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The full time system used a viscous clutch or clutches, and since that allowed for some "give" in the drivetrain it could be used full-time. The part-time system apparently had "rigid" drive couplings. If you tried to turn a tight circle on dry pavement in this mode you could easily bust some knuckles and the front would alternatively "hop" and "skid" around.
I had not heard the term "permanent 4WD" until now but it does seem appropreate for use instead of full-time AWD.
Oh, I tend not to use the low-range gearbox as a defining term simply because it really has nothing to do, logically, with multi-wheel drive operation. I think it just happens to have become standard equipment with true 4WD.
You're going to have to look through all these post, but I do remember someone did find a exact match for around $10. Good luck.
NAV ADJUSTMENT
I remember reading and playing with the RX nav when I found a reset button. I believe the manual said that it should be used when new tires are installed on the vehicle. Is this the same thing that you're talking about as an option for the 2002?
Any guidance is appreciated.
Sometimes also temperature controlled Tarik
But the end result is the same.....heat the cat as fast as possible for emissions purposes.
BTW, our RX is a '99 AWD bought new. I wasn't aware that later model RXs shifted differently. Regardless, no worries. Enjoy your RX!!!!
1. Every time I start the car, after changing the shift and releasing the brake padel, and start to drive, I can hear a clank probably from the front wheels - sounds like some mechanic device get activated. Has anyone else experienced that? Is that normal? What is it?
2. Sometimes during the stop at traffic light (with foot on brake), I can hear a high pitched whistling sound from the engine compartment, not very loud but noticeable if you listen to it. It disappears when I start to drive again (I'm not sure if it goes away or is disguised by the usual driving noise). It happens often but not regularly like the first sound. Sometimes when the outside is really quiet (late night), I can hear this whistling while the car is moving (foot not on the gas pedal). Should I be concerned?
There's a 3rd kind of sound that I think might be normal: after long drive, when I parked the car and stepped out, I can hear some periodical clicking sound from the chasis, gradually disappears while the car is completely cooling down.
From: Willard West
To: Customer_Satisfaction_Inquiries@lexus.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2001 12:56 PM
Subject: RX300 AWD
Dear Sirs,
As I sit here writing this, before me is an enlarged drawing of the 2000 RX300 center/front differential, viscous clutch, and transfer gearing. The way I see, interpret, this diagram the transmission output drive goes first to the center (open) differential and one output from that differential goes to the front (open) differential and the other to one set of the viscous clutch plates. The other set of viscous clutch plates connect to a ring gear driving a pinion gear, driving the rear drive shaft.
As I see it, absent the viscous clutch in line,in series, with the rear output, the RX300 AWD setup is virtually a duplicate of the MB ML320 AWD setup.
In the RX300 what purpose does the viscous clutch serve except to substantially reduce the level of engine torque that can be delivered in "normal" (all wheels having traction) driving conditions? Given that the viscous clutch fluid will ALWAYS provide a "soft" coupling to the rear, how is it possible to deliver more than, say, a theoretical maximum of 49% of the available engine torque to the rear wheels? Obviously it would only reach this theoretical maximum in adverse traction conditions, normal, or latent traction would be dependent on the base, non-heated, viscosity of the viscous fluid.
Doesn't this drive setup, based on the (your) proper interpretation of your own drawings, result in the RX300 being predominantly a front wheel drive vehicle, with latent torque bias heavily to the front?.
When turning a corner the "overall" rotational rate of the front wheels differs slightly from that of the rear wheels aand if something doesn't "give" between them then the wheels will "give" by skidding and hopping, while causing severe knuckle-busting feedback to the steering wheel. The viscous clutch is there primarily to provide that slippage.
So prior to adding TRAC (like the ML320) in the 2001 model year the RX300 had three OPEN differentials (unless you ordered the limited slip rear differential) meaning any wheel that had slippage got ALL the engine torque. No wonder the RX couldn't drive up that ramp.
I hope the Electronic Trac system actually works.
See:
http://www.autoweb.lycos.com/garage/subsys/bafour06.htm
I also know that as of 2-3 months ago, only 2 or 3 seats were up to the new standard.
I'm having a baby and obviously want to get the safest.
Thanks,
Mike
wegstereo, you are thinking of the ISOFIX anchors and, based on prior posts (and my poor ol' failing memory, the 01 RX indeed has them on all three rear seating positions (none in the front cause child seats don't belong there).
willard, that's why I specified limited slip on my better half's 99 AWD. and as i said before, i appreciate all your experiments, both mechanical and electrical. assume NOTHING!
