light on steady indicates that the passlock system is not provinding the protection it was designed to perform in our cars. The resistor fix or the toggle switch installation is not applicable for this condition. Possible cause is a bad BCM.

    2. Blinking security light means passlock has detected an unauthorized attempt or false indication of an unauthorized attempt to start the car (bad key, theft attempt, bad key cylinder, etc). Cutting the yellow wire while car is running and installing a toggle will bypass the passlock system. If the battery dies close the switch and do a 10 minute wait, open the switch after car starts and be on your way. Security light will remain on at all times.

    3. Doing the resistor installation if the security light is blinking will basically do the same as the toggle installation but the security light will not be lit.
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Nick2006matrix,
    That's a pretty good summary, and I don't see anything missing other than extraordinary things, like broken wire between Ignition switch and BCM, Corroded ground connections (unlikely but possible), loss of data link between BCM and PCM.
    Your list will probably cover more than 99% of the passlock problems.
    Let me just advise everyone that a shop manual is a necessity when troubleshooting your vehicle. There are also online subscriptions to manuals mentioned earlier in this thread that are less expensive than a printed manual, so there is no excuse to not have one for your car. They will save you $$$$.
    Dick.
  • markjr54markjr54 Member Posts: 7
    two fridays ago when i put the key in ,it didn't feel right so i pulled it out and there was gunk on the key so i cleaned it off ,put it back in, and started the car. it stayed on for about two minutes, just long enough to pull out into 5:00 traffic
    and it just quit. it was a dangerous situation but i got it off the road .ONLY three
    people blew thier horns and flipped me the bird. the security light was solid.
    i had it towed home and have been screwing with it ever since. i put a used lock
    cylinder in and the security light was flashing. i did the 12 min. proceedure and the light went off but still no start. i then took the original lock to the locksmith and had it repaired and had two new keys made and put it back in. the light was flashing so i did the 12 minute proceedure again. NO START . the fuel pump sounds like it is working. there is no security light and my scanner is not showing any codes.
    please help if you fine people have any other ideas. this forum is great, THANKS

