Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair

1585961636480

Comments

  • ramzey28ramzey28 Member Posts: 130
    I have an 04 Pacifica which my check engine light went on this week for the first time, I went to the dealer and he went straight to my gas tank cover. He tightened my gas cap and said most likely it was that but it would take about 2 days for the light to reset. Has not been two days so light has not come off yet. Not sure if it is truly the problem, we will see and post back. He said with most cars now a days they are extremely sensitive and this was a common issue. I have never experienced it before but who knows. Not sure if that helped.
  • lkiershlkiersh Member Posts: 3
    I have the same problem with my temperature reading. I also wonder where the sensor is. I just read it and shake my head.
  • 02tribute202tribute2 Member Posts: 1
    Great information. Where is the IAC on the motor?
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    The IAC is located on '01-'03 models on the top of engine (visible) near the air intake. It's an aluminum looking small cylinder with bolt attachments (2) with
    an electrical connection. It takes all of 5-minutes to change. Undo the the two-bolts holding it in place, disconnect the electrical connector, take-off, reverse order to install.
  • tac139tac139 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2005 Escape XLT FWD, it has had a terrible brake noise, a moaning of sorts, very loud, coming from the front. This occurs mainly when backing, after you have stopped, and starting up again. I traded in a 2001 Escape and it never made this noise. I was first told it would go away as I put miles on the car. After 600 miles I still had this noise, "antilock brakes make that noise" I was told. Maybe it is excessive they say, they bleed the brakes, make some adjustments and when I pick it up, the same noise and now a popping noise coming from the rear when the car is actually stopped and the brake pedal seems to lose it's pressure. They now replace the power booster, some switches, the actual brake pedal and I am still getting the noise, lack of pressure etc. Has anyone experienced this problem?? I am being told again that is the nature of the new antilock brakes, all Escapes are like that. Is this true???
  • stigstig Member Posts: 4
    I have a 2005 Tribute, which is essentially the same vehicle, with 10,000 km I have never had any wierd noise from the brakes. Antilock brakes does not make any 'moaning' noise, the only thing you should notice is a slight pulsation when you apply the brake really hard. I think you should take it to another dealer for a second opinion, lack of pressure is scary stuff. Your warranty is good at any Ford dealer.
  • turtoniturtoni Member Posts: 9
    theres creaking when i first move off after being parked. but i've noticed that sound in a lot of vehicles when they move off after being parked. think thats pretty typical in an "SUV". i can feel vibrations through the acceleration pedal more than i'm used to but not anything concerning. if the brakes pulsate when you brake *hard* it's because the ABS is kicking in.

    turtoni
  • tac139tac139 Member Posts: 2
    I have an appointment tomorrow at another Ford dealer, we will see what they find or don't find. Thanks for your input.
  • radavis_5195radavis_5195 Member Posts: 1
    Jay,

    I was wondering if you figured out what the problem was with your daughter's car. I have a daughter that is away at school and she is experiencing the same exact problem. Were going to have to have a garage fix it and I'm a little concerned with what the bill might look like.
  • ramzey28ramzey28 Member Posts: 130
    Sounds like warped rotors....can be common for a car that has sat on a lot.
  • pvgomerpvgomer Member Posts: 1
    I just got me an 05 v6 2wd overall i like the car and the way it handles, the only thing i hate about this car is gas mileage, however i have noticed that for some reason the first half of the gas tanks finishes really really quickly and the other half seems to be were it should be. i am thinking about setting up an appoinment to take my car in and see if there is a problem with the pump or maybe the puter needs reprograming. :P
  • burner7burner7 Member Posts: 17
    Hi, all. I own a 2003 Escape Limited 2WD with around 25k miles on it. So far, the car's been great. Just enough room for me (6 foot1) to sit comfortably. Plenty of power with the V6 engine, as well as plenty of room on the inside. Although I love the Escape, there have been three main issues I've had with the car.
    1. At around 15k miles, my horn somehow became demasculated and started to sound like a bicycle horn. Took it to the dealer and had it fixed.
    2. 6-CD-in-dash player will oftentimes "eat" the CD, and not spit it out. I keep a useless blank cd around when this happens so I can scrape the stuck CD out.
    3. About a month ago, the interior siding on my passenger door (the area that contains the door handle) has fallen off! It just dangles as I ride, revealing an unsightly area in the car. So far, I've tried using glue and tape to hold it up, but to no avail. They are only temporary solutions. Ford dealership will not fix it, and I don't know how else to fix it myself. Any suggestions? Anyone else experience this as well? :confuse:
  • mergzmergz Member Posts: 2
    Re your 2003 Escape 6 CD Player. I had mine replaced, because during the winter the unit would over heat and the CD's would warp and not be able to eject. Like you I used the same trick as you to get them out, but eventually the whole unit failed, hence my desire to replace it. It was covered under the warranty so I can't complain. My brother in-law tells me they had similar problems in the Explorer decks, and have since gone to having a fan to cool the console so the heat does not build up and warp the disks.

