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I will never buy another Ford vehicle. My Dodge Ram has a 7 year/ 70,000 mile Powertrain warranty. UNBELIEVABLE
Again Thank-you
The dealer is telling me there's nothing they can do about it except wait until the part is available (they claim the part is too new, so the manufacturer is not even making it yet so it could be months from now), and they have never seen an Escape Hybrid with this problem.
Has anyone else experienced this smart junction box or door lock problem? I'm very frustrated and wondering how to handle this issue.
Thanks!
thx
Thanks..
thx!!
Steve, Host
Hope Ford comes through with some help on the replacement for you.
Steve, Host
1. At 15k the switch for the sunroof was slow to respond.
2. At 55k, the $1,300 dealer installed DVD player crapped out.
3. At 65k, the air bag light went on, costing $105 for the diagnostic and $485 for new seat belt air bag resistors.
4. At 78k, the O/D light flashes, and now I have a $3,100 tranny to fix.
I never fixed the switch for the sunroof, which would have been the only thing under my basic warranty. Then again, I was happy until 55k, and I didn't mind pushing the button 3 times to get the sunroof open. Now it is a constant reminder of my poorly built FORD vehicle. :lemon:
Can someone please give me their advise of what I am up against? I bought a used 2002 escape 4x4 manual transmission and 4 cyl engine It has 22,800 miles on it. It has been a very good vehicle for the last year. This week I noticed it being jerky and lunging as if I was in the wrong gear for the speed I am travelingand the check engine light came on. This only happens when I am using cruise control or slightly accelerating to keep an even speed. It is fine if i am accelerating at about 3k rpm and shifting. The only thing I have done diffrently recently was to fill up with BP gas.
Also can anyone let me know of any recalls that may be out there for the escape? is there a website I can go to to find out? How can I tell if my vehicle has recievied all the recalls it may have.
Thank You
Steve, Host
Changing the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve on my 2001 Escape (with just over 100,000) wasn't much harder than changing a battery. I obtained the replacement part at my local auto parts store. NB: the valve does NOT come with a gasket so be sure to order one at the same time.
While I had the cowling off, I changed the throttle position switch as well. (Two Philips head screws!) Note that this device, which is spring loaded, needs to be rotated slightly upward (the electrical connector faces 3:00 (horizontal) when attached, 2:00 when removed and replaced.) These two cost me $78.
Suggestion: Don't bother removing and just cleaning the IAC. When the starting gets a little touchy, replace it!
Good luck.
eddy
Any help much appreciated.
I have not changed the IAC unit yet.
Furthermore, do I need new gaskets for the upper and lower intake when I change the remaining plugs?
FYI (One tranny later, no probs yet... 52000mi 2 years/ago)
Love the site.
I would be grateful for some assistance.
I live in Samoa over in the southern hemisphere about 3-4 hours flying time from New Zealand. We drive on the same side of the road as you guys in USA so a lot of our vehicles are imported old and new from the states.
I just bought a tribute 2001 2.0L engine and have found some similar problems of idling as many of you. but feel the engines being talked about are the v6.
So my problem....
The check light is on and the mechanics anaylser and haynes code book says PO 402 which we assume is correct for the mazda code of "too much flow" in the EGR valve.
The engine also periodically won't idle and this seems to happen when hot and frequently started in short spaces of time. When left to cool off for say 2 hours it's ok till the next time. We have replaced the EGR valve, making no difference. So I was reading about this ICV and wondering if this could be my problem. All my parts need to come from the states so am starting at this forum to see what others may have done.
Thank you steve
G
I stopped @ the local ford dealer service, askes what fluid they would use. He replied regular mercon. Told him that fluid was changed using merc v, he made a face and said damage could occur. STS called dealer and was told mercon v is a sutiable replacement for mercon, I said; only not for the CD4E trans.
tidester, host
But they stop blinking when I turn on the regular lights on. Has this happend to anyone yet? Or does anyone know what might be the problem?