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Ford Escape Mazda Tribute Maintenance and Repair



  • mafsefmafsef Posts: 4
    Two earlier messages defined start problem and no-fix from dealer. Latest hiccup occurred in my garage - steering wheel again locked up in off-center position and unable to insert key, with much sweating and swearing eventually managed to turn wheel enough to get key in but no engine start (door locks actuated but nothing else), more muscle effort finally moved wheel enough to get engine start - it took considerable effort to move wheel!!!! Garage temp. was about 87F.
    Trial and error after previous fiascos showed that when parking and switching off leaving the steering wheel centered allowed a perfect start next time; if wheel was only 10 degrees off center wheel locked up and key could not be inserted. It's obviously useless going back to dealer as they haven't a clue, but what the hell are Ford engineers doing? - There is surely enough evidence here to generate an investigation as there is most definitely a design fault somewhere; I guess it's the old story - after sales problems are of minor concern (money has been collected, bottom line improves) unless there are fatal accidents or safety related problems that may eventually get the governments attention.
    It's a pity that I have to make a comparison but my Mercedes has no problems, is so well engineered and put together and the dealer appears to be on top of any technical questions that again US manufacturers are left in the dust.
  • Did you ever resolve your problem? I have the same issue and it's very frustrating! :sick:
  • i'm working on a 2001 escape with the v-6. when you hit the gas, it sounds like it's sucking a whole bunch of air then engine revs up. after that, the engine idles down very slowly. i've found a small rubber elbow that comes out the vacuum ports, and it's as if it's collapsed from having too much suction. i followed the tube that's attached it to a small box like thing under the injector rail. is that the pcv?? or some kind of max air sensor? the car won't really hold a steady speed because of this. any thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Yes it is the PCV.
  • ok, i replaced the pcv. when i went to start it to see if that fixed it, it would barely run, and sounded like it wasn't getting any oil. i checked to make sure i didn't miss anything, and restarted it. same thing. while i had it running, i was able to check to see if the pcv fixed my original problem. it didn't. i've been told that it might be the throttle position sensor. do i need to reset the pcm to solve this problem? i did not disconnect the battery when i was working on it. i hate throwing parts at it, because the tp sensor is almost 30 bucks. any help would be great.
  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Stupid suggestion, but....

    Did you replace the intake plenum gaskets? Assuming you removed the intake plenum to get to the fuel rail to get to the PCV. If you did, make sure they are seated correctly and that you did not gouch them when installing the plenum back on. If you did not replace them, replace them. You cannot re-use the same old gaskets once you have broken the seal by removing the intake plenum. Also word of advice, if you have not replaced the spark plugs, now would be a good time to do so otherwise you will have to remove the intake plenum once again to replace them later and have to replace gaskets as well again.
  • abruzzzabruzzz Posts: 2
    Hello, I bought my 2009 Tribute new in April 2009. I've been at the dealer over 20 times. Mostly for the same issues.
    -Hoot noise which was kinda fixed but still hear it.
    -Leaking back window
    -Seatbelt fell apart
    -Windows which make strange noises when closing
    -Air conditionner blowing out white crap all over me and dash...(they cleaned it a few times)
    - *******And most importantly the strange noise coming from under me or the engine when I go foward. Its almost like a rumbling noise...sometimes I hear metal in metal and it also happens when I'm going normal slow speed (50km) and with low rpm's. (going over a small hill) Its sounds like a RRRRrrrrrrrrrahhhh and its annoying! I noticed it did it more often when I had the air on. They changed the catalitic comverter and did some adjustments to the catalitic and front pipe and donut but it seems to be doing it even more. The service agent told me if they could hear it and not normal, they could fix it. I had 3 mecanics hear the noise. They all told me it wasnt normal. Now they told me all Tribute's make that bizar noise and there's nothing to be done.

    I'm bringing it one last time to maybe check the manifold and replace everything to stock parts and hopefully the noise will stop or be less noticable. I already spoke to a lawyer and someone at the automotive arbitration plan. I will proceed if not resolved.

