Anyone ever have any rattles in their Suburban? In 3 weeks, we already racked up 2k miles, and have 2 rattles. One is just the lightbulb in the front passenger's inside reflector light (it was never put in the socket and just rolls around in there. The other is a very loud creaking sound coming from the C-pillar/rear window area on the driver's side. Any kind of bump, or even turns in the road where twisting force acts on the body makes it creak really badly. Can't figure it out, but I keep thinking the window and sheetmetal just aren't attached to each other correctly there--then again, who knows!
Regardless, it's been pretty much trouble free and a joy to drive. Going in for service on Monday, so I hope they can get rid of both the noises, especially the one in the back. Everything else seems to be really tightly screwed together, even more so than the perfect Avalanche we traded in.
Used to own a 97 Yukon 4wd but bought an 04 burb fully loaded in Oct. after starting and turning on a/c while loading I noticed a wind noise from outside the rear passenger door. What causes this? is it a 'leaky' door or a normal occurance?
Long time viewer first time poster thought I would add the next item.
Just replaced the seat wiring due to a short caused by my wife's seat setting. All the warning lights on the dash triggered later the a/c compressor stopped. 1st trip to the dealership could not id or find error code. No problem with the engine just creature comforts.
Posted this in the Towing forum as well, but thought there might be knowledgable people here. We have a 2003 Suburban 1500 LT with tow package and Autoride and 3.73 gear ratio. We had an electric brake control installed. Max trailer rating states 7200 pounds.
Father-in-law bought a 7100 pound travel trailer and said we were free to use anytime - mentioned that the salesman said our Suburban could pull it. Obviously, with a few people and bags in the truck, we exceed the max rating, probably by 100-200 pounds at least.
We hooked it up this past weekend to try it out at the campground that is 2 miles from where he stores it. Used his weight distributing hitch and anti-sway bar. Seemed to pull just fine, but we were thinking of pulling it 3 hours away down I-75 through Kentucky - pretty hilly. Do you think it is safe to do so if we keep it at around 55-60 mph? I really don't want to trade in for a 2500 to pull this trailer once or twice a year. I am comfortable with safety in terms of stability, etc., but am concerned about abnormal strain on engine and transmission.
We have a '02 LT 5.3, pulling a ~5000 lb trailer. In the flats, runs at 60-65, all day, no troubles. Hills & headwinds are a whole different story - both slow us way down, and hills are real work. Rule of thumb is add 1000+ lbs.for personal gear, food, equipment, etc. So you're probably well over the limit, more than likely more than your estimate.
The 'so-called experts' often suggest you tow no more than 75% of the rated capacity of your truck, to avoid the 'tail wagging the dog' going down the road. I'd say you're probably okay for the short haul you describe, but would be skeptical of the longer, hilly trip.
If you choose to go ahead, be patient - it will be a slow trip up the hills. For the real steep ones, 2nd gear at 40-45 worked for us. Run it in '3', not OD, regardless of hills or flats. Put some extra air in the tires to reduce overheating - I usually run 35, but bump up to 45 for a towing trip. Keep an eye on your engine temp. And despite what GM says about their transmission service schedule, get it done at least every 12-15K, if not annually.
Thanks for the advice... I am having serious reservations about making this trip. My dad says it's no problem... that there is plenty of leeway in the max ratings. I have little concern regarding ability to control the trailer, with anti-sway, WD hitch, trailer brakes, etc., but I have major concerns over doing damage, or at least excessive wear, to the transmission, engine and suspension.
The plan was to go with my parents and my brother's family - maybe I'll have them carry all my passengers and cargo to keep my weight down!
you're pushing it but you will be fine, I do a lot of racing and I have a bunch of friends that tow their race cars and enclosed trailer, between 7500# and 8500# with the same conmbination that you have and their trucks survive just fine.
you will be in 3rd gear with any head wind or hills but for a couple of time a year i will not worry.
You could put an, instrument cluster from a Denali or 2500 to have the transmission temperature gauge,it's a direct plug in, and watch it.
I have a 01 2500 with the 8.1 liter and 4.10 gear but i tow about 11000#,I can go up a steep hill at 65/70mph where my friends will be at 50/55.