Now I just need to find out who makes the seats.
Here's a picture you can use to compare with your RX300 diagram if you wish:
http://www.4x4abc.com/ML320/ML_specsIII.html
http://www.4x4abc.com/ML320/txcut.html
Drew
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Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
I've read (but haven't verified) that Toyota was to offer this deal and was hoping this might spill over to Lexus. If so, I'd definitely look into replacing my '99 with a 2001 or 2002 MY.
I have no idea why Lexus didn't include a mounting point in the middle for a forward facing car seat. The MDX has them...
-Craig
What functions of these are available for customization. (For example, can the door locks be activated automatically once the car is in motion. )
Also is this new to 2002 Models or is available for 2001 also.
1. Wireless Door Lock System
Open door warning
Wireless buzz volume
Wireless operation
Car finder
Alarm function
Interior light on/unlock
Unlock all
Auto lock Delay
2. Door Lock Control System
Unlock all two turns
3. Theft Deterrent System
Answer back hazard
Passive mode
4. Power Window System
Up/door key
Down/door key
Down, wireless
5. Illuminated Entry System
Lighting time
IE on/unlock
6. Reminder System
Light remind
Key remind sound
Key remind volume
7. Automatic Light Control System
Light off delay
Light control type
Sensitivity
8. Moon Roof Control System
Open/door key
Close/door key
Open/wireless
Door key operation
Wireless operation
9. Air conditioner (moon roof models only)
Set temp shift
Air inlet mode
Compressor mode
Compressor/defroster operation
Air inlet operation
The date shown on my source for this information was April 9, 1999; don't know if it has been updated since. The speed-sensitive auto door lock function is NOT available on this model!
Pete
Pete
My wife's 30k service on her 99 RX was $550 incl all parts, labor and tax. That was around the first of the year so labor has probably gone up another $5/hr......aarrrrggghhh.
I will need to check and compare charges, as the next dealer is at least 75mls away from me. Pete, drive the distance, get a loaner for the day, enjoy the area and drive back home - sounds like a plan to me.
Re my gas mileage problem, after two more extensive road trips, its back to normal - actually a little better than ever! Could it be that driving in S mode messes up the trans' adaptive function that quickly? How long an input will the computer consider in making the decisions about how to shift. Is it accumulative from day one, accumulative for a certain time (FIFO), or does it reset itself every time you switch from one mode to the other? Maybe the Rex fixed the problem 'cause I drove it for a couple of 100 miles... ...and TC, if you call my wife again to tell, I'll have a serious word with you... ...how do you spell oxymoron...?
Healing from the fuel consumption shock Tarik
Transmission oil is simply hydraulic fluid, something Boeing 737 owners NEVER change. While engine lubricating oil is formulated to hold contaminants in suspension so they can be drained away at oil change time, transmission fluid is formulated SPECIFICALLY not to carry contaminants.
The only contaminant in your transmission is from the clutch surfaces and anyone who has eevr opened a transmission pan knows that you will find a layer of those in the bottom of the pan.
There is only two reasons for EVER changing out transmission fluid, if it is burned, which anyone can tell with a simple SMELL test, and at overhaul time. I think in the BMW X5 brochure they say NEVER change the transmission fluid.
Differential OIL is yet another "lubricating" fluid that doesn't wear out and the only contaminants it might accumulate would be metal particles from FAILING internal components. If you garage does insist on changing out your differential fluid then you might as well have them test it for contaminants and at least get some benefit from this WASTE.
I cannot believe that there is any real benefit, other sending the dealer's sons and daughters through college, in changing out anti-freeze for any reason other than it having lost its ability to prevent freeze-up at whatever levels of cold you expect to encounter in your region.
I have mostly lived here in the Seattle area since 1961, with some time spent in Montana (51F below one night). I test my anti-freeze every fall (just about now) and I have NEVER drained and refilled except for some type of repair.
My 92 LS has about 75k on it and still has the factory anti-freeze. Oh, I do add more anti-freeze, not water, if the system gets a little low. I think I have had to do that just once in the 92.
So, if you really have this kind of money to waste, why not send it off to the American Red Cross, where it really will get something good done. You might even quote my missive to the dealer and see if he agrees.
I suspect most reputable dealers, given this particular option, would.
PS. The silicon fluid in the viscous probably WORKS harder than any other fluid in the vehicle yet it is in a sealer unit, if the dealer insists on changing out your fluids, adsk him why not do that one also.
