Toyota Land Cruiser

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  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    For an older LC - 1991 Fj 80 FE - I need a new aerial. Any advice as to where to go for a oddball spare part like this?
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Your mast can be replaced for around $30 (part) and 2 hours of your time if you're slow. Go to www.sleeoffroad.com and look in the tech section, I believe.

    IdahoDoug
  • hfpieratthfpieratt Member Posts: 11
    I just bought a '97 FJ80. For driving on the street I'm trying to learn to drive using mainly the torque of the motor and go easy on the brakes.
    Any tips on how to go easy on the brakes?
    Any tips on how to better use the torque?
    Is this the best way to drive this wagon on the flat streets of Dallas?

    When I get into the mud and rocks for true offroading I'll ask another time how to drive on those surfaces. Please stick to the road!
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Brake pads are cheap and easy to replace, and transmissions are not.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I just recently sold a 97 TLC FJ80 with approximately 50,000 miles. I am a bit unclear about what you mean about using mainly the torque of the motor? ( I also drive a VW TDI Jetta with 90 hp and 155 hp torque. So for a Landcruiser 212 hp with 365-425 # ft of torque ) Going easy on the brakes (I have driven extensively in Dallas) can mean a lot of things. For a range of brake wear, friends have had to change their (TLC) pads in as little as 12,000 miles (streets of San Francisco). More normal is between 40,000-50,000.

    If what I think I understand of what you mean by driving the torque, the thing to keep in mind is it takes a lot to get a 4800-4900 # vehicle going, also up to speed and stop. So the thing to do is to leave as much space cushion as you can so the energy dissipates into empty space and not as heat in the pads and rotors. The vehicle is capable of 60-0 in app 135 ft. So for a BIG truck it is no slug in the stopping department.

    When accelerating, I tend to use the o/d button to let it wind out a few more revs before it upshifts. On the deccleration, it also helps to slow the vehicle a bit. The good news and the bad news are the pads are pretty inexpensive. I have also gone to a TRD carbon fiber metallic combination on the fronts. When I bought a slew of them they did not have it available for the rears (I have owned 5 TLC's). They tend to throw off a tad more brake dust than stocks, but the wheel design tends to hide this, unlike a more open wheel design like a Corvette Z06. Best of luck on your new 97 TLC!
  • hank14hank14 Member Posts: 133
    No matter how you choose to drive, there will be a tradeoff (pros and cons). Fast acceleration and sudden stopping decreases fuel efficiency and increases wear on brakes.
    Driving with OD off increases engine braking and would therefore decrease brake wear, but again cause decreased fuel economy. I tend to drive with OD off while in town and in the mountains.

    I wonder about the effects on the tanny and drivetrain of frequent downshifting when stopping or slowing down. I tend to think it would not be harmful and would increase brake life. Is this harmful to an automatic transmission as a daily practice over a long period of time? Is the increased fuel consumption more costly than frequent brake pad replacement?
    The conservative answer is to not speed, accelerate slowly, and coast to a stop. In Dallas that will get you run over. You can always save the aggressive passing for the off road trails, as you climb past the domestics.
  • firemousefiremouse Member Posts: 19
    OK. . this might come across as an ignorant question but i wil ask it anyway . .

    Is the TLC 100 Series (98+) Unibody construction?
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    No, it's body on frame.

    Toyota made a big to-do about the new, stiffer frame with the introduction of the uzj100 back in '98, neglecting to mention they softened the rig with rack & pinion steering and independent front suspension.
  • firemousefiremouse Member Posts: 19
    So, in essence, with respect to construction, the only difference between the current TLC & the 4runner is the steering structure and front suspension, notwithstanding the shape and amenities of course.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Well, there are some drivetrain differences. 4Runner has a torsen center diff; TLC does not. Diff ratios are probably different. In the 80 series and earlier, the mini and TLC axle diameters and spline counts were the same, but the 3rd member on the TLC was larger. Not sure about the current vehicles though.
  • hope9811hope9811 Member Posts: 10
    Hi. Recently we purchased a 97 LC. When doing our research, one of the only "main" problems people complained about was the lack of cup holders or placement of them in the vehicle. Now that we are driving ours (we love it) but are wondering how you resolved this issue? Is there a custom cup holder that is made to use over the parking break or anything that you know of? Just hoping some of you that own them can shed some light as to what works best.

