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Questions About Financing New Vehicles

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Comments

  • grandtotalgrandtotal Member Posts: 1,207
    72 months, 25%, $349 per month = $12956. Not sure why the dealer offered a 2 month warranty, won't a 2006 Nissan have a new car warranty? That is unless it has high mileage or has been involved in a bad accident. I'd run a CarFax for peace of mind.
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    is there anything i can do at this point?

    Drive it, make the payments on time and try to put as much to the principal as you can. Once you have shown that you have a good pay history re-fi it. I don't know if a few months will do it like another poster said but 12 months should.

    It is to late for you but a piece of advice for those who read this who may be in the same situation.

    Ask if there is a college student purchase program. Ford Credit currently has one where if you are in college and have a job you can finance with them under the program as long as you don't have chronic bad credit. It caps the tier so if you purchase a new car the worst case scenario if you take the rebate is in the 12-13% range. Not great but allot better in then 25%. In this case that is $4300 more car you could have purchased. Take that and the rebates and you are in a new Fusion or Focus. Actually on a Fusion you could get 8.9% and be riding in a well equipped, brand new car.

    I am not plugging Ford, I am guessing most manufactures have some kind of program similar to this.

    First time car buyers with out a co-signer some times have to take there lumps to get started, it is up to them to control how big the lump is.
  • atlantaangel84atlantaangel84 Member Posts: 6
    I know, I know.... they were like this is the only bank that would finance me, capital one that is.
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Member Posts: 24,192
    I was looking through rebate info here on Edmunds and found a $2000 rebate with the condition that the car would be financed through the company's captive finance arm. How would the experts interpret this?

    Does it mean that if you pay cash you can't have the rebate? Would you think that you would have to finance 100% of the cost or could you just finance a $1000 or so to qualify? How would early payment effect the rebate?

    I'm aware that most companies exclude low financing with rebates but this is the first time I've seen them bundled like this. Is it common?

    I usually pay cash for my cars so I may be out of the loop on this one.

    2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible

  • atlantaangel84atlantaangel84 Member Posts: 6
    It has roughly 44K miles on it.
  • atlantaangel84atlantaangel84 Member Posts: 6
    First time car buyers with out a co-signer some times have to take there lumps to get started, it is up to them to control how big the lump is.
    The salesman was saying that since I have never financed a car before, I would have to "prove" myself to the bank.
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    Does it mean that if you pay cash you can't have the rebate?

    That is exactly what it means Old Farmer

    Would you think that you would have to finance 100% of the cost or could you just finance a $1000 or so to qualify? How would early payment effect the rebate?

    With Ford there is no minimum to finance. Cash buyers who just want the rebate usually finance like $5K or something.

    Ford is a simple interest lender with no penalty for early pay off so you can do what you like with the loan. I usually suggest though waiting till the second payment so you can be sure Ford has received the title prior to you sending your check to pay it off.
  • travelingtom90travelingtom90 Member Posts: 3
    I have an item on my lease documents called rent charge for about $8300.00 What is that? I live in Georgia
  • kyfdxkyfdx Moderator Posts: 265,476
    It is the total finance amount of the lease.

    Depreciation
    + Finance charges
    + Tax

    / Term

    = Lease Payment

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  • satellissatellis Member Posts: 6
    I am just curious as to the length of time buyers finance their vehicles for nowadays. I am shopping for a Mazda CX-7 right now and told the dealer 60 months is the absolute max I want to finance a vehicle for. In the course of conversation he mentioned that since January he has only had 1 customer who did 60 months. Everyone else has done 72 months (with the exception of those who are buying outright of course). I'm not trying to prove or disprove him. He was an exceptional salesman. I was just surprised to hear this. In the past, I never liked financing even for 60 months but to get the vehicle I wanted and keep the payment down I had to.

    So, if you financed your last vehicle purchase, how long did you finance it for? Or if you sell cars, what length of time do you find most people finance for?
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    For about the last year or two 72 has become the new 60. With all of the low rates on 6 years i.e 0% 1.9, 2.9 etc why not ride there money for as long as possible. My wifes car is on a 0% for 72 loan and I didn't think twice about it. We also do allot of 72 month on conventional loans.
  • biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    I put half down and financed the rest for 60 months. Had a very low rate and this way I could leave the rest of my savings in a money market account and still come out ahead.