    With regard to your door siding. I have a similar problem with the interior liner of the door. All the clips that hold the damn thing in place have fallen out of the bottom. I guess I will have to spring for the clips to replace them, but I feel that Foird should engineer a better product. I have resorted to some foam tape in the interim to stop the rattle of the panel when the bass from the stereo speaker hits the right frequency.
  • burner7burner7 Member Posts: 17
    thanks for the response...was the replacement covered under warranty? because I could not duplicate it for the Ford technician, they would not fix it.

    Yeah, about the door siding, I'll try what you suggested. I'm peeved as well; Ford SHOULD build a better product. The car is fine mechanically, engine-wise and such...I just wish it were as well-tuned on the inside...

    Thanks again.
  • val3val3 Member Posts: 1
    i own a 2005 4I auto--it is new 6-17-05--trans leaking fluid--replaced seals--still leaking fluid--replaced trans--the mazda has been with the dealer 6wks--when i drove it the idle was rough--dealer replaced idle assy---idle in gear still rough---any suggestions?---dealer said it was normal---i drove another like tribute with no idle problems
  • sunnyaroonsunnyaroon Member Posts: 1
    I started having problems with my wheel bearings close to 50,000 miles, but couldn't figure out what the noise was. It may have been sooner, because everyone said that it sounded wierd. Mazda Tribute 2002 DX V6 replaced the front driver wheel bearing and at 51,000 miles the axle broke and a wheel fell off and Mazda wouldn't cover the cost. I had it fixed and now the front passenger wheel fell off while driving. Luckily no one was hurt beware I think this car is a lemon. I dropped it off at the dealer yesterday and will have to contact my attorney!
  • arminianarminian Member Posts: 3
    I posted this in the wrong folder, so I'm reposting it here.....I'm interested in help with the 12v acc outlet in my Escape. I blew it out by using a malfunctioning inverter while working on a project. I've checked every fuse in the vehicle, including replacing the acc relay and it still doesn't work. I've taken apart the outlet itself and it appears that there is no current to the wires that connect to it. Is there in inline fuse, or is there another thing I can look at?
  • arminianarminian Member Posts: 3
    I've got a 2001 with 100,000 on and off road miles on it and I've had the same problem several times since I first bought the vehicle (new). The first repair was by the Ford dealer and was inexpesive, if I remember correctly. I've been driving with the light on for almost two years now, so I would also like a solution to this problem. Otherwise the vehicle has been fantictic. Hoperfully, it will go 340,000 miles like my 1991 escort did before it was broadsided.
  • moody2moody2 Member Posts: 1
    I have Escape 02-V6-AWD 55K with towing package. In town, it often sounds like my suspension is "bottoming out". It reminds me of riding in my friends old Corvette. On the highway I do not hear the noise.
  • bob_mcbobbob_mcbob Member Posts: 9
    I have a 2005 Tribute GT (Canadian), and I find the door and central console panelling excessively creaky. The rear doors are rock solid, but the front ones move quite a bit and make creaking noises when pressed on. I noticed the plastic doesn't actually meet the door - there's maybe a half mm gap between the two. The central console also moves quite a bit. I'm fairly tall (6'4), so my legs touch both while I'm driving, and all the creaking drives me nuts. I'm wondering if this is normal for Tributes, or if the panelling is possible installed incorrectly.

