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Thanks
any success with your repair work ? how much did it cost? many thanks for ur reply
OBD Code: P0751 => Shift solenoid (SS) A - performance or stuck off
Symptom: No 3rd or 4th gear
Having studied the service manual (which is on a CD) for days and trying to verify what is causing my problem, I think I have narrowed it down. Since I am an individual and don't have a complete Ford shop at my disposal, I attempted to check the obvious thing first - connections, loose grounds, broken wires, continuity and amperage checks of all solenoids, and on and on.... Since all solenoids and connections passed electrically, I proceeded to check each solenoid with air pressure while energizing them and found that all solenoids tested good. Now, what I did not say was that the main control valve body had several bolts loose (they could be turned by hand). I state this now, since when I first discovered this after removing the drain pan, I removed the valve body, checked it for damage and reinstalled it. It was late in the day and no parts stores were open, and I just tried it out to see if that cured the problem. Well, it didn't. I pulled the valve body again and inspected the gaskets a little closer and discovered they should be replaced. (The manual tells you to replace them anyway) My question - Has anyone found any valve body bolts loose. I don't know if this was done at the factory or by a previous mechanic, most likely the latter. I feel that my shift problem has occurred due to the valve body bolts backing out, thus allowing the fluid pressure to leak out. This was a possible cause listed in the service manual. I am having to order the parts and hope this is going to solve the problem. Will post when I figure this out...
anyone have any idea what might be wrong?
This is out of the manual:
Transmission fluid temperature (TFT) sensor
The TFT sensor is located on the internal wiring harness to the solenoid valves in the fluid pan.
It is a resistor and measures the transmission fluid temperature.
The transmission fluid temperature is used by the PCM for the following functions:
Applying the torque converter clutch is not permitted until the transmission fluid reaches a certain temperature, engagement of 4th gear is prevented in extreme sub-zero temperatures until the normal operating temperature is reached,
if the transmission fluid temperature is excessive, a pre-set fixed shift curve is selected and the torque converter lock-up clutch is closed in "2", "3" and "4"; of the transmission warning indicator is activated.
Resistance between transaxle vehicle harness connector pin 5 (component side, transaxle internal harness), and transaxle vehicle harness connector pin 4 (component side, transaxle internal harness).
Resistance should be approximately in the following ranges:
-20 ° C (-4 ° F) - 236Kohms - 317Kohms
0 ° C (32 ° F) - 83.2Kohms - 107Kohms
20 ° C (68 ° F) - 33.5Kohms - 41.2Kohms
40 ° C (104 ° F) - 14.6Kohms - 17.6Kohms
60 ° C (140 ° F) - 7.08Kohms - 8.01Kohms
80 ° C (176 ° F) - 3.61Kohms - 4.06Kohms
100 ° C (212 ° F) - 1.96Kohms - 2.20Kohms
120 ° C (248 ° F) - 1.13Kohms - 1.25Kohms
130 ° C (266 ° F) - 0.87Kohms - 0.96Kohms
Pin numbers as looking at the connector on top of tranny with lock tab on top:
1 2 3
4 5 6
7 8 9
Good luck, let us know what happens,
iamech
CORPORATION. THE DEALER MECHANICS & SERVICE WRITERS THAT
I HAVE HAD TO DEAL WITH PLAY ALL KINDS OF GAMES, REFUSE
TO ACKNOWLEDGE VERY WELL KNOWN PROBLEMS, CAUSE ME TO
CHECK & QUESTION WHETHER THEY DID ROUTINE SERVICES THAT
I PAID FOR, AND JUST FLAT OUT LIE TO ME. IT IS REAL OBVIOUS TO
ME THAT FORD MOTOR COMPANY DOES NOT CARE WHETHER OR
NOT I GET RIPPED OFF OR MISTREATED BY THEIR DEALERSHIPS.
THEY REFUSE TO ACKNOWLEDGE VERY WELL KNOWN PROBLEMS.
IT SEEMS TO ME THAT THERE IS A HUGE QUALITY ISSUE WITH FORD
PARTS & THAT THEY KEEP SELLING THE SAME BAD PARTS RATHER
THEN TRULY REDESIGNING THEM & SOLVING THE PROBLEM.
That Corolla I passed over to buy American is looking better and better,
Disgusted
I know nothing about cars. All I know is that a couple of weeks ago the car started acting weird. On the highway, I'd be driving about 50mph and would step on the gas to go faster and it wouldn't do anything so I had to do it again and it would kind of jump.