    Usually I pay cash. This was the first car I've carried any financing on since 1984.
  • toobztoobz Member Posts: 4
    If the manufacturer is offering the low interest for the extended term take it. You can always pay more have it go towards the principal. Mercedes-Benz is offering 1.9% on C230 sport sedans for 72 months. Current CD's and money markets are paying 4%. I purchased a C-class and the dealer bought the rate down to 0%. Great deal! The longer term gives you more car for the money, as long as the interest is cheap! :)
  • webgirlwebgirl Member Posts: 8
    Long story short: my fiance and I bought a Scion a few weeks ago, and while the payment is within our means we ridiculously overpaid by getting suckered into the lower interest rate with the Toyota financing add-ons.

    What is the best thing to do at this point? Just pay the loan off as quickly as we can? I am kicking myself over this because I knew this was a bad move but was a first-time buyer and trusted my fiance's judgment.
  • biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    Yes, probably just try to pay it off as soon as possible.

    It's not clear exactly what you overpaid on - the car itself or the add-ons like extended warranty and so forth?

    If you or your fiance is a member of a credit union, you could probably get better financing terms there. If not, chalk it up to experience, pay it off as soon as possible, and move on to worrying about other things like your wedding!

    Speaking from personal experience - the months before the wedding can be so nerve-wracking that really minor stuff can blow up and appear major. Since you say the payment is within your means, sounds like you haven't done anything all THAT horrendous. Let it go and move on with your life.
  • steine13steine13 Member Posts: 2,825
    Scion is supposed to be sold under a one-price model.

    Why don't you tell us the details, perhaps on Real-World Trade-In Values, and let the pros tell you how you did.

    I doubt it's as bad as you think.
    And since you blame your fiance for it, learning this might be good for the relationship, if ya know what I mean...

    A lot of people get most of their exercise jumping to conclusions...
    -Mathias
  • british_roverbritish_rover Member Posts: 8,502
    Yeah I am confused here how bad can the add ons be?

    We are talking a one price brand and a low interest rate from Toyota Financial.
  • webgirlwebgirl Member Posts: 8
    Thank you for your responses - I TRULY appreciate it.

    We overpaid for add-ons (like Lo-Jack, etc.) because the way they worked with the payments it SEEMED like a better deal at the time because we financed through Toyota and my credit was shaky. I hadn't been planning on replacing my car until September because I had credit issues that I've taken steps to fix for the past year or so (got completely out of credit card debt, etc.) and I was saving for a downpayment.

    They bumped me up a credit tier with my fiance as a co-signer and lowered the interest rate so when we saw the payment I thought "oh, ok that's manageable" but I didn't even THINK about how much TOTAL we were financing. I should have just done financing through Capital One at a higher rate because then I would have financed thousands of dollars LESS and I would have had the option to refinance anyway eventually.

    Our initial payments are lower now than if I used Capital One but now I'm stuck with all these stupid add-ons and refinancing isn't going to save me much money at ALL.

    Essentially, the difference numerically is financing $20,000 (with TT&L) at 11% through CapitalOne, or financing $25,000 (TT&L and add-ons) through Toyota at 6%.

    I love the car but dammit. We could have bought a $25,000 car instead of an $18,000 car for the same money. And I didn't even WANT a $25k car.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,736
    Well, I'm going to assume you added things like a warranty? service contract? Those things can sometimes be cancelled for a refund.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • webgirlwebgirl Member Posts: 8
    I didn't think of that - I assumed they were all written in stone. I'm off to read my fine print.
  • webgirlwebgirl Member Posts: 8
    Forgot to add that I didn't have a trade-in. My dad bought me a car that I drove for 10 years but he wouldn't give me the title for trade-in, and the repairs exceeded the value of the car, which I'd already put $2k in repairs for over the past two years.
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    Our initial payments are lower now than if I used Capital One but now I'm stuck with all these stupid add-ons and refinancing isn't going to save me much money at ALL.

    If the numbers you gave are correct then the payments can't be lower.