    A couple of other things: Like a previous poster, I've also noticed the loud braking noises when I first back out of the driveway, but I'm not really sure if it's a problem (anti-lock brakes do sound like that, but they don't usually make so much noise in that situation). The suspension is also a little weird. I hear loud clunking noises if I go over bumps and such. Also, the rear shocks squeak occasionally when I get in and out of the car (that is a minor annoyance though, and I'll have it looked at some time).
  • dchevalierdchevalier Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2002 Mazda Tribute. Recently I have had issues when I go to crank the car. When I crank it, it will try to crank, but then it will die. It has only done this twice. After the first time, I took it to the dealership who couldn't find anything wrong with it. They said that they would have to keep it until it did it again, in order to diag. it. When I contacted my extended warranty, they said they wouldn't provided me with a rental car unless something needed to be fixed on the vehicle. Has anyone else had this issue of the car acting like it won't crank, but after about 5 or 10 mins and a few pushes on the gas, it finally cranks?

    Please help!!!

    Denise :confuse:
  • jmc1007jmc1007 Member Posts: 4
    I just bought this SUV last month. Been driving for a month without no problem. I've been reading about previous problems posted here. It has 67k miles. Runs great, but during the last few days having to turn the ignition 2 or 3 times for it to start. Now today after going to the store...nothing. It does not even click the engine. All the electrical works great. The car never did loose power WHILE driving. With out having to read through all the post, any suggestions? Is there a recall for this, something that can be replaced, the battery, starter, fuses? Thx for any response.
  • blakeescapeblakeescape Member Posts: 8
    Have a 2001 Escape with 61K miles, doing the same crank problem. Works fine in the morning, but when it sits in the heat it takes a few cranks to start. Just got a new battery as well. Gonna try cleaning the corrosion off to see if that helps. Other than that, I would love some suggestions as to whats the problem. Thanks in advance.
  • burner7burner7 Member Posts: 17
    I've had my Escape for about 3 years now. About a year into my owning it, I experienced the cranking issues. It would take a few cranks and pushing on the gas in order to get it to come to life. Then I'd have to quickly put the car in drive before it would die again. This happened only a few times, and hasn't happened since.

    The same thing happened on my Explorer Sport Trac...Happened a couple times in the earlier stages of owning the car, then nothing afterwards. Maybe this symptom runs in the family... Is this happening every time you try to start it?
  • jmc1007jmc1007 Member Posts: 4
    Replying to my own msg here, but: I found out the problem is with the keyless entry. But it works fine now. I'm happy with the SUV overall so far. I don't know if the previous owner had all the recalls fixed or not.
  • jmc1007jmc1007 Member Posts: 4
    I was wondering if your problem is with starting the car after you turn the ignition switch..does it even turn over or click or anything? I have a similiar problem with my 2001 Escape, it won't turn over but all the electrical works. Never have had a problem though with it loosing idle or motor stopping while driving. I found out if I click my keyless entry a couple of times (lock, unlock), it will start. Weird.

    Mike
  • jmc1007jmc1007 Member Posts: 4
    I purchased a used 2001 XLT last month and I have the same problem with starting. I found out if I clikc the unlock and lock buttons on my keyless entry a couple of times, it will start. Weird I know, but it works. Must be something to do with the keyless entry wiring system. Were you able to solve your problem yet?

    Mike
  • blakeescapeblakeescape Member Posts: 8
    It only occasionally has the crank problem...never in morning, always when it sits in the heat in the parking lot for a long time. Its only the been the past 3 days it has done this. It never has a problem when it starts, and usually starts again fine right after driving. I cleaned the corrosion off the battery terminals, but there wasn't much there in the first place. It started fine after that but wasn't sitting in the heat for that long....I'll post if it continues...
  • vikstervikster Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Ford Escape that has 10,000 miles on it. Ever since I bought it, every so often, not all the time, when driving between 0-45 mph in slow traffic I have noticed a very high pitch whistle sound as the wheel is turning. It stops when I hit the brake or go over 50 mph and will not do it for days, but it does it every so often. Its very loud and is something to do with the wheel area because as I increase speed it increases. Any idea? I am taking it in tomorrow, but the dealer has really been giving me a hard time, since they can't just take it out, drive it and hear it, because it does not happen all the time.
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    If you use the e-brake when you park for long periods of time a pad could be sticking shut. Usually depressing the brake pedal all the way a couple of times in a row will free it up.
  • pascalrpascalr Member Posts: 1
    I am now experiencing the same problem with the bearings. I also own a 2002 Tribute. The LX model. I brought it in for its regular service and ask that they diagnose the noise in the front end. They returned the car to me and said that i needed a new set of tires. I then asked a back yard mechanic for a second opinion and he informed me that it was definitely the drivers side wheel bearings. A Licensed mechanic at a private garage imediatlely told me the same thing after he drove it. My wife and I have been lied to and deceived by Mazda dealers from all across Ontario and Manitoba on different issues. Gerry Gordon's Mazda (Winnipeg). Mid City Mazda. (Sudbury). Target Motors (Thunder Bay). Destination Mazda (Winnipeg) :mad:
  • escapenutescapenut Member Posts: 117
    All,

