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Whether it is still in effect I do not know.
My RX is supposed to be delivered 5/7, one can only hope.
Mark
When we purchased our RX in early April, it had a $1,500 discount for a bunch of options grouped together. But in the end, we worked off invoice price, so it made no difference.
-Craig
Also, did any of you have the ignition to the "on" position while programming it? The Homelink site mentioned something about some vehicles requiring that, but I didn't see it in the RX manual.
-Craig
The chopper sound is also normal and you will hear the same comment from anyone driving an SUV for that matter. Open more than one window (even just a crack will do). No other solution I know of, as it's a big box aerodynamics issue.
When I get in the RX in the AM I imediately twist/spin the temp level to max and only turn it down to a normal level after the cabin begins to feel comfortable. Even in this mode the blower will not run (except in defrost mode) until the engine water jacket rises to 130F.
But in truth I do think you have some sort of failure mode in your RX HVAC. It is very likely that the "mixing vane" is hanging up or getting stuck in the low "reheat" position.
Whenever the OAT is above 35F, ALL of the air entering the HVAC system is first dehumidified by first CHILLING it, passing it through the A/C evaporator. SOME of this chilled airflow is then REHEATED by passing it through the heater core.
The percentage of total airflow to be reheated is controlled by a mixing vane which directs a proportional amount of the airflow exiting the chiller through the heater core depending on the desired/computed temperature of the system's final exit airflow.
If the mixing vane cannot swing full tilt, ALL chilled airflow reheated, then the symtoms you relate would probably occur.
In 2005 TRW will introduce a system that measures MRT (Mean Radiant Temperature) and will adjust the system based on true human body environmental effects.
Till then... TURN UP THE HEAT!!!
This "buffeting" sound has been around even since cars were first "closed" and thus needed windows.
Close the windows or buy ear plugs, your choice.
I've got two stone chips in the front and I dont's need anymore. What's even more noticeable is that a black Rex is white underneath the topcoat.
Thanks,
TC
I purchased a set of Lexus front mats from IronToad.com and I'm very pleased. Nice deep grooves and heavy rubber construction that comes in two colors which match with the interior. Mine are brown and match my RX300 Ivory interior with brown accents. IronToad.com charges $36 for the front set and $28 for the rear set. Highly recommended plus significantly cheaper versus WeatherTech 3rd party mats.
You're talking about the 3M film for autos, right? I know there are folks here that have had it done, but it just reminds me of when I was a kid and my mother would leave the plastic on the couch.
Plus, I'd worry about wax around the edges, etc.
Steve
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Thanks, but no thanks. It'll cost more than a grand to properly repaint a Lexus or MB. Besides, with a Black car, you have no clearcoat. I can't see putting adhesive directly on my black paint.
...Clear 8-millimeter-thick urethane StonGard film is peeled from its backing...
EIGHT millimeters??? Hmm, that's 5/16", got to look funny... ...but now I understand the protection factor...
Tarik with a big'o'grin
Only Boobs, bless'em every one, need bra's.
The RX will try to maintain the desired temperature automatically even with the compressor off, but of course it can't reduce the temperature of the incoming air below ambient. It can add heat.
One advantage the HL will have over the RX is slightly more cargo space. If you list the things that are important to you then maybe folks can give some more precise advice.
Pete
If this car turns out to be as good as my LS400, I will be a very happy owner.
Pete
I installed a weathertech hood deflector on my 2000 RX. The car is the light green, but looks tan, and the delfector is smoke colored. It looks fine to me and I feel better having it there.
Dennis
Just crack another window open, that should take care of it.
You have a "big box" (the back of your SUV, station wagon, etc.). Air is moving in rapidly through one opening. Where is all that air suppose to go? It goes out through the same opening it came in. That helicopter sound you hear is the "beat frequency" (the resultant difference between two different frequencies) from the two air streams hitting each other. When you crack another window, the air pressue from inside the cabin has somewhere else to go.
Hope this helps.
Think of your car as a really BIG bottle, with 60 MPH airflow parallel to a window, sunroof, etc, the larger the "CAVITY" the lower the frequency of the "whistle", RUMBLE!
The proper term for the effect is a "standing wave", the air "pressure wave" enters the cabin, arrives at the furtherest "distance(s)" from the opening, and then becuase this "pressure wave" cannot be dissapated within the cabin it is reflected backward toward the opening. The time for the round trip at the speed of sound determines the frequency.
Oh, opening a second window might result in an even louder sound but likely of a different frequency. In my old Ford station wagons I could open the rear window and solve the problem.
The answer? I guess you either slow down, close the window, or open enough windows that no "pressure wave" can be created.
Harry
But to answer your question...
Some of us don't like to be isolated from the world... the smell of newly mown hay, etc.
Some of us try to conserve fuel by not using the A/C.
Some of us really don't like "stagnant" air.
Some of us find cool and dry airflow a bit uncomfortable.
For myself I almost always open the sunroof in the tilt-up position in order to get more fresh airflow through the vehicle even with the A/C on, but then I live in Seattle, not Arizona.
In case you haven't noticed the airlines, with our government's encouragement, are now trying to conserve fuel by reducing the amount of outflow air from the cabin. Feeling a bit stuffy in there?
Now that most luxury brands are needlessly running the A/C constantly I have to wonder if they are restricting the amount of air outflow for the very same reason.
I do notice that NONE of the Lexus models seem to have a reasonable level of outflow/incoming fresh air.
Just upgrading to 17x8 wheels with 30mm spacers/adapters all around (required on the rear for clearance) and would like to add more stability by also lowering it a bit.
Does any one know if the nav in RX300 is any different the one in 470 ?
P.S. The LS430 and the RX300 are not the same. Very close, but not.
My physics professor did the calculations when I was in college. What a geek.
Unless you manually select recirculate, you should be getting all fresh air in the vehicle from the vents.
Mark
Almost all luxury cars severely limit the amount of fresh air "allowed" into the car. I notice MB has finally wised up and is using a humidity sensor to determine how much fresh air to let in.
If the outside air temperature is below my summertime comfort setpoint, 72F, then the A/C compressor is TOTALLY inefficient. Unless you are overly senstive to humidity levels. That is all that the A/C compressor can or will do in this circumstance, cool the air to dehumidfy it, and then the system will reheat the air to your comfort level.
Dennis
I too, find it hard to believe that the system couldn't find my address. I have tried to look up my address using yahoo maps and mapquest etc and see no problems there :-(
clee4:
I am thinking I should actually try it with an RX300 nav instead of an LX470 and see if it makes any difference. I do agree with you however that the database in different models is more than likely the same.