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Nissan Quest/Mercury Villager Electrical Problems



  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Glad to hear it.

    My '97 Outback's alarm has gone crazy on me a few times this winter and it's so frustrating I almost ripped it out a couple of times. But I like the fobs and on that car, the fobs won't work if the alarm is disabled.

    btw, I've seen people say they got replacement Villager/Quest fobs off eBay for under $10 although I've never priced them myself.
  • Can anyone give me step by step- ball joints replacement on a 98 mercury villager. Is it a long job ? a difficult job? do i need any special tools? Thanks..
  • Hello,
    here I am again ...
    Did anyone ever successfully reprogram a new key fob for a 99 villager?
    The instructions say that you have to be inside the car with all doors locked.
    With this, insert and remove the key into the ignition 6 times. Then the tail lamps will flash, turn the key to ACC and then press any button on the transmitter.
    I cannot get to the first milestone with the flashing tail lamps.
    One thing: I do not have original Mercury keys - I have only 3rd party keys (but they work fine).
    Does anyone know if the original key contains anything which the replacement key might not?
    Any other ideas/recommendations?

  • Follow these instructions carefully. Your copied key should work fine. There is nothing special about the original keys.

    Programming keyless entry remotes for the Quest and Villager:

    1. Close and lock all doors.
    2. Insert key into ignition and remove it at least 6 times within 10
    seconds. (Instrument panel lamps, side marker lamps, tail lamps, and license
    plate lamp will flash twice).
    3. Insert key and turn to ACC position.
    4. Push any button on the remote controller once. (Instrument panel lamps,
    side marker lamps, tail lamps, and license plate lamp will flash twice).
    At this time, the remote controller is programmed into the vehicle. Any old
    codes will have been erased.
    5. To program any additional remotes, unlock and lock the doors with
    the power lock button on the driver's door. Repeat step 4. Up to 4
    remotes can be programmed into the vehicle.
    6. To end programming mode, open the driver's door.

    If your van doesn't have keyless entry, you won't get past step 2.
  • Thank you for this fast reply,
    I still cannot get past step 2.
    my van has keyless entry as the old key fob worked well until it broke; it did not open the car (internal contacts were broken) and the repair shop guy dumped it. He thinks the control module is bad- but is not sure.
    Unfortunately I have no way to recover the old key fob and try to fix the contacts.
    A new control unit would cost me $600, SO I want to be very sure that this is the problem.
    Is there no other way to diagnose the problem?
  • I read the procedure in the '99 service manual and it is worded slightly different. Try it this way first:

    1. Close and lock all doors.

    2. Insert key into and remove it from ignition key cylinder more than six times within 10 seconds. (Lamps will flash twice.)
    Note: -Key should be withdrawn from ignition key cylinder completely each time.
    -If procedure is performed too fast, system will not enter registration mode.

    3. Insert ignition key into ignition key cylinder and turn to ACC position. Original (previous) ID codes are now erased.

    4. Push any button on remote controller once. (Lamps will flash twice.) Remote controller ID code is now entered.

    5. Unlock and open driver's door. (Lamps will flash twice as a termination reminder.)

    If that doesn't work, you should check all the relevant fuses. Download the service manual for the '99 Quest here:

    If all the fuses check out, and you're convinced the "smart entrance control unit" is bad, I suggest getting one from a junkyard. One from a Villager or a Quest will work fine, and it doesn't necessarily have to be a '99.

    Good luck!
  • the dash and radio lights come on when i hit the brake pedal, could it be behind the radio? or ?
  • Go to the back of the van and remove the brake light bulbs. Look at the base of each bulb, you might find that the 2 pads of solder have melted and shorted together. This can cause the voltage to backfeed to other circuits. If so, replace the bulbs.

    Good luck!
  • Sounds like its time to give up on the villager with all its electrical probs. Well villager owners, this is my last entry as Im trading my 98 villager in for a 07Nissan Altima. I wanna thank all who have helped me bandage my villager up these last few years. My 98 Villager which i bought new has been a wonderful van upto the last 2 years. Well, at 304,000 kms i guess its to be expected, to all those still clinging on to theirs, best wishes.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    Enjoy the new ride!