One other thing, i would run a synthetic oil like Mobil 1 and perhaps synthetic trans fluid. They are more resistant to breaking down under heat. Changing the rear axle gearing would also help. My guess is this would cost $300-$500. Adding some additional coolant, engine oil, and transmission cooling will also help.
I am in the market for a new 2004 Suburban. I am coming off of a 42 month lease on a 2001 2500LT. I know there is a $5000 incentive currently that is supposed to end the first of August.
I am wondering if I should maybe extend my lease a month or two and see if the incentives get any better? Does anyone have any take on bad GM needs to sell these and what will happen next month? How close to the end of the model year do I dare get? Anything new on the 05's that is worth waiting for?
Also are there any great deals on leases? I have leased the last 2 or 3 burbs & this will be the first time I have considered buying this time since the leases aren't very good anymore. I do suppose the advantage is that I can tradeout anytime I like without being bound to a lease term.
I am in the market for a new 2004 Suburban. I am coming off of a 42 month lease on a 2001 2500LT. I know there is a $5000 incentive currently that is supposed to end the first of August.
I am wondering if I should maybe extend my lease a month or two and see if the incentives get any better? Does anyone have any take on bad GM needs to sell these and what will happen next month? How close to the end of the model year do I dare get? Anything new on the 05's that is worth waiting for?
Also are there any great deals on leases? I have leased the last 2 or 3 burbs & this will be the first time I have considered buying this time since the leases aren't very good anymore. I do suppose the advantage is that I can tradeout anytime I like without being bound to a lease term.
The Suburban's achille's (sp?) heel is the transmission. Treat the engine kindly by not asking it to do too much, and it will be fine. Load-leveling hitches take a lot of the load off the suspension, so you're OK there.
Switching to synthetics might help, but I'd be careful depending on how many miles are on the engine. Going from mineral to synthetic with too many miles already on the clock can cause leaks. Get other opinions, of course, especially from any local transmission guru you trust.
I am looking to retire my Safari AWD and get the wife a used Suburban. 2000-2002 LT 4WD with all the toys. Most likely 60-80,000 miles. What should I look for for problems. There are a lot of these on ebay for $13,000 to $20,000 (in Texas of course). Basically, I am concerned with Engine, Tranny and axles and transfer case issues. My uncle is a fleet mechanic and says the 5.3 is good for 200K (even with the slap) and the tranny's (if not towed or plowed) good for the same. The weak link may be the transfer case (only in plowing issues). Any advice would be welcomed! What is the cost of an engine replacement?
I have a 2003 Suburban with about 12,000. After a long trip to VT, noticed bad cupping on the front wheels. I took it to Firestone (I have Firestone Wilderness LE) and they told me the camber was way off and that a few other folks had gone to the dealer with their suburbans and the same problem and gotten new tires as a result. I went thru Chev Customer Relations (who were very helpful) and got two new tires through Dealer. They were initially reluctant but didnt put up much of a fight as the problem was so obvious.
Dealer said that I should rotate tires every 3000 mile oil change!! (right) The manual doesnt even call for oil changes at that interval. I will rotate every 7500 from now on, bbut Chev never should have let this car out without checking the wheel settings.
BTW, my door panels call for 35PSI front and rear.
My tire shop also advocates rotation every oil change. I change the oil every 3000 or so. They do the rotations for free, have good popcorn, and current magazines in the waiting room, so why not?
I change my own oil at 5000 mile intervals and find this a good time to have the tires rotated and balanced. My tire shop recommends 6000 miles for rotation. I have always got long wear out of all my tires.
Looking to buy one soon, have ran across a few good ones. Prefer the 1500 SLE or SLT 4x4 but hate the barn doors. What should I look out for as far as maintenance/repair/recall issues? Also, do the GMC 'burbs have anything extra compared to the chevy. Gas mileage? Handling? Any info would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
Man, that's the best feature on these vehicles. I bought my 99 Tahoe with 41,000 miles and now it has 69,000 miles. I have had no trouble out of this vehicle and it is probably one of the most versatile vehicles I have owned. The only known problem I am aware of is that SOME PEOPLE say that the transmission will not last much past 110,000 +/- miles. Make sure the tranny has been serviced regularly.