    Hard-start problems may be a result of the IAC (I just changed mine again, $48.00 from the car parts shop. Do not buy aftermarket parts, only Mororcraft). They get real gummy with carbon build-up and are useless after that or until cleaned. I cleaned my old one and replaced it with the new one. I'll keep the old as a spare.
    A lot of IAC's probably need replacing, unless there are really battery or starter problems. Mine starts like a champ, but again I'll probably remove the new IAC to clean it in about another 25K miles. It is or seems to be a more Ford specific problem. The induction throttle plateand surrounding area may also need to be
    cleaned. It's worth 30-min. of your time to do this, but make sure you wear safety glasses, gloves, and have rags to wipe out the carbon residue from the induction or throttle-throat. Also, only use use throttle plate cleaner that is safe for teflon-coated plates. It'll say on the can. I've used 3M brand with good success.

    It may also be that the computer program has not been upgraded on the recall program done for I believe '01's - '04's. A Ford / Mazda dealership should be able to tell with their diagnostic tool if it's been done by your VIN #. If it hasn't been done, you should get the EPROM update for free from Ford / Mazda.

    I'm not a mechanic by any means, but I bought my '01 Escape XLT new and have babyed this vehicle liek no other. I still had some of same issues others seem to be having at present. Wait till you have to change out the alternator, that's a chore for the pros. Cost me $475; tow to shop, $195 alternator, and 2-hrs. labor, because the passenger-side half shaft has to be removed, control-arm dropped, and alternator dropped from below. The shop messed up at some point, the rubber half-shaft boot was blown, resulting in half-shaft rebuild (at their expense) and I've still got a noise from the front-right suspension. It doesn't bother me that much anymore though; there seem to be no permanent problems.
  • brutus5brutus5 Member Posts: 3
    At 40,000 My Escape developed a transmission shutter when shifting out of overdrive. The dealer did all the normal things dealers do, The first visit was "couldn't feel it", #2 visit was a bill for $360 to replace 1 plug and coil (Shutter didn't change) #3 visit was to inform me it was typical and I should ignore it #4 visit was to re program the shift points for $250 (an interesting approach to the problem---It wouldn't shift into overdrive).visit #5 was to undo the previous 'repair' and return my money or else (still pending).
    I am in the process of replacing the Escape with a foreign car
  • david40david40 Member Posts: 5
    you saved my [non-permissible content removed], I am having the no start problem. 3 times in the last two months. 2002 tribute es. after reading this site I thought I would see if the vehicle would run without the IAC valve, so I unplugged it -it did not run. so I plugged it back in--it did not run then either!!! but I remembered your post about how to have the IAC relearn its idle. I tried your procedure and it worked. life is good, I am back to waiting for the original "no start" to occur. many thanks
  • bob_mcbobbob_mcbob Member Posts: 9
    Any thoughts on my comments? I'd like some feedback, as I may bring them up next time my Tribute is in for maintenance.
  • jlagerqujlagerqu Member Posts: 1
    Did you get any answers to your park shift and electrical problem message? My son had the gear shift in his 1994 Corolla get stuck in park and the brake lights went out as well. He replaced the burned fuse associated with the gear shift and the new one blew as well.