    markjr54
  • lovemygrandamlovemygrandam Member Posts: 330
    Jayavery, Regarding your 2001 Chevy Tahoe.
    By all means, take your vehicle to the dealer and insist that they make the repairs under the extended warranty. This is NOT something that they should be able to blame on normal wear and tear, and so your extended warranty should cover it. My guess is that your problem lies in the ignition cylinder, and that replacing the cylinder should cure the problem.
    When you bring your vehicle in, bring along a written description, just as you have described it here on the forum, and MAKE SURE they write it out on the service request. This is so you have documentation that you had this problem during the extended warranty period, so if they don't fix it, you can bring it back later... even after the warranty period is over.... and demand that they take another look.
    Good luck. You may have to argue with them to get them to write out your trouble report in full, but be persistent, and let us know the results.
    Dick
  • nick2006matrixnick2006matrix Member Posts: 42
    This is the first time I have heard about a passlock failure causing a car to stop running. Once the lock was repaired and the 12 min. procedure made the flashing light go out the passlock problem should be solved. I would trouble-shoot the problem from a general no start situation. Please post back your findings.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I guess anything is possible, but passlock isn't supposed to shut the engine down while it's running if it detects a problem, only turn the light on solid. From markjr54's description though, it sounds like something else to me, plus changing the lock cylinder won't help, the hall effect sensor is in the ignition switch, not the cylinder. I think I would look at the control module next.
  • hokiemohokiemo Member Posts: 13
    I don't believe the passlock problem should cause the engine to shut off either, burdawg. An ex-GM mechanic replaced my body control module which was an early problem-riddled version, and said it wasn't so much because it was an early version but that something about the security light illuminating causes the BCM to crap out somehow. I wasn't quite sure if I believed him, but I haven't had a security issue in almost 3 months, so perhaps the BCM does become damaged in some way during a passlock issue.
  • cmelficmelfi Member Posts: 3
    hello to all,
    so, i got a 2002 grand am gt. the first time it wouldnt start it took about 2.5 hours to reset the system then it started right up several times. next day off to work i went...at lunch i drove to get food, again no problems...went to leave work after my shift and of course does'nt start...tried the unhook the battery thing, the shift to on posittion thing, 30 min passed ,2 hrs passed, 4 hours, i'm kinda heated...i've only had this car 4 days now, still owe 10g's on it...go home... have my neighbor take me back to it a couple hours later, and it started up like its brand new, i dont get it.
    the next day i was gonna go buy the 2.2k resister the do the mod under the glove box...car started right up in the morning, got about 5 blocks down the road and the car stalls out, like the security just kicked in...installed the resister under the glove box right outside the BCM...tried the 10 min wait to reset the system to the new value of the resister, still didnt start...today i'm having it toed to the lot where i bought it..dude said he would fix it for me but after reading all the different posts the past couple days i wanna cut that freakin wire as soon as i get it back and put the toggle switch in...i figure they will just get it started and tell me they fixed it anyway, i'll end up having to deal with this "issue" in the future, so ill just take care of it anyway, sooner than later. i.e "while i can acually get it started... my security light has never blinked in the ON position, it was allways illuminated, not blinking in the on position. it has to be something with the engine not getting fuel. everything else checks out, not the battery, alternator is fine , the chambers are getting a spark, just no fuel to lite em up. gotta be the passlock II system. i dont want the automatic start, i just want it to start, i could care less about a light allways on. this sucks soo bad, i know its a 2002 but its the nicest car i've ever had and the only one my wife has ever liked..then this, i've spent more time trying to fix it and sitting in it than i have driving it...i'm haglad that this forum is hear and i found it...thanks to you all for posting , much respect
  • jayaveryjayavery Member Posts: 4
    To "Lovemygrandam" I took a 2 hour trip to my sisters this weekend but took one of my other vehicles instead of my Tahoe. I was getting nervous about the passlock system as last week the light started to come on more and more. My husband drove it to the gas station while I was away and drove it around trying to get the light to come on. He is convinced one of the keys is wore out so he used what he thought was the better key. I told him I am not convinced its a key issue. This morning to go to work I used the key he feels his better. Guess what!!!??? NO START!! The motor turns but dies immediatley. I left the key on for the 10 min "re-lean" time and tried again. NOTHING. I even used both keys. I am just thankful I was not at a gas station or stranded somewhere other then my driveway. When I get home, I will try to start and I will immediatley take it to the dealer and I am going to dump it there. I agree my warranty should cover this. I did not take it sooner because you could not predict when the light would come on and I was told it has to be on. Well, they can start it daily until the light comes on now. I am going to tell them to keep the darn thing until it does. I will surely let the forum know my progress with the dealer and the problem. Thanks for the response. Oh yeah... and I am taking your list of suggestions for them to check as well. Thank You!!
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    "my security light has never blinked in the ON position, it was allways illuminated, not blinking in the on position". If the light is illuminated solid while the engine is running then there's a problem with the passlock system which may or may not be the hall effect sensor. The actions your talking about, putting the resistor in to fool the passlock into thinking the hall effect sensor is there and functioning, or cutting wires to just bypass it, may not fix your problem. Also, you could have more than one problem. From your description, a failing fuel pump could also be the culprit, or something as simple as a clogged fuel filter. Also, the BCM itself could be the problem.
  • cmelficmelfi Member Posts: 3
    thank you for your quick responce. my car was towed just an hour ago, it would'nt start for me anymore so i kinda had no choise. the dealership said they would fix the problem free of charge, i just hope that i get it back in the next day or 2. i appreciate your feedback on what the issue could be, i also thought maybe the fuel pump or BCM...i'm gonna mention that to the dealership when my car arrives there in a bit...thanks again
  • cmelficmelfi Member Posts: 3
    turns out the dealer had it fixed yesterday but the wanted to keep it overnight just to make sure that it was fixed and starts continuesly...they said that it was the fuel pump...good call ( burdawg ) thanks for eveything yall...now that it runs i'm kinda hesitant to mess with the wiring...i'm sure because of the number of posts in this and so many forums i'm not finished with this issue (cross my fingers)
  • markjr54markjr54 Member Posts: 7
    thanks to everyone replying. in checking further into this mess, i found that there is no current , ( voltage ) , going to the fuel fuel pump. i had another entire ignition
    switch , so i put it in and the security looked as if it was working correctly after
    doing the relearn. but again no start and nothing at the fp. i,m thinking the bcm is about the only thing left. anybody know if this car needs to be reprogrammed if another bcm is put in (along with everything else) and it still does not start. fuses are good. THANKS