I want to add a custom Chevy bowtie grill emblem to my 2004 Suburban, but can't figure out how to remove the old emblem. I think it's a clip on. Any advice?
I was wondering that too. We used to have an Avalanche and tons of people in the Avalanche club changed their bowties, but I don't know how they did it. Apparently it's really easy (a lot of things say that), but who knows.
We have a Summit White '04 Suburban LS so it has several black moldings and WOL tires, so my mother thought a black bowtie would look better than the gold one, but then she changed her mind and now just wants a gold bowtie hitch cover.
I just found out that the new 2005 Suburbans will have a optional navigation system identical to the 2004 GMC Denali's. Also, the 2006 model will have a new exterior. As for the OnStar systems, they will be completly digital (not analog) starting with the 2005 model. As of yet there is no plan to be able to retrofit older Suburbans to the new digital OnStar format. From what I heard it is a completely new unit that will be using a new sattelite, although will operate just like the old system. The old analog systems will operate until at least 2008. After that the FCC wants the analog frequencies returned to government use.
It looks like the $5000 rebate is going to be around awhile(currently set to expire on Aug 2,2004). I am ordering a 2005 Suburban LT with the navigational system and the dealer said that it will be continued for the 2004 models but is unsure about the 2005 models. He also mentioned rather sarcastically, that if there is another Terrorist attack, that the rebates might go higher, like they did after 9/11.
I'm due to replace the tires on my 2003 Z71 Suburban. It has 17" wheels and I'm interested in your recommendation on a good tire that still looks agressive, but is quiet, has a nice ride and decent tread life.
The Z71 comes with a somewhat knobby looking tire and I would like to keep that look (at least somewhat), but would like to get a tire that is quieter/smoother than the stock tires if possible. Cost is only a minor factor.
Only tire I looked at was a Michelin Cross Terrain for about $170 each that got decent reviews, but I've just started looking. Thanks in advance!
It's about time! I am still in disbelief that it took them that long to offer a nav system... I really wanted one when we bought our 2003, and I was amazed that a full size almost $50K SUV did not have one available, when I could easily get one on a Camry, an Accord, an Odyssey, etc.
I have been looking into buying the Nav system and installing it after the fact, which apparently is possible, but not cheap, and you lose the CD player when using the nav system unless you buy the separate 6 disc changer for lower in the dash.
What advantage does the digital OnStar system have over the current system?
I just purchased the 2004 Suburban LT 4wd with Stabilitrak and locking rear differential. I was surprised that the locking rear differential option was available which was contrary to the chevy website and the brochure.
I ordered and have the same set-up as you Steve. I don't know why the Chevy information sources said otherwise.
Your rear locker will come in to play when you place the transfer case in 4 low. The Stabilitrak system will be disabled, at which time the Stabilitrak button functions as an on/off for the traction control system. Turn it off and you should have only the mechanical function of the rear locker!
It has been awhile since I've had my grill shell off, but that bow tie emblem either just snaps in or is held in place with plastic welds. Under the hood, remove that big black plastic cover that sits on top of the radiator area, there are numerous push pins that hold it in place, use a small flat tip screwdriver to pry them up. With this removed, you should be able to see the backside of the emblem.
If it snaps in, you will be able to get your hand in and release the extensions. If not, then you need to pull the grill shell, 1 bolt up top and four quarter turn screws on each corner if I remember right. With these removed/loosened, only the ends of the center bar are clipped into the forward edge of the fenders. Tug on this area to release the clips and the shell should come off. If the emblem has plastic welds, just cut, file or grind the ends and the original emblem will come off.
BFG All Terrain TA is the tire I would recommend for an aggressive look with both good off and on-road manners. I got 40K on my first set on my 4Runner and currently have 30K on the second set, with plenty of life left. Noise isn't bad at all, certainly as quiet, if not more, than those stock tires.
I have rather large (305/50-20) Cross Terrains on my 2004 Suburban and, so far, love them. Unless your driving is more off-road oriented, this is a great tire, though it lacks some of that off-road aggressive look!
