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GMC Yukon XL and Yukon XL Denali



  • I am glad that your CSK problem is gone at this time. Mine is much worse than yours, as mine was knocking on cold start over this past weekend, when the outside temperature was in the 60's & 70's here in upstate NY. Removing the carbon did nothing to reduce, or stop my knock that would last up to 1-2 minutes. How long did your CSK last? Mine was much louder when it was in drive, under a light load, as I slowly drove it, lasting up to (1) minute, (up to 2 minutes if it just idled under no load in "Park"). I dropped mine off at the dealer late yesterday, to have all the pistons & rods replaced, w/ the special ordered parts for this problem, under the 3/36,000 warranty. I've got a rental 2002 4x4 GMC Sonoma, at GM's expense, while mine is being repaired. They are expecting to have it 2-3 days. I'll keep you posted. Dave
  • boone6boone6 Posts: 8
    My knock lasted anywhere from 10 - 30 seconds and I never heard it while driving. I am beginning to believe from reading threads here and on other boards about this that we may be experiencing two different problems that mimic each other at start up. After the carbon was removed not only did my knock stop but my idle leveled out and the response from the throttle is much better. The truck runs like it did new. I am already looking into how I can take care of the removal of the carbon myself in the future. Good luck with the new pistons. Other boards I have read have indicated that fix did not last.
  • I totally agree, that we are each expiencing two different problems. When my dealer did the carbon removal, he was expecting the problem to be a carbon knock, created by carbon on the pistons, & indicated that if the procedure did work, that it would be a temporary solution.

    Since it did not correct my CSK, the dealer & GM are looking at my problem as being the piston slap problem that is being reported on some 5.3L, 6.0L, & 8.1L engines. GM stated that it was "normal" and would not damage the engine, but as I stated above, that was not acceptable to me.

    Within two days of trying unsuccessfully to correct the problem with the carbon removal procedure, my dealer had worked w/ the GM rep. and received authorization to order special parts, & replace the pistons & rods to fix my problem.

    Any vehicle can have problems. One measure of a good vehicle, is how well the manufacturer and your dealer take care of those problems. I'll keep you posted on the progress, and hopeful success in fixing my CSK problem.

    What other boards are you reading? I regularly read the Edmunds boards, & the Delphi Forum board, all of which have a large number of good, talented individuals, such as yourself, who are willing to take the time to post messages, & help others.

    Thanks again, and good luck with your truck. I trully love my 01 YXL, & feel it is one of the best SUVs on the road. Dave
  • pshewardpsheward Posts: 11
    Well after 50K miles of some of the strangest items sticking in the tires of the Burb (Brake Pins, one nail that left two holes, a long sliver of metal and the most recent a bushing mount that must of come off of the trash truck, that left an 1/8 hole in a tire. It's time for new rubber.

    Details - 01 LT 1500 4x4 - Mostly around town Mom driving to and from school, sports, scouts, etc, with an about two trips from Balt, to Phila every month. Twice a year we hit the open road and travel anywhere from ME to GA.
    Not pleased with the wear on the Firestones.
    Had Goodyears on my Bonneville; Bridgestones on my Troopers.

    Thinking about Michelins, Bridgestones need some opinions. Good or bad. Thanks
  • boone6boone6 Posts: 8
    I do frequent other sites and they are and There is also the infamous for the one man and others crusade to get the cold start piston slap issue solved through GMC. I am now using Chevron with Techron to try and keep the engine in better shape or adding Techron to the fill up when I do not use a Chevron station. May be just useless BS but who knows.
  • jlp8885jlp8885 Posts: 13
    I-17 from Loop 101 to End (Flagstaff) and back
    75-80 mph both ways
    going up, locked out of o/d multiple times
    min rpm- 2500 (cruise)
    max rpm- 4100 (long climb)
    going down, locked out of o/d once
    min rpm- 2200 (descent)
    max rpm- 4000 (brief climb)

    going up- 22 mpg
    going down- 32 mpg

    400lb of passengers
    150lb of cargo (trunk)
    Altima 2.5S

    engine has 7500 miles on it

    check out coming back
    hows your mileage?
  • kentmoonkentmoon Posts: 44
    I went to both dealers over the weekend...Chevy salesperson said that both are exactly same, but Yukon is about $1200 more expensive. GMC salerperson said that Yukon is better with only about $300 in prices difference. What shall I buy?

    Also, I am considering leasing for about 3 years, but salesperson said that Suburban has only about 35% residual after three years which makes lease very expensive compare to other imports (BMW & Merc) I had. Is this true? I really don't want to buy it because I like to have a new car every 3-4 years. Anyone gotten a good lease deal??