    Anybody have this problem? ggrrrrrrrrRRRRarRRR noise!

    I also noticed when I start moving that there's like a loss of power and not constant? Is that a transmission issue? I think it does it more when i have the air on aswell. Like a small jolt....i give gaz and it starts, i lose power, then it goes but annoying since my whole body swings cause there's not a constant flow....does that make sense?
  • Hi

    Having checked fuse 3 for the rear wash wipe system - the rear washer/wipe
    system is not discharging any cleaning solution - the window wash system reservoir in the engine compartment is full and the front window washer dispenser is working. On engaging
    the steering wheel stick control that manages this operation for the rear window I can hear
    what sounds like the motor going. Does anyone have an idea as to the problem here and why it won't dispense cleaning solution ?

    Any help appreciated ...

  • davichodavicho Posts: 190
    Clogged nozzle?
  • Yup - after putting further cleaning solution into the dispenser - the nozzle or whatever
    was in the tube - finally cleared itself ... thanks again .. !!
  • My overdrive light is flashing and I get trouble code p1744. Does anyone know how to fix this. I had the trans rebuilt 10,000 mile ago. this code came up 5000 miles after the rebuild and I took it to the shop and they couldn't find anything wrong so they told me that i should replace the alternator because it was only at 13.9 volts which was low and could cause the code to read. This didnt make sense to me so i checked the voltage and saw that they checked it with the air on and with the air off i was just over 14 volts. The light was off for 5000 miles but is back on again. If anyone knows how to fix this please let me know so that i can tell the transmission people how to do their job. Thanks
  • hwmspechwmspec Posts: 10
    edited September 2010
    Did some searching on tthe web and found this.

    Tell them it is not the alternator.

    DTC P1744 is "TCC - Excessive Slip Detected During Full TCC Engagement". Which means that the Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is disengaged or the EPC pressure is at the minimum.

    The most likely cause is a sticking or bad TCC solenoid inside the transmission. You can check the connector at the transmission to make sure it is clean and tight and that it is not damaged in any way. That "miss" you felt was the TCC disengaging.

    If the TCC and wiring is okay, then pressure testing of the transmission will need to be done.

    I don't think it would be as much as he guesses. A new torque converter from Ford is about $265.00 and about 8 hours labor. Throw in a $40.00 TCC solenoid and I don't think it'll be more than $1,000.00.
  • I just started having this problem. I showed the Ford dealership your description of the problem , they do not know what your mechanic was referring to. Is it possible to get a part number or description of the part?

