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Pontiac Montana Electrical Issues

135

Comments

  • 4pontiacs4pontiacs Member Posts: 3
    Hi,

    I have a 2000 Montana and when I had purchased this van (used) the rear quarter windows was working until I must have held the open/close button on the overhead console for too long.
    Since then nothing.
    I checked the switch carefully and the fuses and all checks out.

    Does anybody know what else i can check??
  • jhirneisenjhirneisen Member Posts: 64
    The rear quarter windows can have 2 types of problems:
    1. The windows can stick open because the little motors attached to each window go too far and get stuck. You will need to unscrew the window from the motor or control arm, then apply current to the motor...hopefully the motor will reverse itself. NEVER open the window all the way....it's another design flaw on this vehicle!
    2. Windows can refuse to open.....the window is stuck to the rubber molding. Detach the motor and arm from the window, smack the window from the inside with your hand, it should pop open, clean the window and rubber molding with warm water and a drop of liquid dishwashing soap, apply a light coat of silicon window molding spray to the rubber molding, reinstall motor and arm.
    Jack
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    For some good info (that might help your van), surf:

    http://www.misterfixit.com/dedbatt.htm
    Note: Needed to replace factory wire with a thicker wire.
    If wondering, I read about this wire replacement (with thicker wire) several different times. Thus, sounds like an undocumented "common" problem.

    http://answers.edmunds.com/ViewQuestion.aspx?questionId=44507&
    See TSB (Bulletin No.: 01-08-45-005E) on its reply.

    http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f101976
    Bad Alternator - it needed to be replaced.

    Hope this info helps...

    .
  • swolfswolf Member Posts: 2
    I had a 2000 and the I have the same thing. Its the fuel sending unit has to be changed.
  • ratpoisonnbroratpoisonnbro Member Posts: 9
    if that's the result of ground cable solved the battery charge, where does the cable goes from & to also what gauge of cable recommend as we have same :lemon: van & same :sick: problem?
    The service at deale accused the alternator twice on different times & i refused the part replacement.
    Let me know & thank
    Jesse
  • ratpoisonnbroratpoisonnbro Member Posts: 9
    where the (what gauge of) ground cable from & to? same problem w/close to 12 volts directly from old & new alternators & need help to get the van running so far we have to charge battery to drive local only. I know it's not the alternator & battery cause the battery service light goes on
    Jesse
  • spike99spike99 Member Posts: 239
    Think I've seen

    "10 inch piece of 10 gauge wire in place of the burned connector" at bottom of:

    http://www.misterfixit.com/dedbatt.htm

    Not too sure if this "fix" will resolve your vehicle's electrical problem. But, its worth reading....

    Hope this helps...

    .
  • jerrythebjerrytheb Member Posts: 1
    My wife has a 2002 Pontiac Montana. None of the interior dome lights are working. It just started a day or two ago, and the fuses are not blown. Any suggestions?
  • ponkabillponkabill Member Posts: 2
    I would like to find out how to display the codes that tell you what the problem is on my message center dash. I have heard that this is possible.
  • ratpoisonnbroratpoisonnbro Member Posts: 9
    go to auto parts store they can loan u equipment & codes will appear the saleman helps u out what the problem is...simple plug it in & run engine i don't know if guarantee to solve problem
  • ratpoisonnbroratpoisonnbro Member Posts: 9
    interior switch on overhead console is off? if not that, I dunno where else as I'm having charging system problem...PITA!!!
  • ratpoisonnbroratpoisonnbro Member Posts: 9
    have u find out if not, go back to windshield guy where the ground wire. big frustrations on needle in the hay
  • semis57semis57 Member Posts: 3
    Hi all, first of all I apologize for the windbag post.

    I have a 2008 Montana with a host of electrical gremlins. The most regular occurrence is a string of "failures" as indicated by all of the dash lights. After startup, the ABS, Traction control, Airbag, you name it, all the lights will cycle through indicating system failure. Now, since all these cannot (I hope) fail at once, the dealership said it is being caused by a "communucation loss".

    The problem usually resolves after a vehicle re-start. This has been going on for well over a year, shortly after we got the van with 19000 km on it.