    $20K @ 11%=$431 X 60

    $25K @ 6%= $483 X 60

    You must be confused on your numbers
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,736
    I think what the poster was saying was her INITIAL payments are lower. Meaning the Toyota dealer gave a better rate. BUT with all the add-ons tacked on, the payments are consequently higher, even with the better rate.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    Ok, I thought they meant that even though the payment is lower through Toyota they still felt like they were taken due to the Lojack Security System, etc. What the hell did they sell you for $5k?

    BTW was the Lojack pre-installed or do they still have to install it. If it was pre-installed then you knew you were getting it right?

    This is why I like working in a menu based full disclosure store. I NEVER get phone calls/complaints about aftermarket products being sold the customer did not want.
  • webgirlwebgirl Member Posts: 8
    Yes, that's what I meant joel0622. With the higher rate I could refinance eventually and my payments would be signicicantly less. I can still refi now but it's not going to change my payment all that much.

    My mistake was looking at the payment instead of the total cost. BAD move. Now I know better. I just wondered if there was anything I can do post-bad decision-making besides pay it off very quickly and count my blessings that we didn't get ourselves into something that would drive us broke.
  • asafonovasafonov Member Posts: 401
    I just wondered if there was anything I can do post-bad decision-making besides pay it off very quickly and count my blessings that we didn't get ourselves into something that would drive us broke.

    You wrote you got a 6% rate - this is good these days, especially for less-than-perfect credit. And the money is spent, refinancing will not reduce the amount owed, and with the existing low 6% rate, is unlikely to reduce the payments.

    I really don't see why you want to pay it off quickly - unless you have a significant amount of cash parked in a money market earning 3% or so.
  • webgirlwebgirl Member Posts: 8
    Good point. I was hoping there was a fix that would make me feel better about spending so much on an inexpensive car. Alas, no. Hmmm. I'd feel less bad if it were actually $25k worth of car.
  • asafonovasafonov Member Posts: 401
    Good point. I was hoping there was a fix that would make me feel better about spending so much on an inexpensive car. Alas, no. Hmmm. I'd feel less bad if it were actually $25k worth of car.

    From what I understand, you got a reliable, durable and frugal vehicle. You also paid extra for some add-ons and services that you may or may not use - some of these can perhaps be cancelled for a refund. If you keep this for several years, this extra money is unlikely to make a big difference.

    OTOH, if you decide you MUST trade it in today or a year from now, you may have a hard time getting most of this "extra" money back. Since you are posting here asking for guidance, you are too smart to trade in a one-year-old car :)
  • webgirlwebgirl Member Posts: 8
    Thank you for your guidance. :) I DO actually feel a little better. In the very least I really, really do like the car, and to get a Civic or something else in its class with the same features would have cost a few thousand more anyway and I'll probably drive this until it breaks or I do.

    ...still, though. Bad move. LOL.
  • biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    People always say you learn from experience. Making bad decisions is how you get the experience!! ;-)

    Chalk it up as one of those things you've learned from. Next contract you sign - like for a house! - I bet you'll be very, very careful.

    Good luck with getting out of some of those add-ons, hope you can do that.
  • oldfarmer50oldfarmer50 Member Posts: 24,192
    "...Making bad decisions is how you get experience!!..."

    An expert is just someone who has made every possible mistake.

    2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible

  • zeonstarzeonstar Member Posts: 4
    Hey all,

    I just have a quick question, I hope it's not a dumb one. Can you refinance more than once?
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    "Can you refinance more than once?"

    No- once would be a refinance, the second time would be a rerefinance, third time would be a rererefinance, etc... ;)

    Yes, you can refianance more than once
  • mitzijmitzij Member Posts: 613
    Not dumb at all. Yes, you can refinance as many times as you want to. It's not usually a good financial move, but it can be done. My big Sis has refinanced three times. In theory, she's still paying on the Blazer she wrecked 9 years ago. The debt just rolls over, and over, and over.
  • zeonstarzeonstar Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info, it is good to know. I was just thinking about how I could whittle my APR down, but I should probably just be glad I got it down under 10% with this being my first car purchase and my credit being only decent.

    Now if I was to really fix my credit and try again in a few months or even a year... that could be more worthwhile...
  • gasman1gasman1 Member Posts: 321
    I was just thinking about how I could whittle my APR down, but I should probably just be glad I got it down under 10% with this being my first car purchase and my credit being only decent.