    We're still hanging on to our '99 Quest at 125,000 miles, but more stuff is bound to happen when cars get up there in years and miles. This is the first year we've had to dump any money into the van at all.

    Steve, visiting host
  • you were right, the bottom of the brake light bulb, was fused to the marker light part of the bulb. Thanks alot
  • gap2thgap2th Posts: 1
    i have a 2000 mercury villager and everytime i open my doors my hazards flash and everytime i start my van up the back windshield wiper vibrates or if i try to turn on the back wiper it vibrates. does anyone know what the problem is?
  • smile100smile100 Posts: 20
    Nissan had issued a service bulletin regarding this. The main cause is the dirt built up around the belt D-ring. Use dental floss to clean up will do. I did this a couple of months ago and it hasn't bothered me since.

    Check Nissan's NTB01-005a for more details.
  • jr714jr714 Posts: 24
    Hi, I have a 2002 Quest SE with around 50K miles which I have owned, mostly trouble-free for about 3 years. Within the past few months I started using a windshield mounted GPS unit.

    After about 1 month, the GPS unit stopped working. I checked and it was the power outlet, which had a burned out fuse. I replaced the fuse with a new one, and that fixed the problem (or so it seemed.)

    When I replaced the fuse, I noticed something strange: there was a separate wire connected to that fuse. After replacing the fuse, I attempted to re-connect the wire, but I could not figure out how to do it. The Haynes manual makes no mention of it. All functions in the vehicle seemed to work fine, so left it off and forgot about it. Then a few days later I noticed the auto-dimming rearview mirror with built in compass wasn't functioning, so I figured that was the only function of the extra wire. I can live without that anyway.

    THEN my GPS system stopped working again, and this time it was the fuse inside the GPS' car charger! I replaced that, and again everything seemed OK. THEN the GPS failed again, and all fuses are fine. SO - it must have been the GPS unit all along, right? So I sent the GPS unit back to the manufacturer for a replacement.

    THEN the other day I plugged my sister's GPS unit, same brand, same model, with my car charger, into my car's power outlet. And then her GPS unit failed! SO I called the manufacturer of the GPS unit to send me a new unit AND a new car charger.

    I will say this: At other times in the past, I have felt that the power outlets do not function correctly. There have been times when they just did not work, and times which I'm sure they have damaged things plugged into them. But almost all the time, they seem to work fine. Also, at times in the past, the radio and windshield wipers have suddenly stopped working, but soon after they were fine. My wife swears that just happened last week, but I haven't seen it happen in years. Are we going crazy, or is there some issue with power coming and going on these vans? Could white-flaked battery terminals cause these types of problems? My battery always develops the white flakes very shortly after I clean it.

    Has anyone heard of any crazy stories with the Quest's power outlet? Could there be something wrong with the outlet that causes it to damage things? Is there anything in the electrical system I can check to see what may be causing these problems?

    Thanks a lot for any help.
  • smile100smile100 Posts: 20
    My 1999 Nissan Quest GXE has this left-side power window switch problem. The switch to control the driver-side window only lets the window down. I tried to dissemble the switch but couldn't. Finally, I am ordering part from and waiting its arrival.

    In the meantime, I tried some tricks to jump the wiring harness to close the driver-side window and it worked. Here are the tricks:

    1. Once you have removed the switch from the wiring that goes into the door, orient the wiring harness horizontally so that the black wiring (ground) is in the upper left. Starting at the lower left, count to the right from 1-7. Start again at the top with 8 being the black wire through to 12 (between 10 to 11, there are two empty slots).

    2. Front driver window (left front): To open, jump 1 & 9, and 2 & 8. To close, jump 1 & 2, and 8 & 9.

    3. Front passenger window (right front): To open, jump 1 & 6, and 7 & 8. To close, jump 1 & 7, and 6 & 8.

    4. Door Locks: To unlock, jump 8 & 11. To lock, jump 8 & 12

    1 = Positive (orange with black stripe)
    8 = Ground (negative - black)

    Hope these info will help you guys to diagnose the circuits to identify which part is broken.
  • smile100smile100 Posts: 20
    A follow-up from my previous post.