    Another problem is the dash which will go out while driving. It happened for the first time in January 2009, where my wife thought the van had stalled while she was driving it. It took her a bit to figure out the whole dash was out, the van was not stalling. I have seen the problem too, and the appearance is the car is shut off- no speedo, no guages, no lights- nothing- dead.

    Now a third problem has started to crop up. The signal lights will not flash at regular intervals. When engaged, the speed of the clicking constantly changes, speeding up or slowing down at will. As well, the cruise control catches a cab at will, failing while driving at speed.

    Complicating this is the fact that we have an aftermarket remote car starter for our cold Canadian winters. It is a Compustar if it matters, installed by a reputable place that handles hundreds of installs for 2 GM dealerships near the place.

    The dealer I have been going to has automatically assigned all the aforementioned problems to the car starter. Easy for them, frustrating for me. One day the GM dealer disconnected the starter to see if the problems would still occur and they did. After reconnection, still having trouble. And with poor documentation, they deny they ever disconnected the starter, so there is no record the problems re- occured while disconnected.

    I had the van in to the car starter place, where the starter was checked, software updated, and given a clean bill of health. The guy was nice enough to offer his phone # to have the GM service tech call so they could get to the bottom of it. He says it's not the starter because they use a diagnostic pin, pin 2 on some module,
    to start the car. And, once started with key in ignition, the starter shuts down communication with the car- it is out of the system.

    Now, after all that, GM can't find a problem and still blames the starter. The codes, which I don't have, all indicated a "loss of communication". That is what I was told when the dash lights first failed, and it seems to follow with everything else- a U 1000 code.

    The car starter guy said the problems all seem to indicate Body Control Module or something related to it. He said it makes sense to him with the communucation losses and that the steering column controls like the cruise, run through the BCM as well.

    The dash light failure occurs more in cold than warm conditions, the dash failure occurs n matter the temp, as does the cruise/signal.

    I personally think it has nothing to do with the car starter given what was explained to me about it's operation. I am left in a lurch while the van is in the shop again, with GM still pointing at the starter. Any help with this trouble or any insight would be greatly appreciated.

    I'm leaning towards bad ground. ??? :sick:

    Thanks!
  • ratpoisonnbroratpoisonnbro Member Posts: 9
    The dealer kept saying it's the aternator twice...no way I know it's passed the tests few times & tried out new alternator...same result not charging the battery BUT I found "needle in the hay".
    I used (Continuing) multi tester checking the orange wire from alt to fuse panel & red wire from alt to computer. I found red wire damaged from vinyl harness cover right below the antifreeze reservior tank which sits on top of computer.
    after soldered wires & heat shrink tube, make sure end of vinyl cover being tie w/wire ties & tape all from end all way to alt & back.
    whewww i had 2 months (off & on search) patiences paid off & save bunches of $$$$$$$
    big help from multi tester...no read, wire is broken. :)
  • ratpoisonnbroratpoisonnbro Member Posts: 9
    Hope you all read my reply for those owners having same issue on battery not charging & dashboard lites flashing like XMAS lites. also check the fusible links nearby starters & wish I can help you w/your issue ;)
    I'm located in Yuma, AZ if you r closer, contact me here.
    Jesse
  • ratpoisonnbroratpoisonnbro Member Posts: 9
    check my reply next to your comment. bad ground is not the fact as I did checked all cables. Don't listen to wrong people making up the scraps just like someone from dealer told my brother (works at Napa Auto) there are no announcements (bulletin service)...another scrapes.
    hate to charge battery daily for next day short drives.
    Hope you or someone can do what I did myself making my lady happy as merry-go-round driver.
    Jesse
  • semis57semis57 Member Posts: 3
    So you're saying the wire was damaged, but hidden by the plastic loom covering? What year is your Montana? I'm trying to figure out how it could have got damaged as it is presumably all tied/clamped down.

    Thanks, when it comes back I will look under the antifreeze res.

    They did find a leaky hose going to rear heater core and are fixing it under the just-expired warranty.
  • ratpoisonnbroratpoisonnbro Member Posts: 9
    it's 2002 the wire was rubbed against vinyl harness cover where "T" wire harness located right by the air filter box(under reservior) but I can't say you have the same issue...tie/clamped down, but, NO, they are plainly taped as you can see that if you open the harness covers.