    Thank you.
  • dfwk2500dfwk2500 Posts: 68
    Have never leased so can't speak much to that issue. In '94 we went with the Chevy because I did not want the painted nose that came with GMC. In '01 I went with GMC because GMC dealer gave me a better deal than the Chevy dealer (I also liked the look of the GMC better, but would have gone with Chevy if their price had been better). In my opinion go with the better deal unless the appearance of one over the other matters to you (ie. side moldings, front clip, etc.)

    As far as residual. Both in '94 and '01 we custom ordered a 3/4 ton 4x4 with most of the options. We paid $29k in 5/94 and sold it in 12/00 for $12,500 cash. It had been through a significant accident in '99 (it had been repaired) and had 92k miles. If someone is telling you there is only 35% value left in 3 years, it differs from my experience.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    The difference in price should be around $300 for comparably equipped vehicles. So, one of 2 things is happening: one of the dealers is not giving you nearly as good a deal or (more likely) one vehicle has more equipment than the other. One way to analyze it is to look at the difference in MSRP of the 2 vehicles. If it isn't around $300-$400, than there is an equipment difference between the 2.
  • Just picked up 3/4 ton with second row buckets.While going over,I noticed the third row seat does not have leather seating surfaces like the first and second rows.What gives, is this GM trying to save a buck, or is this a mistake?
  • kentmoonkentmoon Posts: 44
    I've noticed that, too, on Suburban. They mention on catalog that leather seating is just for 1st and 2nd row seats, so it is not a mistake.

    How much did you pay for your vehicle? Any recent purchases anyone?

    It seems like about $1,000 below invoice plus $3000 incentive is a good price.
  • resque84resque84 Posts: 21
    My 2000 Yukon XL lease is up in July(last payment in June)and my new 2003 Suburban which I special ordered is in by the dealer already.Should I take it by April 30 and get 0% financing and have one month of both trucks ? or will the 0% stick aroung another month ?
  • resque84resque84 Posts: 21
    I can't end the lease early , it is not through GMAC, it is a bank, so I am stuck in it till Mid July.
  • If you can get that price without paying advertising,go for it. Heck thats a good price even whith advertising.
  • namsernamser Posts: 6
    I'm planning to buy a 2003 Suburban and was trying to decide whether to get leather or cloth seating. I've heard many great things about he leather. I've seen some older cars with leather and it is cracked. Also, does the leather get hot in the summer/cold in the winter?

    I'm thinking about getting the bench seat in the front and leather is not available in that version.

    Can anyone tell me their experiences with and without leather seating?

    Thanks Alot!
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    We love Leather. It doesn't get too hot or cold and it cleans easily. Heated seats are great.
  • kent25kent25 Posts: 15
    kentmoon, you stated good price is $1000 under invoice. Can you elaborate on that level? How are the dealers compensated currently? We are seriously looking and am not sure what our opening offer should be. Anybody else bidding on XLs around Philadelphia area?
  • We recently purchased a used 2002 Yukon XL. While shopping, I noticed that there were many Yukons, with a minimum of 14k miles, that were showing some inner tire wear on the Firestone factory installed front tires. There were a few vehicles that we found with 30K plus miles, where all four tires showed this wear pattern, in varrying degrees of severity. I assumed that the tires had been rotated. Test driving most of these vehicles showed a front end shimmy present. When we finally arrived at our decison on the Yukon to purchase, we had the dealer install Michellin tires. I have freinds that have 60-70K miles on Yukons, Yukon XL's, and Suburbans w/Michelins.The ride is great, no shimmy and I expect much better tire wear. Based on my observations, you are lucky to get 50K on the original Firestone tires.

  • 03tahoe03tahoe Posts: 83
    Two local Chevy dealers has advised my neighbor that "At Invoice" and no Advertising cost is the best he can get for a 2003 Sub.
    Something else that rings rotten is that he claims they added the delivery charge to the base cost and option cost before calculating the local Sales Tax. I may be wrong but I don`t think they should charge sales tax on the delivery charge.
    Strong agreement with the above comment. Michelins are a great tire.
    Used them on all four of my previous Subs.
  • xloaded1xloaded1 Posts: 3
    To anyone who may know: I have a 2000 Yukon XL and would like to know how to disengage or disconnect the automatic headlight sensor so that I will have to manually turn the headlights on and off with the switch. (I have added some aftermarket lighting that doesn't always function properly with the "twilight sentinel" feature.)
    Thanks in advance.
  • cnnjcnnj Posts: 2
    We are looking at purchasing either a Suburban or Yukon XL. Couple of questions: Is the autoride option something we should try and get and is installed DVD system worth the price? Should I start the purchase price discussions at the invoice amount or can I expect to go slighltly below or above invoice? Should I lean towards a Suburban or Yukon XL.