    Thanks!
    Heidi
  • paysonpayson Member Posts: 32
    On the subject of timing belt changes,we have a 93 L.C. with 150k miles.I can't find any reference in any of our maintenance paperwork that this has ever been changed.We bought this truck 5 years ago with 93K miles. Does this truck have a timing belt or chain? I don't see it mentioned in the manual.Thanks for any advice
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    It has a chain.
  • paysonpayson Member Posts: 32
    Good news, thanks
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    You may also be unaware that your '93 needs the valve clearances checked periodically. When the rig is cold, pull off the valve cover and get out your feeler gauges. Intake spec is 0.006" to 0.01"; exhaust is 0.01" to 0.014". It is a shim and bucket, DOHC setup, so you can't rely on valve train noise to alert you.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    That is a good point, on 91-97 the valve clearances are recommended to be checked at 60,000 k miles.
  • paysonpayson Member Posts: 32
    Thanks,I'll have my husband check the valves before we bring it to the dealer next month for its 150k mile maintenance. Any other advice that may not be in the manual that we should know with this many miles?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    So the frequency is 60,120,180... etc. Since you are at 150k, NOW might be a good thing, if you have not done it at the previous intervals or do not know when it was last done, but if you have done it at 60,120, the next cycle of course would be 30k away or 180k.

    Be forwarned and forarmed that the check itself will be app 1/2-1hr of shop time (90 per around here) to a couple hundred should the valves not meet specifications. Obviously DIY would be the most economical. A step up would be to find a specialist who doesnt charge as much as a dealer.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    For my 1991 Fj 80, which eats brakes, what would be the best brakes for the front in order to maximize use and minimize maintenance.

    PS. I know this depends on use etc but what would be a typical time between front brake changes. I had a front change/disc machining at 83,000 and I am now up to 107,000 - was told they are "OK" at my recent annual "sticker" inspection. I would guess that I need some new front shoes soon.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Get a factory repair manual. The '93 manual does not cover the rear full-floating hub nor differential locks. You should get the '94 model year manual as it covers those features, and the rest of the rig is the same. The only exception is if your rig has R12 A/C. The '94 manual will cover R134a.

    Front axle seals are items not mentioned in the recommended maintenance list. Check them every 60k miles. If the rear axle seals go, you'll see a star pattern of gear lube on the wheel.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    Am I right in thinking that for my '91 Fj 80 I would also need to get the later '94 manual to cover the rear full-floating hub and differential hubs?
  • cbracerxcbracerx Member Posts: 3
    Greetings -

    I am seriously contemplating the purchase of a 'leftover' 2003 LC or a used low mileage 2000-02 model. So far, the pricing here in the northeast seems to be $35K-37K for a certified 2000 with low miles (less than 40K). I've got a dealer willing to give an $8K discount on the 2003 models, which still puts them at $50K + (depending upon options, natch). A lot of dough! But the new vehicle has Side Curtain Airbags for the first two rows (a big selling point with the family riding along) and the 5sp automatic getting (slightly) better fuel 'economy'. Yeah, the Nav is nice but certainly not a must have - fun diversion on long trips I suppose.

    Am I getting taken here? Should I be working the dealer(s) harder on this?

    Thanks for your comments!

    Chris
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Not unless you swapped in a '93 or later FF rearend. The stock fj80 rearend is a SF drum brake setup.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    So the 1991 and 1992 model was replaced by the 1993 model - am I reading that correctly? I got my 1991 right when there was a major model change and I guess that the new model only lasted two years before an upgrade?

    PS.
    I think it might have been Idahodoug who suggested that the Bentley (I think that was the name) manual was preferable to the factory manual - any comment on that?
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Yes, 91/92 have the 3FE, 4l, pushrod motor, and '93 and later have the 1fzfe, 4.5l, DOHC motor. There are other, minor differences.

    Dunno about Bentley, but the Gregory's manual is good. I have factory and Gregory's. They complement each other well.
  • albivalbiv Member Posts: 35
    I purchased my '03 in June. Sticker was $61K and I got it for 54k. That was about 1k over dealer cost which is what the Edmuinds TMV price showed at that time. I noticed recently the TMV price is more than the 1k over dealer cost that I paid. LC's are pricey but I plan on keeping mine for a very long time so I don't mind the extra up front costs. I would think now would be a good time to deal on one. Don't get caught up in the excitement. I walked out 2 times before we agreed on a price. Work the dealer as hard as possible. I filled out Edmunds free dealer quote page and had 3 or 4 dealers contact me through E Mail.

