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Well, off to the dealer on Monday!
The passenger doors were locking and unlocking fine, but the tailgate door lock was 'stuck' 1/2 way between fully locked and unlocked. It didn't open with the outside handle, so it was locked. Once I cycled the tailgate door lock with the key, everything works fine again. Answer-back works and alarm is fine. I think I need to take the rear panel off and lube up the mechanism.
So, it seems that the answer-back IS related to alarm activation. The alarm light, again, did not blink normally, indicating the alarm didn't arm.
Sbcooke and Paisan, thanks for the feed back to my question. Appreciate the help.
By the way, this is what I found on the net for changing the answer back setting for a 98 Rodeo. I didn't try it. Wasn't sure if this was a key fob reprogram or a possible rain dance:
------------------
Ok Ok, I will translate the manual here (page 5-25 rodeo 98 manual). I just tried this on my 98 rodeo and it worked. I engaged the horn and disengaged it twice.
1. Open driver door (leave open)
2. Insert key in open driver door turn to lock and unlock 3 times within 10 seconds (lock unlock, lock unlock, lock unlock) during lock all locks should engage during unlock just turn enough to lock driver door.
3. Close the door twice within 10 seconds (With key in lock), close open, close open Turn key to lock and unlock 3 times within 10 seconds (lock unlock, lock unlock, lock unlock) same way as in step 2
4. Close door & open the door (doors will lock as you open door)
Now you do one of two things:
5a. Lock and unlock once to engage to horn
5b. Lock and unlock three times (within 10 seconds) to disengage the horn
Now let me transcribe that last step from the manual, the manual reads:
"5. Close the door and open the door Response of Door Lock Motor (Lock,Unlock once, if the fail, Lock and unlock 3 times)."
I think the fact that Door Lock Motor is capitalized like God, says
something about this process.
-------------------------
Here is how you silence the answerback horn. The owner's manual actually has it correct. You need to perform the actions slowly, about one action every second. If you do it to fast, then nothing will happen. With the door open, Lock-Unlock-Lock-Unlock-Lock-Unlock-Close the door-Open the door-Close the door-Open the door-Lock-Unlock-Lock-Unlock-Lock-Unlock-Close the door-Open the door. If you do it successfully, once you open the door for the last
time, the locking mechanism in the door should lock and unlock by itself. Remember, do it slowly.
The roofrackcity.com.au website has a little bit more detail for each type of rack and some can take a lot more load. But wouldn't you know it, the load rating on Thule kits are TBA!!!
Then I got stuck behind a Suzuki Sierra and couldn't get passed it due to lack of visibility.
The TOD indicator showed one bar all the time, at between 80 and 100 km/h. Thinking back though, I really should have gone a little slower as things could have come undone very easily at those speeds. Maybe stay at about 80km/h. However, the TOD was absolutely no problem.
The problem is that everyone wants to make sure they don't get sued for accidents. So they rate them at 100 or 150lbs so that people don't load up a refridge on the roof and then roll over their car and turn around and sue the manufacturer. All aftermarket rack makers usually state whatever # is given for the manufacturer's rack to cover their own butt.
-mike
The guy from Planet Isuzoo on top of the ARB rack is a static load. The fractures won't result until some vibration is generated while loaded.
I did spot one Jackaroo about 6 months ago that had cracks around the roof rack mounts, radiating to the centre of the vehicle. It was a '92 XS and probably was overloaded a number of times.
The vehicle overall looked like it had much better days, had 350,000km on the clock (220,000 miles?). Generally very shabby in appearance but sounded ok mechanically. It had been across the Gunbarrel highway twice, which would have exposed it to a lot of corrugated roadway. The vibration from the corrugated road and heavy loading would certainly induce fracturing of the roof.
Today's tendency to build cars with slide-in roof panels does result in lower roof load capacities. The roof of a current Trooper (or Montero, or Land Cruiser) doesn't have the same load capacity as an 80 series Land Cruiser or something else with a fully welded roof.
On top of all that, driving around with a higher centre of gravity would be the bit that puts me off anyway.
I think I would invest in a dual position cargo barrier before I got the roof rack. We went camping in January this year for 10 days. After removing the third row seats, the back of the Monterey swallowed all gear for two adults and two kids. It was all held in place by six load straps and a cargo net. However the barrier would make things a lot safer.
I am not sure if the mounting and base feet design lend that kind of rack to supporting more weight? That might be an advantage to the thule/yakima style over mounting to the rain gutters.