    markjr54 2000 ga se 3.4
  • hokiemohokiemo Member Posts: 13
    My 2002 Impala needed a new BCM according to the ex-GM mechanic who troubleshot my Security/Passlock problem. He said he could have programmed the BCM himself, but that it would not receive the most up-to-date information so he wound up taking my car to a Chevy dealership where he once worked and his friends programmed the BCM with some special machine. He said the going rate was $95/hour for a two hour job, but they only charged him half. The guy seems like a stand-up guy and was recommended by my regular mechanic who deals primarily with Chryslers and doesn't have the GM computers that seem to be needed to do the BCM justice. This is my long-winded way of saying I think your BCM will probably need to be programmed.

    As far as you not getting voltage at the fuel pump, I think there is one other thing to be considered besides the BCM. If I recall from all the threads I've read about the passlock security issue, and I've read easily over 1000 different messages, I believe the BCM sends a signal to the PCM(powertrain control module) which in turn allows voltage to pass to the fuel pump. Can anyone verify/second this sequence? IIRC, the PCM is located inside the engine compartment while the BCM is located under the dash. As others have mentioned corrosion in the BCM, PCM, fuse blades, and just about any connection in the wiring harnesses can create havoc with the Passlock system.

    This is just a theory, and possibly wishful thinking on my part, but I think the newer BCMs and the newer programming for them have done away with a great deal of the security/Passlock issues on GM products. I'm thinking the engineers have allowed for greater variations in the resistance reading of the key to compensate for variances due to wear and tear in the ignition switch/cylinder. I don't believe GM has sent out any troubleshooting/maintenance bulletins on vehicles after 2005...I may be wrong on that. In fact I'm trying to recall if GM has ever had a Passlock issue with any of their Buick models.
  • markjr54markjr54 Member Posts: 7
    hokiemo;
    thanks for the help. i bought used bcm on ebay with the same numbers as my original one. maybe it will come by friday. i'll check the pcm connectors . could you tell me if your security,oil, and battery lights are on when your switch is turned to acc. i don't know because i never used acc. i also wonder why the security light is not on and there are no codes.?? the chevy dealer here says they don't THINK
    a 2000 needs programming .
  • jayaveryjayavery Member Posts: 4
    Lovemygrandam. Thank you for your advice and as you suggested, I took the Tahoe into the dealer. When I got home from work she started right up. Drove it in and started to explain, The Service Writer was familier because he knew all the right questions to ask me. They found the problem right away. It was the Ignition Switch. My symptoms were the Security light coming on solid while driving down the road at random times and random days. Re-starting the vehicle and the light sometimes coming on again and sometimes not. Ending up as a result of a no start. However, when I sat for the 10 mins to try again, It still would not start. (I may have done that wrong) From the time the light came the first time to the Tahoe going into the dealer for repair was 4 weeks. What happens is when the Ignition switch is bad it will no longer recognize the key and engage the no start situation. It kicks a code out that says "No ID unrecognizable key" Also... My extended warranty paid for the diagnostic and parts and labor. It cost me the $50.00 deductible only. It it matters, my Warranty provider is "National Warranty." I hope this helps some people.
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