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I've checked the brake fluid level and it's fine.
The indicator went on this morning during the way to work.
Not knowing how many miles you have on your Escape or Tribute it's hard to tell. One reason might be that you need new brake pads/rotors. When they wear down to a certain point the brake fluid level will drop below the sensor every time you hit the brakes, causing the brake light to go on (and stay on). Since more fluid is needed to push the thinner pads up against the rotors your reservoir could look full while the brake pedal is relaxed but it empties fast when you depress the pedal.
There are other possible causes of course but that one comes to mind because I've seen it before in other cars I've driven. It's one of the easier one's to fix too.
THANKS for the reply...... much appreciated !!
I was born & raised in Connecticut, spent my first 48 years (48 winters) there, but the last two years we went to an "extreme"..... moved to Tampa, Florida.
I'm a "musclecar gearhead" from the 60's/70's and always had my "beauty" stored away in the garage Dec. thru April and used my "beater" for the slush, snow & sand winters. I've mellowed out the past few years (after mid-life crisis) but I'm still a "semi-agressive" driver.... just hate being behind a vehicle going under the posted speed limit. My '00 Acura TL is getting "old" and while looking for a new car I've noticed the S.U.V.'s of present are so much more refined than those just 5 years ago. Proof of this is our '03 Acura MDX. Sure wish we could have TWO, but we still owe 80% on that one.
So..... bottom line: I am trying to get decent "handling" and very good accelleration in an ALL wheel drive S.U.V. that will burn regular gas and still get around 20 MPG for under $26K. We are planning to move "out in the Country" in Connecticut and from past experience I know those streets are often the very last to get plowed.
I've driven quite a few Mazda Tributes and one Ford Escape. I found the interior is so "plasticy" and the rear drums (to me) are a step backwards, but compared to a KIA Sorento that has solid rear axle and gets 15MPG, the Tribute is still on my "wish list". I am hoping that by March - April 2004, ALL (or most) of the MAJOR Tribute/Escape bugs will be worked out. After reading many of the above forum posts from owners that had to have engine replacements, brake problems, etc. DOES put some "doubt" in my mind as to the integrity of the Tribute / Escape.
i guess if u are familiar with connecticut.. i neednn't say anymore !! ;-)
if r willing to wait until 2004.. then an alternative to consider might be the escape hybrid. it should be as reliable as the '03s but with better gas mileage.
I ruled out all Kias because of their horrible gas mileage.
I agree that the Tribute rear drum brakes are a surprise.. since in the last decade all sedans i owned were disk brakes. but the braking is very smooth even in the rains this summer.. so i quite ok with my 03 so far. FWIW.
as you know, I originally had my eyes on a Mazda6 and (out of curiosity) I look back at that forum from time to time (have you recently read about the door frame rusting?) and it makes me happy I did not buy a "first year model".
Yes, I am willing to wait and actually plan to buy a 2004 S.U.V. (hopefully a Tribute) sometime in March, April or May. Perhaps by then many "bugs and problems" will be worked out, and 99% of the comments in this forum will be extremely positive and about very minor bugs or annoyances. Back in '99 I was on Edmunds.com for two months (every day) trying to decide between an '00 Acura TL or an '00 Lexus 300ES, finally chosing the Acura. As I mentioned before, I am currently living with a "timebomb" as my Acura TL has that famous transmission failure problem, which has reduced it's resale value drastically.... and the '00 was a second year model build.
I think MY biggest problem when deciding which '04 S.U.V. to buy is made difficult because we own a "top of the line" '03 Acura MDX w/Touring, NAV, Tow pkg. etc. and although I know it's a $42K vehicle, I subconsciously "compare" these $25K S.U.V.'s like Escape/Tribute/Sorento/Santa Fe to the MDX. Perhaps I should just bite the bullet and get a Honda Pilot ($32K) but I DO like the way the Tribute accelerates and handles.
You mentioned a "hybrid".... I may be confused here, but what did you mean?
I mentioned before that the color I fell in love with (a sissy thing for a guy to say?) is Light Tundra Metallic, which only Mazda (Tribute) offers. To me, Ford has NO exciting colors that I would want (Escape).
