Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
I am stumped. Any other suggestions out there? Please help.
The same with an ECM, you must put in the chip from the old one into the new one. Good luck.
I have a 1998 Cadillac Deville, base model, and the cluster lights just went out on it. Just the center section where the fuel gauge, speedo, coolant temp, and all that stuff in the middle is at. The lighted panels on either side works fine. I checked the cluster fuse in the trunk and it appeared to be fine.
I tapped the dash a few times, figuring it would jog something, nothing happened.
I took someone to the bus stop and when they got out and shut the pass. door it seemed to try and light for and instant.
Do I need to replace the cluster or is there something else that may be the problem somewhere. Also are those things, clusters, hard to take out
With the headlights on:
When I turn my headlights on, the third brakelight (above the license plate) does not work. The license plate lights are extremely dim, not really illuminating the license plate at all. The light-up pattern of the taillights is different also. The entire taillight is lit, except for the lower inside quarter of each taillight (not applying the brakes). When braking, they light up properly, and they blink properly with the blinker on. If I disconnect the third brakelight, the normal taillight pattern comes back (a thin stripe on the outside edge of each taillight), but all other problems remain.
The trunk courtesy light is always dim. When it is removed, the license plate lights go off. The license plate lights also go off when the trunk release is disconnected.
Recorder
Good luck,
Recorder
Hope you find that its the problem.
Take the car out on a highway with light traffic. You don't have to be stopped, a rolling start at 5-10 mph is fine - then floor it (keep it floored, make it shift at redline) thru two upshifts - you will probably be going 80+mph at this time, so a ticket is your problem, don't complain to me. Then let the car 'coast' back down to 10 mph, and do it again. Do this 4 or 5 times and you will probably break a lot of the carbon out. And reduce the oil consumption by a lot.
I had a 95 Concours with the Northstar and it suddenly was taking a quart in 600 miles. And it developed a 'carbon knock' which sounds exactly a stuck lifter. A carbon knock is when the carbon in the piston get high enough to actually strike the head (or a valve) at the top of its motion. A few of these Wide Open Throttle (WOT) runs took it back up to about a quart in 2500 miles and the carbon knock went away.
Cadillac has a service procedure for this problem. It involves removing all the plugs and pouring in a solvent and letting it sit for 2/3 hours. Then sucking it out with a special tool. Then they take it out and run it aggressively, and then give it an oil change. I don't know what they charge for this, but it will not be cheap.
I know this sounds like a 'shade tree mechanic' fix, but it works. And it shouldn't hurt the car. If you break something, it was about to break anyway.
The Northstar was designed as a 'sport car motor', and puttering around in one, using premium gas which is actually harder to ignite than regular, will carbon up the motor badly.
I will get back to you .
I Have a 1995 Deville. My dash lights suddenly went off. car will run, but roughly. also the blower motor comes on and blows air harder than it ever has. I have no control over anything on my dash. can anyone help?
First thing to check when many items go haywire at once on a modern car is the battery and charging system. A drop in voltage will cause all kinds of disruption, bad connections at the battery cables, corrosion in electrical connectors, etc.
I'd start with grounds. If the battery is under the hood, check for corrosion on both ground and positive connections. Be sure you've turned the HVAC controls to off before turning your key OFF. If your car has multiple positive connectors check between them for corrosions. Check any small wires for ground running to fenders from the battery. Clean the connection area on those at the fender.
I do not know if the wiring setup in your car is similar to the Park Avenue/lesabre 92-95, but it may have ground busses under the doorsill like Park Avenues and other H-bodies had until Park Avenue changed--was that in 96? These ground bars are under the plastic of the door sill bottom and the carpet. Water from shoes and rain corrode them.
I think of those grounds, or a ground under the dash, because the HVAC system should default to defrost, the AC compressor and radiator cooling fans came on at high speed, and the HIGH blower motor for safety in case of electrical problems. That's what my 93 leSabre did occasionally before I traded it in. And the power door locks would not work. I knew it was the ground bar but never got around to fixing it.
Do some reading and searching in Cadillac repair-oriented forums for that kind of problem.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,