    Hope this helps
  • firemousefiremouse Member Posts: 19
    Has anyone here had a good experience with a front ‘mask’ protection on a TLC. I have a 99 model and I would like to protect it from the ‘pebbles’ they fill the streets with for snow purposes here in Colorado. It literarily damages the front end of many cars. I am not too thrilled with the ‘Clear Mask’ as it tends to fade, wear out, and starts really looking ugly. Replacement is semi-impossible.

    I am leaning towards the Colgan ‘Carbon Fiber’ mask. . any thoughts?!
  • spieczkospieczko Member Posts: 1
    Guys,
    Hi, I have a 1997 Land Cruiser with only 44,000 miles and the check engine light just came on! The car is running fine. My question is:

    1.) Does anyone have details on how to pull codes from the landcruiser

    2.) Does the Land Cruiser typically turn on the light for normal maintenance?

    Any insight is appreciated:
    email me.
    stevepieczko@yahoo.com
  • cbracerxcbracerx Member Posts: 3
    Thanks,

    Looks like I can buy a new 2003 with all options including the DVD rear seat entertainment for $52,800. I might just go for that. The dealer I had been working with packed up all non-entertainment system LC's and sent them to the auction today!
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    You need an OBD-II code reader. You can have the dealer or another shop read the codes, or buy a reader. Autozone may read the codes for you for free.

    No, it does not illuminate for maintenance.
  • joeeblow1joeeblow1 Member Posts: 238
    Hard to imagine paying $53k for a car. I had a hard time justifying paying $22k for my used '93 :-).
  • jb_shinjb_shin Member Posts: 357
    I am considering a used, 99 to 01. I know these things are built last and being Toyota, has good reliability. I am wondering if there is any major differenced in the years mentioned, and what it is like in terms of maintenance. I am sure the same question was asked before so if there is any place that has "FAQ", please point me there (my email is in my profile).
    Thanks.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    Re Valuations. My 1991 is worth around $5,950 according to used car guides! However with only 107,000 miles on the clock since new (cost $29,000) this is a ridiculous figure is it not. I am not comprehensively insured anymore as that used car valuation doesnt make it worthwhile to pay the extra premium (I pay $1200/year as it is where I live) - big problem if I have an accident.
  • albivalbiv Member Posts: 35
    It is hard to pay that much for a car/suv. But when you consider that the majority of SUV's on the market when compareably equipped to a LC run in the mid 40's, it's not that much of a stretch to buy the one that all of the others aspire to be. I looked at other SUV's when I made my purchase and none of them stacked up to the LC. The GM's were in the 40's, Escalades in the 50's etc. Even the Sequoia when loaded is in the mid 40's. When you factor in the reliability and resale value of a LC I believe it was the right purchase for me.
  • stewardrobbinsstewardrobbins Member Posts: 41
    I know what you mean. I found my new 2002 on Ebay. It didn't sell in the auction, but I called the dealer and got it for $46,200. The original sticker price was $58,688. It had 400 miles, and is loaded with wood trim and navigation system.
  • firemousefiremouse Member Posts: 19
    I tend to concur with albiv and will add the following. .

    Resale is truly of the essence when you invest in a car. You hope to regain as much money out of the sale as possible (even when retention is for years). Not one SUV can stand up to the resale value retention that the TLC maintains, except probably for the 4 runner.

    Value: Look at all the used SUVs listed for sale. You will notice that all the US made SUVs are cheap, especially once they exceed the 100K miles (Expeditions, Tahoe, Escalade). Yes, they might have more power, and yes they might have more space, but that’s about it. As for quality, it just does not exist. Besides, have you ever seen a Ford, GMC, Chevy or any other US made SUV being sold with over 150K miles?!?! Very few if any.

    In the TLC story, you truly ‘get what you paid for’
  • teamcirkerteamcirker Member Posts: 1
    Where is the best way to sell a 2000 TLC?
  • idahodougidahodoug Member Posts: 537
    Not me recommending any manual over the factory Toyota Cruiser manual. Great advice from JoeBlow above on getting the '94 books if you have a '93.

