Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
Replaced BCM & TCM, Starter, Ignition switch etc. This has been going on over 1 year. Car will not stay running. Got Code that the TCM wasn't sending information.
When you go to start the vehicle and turn the key to forward auxiliary and it the gear indicator light is on, the van starts and runs fine. But if there is no light, you can start the van, it will run for 5 seconds or so then shuts off. I have talked to different dealers and service people. Been told that maybe the security system is interfearing with things. It can be disconnected or buy a Key Bob which I have never had or needed. I to have phantom wipers. For no reason they will come on then go off a little later. Can anyone offer any other information or suggestions. Don't want to put a lot of money in this, but when it runs, the motor and transmission are fine.
I just met a serious problem that the rear-wiper and A/C light are always flashing when I jumpstarted the engine (it was dead suddenly). How could this problem be? Could it be radiator fuse relay or other electrial issues? Thanks!
With engine on set blower motor to high, set mode position knob to panel (i.e. full left), open all A/C outlets, set temperature to cold (both levers if so equipped). Now press the wash and rear wiper buttons on the A/C panel simultaneously for 5 seconds (until all LED's light). This should get the test started. Assorted lights on this panel will flash as different tests are run. Eventually if the tests are passed the rear wiper LED should be the only light flashing. Push the rear wiper button to exit test mode and you should be home free.
Let us know if this works.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Thanks again
Liwei
I solved the computer reset problem according to your prodedure, but I got another serious problem: The radiator fan was still running when I turned off the engine. After the radiator fan stopped running 20-30 min later I tried to start engine again and failed to start it (it was dead again) and the dash panel are dark. Could it be radiator fan relay problem? I met with this kind of problem about two years ago and the mechanic replaced the radiator fan relay. But I hate to go to auto repair shop (it will cost a lot of labor fee) and want to replace it myself.(If it is this problem with replay). Any suggestion will be appreciated. Thanks in advance!
When I turn the key off the running lights stay on,the high beam indicator light on the dash stays lit!
Up till now I have been unplugging the head lights at the lights under the hood to save the battery!
The head lights work fine high and low beam but the high beam indicator is always on.
Any help would be much appreciated.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Some one suggested testing the fuel pressure,after doing that it was decided it was the fuel pump.
Made sense as we had replaced the gas tank and it was after that it started to act up, to make a long story a little shorter after trying two used pumps and not fixing the problem I installed a new pump and have not had a problem since ( 14 Months ) .
Don
Answered Question
Subject Plymouth Voyager Car Alarm
Question 98 Voyager, bought used, power locks, no remotes, alarm arms when doors lock. Car alarm has started going off in the middle of the night, other times, etc. for no reason. Is there a way I can disable the alarm?
---------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Answer At least we know it's installed correctly
which is actually a good thing here.
Ok, try this.
Put the key in the ignition, and turn forward
all the way just before cranking. Then within
5 seconds, locate, press and hold in the
valet/overide button, found under the
dash area, (push button, spring loaded)
until the installed LED (the blinking light)
in your dash area goes on solid,
and the siren chirps once.
(Your valet switch might be the toggle
(on/off) type. in this case, key on,
flip switch in opposite direction,
then turn the key off.)
This should reset the alarm, and reset
the grounded relay on the starter wire,
allowing you to start the engine.
At this point, the only thing working would
be the keyless entry from the alarm,
if it came equipped that way.
Just Repeat these steps to place it
back to usable armed mode.
You may get 2 chirps, confirming it,
and the lights may flash twice as well.
That should do it.
If you want to remove it at this point,
take it to your neighborhood installer
for this, or buy the wiring chart
(Go to: www.vehiclewires.com)
for the vehicle, and reverse engineer it wire
by wire, until safely removed.
If it does not work out this way,
you will have to replace the system
with one you know how to operate
and what to expect. Don't want to
get stuck in another bad situation.
I hope this helped..
Robert Martin/CEO-ALARMTEK
DELUXESERVICE.com
The only lights that are still flashing are the ac button and the recirculating button. I have a 1998 Dodge Caravan.Do you have any instructions on how to turn off those blinking lights.