Thank you for finding all the roof rack cracking information. I put a canoe or two up there and sometimes bikes, I don't do washboard roads with heavy roof rack loads, so I don't expect cracking.
-mike
I have a 1998 Isuzu Rodeo V6 (S model with around 44000 miles now). I have noted for the last 1 year that when I apply brakes on hitting a pothole or suddenly, the SUV doesnot stop abruptly (like my other car with out anti-lock brakes). It will still go about 10 feet before it stops. Is it a feature of the anti-lock brakes or is it a problem with ISUZU Rodeo? I read some problem with Rodeo's brakes a long time ago in one of these forums. The problem is you cannot rely on the SUV in bumber-to-bumber traffic, any more because it needs more distsnce to stop than my car.
Can anyone help me with an answer. I donot want to visit the dealer and pay 300$ just to hear that there is no problem. Do you think, it is time to get brake readjusted or brake pads replaced? ( I apologize for being dump on the questions, but I am one of those souls who know only to fill gas and check air pressure)
Please reply ..(Rodeo 98 owners or any one..)
I know some guys with subarus who have the same problem. They hit some potholes/washboards @ speed and hit the brakes, and the ABS engages unlocking the wheels that have locked up as they bounce out of the holes. Tires and suspension upgrades fixed that for them as well.
-mike
Jim
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1829925815
Tetonman
Bsmart1, glad you are OK too. No doubt the Trooper overall is a stout vehicle.
50mph is one hell of a hit! To drive away from it is amazing. Definitely an advantage of having a separate chassis. I doubt a monocoque like Montero could do the same.
The golden rule with ABS is to hit the brake pedal hard in emergency situations, and keep the pressure on until you come to a stop. Don't try and modulate the pedal as you would in a non-ABS vehicle.
If it is still worrying you, there are other options you can try later on when things come up for replacement or machining. Items like slotted disc rotors can help reduce your braking distance. You can check out an example of these on www.dba.com.au.
However, you mention that it has started occuring in the last year or so. It maybe related to your shocks wearing out and hence the tyres aren't in contact with road as much as they should be. Bounce each corner of your car by hand, and if it doesn't come to rest within one rebound they may need replacing. You also point out that it tends to occur on potholes, etc. For me, that all points to shock absorber wear.
Hope that helps.
-mike
TOD is only available for AT equipped cars.
-mike
Gao16- More congrats...This site & Town Hall were the reasons I bought my '01 LS in March of '01. I too was leaning towards domestics until I saw the service horror stories posted.
20K miles later, & couldn't be happier. Happy Troopin'!
Apparently Holden doesn't want to turn the triplets into quadruplets. Or it can't because there is no RHD variant yet. I hope it's the former!
Thanks
inform_me
Currently I drive a '99 S with a 5-speed. This trooper is a daily commuter and a weekend trail-rider. I would appreciate any input or advice on the following:
Would I be better off doing a complete 2" lift kit vs. rear spring replacement and cranked torsion bars?
What is a good tire size to combine with this lift?
Should I stick with the current factory 5 spoke wheels or consider upgrading them as well.
Keeping in mind that this is a daily driver, how much will a 2" lift effect on-road manners.
I would love to hear examples of tire size & lift heights that members feel offer the best of both worlds.
94 troopers. Apparently, they have stoppped 'mass publishing' these manuals, but for $150 they'd print a special order manual. Although, Helm Inc does stock a manual for 95 troopers.
My question: What are all changes between 94-95 on the Trooper LS 3.2L.
Advanced thanks...........pschnalz
-mike
-mike
The pics look to be in a body-shop. If it was rear-ended, likely the doors were replaced and the TOD sticker is from the donor vehicle with TOD. The seller may not be aware of that or can be trying to slip something by. One might email the seller for more info.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1829925815
The pedigree looks off. Sounds like a case of buyer beware. Don't forget, 5 speeds have far lower resale values vs. automatics in any given vehicle. There may be a $1,000+ difference even in resale values.
Carfax.com reveals some info, what I don't know:
VIN: JACDJ58X1X7910673
Year/Make/Model: 1999 ISUZU TROOPER S
Body Style: 4 Dr. Wagon/Sport Utility
Engine Type: 3.5L V6 DFI DOHC
Manufactured In: JAPAN
Search Results: 5 records found in our database
IMPORTANT! The 5 records on this 1999 ISUZU TROOPER S will confirm a clean history or uncover potential problems. Find out by ordering the complete CARFAX Vehicle History Report.