Then it started doing this driving down regular roads at no particular speed. It last did it on a 30-40 road and I didn't even have my foot on the gas. The ride would be smooth and all of a sudden the car would jump or spurt.
Then the other day as I approached a red light and started braking, the car slowed down but not fast enough. I know my car and I know that road, it couldn't have been the way I was driving. There was a puddle (although not that deep) and I think I might have just slid through the puddle and that's why the car didn't stop correctly. But when the light turned green and I stepped on the gas, the car wouldn't move. Turned the car off and on again, all I did was roll a few inches. Shut if off for a minute and restarted and I was able to go again and that has been the one and only time it's ever stalled. I want to blame the puddle even though it wasn't raining hard at all and I have driven in much deeper puddles than that on flooded roads and nothing ever happened.
I've also suspected that my gas mileage has been going down but blamed it on the way I was driving but seems other people on here are saying it goes with transmission problems.
I'm wondering if I should trade it in rather than wait for the next time to stall and I can't get started again. :lemon: Or, the next time the brakes don't work, there happens to be someone in front of me and I get to "roll" right into them killing my insurance and driving record with an at fault accident. Trading it in seems like the best option.
Now I am fighting with them over my slipping transmission.
I got this car with 5.5K miles on it. It was a literal Grandmas car (my Grandma)
Because the car was seven years old I changed all the fluids. The car would always run poorley when it got hot outside which is a lot of the time in Southern Calif. Liked others described, I would be going 40 and want to speed up. I apply gas and nothing. More gas and nothing. Punch it and the car would kick down.
I was getting terrible milege.
I read through the posts and stumbled on the Transmission Fluid Temperature Sensor. I replaced the sensor and the 3.1 Qts of Fluid. When I changed the fluid intitially, I used MaxLife Dextron/Mercon. This time when the sensor was replaced I used Mercon V fluid from Castrol. The car runs much better and my milageage has improved by a lot. I now have an ocassional problem at idle where the car bumps.
That is the best way I can describe it.
Thanks for all who post and I hope this helps
I own a 2002 Ford Focus with automatic transmission. The symptoms are that the transmission disengages (slips out of gear) when it goes into 3rd gear. When the car slows down to 20 miles an hour or so (or when you stop) it re-engages. You can drive the car in 1st or 2nd gear generally. The transmission light comes on. There are no noises associated with this problem. If you have this problem then it's probably the "A" Solenoid that needs to be replaced. Here's how you make sure that's the case and fix it for $50.
1. You need to pull the diagnostic computer codes. Ford will pull them for you for $100. But, you can do it for free by going to AutoZone. They have a loaner computer diagnostic code puller. If you bring the car they'll just do it for you in the parking lot. If you want to borrow the tool then they will want a $200 security deposit. I recommend that you bring the car to them if you it's close. Also, there are lots of small shops that will pull the code for you for free. There's no reason to pay a "diagnostic fee" to pull the computer repair code. This code will tell you Exactly which solenoid to replace. It's typically the "A" solenoid, though.
2. Once you get the code you need to know which solenoid to replace. Here is a list of diagnostic solenoid codes:
P0750 SSA SSA solenoid circuit failure SSA circuit failed to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open or shorted or PCM driver failure during on-board diagnostic. No reverse gear (short) or no fourth gear (open). Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0751 SSA SSA functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. REFER to Diagnosis By Symptom (307-01 , DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
P0755 SSB SSB solenoid circuit failure SSB circuit fails to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open or shorted or PCM driver failure during on-board diagnostic. Not all gears present. No converter clutch apply in third and fourth gears. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0756 SSB SSB functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. No converter clutch apply in third and fourth gears. REFER to Diagnosis By Symptom (307-01 , DIAGNOSIS AND TESTING).
P0760 SSC SSC solenoid circuit failure SSC circuit fails to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open or shorted or PCM driver failure during on-board diagnostic. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0761 SSC SSC functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0765 SSD SSD solenoid circuit failure SSD circuit fails to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open, shorted or PCM driver circuit failure during on-board diagnostics. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0766 SSD SSD functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0770 SSE SSE solenoid circuit failure SSE circuit failed to provide voltage drop across solenoid. Circuit open. Shorted or PCM driver circuit failed during on-board diagnostics. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
P0771 SSE SSE functional failure Mechanical or hydraulic failure of the shift solenoid. Not all gears present. Refer to Pinpoint Test A.
3. It's fairly easy to replace the solenoid. You need a 5/16 socket and rachet and a tube of Gray RTV Gasket Maker (you can get it at any auto parts store).