Best check under your door and trunk gaskets just to calm yourself before the storm :-)
Steve, Host
http://www.fordvehicles.com/escapehybrid/main.asp
available in late summer 2004. so later than when u want one... it will be a new model year for 2004.. but since the hybrid is part of the powertrain.. the powertrain warranty will take care of it.
it is really worth it if u r putting high miles on ur cars. I calculated the price... and for my use.. where in put < 10k miles a year.. the price premium was not worth it... so i decided not to wait for it.
since u r planing to buy in Mar 04.. u should definitely consider it. The prototype had a light ice blue color.. which was pretty new and cool. if production versions also have it.. it might be a nice alternative for ur light tundra mettalic ;-)
Have fun researching in the mean time.. ;-)
This Hybrid is gonna be a red-hot seller.... betcha' there will actually be a long waiting list. They claim the "power" of a V6 and fantastic mileage figures.... definitely a "vehicle of the future - here today" (or summer '04).
F.Y.I. - I just changed oil & filter in my '00 Acura TL today (Mobil 1), a "dirty" job but I get to make sure all is done right, plus I can "inspect" too, and during my inspection I found gobs of grease thrown out of the driver's side C.V. joint boot (I must fix this A.S.A.P.) I just purchased and installed a set of Michelin Pilot Sport A/S tires, PowerStop cross-drilled front rotors and ceramicool pads (all wheels), then just recently the S.R.S. light has come on and my TL has only 35K miles. Let's hope this Winter in Connecticut will NOT be nearly as brutal as last year, so at least my TL will make it thru until Spring '04 without major problems. Remember, the "Acura transmission timebomb" !! I sure do wish I can "dump it" down here (in Florida) and buy a NEW vehicle for the drive up to Connecticut next month.
Mine backfired, smoke and flame from under hood and plastic intake manifold was totally blown apart. Dealer said no fault codes, but they had a "bulletin that suggested" could adjust PCM computer to reduce chance of backfire. Had previously done intake gaskets and PCM reprogramming.
And since just off warranty, this "normal" failure was my cost to replace intake manifold, accelerator cable, and some ignition pieces. So now I have a new terrorist weapon, waiting for the next bomb to go off. THANKS FORD!!!
Thanks
Larry
He told me to switch on the 4x4 anytime i want for better traction during rainy days. well.. last weekend it was raining and i switched it on and back ed out of my driveway and as i was turning in reverse towards my "turn-around", my tribute was jerky and noisy.. and i got real scared that my transmission was hosed.
I checked the manual immediately and it says NOT TO USE THE 4x4 button which puts it in 4x4 ON mode unless u are in a road where u cannot see any dry OR WET pavement.
only to turn it on when u r offroad or when the road is completely covered with snow or ice.
I presume my differential wouldn't have got damaged so soon.. but i guess i need to get them to check it when i go in for my 1st oil change.
The manual also says that 4x4 is usually always in the AUTO mode - which means that it will kick in whenver it is needed.
Does anyone have any experience with this.. have u noticed that it kicks in automatically ?
since i dont' expect my wife to go offroad.. i am serioulsy tempted to put a tape on that button saying "do not touch" (remember Kevin Bacon did something similar in the movie - Apollo 13 :-) )
Does anyone have any experience with this.. have u noticed that it kicks in automatically ?"
Yes it does. You really should never need to turn it "ON", but it does help a lot in deep snow, sand, and/or mud. I've switched it to "ON" in all three and you do notice a difference. However, you do not need it to be "ON" in the rain and, as you've already read in the manual, it is not recommended by the manufacturer.
I'd also go back and give that salesman and/or his manager an earful if I were you! You might get some free service out of it.
My advise just leave it in auto mode. The system will work when the front wheels sense the slippage. However, if you do plan on driving in the snow, mudd, ice whatever for extended periods of time then the 4x4 mode should be on.
Oil, I have used 10W-30 in my Escape since day 1. I now have over 30,000 trouble free miles on this vehicle with no issues. The 5W-20 is more for fuel economy. 10W-30 is just fine for the Escape, as any Ford mechanic.
At least by now finding this board and reading the other posts regarding this same problem, I at least feel better.
But, $529. later. . . . .
Have a great weekend!
Rep62ar...Thanks so much for the info I will mention it to the dealership on Monday they have had my car all weekend "sitting" so that they can try to look at it in a no start condition... for some reason opening the hood of the car or even the ride on the tow truck can jiggle or move or do something that will make it start. I am about ready to ditch it if they can't fix it.
I have had many other problems. Both sway bar links replaced. Headlights that have condensation problems. Doors that wont open. Windows that wont go up and down. And the sad thing is that I love this car...I am just afraid after my warranty goes it is going to be a money pit. Thanks again for the info.