You can order the 2005 Suburbans now at any dealer! I was told mine will take 10-12 weeks to arrive in Omaha,Nebraska(around the middle of September). The prices have not been released but my dealer said that they would not increase by more than 4%(Which I got in writing). I was not quoted a price but put down $500.00 to reserve it, the dealer will refund the entire amount if I am not happy with it or the price. The Burbs sell really well in SNOW COUNTRY. I am ordering a 2005 Suburban LT (1/2 ton) with every option except the middle row bucket seats (I have to haul my kids soccer teams around and need every available seat).
Bob, Look real closely at Toyo Open Country tires. Quiet and still a little knobby, ride & handle well, wear well, especially if you rotate regularly. We got ours siped, and have had no need for winter tires (we're in Eastern Washington) If you tow, look at load range 'D', instead of the usual 'C' - they have a little stiffer sidewall.
Your profile doesn't give any info away, but if you're in the Pacific NW, get 'em at Les Schwab's.
I got the Suburban LT 4wd 1/2 ton with locking rear differential. Anyone had experience with the Stabilitrack 4wd versus autotrac 4wd in snow conditions? How do they compare?
Have a small wear spot on drivers seat in my 01 LT - Leather heated seats. The spot is on the seatback, mid way up - my cellphone clip is what I think caused the initial damage. Need to know where to get best quality replacement at best price.
My dealer was not so accommodating, he just said he had no idea and they wouldn't know until just before release. I can handle a 4% increase but I would have to give up the $10k incnetive they are giving. I wonder if the 0% interest will still be available. Thanks for your reply.
I had a 2000 Yukon XL with Autotrac 4wd. I now have a 2003 Suburban with Stabilitrack, it is far better in the snow than the autotrac system.With the autotrack I found myself start skidding and then the sysytem kicked in, with the Stabilitrack system, I wasn't even able to get into a skid although I did try hard .Stabilitrack is also an all weather everyday safety system versus the autotrack where it really only kicked in in rain/snow
Hey all it's been awhile now, but to get caught up I traded in my '01 Yukon XL 2500 6.0L 4WD w/Autoride in December and upgraded to an '04 2500 Yukon XL 6.0L 4WD w/Autoride, and the best option available on the market for these beasts Quadrasteer! I've got a little over 10,000 mile on the clock and this thing runs like a champ, much better than the older model and handles like a dream, it even rides better than the old one!! I can get this in and out of parking spots that most people would only fit in with a car, the low speed maneuverability of this rig is out of this world, the turning circle is just 36.5' that's only .3" larger than a Honda Accord!! I can parallel park this thing like no body's business. It's so wild to see the looks on people's faces when I whip this big SUV into small confines, or around corners. I have a boat and tow a utility trailer on a regular basis and this takes that to a whole new level, and the ease of backing up and changing lanes is amazing!! The first year this option was available it cost $4000 but for the '04 model the price dropped to $2000, worth EVERY PENNY!!!! Anyone else out there have a Quadrasteer YXL or Suburban? What are your thoughts on this option.
I have a 2003 Suburban 2500 LT with the rear sear A/C, Heat, and stereo controls. A couple of weeks ago it quit working. I took it to the dealer yesterday and they said that GM was aware of the problem and was working on a service bulletin for a permanent fix. They said the unit "locked up"; they unlocked it so it now works, but until the permanent fix is figured out it could lock up again. Anyone else had this problem on know anything more about it?
((I have a 2004 Chevy suburban Z71 and it started making this odd noise with less than 1000 miles on it. Doesn't matter if it is in park, or driving down the road, occasionally a noise that sound like squeaking brakes erupts for 5-10 seconds at a time. I can not make it reproduce the noise when I want it to. Any Idea on what could be wrong?))
Refereeguy I have this same problem. I took the truck in to the dealer and they have not been able to find the problem. I was wondering if you ever found out what it was?
I would love to have quadrasteer. I wish GM would make it available on the 1500 SUVs. I understand the issue is dealing with the coil springs, but they would get a lot more sales with the 1500s.
I understand Nissan Armada will soon be available with quadrasteer. They may have a convert if GM doesn't get their act together when I am ready to buy.
Check the posts over on the Nissan Armada board. Sounds like they need to get their act together on their basic vehicles before they consider adding four wheel steering to the equation!