  • My dealer reprogrammed the Escape's computer (they didn't give me any further detail). The idle speed has not any problem since then, but hot weather is now passed, so I guess I won't know for sure if it is fixed until it manages to go an entire summer without stranding me. There were a few hot days, so I am hopeful it won't happen again.
  • This is my Escape and the fix was a loose ground connection under the rear passenger seat. The problem was found by a voc-tech student working on the weekend at the dealership. Sorry I never posted how the problem was solved.
  • This vehicle has sucked the life out of me! I bought this about 2 years ago for my daughter and problems started the very next day. That's what you get for "AS IS" junk! The first problem took months to figure out, it was the intake gaskets. It ran great for a couple months. The next problem took replacing nearly all the sensors, finally straightened out after replaced the MAF sensor. Once again all is well for several months. Now it has a high rpm problem. Sometimes when you stop and put it in park it will rev up to 4000 rpm's. It used to only be 2000 rpm and just ignored it. but now it sounds like it may blow up if you don't turn it off. today my daughter said it is even idling very high at the stop lights, like 2000 rpm. I'm going to put the old idle control back on tomorrow and see what happens. if that don't work I'll try the position sensor. any ideas on what could be causing this?
  • My 05 is doing this too. Your description sounds as if you were talking about mine exactly. What did you ever figure out was the cause of the noise?
  • I broke the bolt on the manifold last night from over torquing. Thankfully I was able to fish the broken end out of the lower manifold. How did you get a replacement bolt in?
  • I'm not very car savvy so any help would be appreciated. I have recently started having problems with the engine. I have V6 3.0L XLT. I recently have had very poor gas mileage (even for in the winter) getting only 212 miles per tank on average as oppose to 260-280. I also have been smelling burning oil outside the vehicle (or inside when the heat is on) and sometimes there is smoke coming from up near the radiator (but it doesn't look like its from the radiator itself). It has about 145,000 miles on it. PCV valve and hoses have all been replaced. There are no oil puddles or anything under the car even after letting sit and run for 5-10 minutes. Any ideas?
  • 1wizard1wizard Posts: 2
    edited January 2011
    Replace the Crankshaft Position Sensor(CKP), and check the wire attached to it. The sensor signals the the PCM when the crankshaft is 60-degress before top dead center(TDC) for cylinders 1 and 5. The PCM then computes actual TDC or any number of degrees before or after TDC and uses this info to control ignition spark advance. The CKP sensor also provides the engine speed signal to the PCM and is part of the misfire monitor circuit.
    Also, poor cylinder combustion that causes engine misfire increases HC(Hydro-Carbons) in emissions in the exhaust. This can overload the catalytic converters and accelerate their deterioration.
    If the problem is not leaky caskets, wires, plugs, coil pack, fuel injectors, or fuel filter this usually is the problem for misfires. I would relace this first before any other options. If the problem persists, check to see if your catalytic converter is clogged.The sensor is small and cost about $34. And if the converter is damaged, check to see if it's still under warranty. I believe most carry an 8 year 80,000 mile warranty. Hope this helps.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Don't know for sure, none of my Escapes are that far run yet, and haven't had the problem, but a vacuum or EGR leak could be the problem. It could vent the crankcase fumes, which you may smell, and may look like smoke, and could also cause the car to run poorly and reduce mileage. I would look for the exact source of the smoke if possible, or take it in somewhere to have them look. Good luck!
  • Good call on the push nut. I have a 2002 Tribute that also had the transmission cable fall off. Between the tow truck operator and this post I was able to fix the cable on my own. All you need is a 5/16ths push nut. It fits right on the end of the little transmission post as the tranmission post has a little groove which the push nut fits in perfectly. It cost me 34 cents to repair.
  • jill26jill26 Posts: 2
    My 2001 Escape 3.0 v6 won't accelerate over about 10mph and its hard to get it going that fast, when I step on the gas it just barely moves. won't go over 2000 rpms even if its in park. I just changed all the spark plugs and I didn't have this issue before the plugs were changed so I checked to make sure the gap was correct on all the plugs and tested all 6 C.O.P.'s, all was good. After that I started it and the MIL light came on and I got codes p1406 and p1401. I then replaced the DPFE Sensor and there was a small change in my Escapes behavior, didn't idle quite as rough but still won't accelerate. When that didn't work I replaced the EGR Valve and again no change.
    I'm Running out of ideas can anyone help?
  • tomv3tomv3 Posts: 8
    If things were working before the plug replacement, I doubt that the EGR/DPFE components failed all of a sudden. Even one bad plug will allow you to drive OK, just a bit rough and certainly not at peak performance.

    I did my plugs this summer and had no problems. However, I think it is easy to omit connecting all of the hoses since I had one in particular drop out of sight when removed. I don't think is was connected to the EGR, but it made it easier to remove the EGR.