Brake fluid is hygroscopic, and its performance only degrades as it is exposed to the atmosphere and absorbs moisture as a result. In normal use this just flat does not happen!
But my real concern about this matter is just how, exactly, do these dealers go about accomplishing this task. First, replacing the entire volume of brake fluid, without inadvertantly compromising its performance, or that of the brake system itself, is NOT an easy thing to do, especially now with ABS, Trac, and VSC.
Most of the routine (mindless) jobs in these dealer shops are performed by low salaried gofers, and here they are making brake work, at least this type "routine".
I think, overall, I would rather trust that the factory did it right the first time, and leave it at that, at least until I need some type of brake work done that results in opening the system to the atmosphere.
And, when I am doing work on my brakes I go out and buy the very best brake fluid I can. Where do you think your Lexus dealer gets his?
Now I know absolutely nothing about the rumored sludge issue in the RX engine, but I would hazard a guess that at the end of the day it might have something to do with a few dealers buying bulk, recycled, CHEAP engine lubricating oil for use in their shops.
One more final word. My 2001 RX300 owners manual indicates most of the work you are talking about is only needed for ROUGH SERVICE use.
And I also agree with you on the issue of gofers doing work on rakes/steering and other parts relevant for safety, never a good feeling.
Tarik
This RX owner is a follower of Amsoil. Amsoil apparently claims that their oil will last for an extended mileage period if one follows their procedural recommendations.
The RX has been driven 25,000+ miles and the owner believes that it has an oil sludge problem -and he also states the fact that he has performed just a single oil change in this period should not be cause for Lex/Toy to disregard his warranty claim.
Part of the discussion has gone towards who should shoulder the blame and expense - owner because of too few changes, Amsoil because of their claim, or Lex/Toy under original warranty.
Call me crazy but there are screws around that plate to unscrew to get to, why cut a hole.
has anyone heard of this? Can you please let me know how oil changes go for a rx300? what if you brought it to a jiffy lube, would they reject you because they can not get to it?
Part of my anger is that they performed this without asking and then doing it without telling me. Would they not think I would not notice this?
I am livid about this. Will be talking to their management about this. thankfully they will be getting a replacement part for this and replace for me but still the trouble and I feel dishonesty of this.
Has anyone encountered this? maybe this will teach me to only go to Lexus dealership to get oil changes.
Thanks for the time
So is it really true that you are "one of one" with engine sludge problems? If so I for one am absolutely sure Lexus would have resolved your problem long ago, to your complete satisfaction, if it were not for your long term use of Amsoil.
I'm not saying Amsoil is at fault at all, its just that it definitely constitutes a "wild card" in the Lexus warranty equation.
I wish you good luck, but you should remember that if this were a "simple", one off, engine failure, and no "wild card" Lexus would have quickly resolved it to your satisfaction.
Subject:
Fw: RX300 AWD
At 10/04/2001 12:35 PM we wrote -
Dear Mr. West:
Thank you for contacting the Lexus Customer Satisfaction Department. We appreciate your enthusiasm in our product. I apologize that our department is not designed as a technical center. We rely on our Lexus dealers for technical information since they have been trained on the systems and components of our vehicles. Please contact your Lexus dealer for answers to your questions. I am sorry that I am unable to be of further assistance regarding technical questions.
Your Question:
----- Original Message -----
From: Willard West
To: Customer_Satisfaction_Inquiries@lexus.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 03, 2001 12:56 PM
Subject: RX300 AWD
Dear Sirs,
As I sit here writing this, before me is an enlarged drawing of the 2000 RX300 center/front differential, viscous clutch, and transfer gearing. The way I see, interpret, this diagram the transmission output drive goes first to the center (open) differential and one output from that differential goes to the front (open) differential and the other to one set of the viscous clutch plates.The other set of viscous clutch plates connect to a ring gear driving a pinion gear, driving the rear drive shaft.
As I see it, absent the viscous clutch in line,in series, with the rear output, the RX300 AWD setup is virtually a duplicate of the MB ML320 AWD setup.
In the RX300 what purpose does the viscous clutch serve except to substantially reduce the level of engine torque that can be delivered in "normal" (all wheels having traction) driving conditions? Given that the viscous will ALWAYS provide a "soft" coupling to the rear, how is it possible to deliver more than, say, a theoretical maximun of 49% of the available engine torque to the rear wheels? Obviously it would only reach this theoretical maximum in adverse traction conditions, normal, or latent traction would be dependent on the base, non-heated, viscosity of the viscous fluid.
