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Comments
I have a 2000 Montana and when I had purchased this van (used) the rear quarter windows was working until I must have held the open/close button on the overhead console for too long.
Since then nothing.
I checked the switch carefully and the fuses and all checks out.
Does anybody know what else i can check??
1. The windows can stick open because the little motors attached to each window go too far and get stuck. You will need to unscrew the window from the motor or control arm, then apply current to the motor...hopefully the motor will reverse itself. NEVER open the window all the way....it's another design flaw on this vehicle!
2. Windows can refuse to open.....the window is stuck to the rubber molding. Detach the motor and arm from the window, smack the window from the inside with your hand, it should pop open, clean the window and rubber molding with warm water and a drop of liquid dishwashing soap, apply a light coat of silicon window molding spray to the rubber molding, reinstall motor and arm.
Jack
http://www.misterfixit.com/dedbatt.htm
Note: Needed to replace factory wire with a thicker wire.
If wondering, I read about this wire replacement (with thicker wire) several different times. Thus, sounds like an undocumented "common" problem.
http://answers.edmunds.com/ViewQuestion.aspx?questionId=44507&
See TSB (Bulletin No.: 01-08-45-005E) on its reply.
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f101976
Bad Alternator - it needed to be replaced.
Hope this info helps...
.
The service at deale accused the alternator twice on different times & i refused the part replacement.
Let me know & thank
Jesse
Jesse
"10 inch piece of 10 gauge wire in place of the burned connector" at bottom of:
http://www.misterfixit.com/dedbatt.htm
Not too sure if this "fix" will resolve your vehicle's electrical problem. But, its worth reading....
Hope this helps...
.
I have a 2008 Montana with a host of electrical gremlins. The most regular occurrence is a string of "failures" as indicated by all of the dash lights. After startup, the ABS, Traction control, Airbag, you name it, all the lights will cycle through indicating system failure. Now, since all these cannot (I hope) fail at once, the dealership said it is being caused by a "communucation loss".
The problem usually resolves after a vehicle re-start. This has been going on for well over a year, shortly after we got the van with 19000 km on it.
Another problem is the dash which will go out while driving. It happened for the first time in January 2009, where my wife thought the van had stalled while she was driving it. It took her a bit to figure out the whole dash was out, the van was not stalling. I have seen the problem too, and the appearance is the car is shut off- no speedo, no guages, no lights- nothing- dead.
Now a third problem has started to crop up. The signal lights will not flash at regular intervals. When engaged, the speed of the clicking constantly changes, speeding up or slowing down at will. As well, the cruise control catches a cab at will, failing while driving at speed.
Complicating this is the fact that we have an aftermarket remote car starter for our cold Canadian winters. It is a Compustar if it matters, installed by a reputable place that handles hundreds of installs for 2 GM dealerships near the place.
The dealer I have been going to has automatically assigned all the aforementioned problems to the car starter. Easy for them, frustrating for me. One day the GM dealer disconnected the starter to see if the problems would still occur and they did. After reconnection, still having trouble. And with poor documentation, they deny they ever disconnected the starter, so there is no record the problems re- occured while disconnected.
I had the van in to the car starter place, where the starter was checked, software updated, and given a clean bill of health. The guy was nice enough to offer his phone # to have the GM service tech call so they could get to the bottom of it. He says it's not the starter because they use a diagnostic pin, pin 2 on some module,
to start the car. And, once started with key in ignition, the starter shuts down communication with the car- it is out of the system.
Now, after all that, GM can't find a problem and still blames the starter. The codes, which I don't have, all indicated a "loss of communication". That is what I was told when the dash lights first failed, and it seems to follow with everything else- a U 1000 code.
The car starter guy said the problems all seem to indicate Body Control Module or something related to it. He said it makes sense to him with the communucation losses and that the steering column controls like the cruise, run through the BCM as well.
The dash light failure occurs more in cold than warm conditions, the dash failure occurs n matter the temp, as does the cruise/signal.
I personally think it has nothing to do with the car starter given what was explained to me about it's operation. I am left in a lurch while the van is in the shop again, with GM still pointing at the starter. Any help with this trouble or any insight would be greatly appreciated.
I'm leaning towards bad ground. ??? :sick:
Thanks!
I used (Continuing) multi tester checking the orange wire from alt to fuse panel & red wire from alt to computer. I found red wire damaged from vinyl harness cover right below the antifreeze reservior tank which sits on top of computer.
after soldered wires & heat shrink tube, make sure end of vinyl cover being tie w/wire ties & tape all from end all way to alt & back.
whewww i had 2 months (off & on search) patiences paid off & save bunches of $$$$$$$
big help from multi tester...no read, wire is broken.
I'm located in Yuma, AZ if you r closer, contact me here.
Jesse
hate to charge battery daily for next day short drives.
Hope you or someone can do what I did myself making my lady happy as merry-go-round driver.
Jesse
Thanks, when it comes back I will look under the antifreeze res.
They did find a leaky hose going to rear heater core and are fixing it under the just-expired warranty.
Use the multi-tester checking every wires til you find "No read, it's broken" wire as I suspect the shop did damaged when the engine was replaced before my lady bought the van from dealer.
You can't never trust the manufacture cuz we did leased new 2000 Montana, the wire harness was installed in wrong spot & burned it too close to exhaust manifold. I had to relocate it myself.
Thank you
Lisa
Thanks,
I cannot say which post but dont keep the jumper on too long when testing in case you have the Window down post.
A scrap yard will have a good spare part.
You can indeed safely do this.
The tail-light bulb SOCKET shorts out...between the black power lead and one or more of the other colored wires. The GM supplier used plastic that would not tollerate normal heat. Solution: check bulb sockets for melted / smelly plastic....cut out that bulb socket and replace with a new one....not a used one from a junk yard.....there may be more than one bad socket. Use a new bulb also. Hope you are good with electronics and repairs. Be advised that there are almost 300 Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins on that type of vehicle.
Good luck.
Jack
We had weird turn signal flickering when braking or when lights were on issue.
Had to replace both left & right rear female pigtails. As middle Black connector was melted on both.
Jack
It's too bad GM will not admit to this common electrical problem.
My local GM dealer says "we never had anyone else with this problem".
My friends at the GM Technical Center tell me they have known of this problem for 12 years!
Jack
We are having some trouble with our 2006 Pontiac SV6. Suddenly all the power windows, power locks, and the rear backup sensor have stopped working. When we press the window up/down button we hear a clicking from the driver side dash. All other things seem to be working fine (radio,cd,dvd, dash lights, etc). Can someone please tell us what it could be? and How do we fix it? It sure would be good if we could get a Haynes manual for this model!
thank you so much!
I also just noticed that the rear window wiper is not working. We checked all fuses -- all seem to be fine.
stability control, abs system, tire inflation. Master mechanic checked and said they moved the harness slightly and secured it. However after the 2nd day of driving on a bad road with lots of bumps; the warning lights came on again intermittenly.
Will changing the complete harness solve the problems?
Looking for solutions.
Karibe
Jack
Now the air compressor won't shut off.
Any advice, I'm going to check connection under rear tire well to see if any wires are bad.
Thanks again to Jack & all posters, for all your help.
If it's the Shock Absorber Load Leveling Compressor, it could be:
1. rear leveling sensor is bad, causing the compressor to pump more air to try to fill the leveling shocks. or...
2. one of the 1/4 inch diameter air tubes from the compressor to the shocks is disconnected, broken or cracked...leaking air.
Jack