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Steve, Host
By the way the Michelin Harmony 205/70/15 on my wife's CRV shows a maximum air pressure of 35 psi so although the majority of tires may have a maximum air pressure of 44 neither of the vehicles in my garage fit this mold.
Oh, I thought that was renamed "we beat dead horses and process horse meat". "
Disagreement is quite alright! However, when I ask several times for the others point of view/verfication or how he sees I can do better, the berating occurs. So yes you are right, there is berating occurring. Evidently for the one doing the berating there seems to be little if any informational exchange. Another poster (who I don't know from Adam) has also indicated that the question he asked him is also not being answered.
I also would hope that in the disagreement or exchange of ideas, I can come away with something of value. Perhaps I am expecting too much?
For your Accord with the aftermarket tires and wheels - 38 front / 37 rear. Sorry about the error I made. Zigged when I should have zagged!
For your CRV - Since this is a Japanese vehicle, I think the placard inflation is good, however a couple of extra psi is not a bad thing.
Hope this helps.
http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html
According to this calculator, there is only 1 revolution difference between the two at 1 mile. So my take is this is about as close as it gets!
Given the design parameters of the tire and the side wall pressure on your after market tire of 44 psi, I would be inclined to say 36-38 front with 34-36 (1 to 2 #s less) in the rear. The reason for the departure in the rear is the Accord by virtue of the massive understeer due to front wear drive, front engine will tend to understeer a bit less if you put 1-2 #s less in the rear. Since you have already by virtual of hitting the SL/standard load tp of 35 psi you won't have to worry at all about "under inflation" So if 38F/36R is too stiff for riding comfort, deviate by app -2#'s and see how that affects your SOTP's.
I also have a 2004 Honda Civic. I have the owner's manual "100 mph tp". Even without out that pressure, compared to my other cars the Civic has a more "nervous" ride than say the VW Jetta. But at cruising speeds it is very solid.
My 185/70/14 Honda Civic also has 51 psi. I departed from the 43 psi for it seemed that anything above 38 psi was in fact punishing. So while the owner's manual gives 35f/35 R for the 100 mph inflation pressure, I actually run between 36-38 F and 34-36 rear. Since I have less than 2k miles on it, I will keep you informed of the progress.
Capriracer is a tire guru, and I just sold them and raced on them and can only speak from personal experience.
I would disregard the OEM recommendations, simply because you're not using the OEM setup any longer. Bump your pressures to 35-36 psi and monitor your tire wear closely - of course, if your "treadometer" shows center line wear, adjust pressure down; the opposite for outer edge wear.
When racing autocross or hillclimb on hot street tires, on a FWD car, I use 40-45 front and 38-40 rear to minimize roll in, painting the sidewall with white marks to check the amount of roll in, and adjusting pressures up or down to compensate.
OEM's are 101S@ 44PSI
Replacement tires is 103H @ 51 PSI 225-70-16
Car is a 02 Highlander; Placcard specifies 30 psi.
Where does one obtain the load table?
BUT THAT'S WHY I'M HERE!!!
Your OEM tires had a P in front of the size (The letters are important!). This indicates a TRA based standard.
The replacement don't have a P in front, indicting an ETRTO based standard.
Since the load index went up you should be able to go down in inflation pressure and still maintain the same load. HOWEVER, the load tables are shaped differently between TRA and ETRTO, the net effect of which is that at lower pressures, ETRTO has lower loads compared to TRA.
So, this means you need to use a slightly higher inflation pressure to be technically accurate. (We're talking 2 psi!) But for practical purposes, it's the same.
Since you've got a Japanese vehicle,the pressure specified probably has lots of reserve capacity. On the other hand, it is an SUV. So my recommendation would be to either use the same inflation (30 psi) or a bit more. (say 32).
Hope this helps.
Welcome to my world!!
I have decided to go with 35/34 psi and to monitor my treadwear religously which means I now need to purchase a new tool to measure treadwear....nothing like a good excuse to buy a new tool. This is 3 psi below your recommendation, 2 psi below driftracer's recommendation, 5 above Connor at the TireRack's recommendation, and quite a bit below Ruking1's 85% rule.
I am still amazed that everyone recommends a fairly similar psi for a stock size replacement tire but change the wheel size, load rating, and maximum allowable air pressure and the recommendations are all over the map.
I actually have a Sienna with 205/70R15 Nokian WR's. I put them at 35psi, as recommended by the tire shop. Is this OK?
Now that you have selected your psi point of departure, a tire depth gauage, tire pressure gauge and even something as low tech as blackboard chalk, plus your SOTP's can help to further fine tune your measurements. Measurement is important for it lets you know are you really getting what you set out to get!?
SOTP's is pretty important for performance, satisfaction or lack there of usually comes from this perception and not necessarily the objective numbers. Of course perceptions can be all over the map.
Anyone, can you sipe tires that have 14,000 miles on them?
Steve, Host
Side note - these WR's are awesome! Nice and grippy even in the rain, and on freezing rain.
I can't wait until winter to really test them!
Because you are potentially messing with your well being, do not do a high speed run on a "under inflated tire"
The tire shop says that any tire with 5/32 or more tread left on it can be siped.
(the last time I lived 24/7 in winter conditions was upstate New York 1974-1976)
Last fall, I put Stillen front brake rotors & pads on the car after Firestone chomped down on the newly turned rotors and screwed them up when installing these Bridgestone tires. I noticed that the tires were one year old in date made before thaey got installed.
Is there something wrong with these tires? The dealer is saying that its normal, just the car, driver etc etc but nothing substantive to explain the situation.
thanks for any help you can offer.