Doesn't this drive setup, based on the (your) proper interpretation of your own drawings, result in the RX300 being predominatly a front wheel drive vehicle, with latent torque bias heavily to the front?.
If your issue remains unresolved, please update this question here.
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If you have any further concerns, you can also reach the Lexus Customer Satisfaction Department at 1-800-255-3987, Monday through Friday, 6:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m., Pacific Time. Sincerely, Kevin Saylan Customer Satisfaction Representative
Most of us who purchase "SUVs" do so in the belief that they will provide better traction in slippery, muddy, roadbed conditions. Generally we trust in the manufacturers not to cleverly deceive us about the true nature of these vehicles.
I was deceived right along with everyone else, I bought a 2000 RX300 to replace a 92 Jeep. When the announcement came out that the 2001 model included Trac (Trac was standard on the 2000 FWD RX) I got suspicious and curious at the same time.
After doing a minimal level of research I came to the realization that I had not purchased a drive setup anywhere near that of the Jeep. The 99 and 00 RX300 have three "open" differentials, with no ability, like the Jeep, to "lock" any of these. So I traded up to the 2001 RX. I hope the Trac works as it should.
Lexus is technically correct, both the 99 and 00 RX300 deliver torque to all four wheels...
JUST AS LONG AS ALL FOUR WHEELS HAVE GOOD TRACTION!!
If any one of the four wheels lose traction with the roadbed then any and all torque delivered by the engine will be routed to the slipping wheel. The only exception to this is if you order a limited slip differential for the rear axles.
c-mon! class action in works,to late for lexus.
They will not put it in writing that my warranty is void hmmmmmmm? guilty! Time will tell,
I have plenty of it.
Gimpy, good luck. I'm of two minds about your situation, but regardless, but I do hope for a satisfactory outcome for you. Keep us posted (funny how appropriate that relatively old fashioned phrase has become these days).
Again, without disparaging Amsoil's product in any way, you had a "contract" with Lexus and you voided that "contract", clearly, knowingly, and intentionally, by not abiding by its terms.
I imagine the only reason Lexus has not told you to take a hike is in fear of the some level of ill-advised adverse publicity by the media that might result. It seems to me that since Amsoil "encouraged" you not to abide by your contract with Lexus then they should be the one's who carry the burden, not Lexus.
I basically agree with your position, it is extremely unlikely that the Amsoil product was somehow directly responsible for your problems. But think about this:
1. How much sooner might you have discovered that your oil was contaminated with glycol if you had changed it on a more regular basis?
2. Can you truly say with certainty that not changing your engine oil, and therefore not taking advantage of all the "renewed" oil additives that come with oil changes, wasn't the root cause of some engine seal failure that led to glycol in the crankcase?
As I think I have said before, engine lubricating oil does not "wear out". It does, however, over time, become contaminated with the by-products of combustion and in the process of doing the "work" for which they were designed the many additives in modern day engine lubricating oils become less useful.
As you are now aware an oil filter can be used to remove contamination in "particulate " form, but it will not filter out liquid contaminants, nor can it somehow renew the many additives so they can continue to do their work.
Good luck, but if I were you I would seriously consider cross-filing (proper term?) a claim against Amsoil as a contributing cause.
Does not matter when I changed the oil,glycol should not be in it.
torque...Thanks
This dealer also claims that they will be doing away with the $1500 value package discount and that I will have to pay list on an '02.
Edmund's does list 2002 pricing . It looks like the invoice and msrp prices haven't changed, i.e. about $37,000 invoice, $42,000 msrp for Nav, heated seats for either year. No TMV for 2002 yet.
Has anybody seen a 2002? Any "subtle" changes? Any good deals on an '02?
Thanks for any info!
Ron
The cost of the 30K service was $350 and this included pick up/delivery and a loaner car and I live 80 miles away.
I am very pleased with their service and will probably trade for a LS in the next couple of years.
My new RX300 with only 3k miles just got a flat last night... I did not run over anything, and nothing is embedded in the tire.. it just went flat!
Anyway, Goodyear refuses to replace under their warranty...
Any suggestions?
Thanks!
It's either leaking from the tire itself or the valve/seal area.
Been there..
I had to pay over $7 for a little bottle of paint. For what I paid for the RX, I expected more service. Am I alone on this one? Anyone got free touch-up paint?