4. You need to buy the solenoid. I only found it at Ford. For some reason when I told 3 different parts managers I wanted the "A" solenoid (which is how it's described in every Ford transmission diagram and on the computer code) they didn't know which one it was. There are 6 solenoids in the transmission. The "A" solenoid is the one they sell the most of and probably have on hand - because it goes out fairly often on this model. The Ford part number (off the bag) is XS4Z-7H148-AA. I paid about $45 for it at a Ford dealership.
5. For the repair you need to raise the front of the car. I used ramps, but make sure it's secure. The transaxle (transmission) is in the front right, as you look at the car. The bottom is a pan, like an oil pan, with about 20 bolts holding it on. They're 5/16th's. There's transmission fluid in the pan, but no "drain bolt". So, have a pan ready to catch the fluid once the transmission pan comes loose. Be careful. Transmission fluid is hot, it will make a mess. And, the pan has a silicone gasket seal around it. So, once you get the bolts off/loose you will probably need to work the pan loose. Don't bend it. (Make sure you get all the bolts off, it's easy to miss one.) I left one bolt on the front so I could ease the pan loose from the transmission on the back and let the fluid run into a pan. Then I removed the pan.
6. You will see SIX solenoids in the transmission. You can't miss them. Each one has a different colored wire going to it. The A Solenoid has a white wire going to it, it's a small solenoid in the center on the right. It's held in place by one bolt (that's also 5/16ths). Unplug the wire, remove the bolt and remove the solenoid. Put the new solenoid in.
7. Carefully and completely scrape all the old gasket off the transmission surface the the edge of the fluid pan. Clean it. Then apply the new gasket (from the tube) onto the edge of the pan. It is VERY IMPORTANT that you just apply a thin bead of gasket compound. Don't use too much or the excess will get into your transmission and cause a problem.
8. Replace the pan. Let the gasket set according to the instructions on the tube - READ THE INSTRUCTIONS. And refill the transmission with transmission fluid. I was told to use the same fluid I took out, by someone I trust. You use a funnel and refill it through the transmission dipstick tube (front, right of the engine, yellow handle). Make sure you put it in the right place. Fill it slowly. Then run the engine and check the fluid. Add until it reads correctly on the dipstick. You check transmission fluid with the car running and the fluid hot.
9. Look under to car to make sure there are no leaks around the transmission pan. Over the next days and weeks keep an eye out for leaking transmission fluid when you park. If the transmission pan is leaking then you'll need to redo the gasket but do a better job this time.
That's it! It's so easy a 14 year old kid could do it. It doesn't take strength, mechanical ability or the ability to grow a beard. It just takes care, patience and dirty hands. Have a shop do it for you for $450-$600 OR MORE. Or do it yourself for $
looks like a few people have had this problem and I could really do with some help on this.
I have an automatic focus but live in England (where people mainly have manuals) and no garage not even ford can diagnose the problem.
The gear changes aren't smooth and it jolts into gear, sometimes the automatic transmition warning light comes on but this does not log a fault code onto the computer, an engineer has even test driven my car with the computer plugged in and the light has come on and no fault code shows up.
The fault started off very intermittent but now every time i get in it i am learched into gear.
The solenoid and valve body have been changed but the problem still remains - any ideas please???
Thanks
The problem at hand now: I get a strange smell 100% of the time when I turn off of a 40mph road onto a residential street (very tight 90* turn, so I slow way down). It smells like a belt is burning. On Labor Day weekend, I went out to a lake and right at about 85 miles on my trip, I made a bad turn that turned into a gravel road. I immediately turned around, but for some reason, after that rough gravel road, my transmission couldn't find 3rd gear anymore. It tries to go to it, but can't, so it slips itself into neutral. I can drive it just fine in my low gears, but now even they're having problems! Now, the car struggles to find 1st without slipping and had a very hard time finding 2nd once. I am worried the problem is more than a sensor or something coming loose on a bumpy road. I'll keep you posted on what my problem turns out to be, and I'm willing to talk about that class action if it is something like my pistons...
was put in. After another 1000 miles, am starting to feel the lurches and slips that many on this forum are complaining about. When I talked to my dealer about it,
they stated they didn't know of any tranny problems with Focus. I've only made for or five payments on this vehicle. Any suggestions.