    Thanks,
    Jim
  • blakeescapeblakeescape Member Posts: 8
    Ya man, thanks for the lengthy discription on the IAC. I am not having problems anymore, but all I did was clean the battery terminals of all the corrosion though there wasnt much. It never does it at all anymore (the slow starting). I think maybe its posslible resetting the computer helped it..dunno. But I am really glad to have a back-up plan (IAC) just in case. Thanks again. :D

    -Blake
  • shannonthisshannonthis Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2005 Ford Escape I was wondering if anyone knew anything about automatic locks on this car. Other ford cars and many other makes that I have driven in the past have all had an automatic locking system that locks the doors when the car moves past a certain speed or when the car is put into gear. I noticed recently that the escape is not doing that. Is this something that is not on the escape or is there something wrong with my car? Anyone who knows anything I would really appreciate the help. :)
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    The automatic locks you are describing are not a feature on the 2001-2006 Escapes.
  • by58by58 Member Posts: 4
    Strange; I've driven 2004's and 2005's, and now own a 2006 Escape -- and the doors all locked automagically when I put it in gear and drive.
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    Not in the U.S. versions they don't. If yours do then something is wrong or you're driving an Explorer.
  • bc60bc60 Member Posts: 17
    I have a 2004 Tribute and it doesn't have automatically locking door locks.
  • by58by58 Member Posts: 4
    Think I should tell my dealer I have the wrong badge on the vehicle? ;)

    Seems we're both right. :D

    'AutoLock' is a feature that is factory installed and is standard with Power Door Locks. There is a procedure to disable it, so if you do have the key-fob keyless entry then it is likely just disabled. I found the info in my Owner's Guide on page 80.
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    Where are you from by58? My '05 manual has no information about the "AutoLock" feature. Are you driving a U.S. version of the Escape?
  • drurex99drurex99 Member Posts: 10
    Anyone know how to replace a blown fog light? Do you have have to drop the bumper? Thanks for any info.
  • by58by58 Member Posts: 4
    I'm in SE PA; unit final assembly was Kansas City, and the manual was printed March 2005 in the USA with Ford P/N 6L8J-19A321-AA.

    The Autolock is in the "Locks and Security" section; it is an Option, but should still be in the '05 manual someplace.

    I also used an '05 last year when my other vehicle was sidelined in the shop, and it too locked up when starting off. I also had a GM car -- didn't like that all the doors unlocked when you shut off the ignition or triggered the key-fob.
  • david40david40 Member Posts: 5
    I was focused on the "pats" system, removed the idle air connector to see if it was working--do not do that unless you have read the post here on how to have the engine relearn its idle.. It started after removing the connector but ran poorly, chugged and stalled, did not help to just plug the idle connector back in :) . it had refused to start 3 times before in the past week, but did start after about 1/2 hour wait, on the 4th time it did not start and was towed to a private repair center. after testing they indicated the problem was the fuel pump, which they replaced and the vehicle has run fine the past 4 days--not totally convinced yet, but the vehicle has been starting fine. only 36000 miles but 37 days past warranty, approx $700 repair
  • baggs32baggs32 Member Posts: 3,229
    Yep, you're right! I checked another forum, dedicated to the Escape, and it does seem that JOB2 '05 Escapes and on have the auto lock feature. I have a JOB1 '05 Escape and it definitely does not have the feature which explains why my manual says nothing about it either as it was most likely printed in early 2004. We bought this Escape in June of 2004.

    FWIW, other features added to the JOB2 '05's include the storage bin under the cargo floor (optional), and a slightly different gauge cluster. Our Limited does have a full size spare but I think all JOB2's received a doughnut. Correct me if I'm wrong.
  • by58by58 Member Posts: 4
    Yeah -- and 'Safety' is Job1, huh? :confuse:

    I've had a '93 Taurus and a '98 Windstar before this '06 Escape, and thought that was a standard feature with the power-lock system. It is a good safety feature -- I 'lost' a kid out the rear door of a '68 Impala turning a corner once. Good job it was winter and he was bundled up for sledding; my backend slipped out and poof he was gone. Scared heck out of us, but he didn't have any bumps or scratches -- his other friends all wanted to try it too!

    I have the donut -- couldn't see paying the extra for the full size as I'm in the city/suburbs and repairs are easy to get.

    Thanks for the info. :shades:

    by58
  • tnntnn Member Posts: 4
    I need help with engine pinging on my new Escape. It's a V-6, automatic and pings using 87 octane, going up slight hills. The dealer cannot pick up any errors in the computer and barely acknowleges there is a problem.
    The say if no computer errors and still pinging then that's the way it is.
    Does anyone else experience engine pinging?

    Thanks
Sign In or Register to comment.