    Use the multi-tester checking every wires til you find "No read, it's broken" wire as I suspect the shop did damaged when the engine was replaced before my lady bought the van from dealer.

    You can't never trust the manufacture cuz we did leased new 2000 Montana, the wire harness was installed in wrong spot & burned it too close to exhaust manifold. I had to relocate it myself.
  • 2000montana2000montana Member Posts: 2
    i had similar problem,could jump start vehicle in mornin ddrivit all day next day dead as a door nail also had some dash indicator on all the time the recirc button an the the blowers front n rear would stay on with key off n switchs wer in on position but would turn off but if ya forgot ta turn em off well you kno any way removed heater control panrl under radio found a blue plug multi pin connector touchn bottom of radio moved it an wala these ptoblems were solved no more dead battery in mornin etc...but i also had a circuit breaker super hot the middle on that also disappeared but hav power seat n power door that useta work need ta find out wut happened any body got an answer
  • 2000montana2000montana Member Posts: 2
    REPLACED BODY CONTROL MODULE NO LUCK POWER LOCKS WILL NOT UNLOCK ALSO ,I DID USE A USED BCM,MAYBE, ITS NO GOOD EATHER
  • ulrika1ulrika1 Member Posts: 2
    My parents have a 2004 Montana with just under 63,000 miles. The fuel gauge always reads above the full mark regardless of the tank level. The needle is usually all the way over and resting on the temperature gauge. The temperature gauge works most of the time but occasionally will go directly up to hot (even if it's been sitting overnight and is completely cold). A mechanic checked it out but did not find a problem with the cooling system. Any advice before we turn this over to the dealer and pay way too much for repairs? Thanks,
  • ray80ray80 Member Posts: 1,655
    For the fuel gauge problem, for most vehicles it would be a problem with sensor in tank, may be that but could also be an issue with he c-305 connector (its a passthrough connector on floor behind drivers seat). I could guess the tep problem may be issue with temp sensor.
  • 2electrified2electrified Member Posts: 1
    The 2 power window switches on the driver side do not work on the drivers side front window nor on the passenger side front window. When you push the button(s) nothing happens. Now if you press the passengers side window switch - the window goes down slow and only moves about an inch then stops. What could be the problem? switch(es)? motor? Where should I start the troubleshooting process? Before the windows stopped working on the drivers side, the windows started to work slower than normal. You would have to press the window button, then depress the switch and press again to get the window going - but then it completly stopped working.