    I would check hoses and electrical connections to the EGR/DPFE and any other components in the engine compartment that may have been removed during the plug replacement. Do the hoses have any cracks that could be leaking air?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Any chance the plug wires aren't on in the correct order? Even two of them switched can really mess you up. Failing that, there are many more components and sensors that could have failed to cause this. Sounds like it may actually be in limp mode.....if it has such a thing.
  • tomv3tomv3 Posts: 8
    Each cylinder has an individial coil pack that has a low voltage harness connected to it. No possibility of crossing up the wiring as with the older single coil/distributor design using high voltage cables. The low voltage harness can barely reach its own coil pack much less a wrong one.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Ok, didn't know for sure if the 01 had coil on plug or not. Clearly, it's not the wires then....
  • I have had problems everytime it rains with the engine light coming on and I take it to have the codes pulled up and it's always the same thing, 1st cylinder missfire. I have the codes cleared and it's fine the next day, but not this time. This time it rained and it now shows a 2nd cylinder missfire and so I am taking it to have the back three coil packs changed and the spark plugs. It kills me that I have heard so many people say that they have had the same problem but yet ford will not do a recall and fix this crap themselves. I have always supported ford against my families advice but i'm starting to see why they stick with chevy. I know all companies have issues with thier vehicles but at least chevy does a recall and fixes the problem.
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    This problem is not a design flaw nor a safety issue. Annoying to be sure, but the car is 9 years old! I have had 6 Escapes, still have 4 of them, no problems but one, the A/C condensor popped on my 08. Repaired under warranty. GM never did a recall on the Piston Slap in their V8 engines a few years ago, nor their weak frames that cause a harmonic resonance on the freeway in their trucks ofthe 90s, and I could go on about the 90's Blazers that had a weak roof and bucked back and forth over 60 MPH. The fix for it was, "don't drive over 60, this car was never designed to do so". How about the smaller spare tire in the Chevy Colorado, that if you put on the ground, the axle would bind and break within a few miles. No, GM doesn't issue recalls at all even though their problems are myriad. I see no reason why a recall is warranted on your car, though I understand your frustration.
  • my girls escape is having the same problem. So what fixed the problem with your escape?
  • jill26jill26 Posts: 2
    It ended up being a clogged cadilytic converter, I just cut mine of and straight piped it because only one was clogged and now my escape runs like its new.
  • estarrestarr Posts: 1
    So I put my 2001 Tribute in park, just as the odometer hit 135000. Went to put it back in drive again, and the gear shift in the steering column flopped around like a fish, but it went back in Park.. that's it
  • 1wizard1wizard Posts: 2
    Try replacing the PCV and Crank Position Sensor also.
  • so it must've been the last cat. and not one off the exhaust manifolds. have tested about every sensor. time to start taking the exhaust apart. thx for the help.
  • lornebrlornebr Posts: 1
    I realize that considerable time has past since this post, but your story is exactly the same as mine. I had a '02 Tribute that was stuck in R and when the tow truck driver tried to change this for towing reasons, he ended up temporarily fixing the vehicle. After pushing the gear release button and looking under the hood, he simply used a zip tie (that he just happened to have) and secured the cable back to the metal pin. Everything is working perfectly.

    My questions: Do I really need to get this fixed or is the zip tie a easy remedy? What the part name of the plastic piece that used to secure the cable to the pin?
  • barndt1barndt1 Posts: 1
    Did you ever get an answer to this ? The same thing happened to me and need to know how to remove and replace the bolt Ford part 9Y450. Thansk
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    The Zip tie will break rather soon. The heat from the engine will degrade it quickly. Get the right part in there.
  • no i haven't received any answers to remove intake manifold blots/threaded studs from the engine block.
  • padlangspadlangs Posts: 1
    I experienced this exact same problem with my 2003 model Tribute V6 auto last Friday. Only it cut out while I was driving.

    I was traveling at about 80km/h behind another car in a single lane road. The road opened up into double lanes and I wanted to overtake the car in front of me. I stepped on the gas, the transmission kicked back two gears and the next moment the engine just cut out. The rev's dropped to about 3500 and the engine came back in. It revved up to 4000 rpm and cut out again. It continued to do so for nearly a minute. By this time I have pulled over on the side of the road and reduced speed to about 40km/h. The engine then kicked back in and I continued my trip without any further incident.