1) The placard pressure should be considered a lower limit. That way you will always have the load carrying capacity the vehicle manufacturer intended. I think this is a smarter way than to go add air every time you add a few passengers or luggage.
2) Infared Thermometers will read the surface temperature, which might not be a good indicator of the internal temperature of the tire. Cooling of the surface can occur very quickly and you might not get a good reading.
3) Driving in a straight line is going to emphasize the centerline tempertures and since most tire wear occurs in cornering (because of slip angle), you might be tempted to reduce your inflation pressure to get an even temp, then discover the shoulders are wearing a little quicker than you thought.
4) Driving in a straight line might also emphasize the camber of the tire causing youto think you need to readjust it. However, when you go around a curve the camber will change and might flatten out so the tire has a more even contact with the road surface - just another possibility of getting misleading information.
Hope this helps.
Yesterday, I gouged a chunk out of the sidewall of my rear tire--it is still holding air. Should I replace it? Is there a rule of thumb for replacing a tire due to sidewall damage, e.g. if it is deeper than x% or wider than y inches?
(PS: Why do people have sharp things sticking out of their curbs?)
Craig
In situations like this, what is typically causing the air pressure loss - the wheel, or the tire? My dad's mechanic told him it was the wheels, not the tires, on his old Subaru Legacy that caused those tires to lose air so quickly. Something about oxidation of the alloy wheels or something. He was constantly adding air to all 4 tires.
Take a bucket of water with a sponge or towel. Put lots of dishwashing soap in it. Sponge it over the tire, around the bead, around the valve stem and on the end of the valve stem.
If you're leaking that fast, you should see bubbles wherever the leak is. One likely place is the rubber valve stem if it wasn't put in new when the tires were replaced. I skipped the new valve stems and later had a leak as the rubber aged.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
It's a '92...
struts/shocks?
bent wheel?
out of alignment?
road force balance needed?
Steve, Host
Most of the vibration is gone after a tire balance, then returns/ worsens again.
As to storage, I do run the car every 3 weeks in the winter for at least 45 min. at speed , fairly religiously, to avoid misc. problems developing ... assuming I can find a road clear of ice/salt. If weekend weather is good, it goes out more!
But some vibration has staid with me despite a new driveshaft (frozen cv joints),turned f/r rotors, new fr.rotors & f/r pads, alignment, multiple (4) tire balances, etc. All suspension work was done in Aug & Sep 03 by Goodyear, an alignment/brake specialty shop, and Firestone dealer. I rebalanced in Oct, then left problem to deal with in Spring... etc. Unfortunately, problem is still here!
If you had replaced the worn tires with the OEM tires, you probably would notice a drastic reduction in noise, and improved traction. The wear slowly changes the original tires. It's a slow process so we don't realize how much change there is.
I currently have 70K on X-Ones and I notice they're much noisier than they used to be. They are harder. There's not as much tread depth to absorb the impacts, so all gets transmitted to the carcass and to the car.
The higher ridge of rubber gives better with side thrust so it maintains contact with the road better. The shorter ridge of rubber tends to scrub sideways and doesn't have the flex to stick to the contact point.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
If you are running the vehicle once every 3 weeks, I hope you aren't driving fast or hard. This heats up the tires, which promotes flatspotting - unless you allow everything to cool down gradually - which means a long time at slow speeds. Or you could allow the tires to cool for 15 minutes then move the car forward 1 foot. This creates 2 small flatspots instead of 1 large one.
There are a lot of sources for wheel end vibrations: tires, mounting, brake rotors, bearings, etc. Individually, they might not be a problem, but if each is added together, the acculative effect may be enough to exceed the threshold of sensitivity.
Another way to say this is: Things may be so bad, that any additional problem pushes it over the edge. Fix one of the problems, like balancing the wheels, and it gets better, but just even not to be sensed. It looks like you're going to have to find out if there are additional sources to really eliminate the problem completely.
There are ways to improve the sensitivity of the vehicle, but those are usually counterproductive for handling - for example softer bushings.
Do you have aftermarket wheels? These generally do not pilot on the hub and a little eccentric mounting can really develop a vibration. Then every time the wheels get taken off, they are put back in a different place.
Hope this helps.
$20-30/tire seems somewhat steep and almost not worth it on tires that already are at least half worn. I am hoping to bring the truck to Discount Tire tomorrow to see what they say about all this.
Would the same condition exist if I put new tires on the vehicle without doing anything to the wheels?
I just recently bought a used set of aluminum rims for snow tires on for my wifes Legacy and they were factory painted on the inside. That looks like a good way to prevent that corrosion from starting. The rims were off a 98 Legacy GT and had been in winter conditions, and they looked clean on the inside, no corrosion.
My parents' Legacy was a 1995 LS, so presumably their rims were NOT factory-painted on the inside.
The longevity of these Michelin LTX M/S tires seems to be a two-edged sword. The vehicle logs about 20k miles a year, so you'd think the tires would be worn out by 3 years or so. But these tires still have 7/32" - 8/32" remaining on all 4.
Fuzion ZRi or Pirelli Pzero Nero M+S.
I'd like to take a quick poll for those who have experience on either of these tires. First of all, it's my wife's so comfort(quiet) is on the top of her list. I do drive it occasionally, so performance would be second and finally longevity. Price range less than $150.
If there are other tires that I should consider, do let me know.
TIA!!
They have the same overall dimensions, bu the 16" actually has more rubber!
Is it just because they don't sell as many? Or because they figured they can get away with it since people with 17" wheels are used to paying more?
225/55R17's are mostly high performance tires - H speed rated and higher - while 225/60R16's can be S rated all season tires. Completely different animals.