    Would like to wait a couple of months before purchasing but I'm not sure if they will keep the 0% going. Any advice would be welcome.
  • kent25kent25 Posts: 15
    Can't speak to the DVD issue - personal preference. With respect to pricing, we just bought a loaded Yukon XL at $300 under invoice before rebate. (That's a regional thing, by the way. We are in Philadelphhia area.) As for Yukon vs. Suburban, we simply liked the grill and trim features of the Yukon better. Again, personal preference. By the way, at this very early stage we are really pleased with the truck. It has excellent road manners, great radio, very comfortable seats. My only concern is that once we get used to having that much room, we'll never be able to downsize. Only real complaint is that the carpeting is incredibly cheap for a vehicle of this price range.
  • tonkadavetonkadave Posts: 102
    Kent, I live in the area as well. Can you tell me where you bought the vehicle? Thanks.
  • fievelfievel Posts: 16
    An earlier post asked about which options to consider when purchasing. From my experience after doing several test rides, I purchased my Yukon with Autoride and StabiliTrak. After all, these are trucks, and any options that increase the ride quality or safety seem valueable to me. Many other brands now have a stability system either standard or as an option, and the autoride seems to make sense to me as I also pull a trailer. Even during the test rides not towing anything over different type of roads, the Autoride seemed marginally better. I know Consumer Reports said that it was not worth the money, but since I plan on keeping this truck about 10 years, the extra did not seem like a big deal. Also, I would have gotten the rear bucket seats, but my wife thought that the standard bench was more useful.
  • I'm about to purchase a 1996 K2500 with 454/4.10.
    A dealer told my seller that the front brakes perform about 95% of the stopping power, ergo, front brake pads go through quite a bit. Has anyone else experienced this, AND are there aftermarket(s) or TSB that can address this?
  • ric1035ric1035 Posts: 32
    Build locations? Vins that start with "3" was built in Mexico and "1" in the US. Is either better than the other? Quality,engine,trim? I have a choice between the 2 and would greatly appreciate any advice.
  • lovemynewflovemynewf Posts: 15
    Looking at a Yukon XL. Dealer has one on the lot with everything we wanted except autoride. Would have to order or find one from another dealer to get that option. Haven't seen 1 vehicle on a lot with autoride. Is it worth the 1K extra for it? Will eventually be used for towing a pop up camper in the summertime.
  • lobsenzalobsenza Posts: 619
    I have it and like it. The auto leveling system is better than the auto leveling on the non auto ride vehicles. The best way to decide is to drive one with autoride and one without. If you are having trouble finding one with autoride, try a Yukon Denali or Cadillac Escalade. Autoride is standard on these vehicles. It is on both the standard length and extended length trucks.

    One downside is that repair costs would be higher.
  • joebasjoebas Posts: 20
    About 4 weeks ago, I tested the 1500 4wd LT, both with autoride and without, and I was able to feel a difference. The autoride was smoother. I also tested the Z71 and that was a stiffer ride as it has the off-road package/suspension. I ended ordering the LT with the autoride and they called me last week to let me know my truck should be in on Monday 5/12.
  • lovemynewflovemynewf Posts: 15
    Okay, so I should try for the autoride, how's about the stabilitrak? Any pros? Any cons? The dealer I am talking to has located an XL in another nearby state that has both the autoride and stabilitrak, also has sunroof, captains chairs, etc. I have a copy of the pricing info. MSRP before destination charge is $48977.00, Invoice is $42721.80, they were quoting me $43776.19 as the supplier price. Destination is $815.00, there is also two entries for $489.77 each listed as LAM Dealer Contribution and LAM Group Contribution, not sure what they are. No way I can afford more than 42K and that is dependant on trade in. Vehicle has been on the lot there since 02/17/03 so that is already eating into the play with holdback, however, that dealer has 30 yukon XL and denali XL's on their lot.

    Think I stand a chance with the low balling the vehicle? Will my dealer play with price since it would have to be brought over from a different dealership? Am I better off to shoot for a vehicle ordered to my specs? ARGH!!! I want one soooo bad, but unless I can get some major dealing, I am looking at driving my minivan for some time.

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