    Is there something busy failing and if so, what? Do I need to start looking for spare parts? Any advice will be appreciated. :confuse:
  • escaped1escaped1 Posts: 1
    I was having some major issues with the transmission in my 2009 escape.
    The transmission would downshift from overdrive all the way down to 1st or 2ND gear or after driving on the highway then going 30 or 40 mph it would not shift down. So i brought it in and they pulled the transmission and had to replace some seals and clutches. the problem is when i picked up my car on a Friday afternoon it was raining so i just drove it home and parked it and didn't use it on sat. but on Sunday i noticed the hood looked like it was up about 3/4 of an inch. i called the dealer on Monday am and they said that there was no way the could have done anything like that. So i have a friend who is a body man and he said it looks like they bent the radiator support. then i showed it to the dealer they denied they could have done anything like that by taking the transmission out and said i must have done it or the car was in an accident. there is no external damage on the car and the radiator support looks like it has some pry marks on it. The mechanic at the dealer lowered the rubber snubbers and moved the latch but this doesn't fix the problem. It still doesn't look right.

    Any ideas on what to do next?

    thanks Tom
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    edited July 2011
    Well, you can't go up through Ford, they didn't do it, apparently the mechanic did somehow. If the dealer won't do anything about it through escalation to General Managers or owners, I'd persecute them. It'll be hard to prove in court, but you can park the car in front of the dealership with some damaging signs. That usually gets some attention from them. If you can get a TV station to air your story, that's good. And they usually love stuff like that. Editorials naming the dealer in the paper are also effective. As to ultimately fixing it, a body shop can repair it, but you shouldn't have to pay for that. I have had dealer mechanics damage my cars before, but they have always been very good about making it good for me. They've never hurt my car that badly, but it also sounds like they are unscrupulous as well.
  • I have a completely different vehicle, but just the same, I had an issue like this a long time ago. My radiator was completely empty and the engine got very hot and would not accelerate just like you described. After filling it up with water and letting it cool it ran fine. The heads warped due to the heat though. So I replaced those myself for 700 bucks. On another note, I had an issue with the vehicle losing power and dying every once and a while. If this is an issue also, it is most likely the camshaft position censor. I hope this helps.
  • Same problem. When it's over 90 degrees, the Escape stutters and acts like it might stall. Hesitation also occurred at highway speeds.

    The Ford dealer came up with three codes: P0351; P0303; P 0316.
    They replaced coil #1 and charged me $344. Same problem the next week. Dealer said they might have to replace another coil. I took it to a local mechanic with diagnostics. The owner told me the same codes, same solution.