As to the band replacement diagnostic, the Ford tech ruled out solenoid issues with their test equipment and confirmed with their test equipment that the transmission was not going into 2nd or 4th gear. Also, the tranny oil was not burnt (btw - for normal driving be sure to replace tranny oil every 30k as overheating is the main cause of tranny failure according to some tranny site). The Ford tech says the 2-4 Band, which is some mechanical part that allows it to go into 2nd & 4th gear, had broke at the spot welds. He says the band had 6 spot welds and he is seeing them break at around 50k to 60k, and, that the replacement band has 8 spot welds. So, thought I'd post this here since the problem sounds somewhat like other posts but the actual repair is different, i.e., not solenoids or tranny overhaul.
Just bought a used focus ... 2000 ZX3, the previous owner told me that the trans slips and might need to be replaced ... After reading this forum, I decided to pull the DTC's ....
The only transmission code that was in there was
P0751 - Shift sol A perf/stuck
After reading some of the other posts #76 to be exact, I am wondering if replacing the "A" solenoid would solve this problem ... It slips in 3rd, but the passing gear works ... Reverse is fine so far ... The car has 133K and I have no history on it ...
Please Advise ...
Thx .. Tony
I own a 2001 ford focus se, 4 door sedan, automatic transmission with 180,xxx miles. I purchased the car used about three years ago.The car has had an intermitten problem since june or july of 2008 were it down shifts into the next lower gear momentarily then shifting back into the appropriate gear. It might only do it once or it migh do it a couple dozen time over the course of several miles. Aside from this problem the car seems to be running a driveing just fine.
So far I have sent my car to a transmission shop, they had it for a week, but it never acted up for them. I don't like throwing parts at cars, but not knowing what the problem is; I drive alot and I need this car, I need to get it fixed, so I had a new sensor installed for $95. Since then the problem seemed only to happen when it was very hot outside ( 90 degree or more). August, September the problem was not to bad becasue tempraturea were not to high, but now it's doing it in december when it's only 4 degrees outside, and the car is still acting up. Sometimes within the first few miles of driving.
The problem does seem to be getting worse, but it is still intermitten. The car has no codes, but within the last couple months I've had to drive at night, so with my lights on, radio playing, I notice the light flickering at the same time I'm haveing the problem with the transmission.. :confuse:
Has any one else enconttered this problem? Thank you for any help you can offer.
I'm assuming that when this happens there is no change in throttle position or road conditions, slight upgrades for example.
Something electrical is probably affecting the transmission.
thank you.
If that doesn't work, then you should check for a bad motor mount or transmission mount.
If that doesn't work, then it's an internal problem--internal wear of synchronizers or selector fork.
Can anybody advise me on this matter?
My view? If it's a small dent, that is an unlikely cause. If there's a hole/leak, well that's a different matter and doesn't look good for you. It also doesn't look good for the used car dealer, but again, I don't know what you can do to him legally in Dubai.
Good luck with your car-
I am looking for a step-by-step guide on how to do it so I do not make any mess-ups.
Is doing a full change okay or would it be better for me to pay the damned $200 ford wants to flush it out for me?
Thanks!
eHow ATF Change
Also, Do you think its okay to change the filter too?
How has your Trans Issue gone??
Read your post and feel your pain.
I too am mid-tranny pissed off. Slipping, erratic, possessed, transmission that may kill someone who has too much faith in its ability to get someone out of harms way.
I hope you have at least emotionally recovered from your ordeal. I am still tweaked by the experience.
At least my Chrysler mini-van had a "limp-in" mode where it worked in second gear until you could get to saftey.
Ford ignores me like I am a bad penny.
The dealers, both I went to, are a rude as rude can be. I guess if I had an Expedition they might give me the "time of day".
I have done a bunch of research and, while being quite handy, I don't want to "practice" fixing this rolling depreciation. So...
I am going to try 2 things:
#1 - A solid advisor suggested trying to do a reverse flush:
a. change the fluid and filter. Do not power-flush.
b. double secure block the rear wheels and set parking brake in a safe location.
c. Start car in park and allow to warm up to normal temperature.
d. Put car in reverse and allow to idle at least 30 minutes with car in reverse gear at idle.
e. Make sure your car is safely secured and will not move in the slightest. The cooling fan should kick on when the temp goes up, this is necessary to aide in cleaning.
f. After 30 mins, let cool, drain fluid and change filter again.
g. He call this a reverse flush and says it should be done every 36 mos or 36K miles. It is supposed to clean the debris and sludge that can accumulate in the precision valves and passages.
If this does not work, then I will try #76's route and take it to AutoZone to get codes and see if it is a solenoid that needs replacing.
Jilted, your post inspired me. I will not quit 'til i am satisfied.
Keep the faith,
Dean.