    I got my part today. Disappointed, the unit doesn't have power door lock switch. Otherwise, everything works fine. An advice: when buying part from, 25401-V41001 is the correct one. In fact, 25401-V41003 should not be put on that sale page since 1999 Nissan Quest GXE has power door as standard equipment. By all means, 25401-V41003 is an inadequate part for Nissan Quest 1999+.

    If you don't care the color difference, try

    Anyway, I still installed it. The lack of power door lock switch doesn't bother me except a cosmetic appearance defect.

    By the way, after installation, I broke my old switch. I found out it's not a carbon built-up problem. It seems like excess heat melted the contact plastic legs, so it could not push the switch. I think this is a design defect. Also, no way you can dissemble the switch, it's irreversible. Only way to fix the problem is to buy a new one to replace it.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    I was traveling last week and just now saw your post. The switches really aren't made to be disassembled although I had one to practice on and was able to get the second one working without destroying the switch.

    The part number on the old "Genuine Nissan Parts" box I have that my '99's replacement switch came I says Switch Assy - Power Window Main 25401-7B112.

    When I search at Courtesy for it, the part shows up as "un-categorized" but available.
  • smile100smile100 Posts: 20
    I just checked my old part which has part number (25401-7B111, for Beige interior) on it. does have this part but costs $96. I think 25401-V41001 will do the work but is cheaper.

    Oddly, the color difference (beige/dark gray) makes the almost $20 price difference. :mad:
  • steverstever Posts: 52,683
    makes the almost $20 price difference

    Especially for a switch that should never fail anyway, much less fail as often as Quest ones of that era do.

    This week I get to look forward to replacing an O2 sensor or worse - something failed 2 weeks ago and triggered the CEL and is making the van run rough. $96 will probably look cheap by the time I get it to pass IM this time around. :sick:

    Steve, visiting (and grumbling) host
  • bought car  new 2000 leftover in 2001 3 time brought car back to dealer for head light going out  3 times they said  they fixed something   last time was 2005  still having same problem spoke to regional supervisor  will not do anything  what do i do next they  want $ 350 to repair donot want to pay i  feel it should of been corrected the first 3 times
  • stil29stil29 Posts: 1
    Had the same issue. After putting the key in and out 6 times actually start the car instead of just acc. Then push any button on the transmitter. No problems now. Good luck. :D
  • xmasxmas Posts: 2
    My nissan quest se 07 has had an internal failure in speedometer and advised I had to replace insturment cluster. Total cost @575.00. Since I have 59,000 miles it is not covered under waranty. I called nissan customer service to complain. I am waiting to hear back from regional director. Has anyone had this problem? I thought speedometers lasted alot longer than that.
  • Hi
    I have exactly the same problem with my headlights and daytime running lights.
    Just wondering how you managed to fix it ?
  • I have the same proble as fitzgerald posted about year ago (2007).
    The daytime running lights come on sometimes and goes off some times? Also my dashboard high beams light says its "on" all the time when i turn my headlights on when clearly there not on. Any comments???
    Just wondering "fitzgerald" how you manged to fix it?
  • The Canadian Villager/Quest has a daytime running light module mounted on or near the passenger side strut mount under the hood. I have heard that if you take the module apart and touch up the solder joints it may fix the problem. Seems this board suffers from cold solder joints that eventually fail. Go to:

    For lots of great information on this problem.

  • Hi I sold my villager as i refused to put any more good cash for bad worn vehicle.
  • did you ever figure this out? I have the same problem.
  • I sold my 98 villager and bought a 07 altima it..good car
  • My wifes van stalled and will not start. I replaced the coil, had the igniton control module test and even replaced the coil to dist. cap wire. Van still wouldn't start. So off came the dist. cap. Rotor and cap are maybe a month old. When we turn the motor over the rotor does not turn. If I grab the rotor, I can't turn it. Feels normal like. :)

    My question is, does the timing belt have anything to do with the distributor turning, or does the dist. get ran by the camshaft or something else?

    It seems to me that if the distributor wouldn't turn by turning over the motor, I would be able to turn the rotor really easy.

    Any ideas? I know I'm gonna have to replace the distributor... :(
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