Several things did not work, however: Remote control, electric locks, radio, ceiling lights, and the ammeter guage(Other guages OK).
The owner's manual speaks of a circuit breaker behind the center column. Could that be the culpret? If so, exactly where is it and what kind of circuit breaker is it.
I checked all the wires I could see, and no burnt places.
Just went through this myself. There is a fuse box inside the hood towards the drivers side. I'm not looking at it now but the fuses are well diagramed on the underside of the fuse box cover. It's a 20 amp fuse.
Jason
I am also having problems with my AC and recirculating buttons flashing, also my rear wiper comes on when it feels like in strange I hope somene out there can help. Chrysler Voyager 1998 :confuse:
Any suggestions as to where I look for the problem ???
Quoted:
There is an updated door ajar switch for the sliding door, Assuming that the door is adjusted properly , the new switch should take care of your problem
Glenn Beasley
Chry Tech
In response to:
Gene Creelman wrote in message ...
>I have a 95 caravan SE, with 75,000 kms
>recently the door chime and the door ajar panel light and interior lights started to go off and on as I am driving. Seems whwnever I hit a bump or step on the brake or somtimes spontaneously, this happens. Also the power door lock engages as it thinks the door has beenm open.
>Any suggestions as to how to troubleshoot?
>Thanks
Then I left it to cool down, and turned on the heating at MAXIMUM SPEED, MAXIMUM HEAT to drive it to the dealer (short 10 mile drive) and bought the US$ 100 module.
This module is a Solid State Relay (SSR) and retails here for US$ 100, at NAPA it is over $70. It drives 2 fans with a rather high amperage (about 35 amps) so it needs to dissipate a lot of heat, that's why it's installed in the car's frame. However I found out that Chryco did not install any heat transfer material and it can be easily overheated and fail -after all it's a high power semiconductor-.
I installed the replacement module after applying some thermal grease from the computer world. I used Arctic Silver 5 because of the excellent stability and thermal transfer properties.
If I buy a newer DC, or T&C I'm pulling the module out and installing the thermal grease!!! The module is kinda expensive! :mad:
As time has passed since the car wash, most of the problems seemed to have resolved themselves with the exception of having trouble with the rear hatch. It will not lock or unlock with the button on the key fob, except very intermittently, and the key will not turn in the door lock.
My mechanic is about to begin to start changing computer modules, but says it is a "guessing game" as to which one could actually be causing the problem.
Does anyone have any ideas??
Vehicle refuses to start. Indicator light come on, fuel relay picks up and...nothing, no crank. Battery is charged, starter motor is fine, and solenoid has power. Engine starts and runs just fine when solenoid is crossed.
On the advice of my local Chrysler dealer, I checked and replaced the column switch package, (T screws, TX screws, several different sizes, OH JOY!!!); the old one was worn, but probably serviceable, no visible broken parts, but I replaced it anyway; no dice.
Rechecked wiring between ignition and starter, all appears to be in order, no apparent fraying, breakage or signs of shorting.
This would appear to me, a relative newby with this type of vehicle, to indicate either a blown fusible link, or a problem relay. Any other culprits anyone can think of?
My question: Where is the fusible link(s) likely to be, and where is the ignition relay located? And once I locate them, now what?
Any advice gratefully received, and Thank You in advance,
Mosander
Hoping this sounds familiar to someone out there - many thanks -
Thankyou!
We just bought a heater/cooler which requires at least 5amp to work. It has an internal system that alerts you if battery is low (I guess it means not enough power supplied) and cooler will not work.
1) If car is not running and cooler connected to outlet2, it does not work due low power.
2) If switch pass back (engine not started but radio working, and cooler connected to outlet1 it works fine.
3) While engine running and cooler connected to outlet2, it works fine while moving; on IDLE it beeps/alerts specially if A/C running at the same time.
I went today to AutoZone and guy verified battery and alternator, he said everything is OK.
Is it possible outlet2 is not giving enough AMP for cooler to work? how could I check that?
Any ideas or suggestions?