    A hot-shot mechanic working there said the code P0316 might indicate a bad wire to the computer. He replaced the wire. After a summer of record-breaking heat, I have had NO PROBLEMS! The cost for the second solution was $81.
  • slenverslenver Posts: 4
    I wonder how many other escapes have a bad or broken computer wire? Over the past 2 years I have replaced every external part on the engine. And before I continue , I was going to buy coils from AZ until I found out they were $85 each. I got 6 new ones off ebay for $95, not each but for a set of 6. regardless, still had problems. back in april my daughter come in complaining about the escape stalling, quitting, etc. the usual stuff that was almost a daily thing. I got to where I would ignore her but it was a dangerous situation. it would stop in traffic and it's a miracle she didn't get hit. anyway, this particular day I went out to look at it. I had done so much I really had nothing else I could think of. Out of frustration I just kind of started lightly pounding on things and tugging. I happen to grab the harness going into the computer and the engine stalled! Started right up, grabbed it again and it quit running. turns out a red wire which was hot (12v) was broke inside the insulation and I'm guessing it was broken for a long time. but with the way it was broke it was still getting contact. but certain things like hitting the brakes or sometimes accelerating would pull just enough for that break to separate. since the rubber insulation is stretchy it would hold it together. and I was getting all kinds of false codes because of the power interruption. luckily there was enough wire sticking out of the plug for me to splice it. the escape has been fine every since. I really believe it has been like that from the beginning and I have spent $100's trying to solve it. all new sensors, all of them! new coils, probably $500 on dealerships that said it was fixed only to have it happen again a day later. and tools, I have all kinds of fancy electronics now. I even had the leads and such to connect to my computer so I can read all the diagnostics and reprogram the computer. my daughter things I should become a ford escape specialist now.
  • I had the same problem with my 02 Escape, it failed to start after being driven when the engine was hot. A new IAC and fuel pump did not correct the problem. After reading this post I had the crankshaft positioning sensor changed and it runs and starts great!!! Thanks for your post!
  • slenverslenver Posts: 4
    when we first started having issues with the 01' escape I took it to a local mechanic. they did some test and said the intake gaskets were leaking. when it was cold it ran terrible but once it heated up the gaskets were sealing. I told them to fix it, repair cost was $130. Picked it up and a nice hot day and it ran great. next morning the weather was cool and it was running like crap again. I was going to take it back to them but decided I would see just what they had replaced. I took the intake manifold off and there were new gaskets. But, I looked in my repair manual and it said there were upper and lower gaskets. Turns out there is what looks like a spacer or adapter about 4 inches deep that the manifold sits on. there is another identical set of gaskets on the bottom of that adapter. You would think these mechanics would have taken another 5 minutes to replace the lower gaskets but no. Guess they anticipated it would act up again and I would bring it back. That is what you call job security for mechanics, some anyways.
    The gaskets set, upper and lowers in one kits cost me about $8. The lower gaskets were burnt to a crisp. Once I replaced those then it was fixed and ran great, for a few months.
    If you ever have problems with sputtering and stalling while your engine is cold those gaskets are something to look at. There are probably 8 bolts or so that hold the intake/plenum on. once they are out you can pretty much swing the plenum back so access the gaskets.
  • I own a 2003 Escape that I love. It has 122K mostly trouble free miles. Recently I replaced the head gasket and all the related gaskets, water pump & pulley, tension adjuster, serpentine belt, idler pulley, plugs and wires. etc. Followed all of the instructions as req'd to a "T".
    Recently i got a code P0171 (lean condition bank 1) along with the check engine light. There are no vacuum leaks anywhere (already checked). Vehicle has become sluggish off the line, fuel economy has dropped from about 27 mpg to 21 mpg. Traveling at speed up a moderate grade I have to shift from 5th to 4th and sometimes to 3rd to get up the hill. Performance is suffering. Odd thing is that at night it runs better (it's cooler), during the day when the temp gets over 75 degrees it turns into a slug. It never was a formula one vehicle but the performance was pretty good for a 2.0 liter 4cylinder FWD with a 5 speed.
    Before I start throwing a bunch of parts at this thing (Maf sensor (removed and cleaned), fuel pump, injectors (fuel injector cleaner in gas tank 2 bottles), Throttle body (cleaned) does anybody have an idea what might be causing this and the solution?
  • So my vapor canister got ripped off along with some hoses. I got an estimate at Mazda which says it will cost close to $900 to fix. I was able to find all the parts that mazda listed on the estimate and can buy them really cheap elsewhere which will save me $ and I can get the thing put on without Mazda's help which will also save but I can't find a diagram of the vapor canister and the assembly of the hoses/other parts anywhere. Nor can I find pictures of it anywhere online.

    Anyone know where I can find this and/or willing to take a quick picture of their assembly? :p
  • Hi there,
    Am new to this forum so please forgive me if I'm doing this all wrong.

    I have a Mazda Tribute 2002, 122k on the clock. For about the last 3 weeks or so I've noticed that when I first use the car during the day (morning or afternoon) whenever I turn the wheel I hear a rubbing/friction noise (not a whistle), as if something is grinding on something else. After a minute or two of driving the noise disappears completely and that's it gone for the day, even if I leave the car for a couple of hours and use it again it doesn't reappear. Following day same thing again.
    Yesterday I took it to Goodyear Service Centre (nearest place to me with a good reputation) and they had the car for an hour (at no charge which was good) and diagnosed that I need 3 x engine mounts fitted at a cost of $998, obviously I'm reluctant to shell out this sort of money if it's not the cause. Has anyone any other thoughts on this please. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
  • take to ford or mazda have the power steering pump checked
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