The OnStar systems in all GM vehicles communicates using Cellular Phone Technology. Basically it is a Cell Phone that you communicate with the OnStar advisors with. The current OnStar (ANALOG) System is what all Cell Phones used up until recently. Most Cell Phones now are DIGITAL, which means they have better reception,less dropped calls,and battery life is extended in the DIGITAL phones or the muti mode phones when they are in the DIGITAL mode reception area. There are a few totally ANALOG areas that have not converted yet(one of them is the area west of Salt Lake City extending into the Nevada desert). Anyway what this means is that all GM models(up to and including the 2004 models) OnStar works on the old system, while the new ones(2005 models) will work on the DIGITAL system. The two systems are not compatible with each other,and in fact are on totally different frequencies. The US Government wants the old ANALOG frequencies returned to them in 2008. I have no idea why but thats the plan from the FCC. As of now, GM is not going to make or offer a conversion kit so that all current vehicles can continue to use their OnStar system after 2008. But, that does not mean that another company might offer a kit to convert current OnStar users with an updated DIGITAL system.
What GM should do is make it so that you can connect your current cell phone, or select cell phones from each service provider to the car/truck/SUV so you don't need to use the personal calling feature. I would still subscribe to OnStar, I don't use the personal calling anyway, but the integrated hands free set up would be great to use with my cell phone.
Thanks for the recommendation. I'm in Minnesota....I'll update my profile.
I'm not down to the treadbars, have about 5/32 to 6/32 left, so I don't have to get them immediately. I'm thinking about a month (about 2500 miles). Have 50K on the stock tires right now. Stock tires don't ride that smoothly and a little on the noisy side, but it is an AT tire.
As a 2003 model year owner, it looks like I can upgrade my current system to install analog/digital (dual-mode) equipment so I can keep truckin into 2008 - wonder how much that will cost...
I for one think it is ridculous that GM has been so slow to put dual-mode equipment into their vehicles - this is hardly a recent development.
Lobsenza: I agree! Quadrasteer on a 1500LT would be fantastic. Chevy is missing out on their marketing targets: It is parking lot maneuverability not towing trailers that will get more Quadrasteers out the door. But to do that they need to get it on the 1500s.
Although I would prefer that Quadrasteer not come with its list of required options, like the extra wide rear wheel fenders, and the roof marker lights, and the 6-liter engine ...
Check out the Chevy-Mexico site to see what a Suburban looks like with the Silverado nose clip! Apparently the 2004 Mexican-market Suburbans (but not Tahoes!) have made the change to the new nose. Not a pretty site!
As far as tire choices go, I like street tread tires (like the LS/LT model tires) rather than the knobby "off-road" tread like the Z-71 tires. I am not planning to ever go off-road, and the street tires give better traction and grip on pavement, especially when wet. And they are a lot quieter too.
Having said that, I am not promoting the Firestone Wilderness LEs that are Original Equipment on the Suburban LS/LT. I have heard that they wear unevenly and I expect to switch to something else when they are worn out. But I'll go for something with a street tread pattern. glsable
I took my "new" (bought is used 4 days ago) LT 2500 to on a 5 hour trip today. Everything went well, except when we arrived, the transmission was quite jerky from 1>2 and somewhat from 2>3.
I checked the fluid level, it was good, and the color was ok. an hour later (I suppose the tranny was cooler), shifting was smooth again.
I recently logged on to My GMLink, which among other things, tells you what maintenance is scheduled for your car. I have a 2003 1500 4WD Suburban LT. GM is saying that I should have a Drive Axle Service every 7500 miles. I mentioned this to the service rep when I dropped the truck off for an oil change this morning, and he insists that unless the truck is doing regular heavy towing, there is absolutely no need to do this more than once every 30,000 miles. This seems like a huge variation between the GM and the dealer recommendations. My truck already has 24,000 miles. Anyone else have advice on this topic?
Comments
Regardless, it's been pretty much trouble free and a joy to drive. Going in for service on Monday, so I hope they can get rid of both the noises, especially the one in the back. Everything else seems to be really tightly screwed together, even more so than the perfect Avalanche we traded in.
Long time viewer first time poster thought I would add the next item.
Just replaced the seat wiring due to a short caused by my wife's seat setting. All the warning lights on the dash triggered later the a/c compressor stopped. 1st trip to the dealership could not id or find error code. No problem with the engine just creature comforts.
