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Chevrolet Malibu Maxx Engine Questions
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Comments
This is not a race car. It is shutting your engine down as redline is 5500 or 5800 RMP, yes, there is no "red" marker on the side to tell you that.
Let off the gas and you will be just fine.
Identifix said... An occasional problem on this vehicle is failure of the Ignition Lock Cylinder. This failure will prevent the vehicle from starting. The cost to repair the Ignition Lock Cylinder is estimated at $63.34 for parts and $91.00 for labor. All prices are estimates based on $65.00 per flat rate hour and do not include diagnostic time or any applicable sales tax.
and the technician i talked to said... The most common problem with these vehicles and a no start condition is a bad passlock security sensor. The passlock sensor is built into the ignition lock cylinder. The lock cylinder will need to be replaced to correct this problem.
the tech i talked to was thru www.justanswer.com.. his name is Dave Nova and has over 1000 positive ratings.. he answered my question very quickly and seemed to know what he was talking about.. i would recommend this website to anyone in need of some help... btw.. they do charge.. but not much
i read all of the fixes that have been tried on this forum that haven't worked and noticed that this isn't one of them.. i am taking my car in on wednesday to have this part replaced i will let you know if it works.
Anyway....did changing the Ignition Lock Cylinder work?
Pardon me if you've already done this and the symptoms aren't exact with the light flashes, but it does sound the same to me on my quick read. (I would find the article after mine and short out the wires as described by someone else and see if that fixes it..try searching on articles I posted )
About 1-2x per month, the engine will have issues starting. All other times, the engine starts fine, no issues. Lately though, when we do have the starting issue, it takes more tries to get the car started...
Symptoms: When trying to start, we hear the click of the solenoid and the starter turns and then it just keeps cycling/spinning/clicking, etc. After 15-30 sec. of this, it will usually finally start. Or sometimes, we will have to stop, wait a few minutes, then try again for another 30 sec. attempt.
As I mentioned, about 90% of the time the car starts fine.
The latest time though, I couldn't start it, had it towed to the dealership and it started right up....of course.
I'm suspecting it is something electrical since we have no fuel starvation issues while idling or driving...
Had the battery tested and it is strong and spark plugs/wires were recently changed.
Any ideas? Ignition Switch?
I've observed with my 2006 Maxx LT, bought at 56K miles in August
2009, currently at 58K miles.
* When I was buying the car, I noticed that it was starting very
hesitantly. Could compare it with my other Bu's -- in this car, the
engine would start with a scary hesitation.
The dealer checked out the battery and found it bad. So, the battery
was replaced with a new (NAPA) one.
* With the new battery, the engine would start better, but still very
differently from how my Malibu sedans start -- and I was never
comfortable with the feeling of Maxx's start.
* At the end of December, at 57.3K miles, in brutal cold, after I
stopped to fuel the car at a gas station, my Maxx refused to start
at all. "Oh, damn thing", I thought, "I knew there was something
wrong with you -- that's why they sold you!.."
I went to the station attendant, to "call somebody". At 9pm, not being
a AAA member... No number I knew to call... Cold...
A GENTLEMAN was buying some small stuff at the cash register -- he
heard me asking the attendant for a phone directory "or something".
"Wait", the GENTLEMAN said, "Does it crank? It may be the
battery... I may have the jumper cables in my truck... I'll come by
in a moment."
So, he drove over, got out his cables and gave me an easy jump
start. God bless him! Many safe miles to him! May he be rich,
healthy and always loved! Never cursed with a car lemon!
The GENTLEMAN drove his way, and I drove mine, to a small shop that
I knew was to be open till 10pm.
It was -- and they checked out my battery, while I was holding my
breath.
That damn new NAPA battery was being charged but was not holding the
charge. Thus, it was the battery, not my beautiful Maxx!..
* They started to replace the battery. Looked up the OEM one. I
said, "Give me the best battery!" They looked at the one one step
up. "Yes, this should be all right for your car."
And so, they installed a bigger battery there -- still compatible
with Maxx, of course.
And since then, with the new battery, the car starts like a dream --
no more feeling of slipping, skipping, missing or whatever.
So, think about your battery, too -- and when replacing it, spend
extra $20 and get the best battery that fits. May help.
Check Engine Light is on and the display says "Check the Gas Cap"...of course, it's not the gas cap. Checked the diagnostic code and it said "EVAP Emission Control System Leak (large)". I'm not experiencing any other engine related problems (other than the occasional starting issue) so I'm thinking it's either the EVAP canister or the sensor. Anybody ever deal with this issue? I suppose it could tie into the starting issue but wouldn't bet on it.
Also experiencing problems with the remote start. I get the "double lights flash" also. My guess is that it's a faulty hood sensor. I will try bypassing, clearing any codes stored and will post any results later.
My main concern is the transmission though. Sometimes, when starting from a dead stop I get a pretty severe "shudder". I haven't been able to figure out if it's the tire's not hooking up with the pavement (no biggie) or if it's the transmission not hooking up with the wheels (biggie). Has anybody had the same experience? I'm due to change transmission fluid but I'm afraid to do it (for fear of making it worse) without knowing what's going on here.