Jim
-mike
Jim
-mike
Jim
Thanks much for the kind offer to check out that Trooper from Ebay, but I'm going to pass on that one.
Changing the subject, I'd like to expand on texasappraiser's question about auto vs manual transmission. I'd be interested to hear general opinions on which transmission you would prefer in a 98+ trooper and why?
Thanks!
So the manual isn't faster. I doubt if a mileage difference would be noticeable on these rigs. The only area that a manual has left to excel in is engine brake, which not many people use/need in the first place. A manual is probably better for descending steep hills, but an auto is better for ascending steep hills. The automatic's reverse gear is a little too high for my taste. I wish it were lower, but if I really need it to be lower, I just throw it into low range. The auto is pretty much bullet proof, and I presume the manual is the same.
The thing about the newer automatic trannys is there is no dip stick. Even when they did have dip sticks, you had to drive the Trooper around in order to check it as per the manual. I say go for the auto.
For me, TOD is an important factor and that would probably cement the choice for me.
Longer term, I don't want to have clutch replacement hassles. Especially if transfer case needs removing. Generally speaking, when properly maintained, an auto should last just as well as a manual tranny.
Either they get a different manual tranny or ratios (unlikely), or the acceleration figures were taken during a pleasant sunday afternoon drive!
-mike
I went to look at a 2001 Trooper S which is being sold by a private owner with about 25,000 miles on it. It's an auto/TOD. The vehicle is nearly immaculate but he had advertised it as an LS which is what he was apparently told it was when he bought it last fall from a dealer. I believe it was an honest mistake and that this guy, who seems honest and straightforward, isn't very familiar with Troopers. His other vehicles are a Dodge Grand Caravan and a 7-series BMW. The front alignment is off slightly (which he's having fixed this week) and the TOD system indicator would only flash when it was "engaged" (and the front wheels didn't engage). (Any guesses as to why?) He's having that repaired this week also. So, the car has about 25,000 miles basic warranty left and is in excellent shape other than the TOD malfunction and the slight front end misalignment. Tires look good but do I recall correctly that a slight difference in the tire diameters can interfere with TOD? These tires are all same model and same size and seemed to have about the same wear. Maybe not... He was asking $15,800 and I offered $15,000 which I think he's going to accept. What do you think? Having a sunroof put in is going to cost me an additional $1000 or so but it is a 2001...Has anyone on the list put an aftermarket sunroof on a Trooper? Any tips? To my knowledge, Webasto-Hollandia is better made than ASC? Is there any roof interference from a structural beam? Is the stock (LS, etc.) roof reinforced when the OEM sunroof is put in?
Sean
Seanreid - You may indeed have found a great deal, BUT a few red flags go up in my head. Weird dash lights and alignment issue at only 25k COULD mean front end damage that's (almost) been repaired. The LS/S mixup, I don't buy it, unless he's just going by what a son or daughter told him the specs were. A guy who owns a 7 series BMW usually knows these things. He also has a strange mix of cars, IMHO. Could he be a guy who repairs damaged cars himself? I guess paperwork could answer a lot of these questions, but don't give in to charisma. Those Carfax accounts seem to be valuable. Try a limited search on that.
Jim
Thanks for the reply. The alignment issue is minor, I noticed it because of a slightly uneven wear pattern on the front tires but 25,000 miles of New England roads can throw off the alignment on anything. It just barely pulls to the right. I'm planning to run a CarFax but I'll bet it comes up clean.
The seller isn't so much charismatic as meticulous, it would seem. The interior is perfect and the exterior is almost perfect. I viewed the car at his fairly luxurious home and I think he's just a Yuppy, nothing worse. I would be shocked if he had the mechanical skills necessary to rebuild cars. As far as the mix of cars, the minivan is apparently his wife's daily driver, the bimmer is his pride and joy and the Trooper was bought as a winter car. That all makes sense to me. The TOD problem is wierd though. As for his honesty regarding mixing up S and LS - hard to say. But the price is fair for an S in good shape. Thanks again for replying. Given that the truck checks out, does the price sound good to you?
Sean
Jim
S
Try shifting the H-4L lever into 4L and back to H again, while in Park or Neutral of course. It may not be sitting in H properly.
I've seen that once with mine, and was surprised that the car was able to move in this state. The indicators flashed and the word AUTO wouldn't illuminate, however I still had 2WD and was able to move normally.
As for alignment ... it doesn't seem to be an unusual story. Should be easily fixed.