Have you checked the integrity of the rubber door seal?
tidester, host
Father-in-law bought a 7100 pound travel trailer and said we were free to use anytime - mentioned that the salesman said our Suburban could pull it. Obviously, with a few people and bags in the truck, we exceed the max rating, probably by 100-200 pounds at least.
We hooked it up this past weekend to try it out at the campground that is 2 miles from where he stores it. Used his weight distributing hitch and anti-sway bar. Seemed to pull just fine, but we were thinking of pulling it 3 hours away down I-75 through Kentucky - pretty hilly. Do you think it is safe to do so if we keep it at around 55-60 mph? I really don't want to trade in for a 2500 to pull this trailer once or twice a year. I am comfortable with safety in terms of stability, etc., but am concerned about abnormal strain on engine and transmission.
We have a '02 LT 5.3, pulling a ~5000 lb trailer. In the flats, runs at 60-65, all day, no troubles. Hills & headwinds are a whole different story - both slow us way down, and hills are real work. Rule of thumb is add 1000+ lbs.for personal gear, food, equipment, etc. So you're probably well over the limit, more than likely more than your estimate.
The 'so-called experts' often suggest you tow no more than 75% of the rated capacity of your truck, to avoid the 'tail wagging the dog' going down the road. I'd say you're probably okay for the short haul you describe, but would be skeptical of the longer, hilly trip.
If you choose to go ahead, be patient - it will be a slow trip up the hills. For the real steep ones, 2nd gear at 40-45 worked for us. Run it in '3', not OD, regardless of hills or flats. Put some extra air in the tires to reduce overheating - I usually run 35, but bump up to 45 for a towing trip. Keep an eye on your engine temp. And despite what GM says about their transmission service schedule, get it done at least every 12-15K, if not annually.
Good luck, happy camping, and
Cheers!
Paul
The plan was to go with my parents and my brother's family - maybe I'll have them carry all my passengers and cargo to keep my weight down!
you will be in 3rd gear with any head wind or hills but for a couple of time a year i will not worry.
You could put an, instrument cluster from a Denali or 2500 to have the transmission temperature gauge,it's a direct plug in, and watch it.
I have a 01 2500 with the 8.1 liter and 4.10 gear but i tow about 11000#,I can go up a steep hill at 65/70mph where my friends will be at 50/55.
Good luck.
Luc.
I am wondering if I should maybe extend my lease a month or two and see if the incentives get any better?
Does anyone have any take on bad GM needs to sell these and what will happen next month?
How close to the end of the model year do I dare get?
Anything new on the 05's that is worth waiting for?
Also are there any great deals on leases? I have leased the last 2 or 3 burbs & this will be the first time I have considered buying this time since the leases aren't very good anymore. I do suppose the advantage is that I can tradeout anytime I like without being bound to a lease term.
Comments?
I am wondering if I should maybe extend my lease a month or two and see if the incentives get any better?
Does anyone have any take on bad GM needs to sell these and what will happen next month?
How close to the end of the model year do I dare get?
Anything new on the 05's that is worth waiting for?
Also are there any great deals on leases? I have leased the last 2 or 3 burbs & this will be the first time I have considered buying this time since the leases aren't very good anymore. I do suppose the advantage is that I can tradeout anytime I like without being bound to a lease term.
Comments?
Switching to synthetics might help, but I'd be careful depending on how many miles are on the engine. Going from mineral to synthetic with too many miles already on the clock can cause leaks. Get other opinions, of course, especially from any local transmission guru you trust.
I think your caution is well placed.
Cheers!
Paul
I am looking to retire my Safari AWD and get the wife a used Suburban. 2000-2002 LT 4WD with all the toys. Most likely 60-80,000 miles. What should I look for for problems. There are a lot of these on ebay for $13,000 to $20,000 (in Texas of course). Basically, I am concerned with Engine, Tranny and axles and transfer case issues. My uncle is a fleet mechanic and says the 5.3 is good for 200K (even with the slap) and the tranny's (if not towed or plowed) good for the same. The weak link may be the transfer case (only in plowing issues). Any advice would be welcomed! What is the cost of an engine replacement?