Any hints/tips/tricks/suggestions anyone has would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
I have 88K now & I get a false start sometime, but i rarely use the remote start. I find if I realy turn key all the way to start its' not so bad and don't get as many false and "rumbly starts".
my 05 also shudders , but very rare, let us know if you figure this out. BTW- My Max will break-loose the front tires at will , I'll say the 3.5 in our cars has got the gear on steroids. A post mentioed it was not the typical malibu drivetrain... D~
I have changed the trans fluid every 50K....though GM schedule is every 100K.....doesnt answer your question, but just my experience with my high mileage MAXX
Unfortunately, the only thing I've been able to confirm is that my remote start problems were the result of a faulty hood latch sensor. Bypassing the sensor and clearing the codes did the trick and it starts remotely like a charm.
The starting issues I've experienced ocassionally also, it's like the starter is trying to start the engine but it doesn't quite fully engage. Not sure what the problem is because if I give it a little gas, it usually starts right up.
As far as the transmission I think I'll just change the fluid and filter and see how that works. I'll post again if I gain any insight.
My '04 MAXX was also only filling up about 3/4 to 5/8 of the way unless I 'topped it off' about 20 times.
Dealer found a TSB that called for replacing the fuel tank and that fixed the fuel up issue as well as the Check Gas Cap light.
Apparently was an incorrectly designed fuel tank initially, this one seems to work better with the electrics.
As for the remote start problem, I have just run into that problem as well. Unlike your description, my Malibu will blink once. I asked a mechanic and they suggested reset the system by disconnecting the battery for 10 seconds or the following:
1) Turn key ignition to the on position for 10 minutes
2) Turn key ignition to the off position for 6 seconds aftwards
3) Repeat Steps 1 & 2 for two more times.
4) After last step 2 proceed to crank over the vehicle.
He then said if those didn't work that it may be a remote start relay. Unsuccessful stil... Hope all goes well with your repairs.
as far as the coolant....Im not sure how it was done.....again...not a power flush....my local mechanic takes care of it....so I believe it was simply another drain and fill......again did it at 100K and 150K
Sprayed the inside gasket of the gas cap with carb and choke cleaner to break down the dirt. noticed right away that the dirt broke right down, wiped clean with a rag. Then sprayed the metal that the gas cap fastens to and wiped with steel whole to break down dirt. wiped clean and tightened gas cap back on. Started car messaged did not appear and has not since i cleaned it. Happy motoring!
When I start the car every once in a while the car shudders and shakes as if the timing is
badly off of something is misfireing. I immeditely shut off the engine for fear of the timing belt
slipping a notch or two which would mess up the timing. What I do now is I first turn the key
one notch for a couple of seconds which allows the fuel system to squirt its first shot of fuel
into the engine( which is why you don't have to step on the gas pedal like in carbarator
cars), then I turn the key all the way to the start position. Since I have began doing this I
never had a shuddering start.
The "Check gas cap" problem comes and goes. Even after changing my gas cap twice.
One mechanic put a tester on my car and asked if I ever fuel my car with the enging running
which I have done once in a while. He said that throws off the computer when the tank is
vented to the atmosphere when the engine is running.. I then did what he
said and ALWAYS fueled up with the engine off. The problem went away for a while but every
once in a while the "Check gas Cap" alarm pops up it's ugly head. The engine V6 runs
smoothly but my mileage stinks. (14 to 18 MPG). There is no smell of gas. I'm thinking that
there is some kind of vapor or fuel return line with maybe a solenoid in the line that is faulty
and the gas tank pressure is not operating at the correct pressure. If anyone has the cure to
this problem please send it along.
The car is OK but on another subject my recline seat levers(cheap PLASTIC female splines
that ingage the metal male splines coming out of the seat) are broken and I have to gently
put on a vise grip pliers to move the seat. I also have a 2000 Chevy Blazer in NY and both of
the reclining adjustments are broken. My whole life I always buy American to support my
countries economy, but if GM doesn't
get its act together on such a simple task I may buy my next car elsewhere. Very frustrating.
I have a 2004 Maxx with just at 70K miles on it. Since I purchased it at 40K miles I've had the following issue:
Car will do the infamous "hard start" where it will sound like it is going to start but won't turn over fully until I give it a bit of gas. Seems to happen most often will gas is half a tank or lower and/or it's super hot outside.
However, I have a special bonus of when it does this my A/C will turn on and blow but the air it blows is not cooled. Problem in the summer. Also when it does this (in the winter) my rear window defrost/defog won't turn on.
Beyond that I am having cruise control issues that started at about 65K miles. When I first start the car if I engage the cruise control within about 5 miles or 5 minutes, it will engage just fine. However, once I have to disengage (step on the break, hit the off button) it will not allow me to resume OR reset the cruise control until I have put the car in park (for just a few seconds) or restarted it.
Beyond that one night a friend who was traveling behind me mentioned my CHMSL was flickering and now it is out entirely. I've read that can be BCM related.
I have an appointment next week to have diagnostics run on the car at $100/hour. Before I walk into that expense, can anyone give me any thoughts or even suggestions at how much replacing a BCM would cost. One place told me $80 for the part and then labor to program it (which has to be done at a dealer???) and another place told me I might need to replace the whole grid (?) at a cost of around $2K but even just the BCM being $800.
To replace the CHMSL is $110 but I don't want to do that if it's not the part but the BCM that is the issue.