    Thank you
    Lisa
  • ulrika1ulrika1 Member Posts: 2
    The problem turned out to be the instrument cluster which had to be replaced. I called GM on my parent's behalf and they worked with us on an equitable compromise. I was pleased with the good customer service we received from GM.
  • ffnbbsffnbbs Member Posts: 1
    On here they talked about dash lights out, blowing fuses, not running lights, and chimes going off. We checked all the previous post and did not find the problem, Finally found a new problem that was causing all this and a fix for it. In the left rear fender well under the car by the air compressor if you have one, there is a connection for the towing package if you have one installed. We found this towing package control box from Drawtite had shorted out internally and melted and burned, there was a burnt smell in the area. It is winter and lots of snow here. It also burned wires in the area but were only for the towing connection. The fix, if you don't need to tow anything just unplug and remove the 6 to 9 foot bundle of wires going to the trailer connector and tape up plug in connector. It you tow things, you need to replace all of it.
  • kaykal_2004kaykal_2004 Member Posts: 1
    I had my cruise control on 67 radio up all the sudden, lost power, pushed gas got rpm's no acceleration. pushed brakes, pulling over car died. tried to start, puttered alot wouldnt go over 3 grand. Dyagnostic machine reads NO CODES at all. redid all gaskets and gromits on top end changed oil, anti-freeze, put together, new fluids, all connected, will crank but not fire? getting spark and gas. wants to start but wont. rented dyignostic machine no codes good or bad! just none!!! rechecked pcm alls good. #2 spark plug real wet, #4 kinda wet, #6 dry??? Any help before i pull 1,3 and 5 plugs cause thier a pain to get to???
  • djamontanadjamontana Member Posts: 1
    This switch broke this morning leaving window in down position. I heard a cracking sound (breaking plastic) when I tried to open the window. Clearly the switch is broken and I'll replace it. Can anyone suggest how to close the window (what connections to bridge on the cable?) I am reluctant to just hook a jumper between two points that I think are right; the switch unit has electronics and I'm just not sure how to proceed.
    Thanks,
  • 4pontiacs4pontiacs Member Posts: 3
    I would simply jump the middle post of the bottom of the switch to one of the posts beside it.
    I cannot say which post but dont keep the jumper on too long when testing in case you have the Window down post.
    A scrap yard will have a good spare part.
    You can indeed safely do this.
  • kadyekadye Member Posts: 1
    Ok so I have been told (without this person looking at it) that my current problem is a fried wiring harness. This is what's going on. All of my taillights and turn signals have stopped working. When the turn signal occasionally works, the clock and thing that tells me what direction I am going also blinks in time with the signal. When I step on the brake, both of those lights go completely out and the turn signal arrows light up on the dash until I take my foot off the brake.
  • jhirneisenjhirneisen Member Posts: 64
    Sounds like the dreaded rear tail-light short problem. This has been discussed several times on this Forum.
    The tail-light bulb SOCKET shorts out...between the black power lead and one or more of the other colored wires. The GM supplier used plastic that would not tollerate normal heat. Solution: check bulb sockets for melted / smelly plastic....cut out that bulb socket and replace with a new one....not a used one from a junk yard.....there may be more than one bad socket. Use a new bulb also. Hope you are good with electronics and repairs. Be advised that there are almost 300 Recalls and Technical Service Bulletins on that type of vehicle.
    Good luck.
    Jack
  • dancarsdancars Member Posts: 1
    Not sure how this forum works - but I have a 2000 Pontiac Montanna and when I turn on my lights, the dash board flickers - strobes really. Anyone else have issues like this?
  • mailmail Member Posts: 10
    Yep... same thing happened to me. There is a TSB on it and I replaced a screw on the side of my alt (that is accessible only by feel) that is about 2 mm longer than the one that you take out. Find the TSB and you'll find the proceedure and part you need. No garantee that it is this, but it was for me. $6 part. I'd have to say that when I did it it worked 100%.... after 3 years it occasionally does it but no where near what it was. Before you attempt yourself be certain you have the skill - I don't take any responsibility for you dropping the screw in the alt or misthreding, etc which could be very very expensive to repair ! My 2 cents anyway.
  • poortimpoortim Member Posts: 3
    are there any complicating factors to replace a battery on a Montana 2006 for an auto repair newbie?
  • mailmail Member Posts: 10
    If it is the same as a 2000 remove plastic black cover over the wiper blades, remove the crash bar over the battery (2+1 bolts) and slide out of fuse box, remove screws holding down fuse box and hold up with bungie (carefully not to kink anything), may have to remove temperature sensor or unplug just beside the rad, you should be able to get at the bolt to the batty on the back side (holds the battery down - might be rusted), remove the battery post screws, carefully slide out the battery (may need to tilt it on its side a bit). Its a pain in the [non-permissible content removed] job but youshould be able to get it out. Make damn sure you do NOT kink any wires - especially the think black presure tube running from the top of the engine to behind the battery. Good luck !
  • poortimpoortim Member Posts: 3
    edited June 2010
    so I replaced the battery (the instructions given were perfect) but it still will not start. It is like it is dead. But it starts with a jump cable boost. So I do not understand.
  • greg145greg145 Member Posts: 1
    Poortim, I have the same problem. I replaced the battery today but nothing. Did you find a solution?
  • pontownerpontowner Member Posts: 1
    Dash light will not go on,dimmer control will turn dome light on and off.
  • billy48billy48 Member Posts: 1
    Yesterday I locked the van with remote but when returned remote woould not work. After unlocking with key no inside lights , electric windows don't work ,radio quits when key is turned off and clock doesn't keep time.Any ideas what happened ?
  • freelancersamfreelancersam Member Posts: 1
    My pontiac montana power rear windows just quit closing is there a fuse that operates them that can be replaced or is there another explanation for it. I don't have the fuse panel diagram to look at or my book to the used vehicle can anyone help?
  • hcgeekhcgeek Member Posts: 2
    I signed up just to say Thank You for all the comments & great info.
    We had weird turn signal flickering when braking or when lights were on issue.
    Had to replace both left & right rear female pigtails. As middle Black connector was melted on both.
  • jhirneisenjhirneisen Member Posts: 64
    It might not be a fuse. The window itself sometimes sticks to the window rubber molding. Try taking the motor off of the window, then run the motor to see if it works. With the motor disconnected from the window you can use your hand to "pop" the window away from the rubber window gasket. Then clean the window where it meets the gasket, then apply a silicone spray on the gasket. The silicone will last about 6 months, so you must do this about every 6 months. I finally stopped using the window!!
    Jack
  • jhirneisenjhirneisen Member Posts: 64
    Glad to be of assistance.
    It's too bad GM will not admit to this common electrical problem.
    My local GM dealer says "we never had anyone else with this problem".
    My friends at the GM Technical Center tell me they have known of this problem for 12 years!
    Jack
  • ptrent2ptrent2 Member Posts: 4
    I have had the same issue with my rear tail lights as well. I was advised since GM won't do anything about it to spread some Di-electric (bulb grease) on both sides of the adapter and the pig tail. Have not had an issue for almost 6 months now. I do check it from time to time.
  • aludlamaludlam Member Posts: 2
    Hello all,