    IdahoDoug
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    Sorry I incorrectly attributed ther manual recommendation to you! But someone DID recommend to me a manual which is more detailed than the factory manual. Now I cant remember what it was called unfortunately.
  • cbracerxcbracerx Member Posts: 3
    Folks,

    I went ahead and bought, you can add these data points to your info on purchasing. I got a 2003 with 25 miles (new car) with Nav/18"/RR & RB/CSA and the Rear Seat Entertainment for $52,800. Sticker was $60,855.

    Let the depreciation begin! We plan to keep for 8 yrs+ so I am counting on the reliability.

    Chris
  • dabobtdabobt Member Posts: 28
    Appreciate you taking the time to update us. I'm still waiting for an 04.

    JustBob.
  • grantchstrgrantchstr Member Posts: 371
    Well I bought my 1991 with the full intention of keeping it for well over ten years - and reliability was a key factor. I had seen these things running in Africa and new they were long-lived. I bought the 1991 when the new model + shape was introduced and I figured it would be a real long time before Toyota changed it again. I have heard rumors that the LC will be dropped soon - anyone know? But I reckon on another 6+ years to go - which would bring me to 150,000.
  • lcownerlcowner Member Posts: 3
    Anybody getting price offers from dealers on 2004 LC's yet? Just wondering if the TMV on Edmunds of $56,304 (MSRP $59,410 with DVD NAV, side curtain airbags, 50 state emissions, roof rack, running boards and 18" alloy wheels) is an accurate estimate of what I'll have to pay. I'm in Northeast US. Thanks in advance for any help.
  • dabobtdabobt Member Posts: 28
    I'm negotiating right now. One dealer sent me the msrp invoice - 62,743 and quoted 58,500. Invoice to me looks roughly 55,000 on this unit (and it says right on there that there is an add'l $1,700 that is repaid to the dealer).

    Since the price of an 04 (base) is only $270 more, and the only option that went up is Nav (+350), I'd rather have an 04.
  • dabobtdabobt Member Posts: 28
    A dealer just faxed me the toyota invoice for an 03 that is just what I want. MSRP is 61,431. On the invoice side, the total is 53,489, then there is something called "TDA" (toyota advertising according to them) for $912, for a total of $54,401.

    They will sell this to me for $54,901. Like I said, it says right on the invoice they have another $1,600 coming back to them.

    So it's really $2,100 profit, not $500.

    What's everyone think? It has the nav/rear ent, curtain side air bags, roof rack/running board, 18" wheels, hitch.

    Bob.
  • dabobtdabobt Member Posts: 28
    TDA Stands for Toyota Dealer Association. Some fee for joint advertising or something. $912 ?? on one car? Geez! Sounds like another way of cranking in profit to me.

    Bob.
  • dabobtdabobt Member Posts: 28
    TDA Stands for Toyota Dealer Association. Some fee for joint advertising or something. $912 ?? on one car? Geez! Sounds like another way of cranking in profit to me.

    Bob.
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    Well... it would be profit if the dealer ever saw any of that money. The TDA money is sent to the regional distributor and is used for advertising in that region. The fee varies by region. The highest is Northern CA at 2.3% of base invoice. I believe the Midwest region is 1% but cap the fee at no more than $250 or something like that.

    Again, this is NOT money refunded to the dealer.

    Besides, what does the dealer "profit" have to do with supply, demand or value?
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Besides, what does the dealer "profit" have to do with supply, demand or value?

    Isn't it obvious that the overall price affects demand and that dealer "profit" is part of that price?

    tidester, host
  • cliffy1cliffy1 Member Posts: 3,581
    Overall price does affect demand. As price rises, demand falls as fewer people are willing to pay that price. A customer trying to determine if a deal is fair or not should focus not on his/her perception of what a dealer makes, but on whether the price is competitive in his/her market area.

    A dealer's profit is not anything a customer could ever know anyway. Heck, I work in a dealership and I can't tell you how much the variable expenses are for each vehicle we sell, therefore, I can't determine the profit. Profit is NOT selling price less invoice plus holdback and incentives. Profit includes floorplan interest expenses, average advertising costs, commissions, salaries, taxes, employee benefits, utilities and a host of other things I can't begin to tabulate. Its a business.
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