Thanks,
Norm
Dealer said that I should rotate tires every 3000 mile oil change!! (right) The manual doesnt even call for oil changes at that interval. I will rotate every 7500 from now on, bbut Chev never should have let this car out without checking the wheel settings.
BTW, my door panels call for 35PSI front and rear.
Cheers!
Paul
Any info would be appreciated, thanks in advance.
We have a Summit White '04 Suburban LS so it has several black moldings and WOL tires, so my mother thought a black bowtie would look better than the gold one, but then she changed her mind and now just wants a gold bowtie hitch cover.
The Z71 comes with a somewhat knobby looking tire and I would like to keep that look (at least somewhat), but would like to get a tire that is quieter/smoother than the stock tires if possible. Cost is only a minor factor.
Only tire I looked at was a Michelin Cross Terrain for about $170 each that got decent reviews, but I've just started looking. Thanks in advance!
I have been looking into buying the Nav system and installing it after the fact, which apparently is possible, but not cheap, and you lose the CD player when using the nav system unless you buy the separate 6 disc changer for lower in the dash.
What advantage does the digital OnStar system have over the current system?
Your rear locker will come in to play when you place the transfer case in 4 low. The Stabilitrak system will be disabled, at which time the Stabilitrak button functions as an on/off for the traction control system. Turn it off and you should have only the mechanical function of the rear locker!
If it snaps in, you will be able to get your hand in and release the extensions. If not, then you need to pull the grill shell, 1 bolt up top and four quarter turn screws on each corner if I remember right. With these removed/loosened, only the ends of the center bar are clipped into the forward edge of the fenders. Tug on this area to release the clips and the shell should come off. If the emblem has plastic welds, just cut, file or grind the ends and the original emblem will come off.
I have rather large (305/50-20) Cross Terrains on my 2004 Suburban and, so far, love them. Unless your driving is more off-road oriented, this is a great tire, though it lacks some of that off-road aggressive look!
Look real closely at Toyo Open Country tires. Quiet and still a little knobby, ride & handle well, wear well, especially if you rotate regularly. We got ours siped, and have had no need for winter tires (we're in Eastern Washington) If you tow, look at load range 'D', instead of the usual 'C' - they have a little stiffer sidewall.
Your profile doesn't give any info away, but if you're in the Pacific NW, get 'em at Les Schwab's.
Cheers!
Paul
Thanks
East Coast - MD/DE state line
Thanks!
Refereeguy I have this same problem. I took the truck in to the dealer and they have not been able to find the problem. I was wondering if you ever found out what it was?
I understand Nissan Armada will soon be available with quadrasteer. They may have a convert if GM doesn't get their act together when I am ready to buy.
Thanks for the recommendation. I'm in Minnesota....I'll update my profile.
I'm not down to the treadbars, have about 5/32 to 6/32 left, so I don't have to get them immediately. I'm thinking about a month (about 2500 miles). Have 50K on the stock tires right now. Stock tires don't ride that smoothly and a little on the noisy side, but it is an AT tire.
Go to www.verizonwireless.com/onstar.
As a 2003 model year owner, it looks like I can upgrade my current system to install analog/digital (dual-mode) equipment so I can keep truckin into 2008 - wonder how much that will cost...
I for one think it is ridculous that GM has been so slow to put dual-mode equipment into their vehicles - this is hardly a recent development.
Although I would prefer that Quadrasteer not come with its list of required options, like the extra wide rear wheel fenders, and the roof marker lights, and the 6-liter engine ...
glsable
http://www.chevrolet.com.mx/content_data/LAAM/MX/es/GMMGM/showroo- m/chevrolet/modelos/suburban/diseno.html
I am guessing Chevy killed off the idea for the U.S. market and we are waiting for something better to come along with the 2006 model year?
glsable
Having said that, I am not promoting the Firestone Wilderness LEs that are Original Equipment on the Suburban LS/LT. I have heard that they wear unevenly and I expect to switch to something else when they are worn out. But I'll go for something with a street tread pattern.
glsable
I checked the fluid level, it was good, and the color was ok. an hour later (I suppose the tranny was cooler), shifting was smooth again.
Any thoughts?
Sam