    We are having some trouble with our 2006 Pontiac SV6. Suddenly all the power windows, power locks, and the rear backup sensor have stopped working. When we press the window up/down button we hear a clicking from the driver side dash. All other things seem to be working fine (radio,cd,dvd, dash lights, etc). Can someone please tell us what it could be? and How do we fix it? It sure would be good if we could get a Haynes manual for this model!

    thank you so much!
  • aludlamaludlam Member Posts: 2
    added:

    I also just noticed that the rear window wiper is not working. We checked all fuses -- all seem to be fine.
  • karibekaribe Member Posts: 1
    I have a pontiac montana 6v6 2008. Several times the warning lights comes on:
    stability control, abs system, tire inflation. Master mechanic checked and said they moved the harness slightly and secured it. However after the 2nd day of driving on a bad road with lots of bumps; the warning lights came on again intermittenly.
    Will changing the complete harness solve the problems?
    Looking for solutions.
    Karibe
  • jhirneisenjhirneisen Member Posts: 64
    Might be the problem descibed many times before on this Forum.......bad rear tail light Pig-Tails (where tail lites plug into the wiring harness). The plug hot wire is shorting out with the other colored wires due to GM using inferior plastic plug that can't take the heat....melts! Part was built by an outside supplier. GM continues to deny this. Replace the Pig-tails...GM has the parts...about $45 per PIg-tail.
    Jack
  • hcgeekhcgeek Member Posts: 2
    Imagine that, fix one issue & another starts.
    Now the air compressor won't shut off.
    Any advice, I'm going to check connection under rear tire well to see if any wires are bad.
    Thanks again to Jack & all posters, for all your help.
  • jhirneisenjhirneisen Member Posts: 64
    Is it the Auxilary Air Compresor (used to fill tires, tubes and kids pool stuff) (if you have that option) or the Shock Absorber Load Leveling Air Compressor that is running?
    If it's the Shock Absorber Load Leveling Compressor, it could be:
    1. rear leveling sensor is bad, causing the compressor to pump more air to try to fill the leveling shocks. or...
    2. one of the 1/4 inch diameter air tubes from the compressor to the shocks is disconnected, broken or cracked...leaking air.
    Jack
  • ronkeyronkey Member Posts: 11
    Turn the key on,and push the accelerator pedal three times slowly,within 5 seconds,this will reset the oil change light.And napa auto parts has the fuel pump [non-permissible content removed],includes sending unit,for 242.00 dollars,and surely some one can do the job for 65.00 dollars or so.
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