Also, my oil plug leaks a few drops a day and a new factory plug did not cure it - anyone have a similar problem/fix?
I assume they used 5-20 oil. I'll contact the service department and post their response on this.
The rear hatch lid is adjustable and if the rear glass is where it rattles, there are two black rubber type nipples... supposedly to stop the glass from hitting the metal. If one of them is missing, just go to the dealer and ask parts dept. for a replacement...they just snap into the small hole. In my case, I merely took some sticky sided velcro and made my own.
various intervals, both pads and rotors...
My '01 Escape XLT V6 needed both at 29K miles.
Replacements costs are on par with those listed in these postings, ~$465.00. The Ford Service
Advisor told me the rotors are 'unturnable' and
that a lot of auto makers are going to the
'disposable' type rotors, Mercedes, and the like.
I've found a reputable independent shop that will
replace the next set, when needed, with ceramic
pads (minimal to no-dust), and turnable rotors
both good after-market brands. I can certainly
relate and commiserate with all who've undergone
this expense so far. However, I'll have to
do the same thing again in about another year
or 20K miles, this time to a better solution
hopefully.
For those with hard-start to stall problems,
mine was the IAC sensor which a friend/mechanic
diagosed in under two (2) minutes. I ordered
the part (Motorcraft) from a parts-house which
was about 15% cheaper than getting it through
a dealership. The part will be about $60.00.
This may not be the same problem or even the
right fix for everyone, but it was for mine.
The fix literally took 5-minutes tops because
the IAC sits on top near the air intake closer
to the engine.
There have been a few other minor problems but
overall this vehicle has been no more problematic
that other vehicles I've owned and less than
others. Independent mechanic shop has recommended
de-carboning the intake throttle body about
every 15K miles. They showed me how do it myself
and save $60 - $70. They claim that this procedure will reduce carbon build-up which occurs
in all autos but especially in a lot of Ford
products.
Are you able to post the procedures for cleaning the intake?
Thanks.
Took the car to a local mechanic. He could not figure out what was wrong. Ran it through the computer tests. He replaced the fuel filter and the fuel pump relay -- said this was the cheapest route. Other alternatives would be more costly.
Has anyone else had this problem? Were you able to correct it? What was the cost and did you go the Ford dealer?
1. I have a noise issue with the vehicle. At about 35 MPH and at high way speeds, I hear a periodic noise from the right wheel area. Appears as though the bearings or something is gone. Took it to the dealer, he tell me that the tires are cupped and so on. He is refusing to fix the same. The tires are original tires, rotated and are in excellent condition.
Apparently, at 34K+ miles, I had a similar issue and they had replace the wheel bearing, hub part etc. Now they are reneging from fixing the same on RHS. ANY ADVICE OR EXPERIENCE ON WHAT TO DO?
2. The passenger side front window glass does not close properly at highway speeds. On other windows the problems is not a severe. I have taken the vehicle back to dealership to get the same fixed several times. They keep telling me there is nothing they can do? ANY IDEAS?
Appreciate your input in advance, Thanks.
The techs at my local dealer that I get all my work done at said that the problem with the tires wearing out faster is the torque is too much for the size tire that ford is using, and there isn't anything that they can really do about it. The Guys at Goodyear told me the same thing, and that it was smart for me to have the warrenty on the tires. The Dunlop's I have now also have the full Lifetime warrenty on them and lets see if they wear out, I have 38,572 miles on my escape now, but only just over 10k on the new tires.
Odie
Can anyone point me to a place which would have detailed instructions on removing the factory stereo and installing a new one? Or, if you could just write out how to do it, that would be great too. I don't really know much about how to install car stereo's, but I heard that it is not that difficult, so I would like to put an MP3 CD player to replace the factory stereo. Any help is appreciated. Thanks.
Also, I found this which looks alot like the same shape as my stereo, so I'm wondering if this is the same way you would remove it:
http://www.carstereohelp.org/stereoremoval/MazdaMPV3StrR.htm
Go to any automotive store and buy (for around $5) the special tool needed for ford radios. Its a u-shaped piece of wire..
Note there are 4 holes in the front of the radio(2 on the left, and 2 on the right)..
Stick one u-shaped wire in the 2 left side holes, and the other u-shaped wire in the 2 right side holes..
Push gently outward on the wires while pulling the radio toward you.. Remember to disconnect the wires from the back.. and your done.
A assume the tribute has the same setup.