    Now if I was to really fix my credit and try again in a few months or even a year... that could be more worthwhile
    ...

    Yes it could and you're to be commended for thinking this way. However, it will only work for you (or anyone) to re-finance the remaining balance (or lower) AND do NOT extend the payment term. If your payoff balance is $6,000 and have 24 months remaining on the loan, then don't re-finance more than $6K or a loan longer than 24 months.

    Here's an example that shows $198 savings or $136 additonal expense:

    $6K at 10% for 24 months = $277 month and $645 interest paid.
    $6K at 7% for 24 months = $267 month and $447 interest paid.
    $7K at 7% for 36 months = $216 month and $781 interest paid.

    The expense/savings difference can better if the current APR/loan balance is higher or if the new APR is lower or a shorter term.
  • biancarbiancar Member Posts: 965
    Best bet is to just pay off the loan earlier. Paying as little as $25 a month more can shorten your loan and get you out of debt a bit faster.

    If your payment is something like $267, have $300 automatically taken out of your checking account and paid toward the loan each month. You'll never miss the extra money and you'll save on interest and get that thing off your back.
  • dennis885dennis885 Member Posts: 7
    I think I'm soon going to purchase a new civic and take a loan through Honda Financial. I'm a first time financer I was just curious, once I sign all the paperwork and the car is paid for with the loan, how soon will my first loan payment be due? On the spot, the next month, or something else?

    Thanks
  • cccompsoncccompson Member Posts: 2,382
    No, not on the spot. Usually, they'll just ask and you pick the date. This is nice because you can set the timing to fall into the best part of your monthly bill payment cycle.
  • dennis885dennis885 Member Posts: 7
    OK thats what i figured and why I was curious (to figure it into my bill schedule). Thanks!
  • michaellnomichaellno Member Posts: 4,120
    The first payment is usually due between 30-45 days from deliver, with some flexibility allowed.
  • rokkierokkie Member Posts: 1
    Hi,

    Can i pay the whole money for new car from my account and later apply for the loan. Do the banks give loans to person?? :confuse:
  • tidestertidester Member Posts: 10,059
    Banks make personal loans all the time. They may want collateral and you can use your car for that. However, I'm not sure why you would want to do that.
  • qbrozenqbrozen Member Posts: 33,736
    and personal loans usually have a higher interest rate.

    '11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S

  • rafarafa Member Posts: 35
    Wanted to know if any has bought a car thru nissan motors accp corp. because we went to the dealer last week and we bought a nissan titan. When we filled the credit app the sales guy came back and said we were approved. Then I said how is that possible he said he had called nissan motors gave them my ss# and the gave them an approvel code has anyone heard of this or what we've had the car for a week now
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    If a person has good credit I can get them approved in about 3 minutes at Ford Credit.
  • 1racefan1racefan Member Posts: 932
    I have a friend that makes about $2900 a month. She tells me that she has a credit score over 770. Her mortgage is $1050 month, and she wants to finance a new car in the $18000 range for 60 months - @350/month (she should be able to get a good interest rate with her score).

    She was asking me, with her monthly gross being $2900, her mortgage being $1050, would she be able to get financed for an additional $350 / month note without a co-signer? I told her I thought she would, since her score was so high.

    She typically buys a new car (for the warranty), and drives it until it dies, so this is a vehicle she would more than likely own for 10-15 years. Plus, she tells me the way her budget is worked out, she would be making extra payments as well.

    What say the experts? - Does she get financed without needing a co-signer?
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    With the info you gave here it sounds like a done deal from a credit standpoint.

    If she is doing $18K plus the tax she would need to find a new car with a 2.9% apr on it to get to $350 a month. That is based on TN taxes, they may be more or less then where she lives.

    If the $18K is an OTD price then she would need a rate of 6.23% to get a $350 payment.
  • lrguy44lrguy44 Member Posts: 2,197
    She may have a debt to income problem - most banks like 40% total. The debt is as reported on a credit bureau - i.e. loans, credit cards, mortgage, etc. With her score, she may her approved, but can she afford it?
  • joel0622joel0622 Member Posts: 3,299
    True, my answer was assuming she does not have another $15K in revolving Debt and $45K second mortgage :D
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