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Isuzu Trooper

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  • cwmosercwmoser Member Posts: 227
    This is for those of you here who have experienced driving a right-hand drive vehicle - I'm curious, is the break and gas pedals swapped too? How about the controls on the steering column?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    My guess is that it gets boiled off, because when I changed to synthetic (that has a higher boiling point) it drastically reduced the amount of oil consumed.

    I'm not to concerned cause my truck should go 200K w/o problems and if I need to put in oil ever 2-3K thats ok with me.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Ditto what sawas-e said about taking it back to the shop that just did the work.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yep take it back to them. My guess is that they didn't fill it enough or left the drain plug loose.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Oil can also blow past the rings and burn off with the gas. High compression engines are prone to that. I believe the honda s2000 burns a considerable amount of oil, so it is not uncommon in "good" motors.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'm not sure it's that on the ISuzus, cause then if you used synthetics it should blow even more past them. Just a theory though.

    -mike
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Pedals - Throttle on the right, brake on the middle, clutch and footrest on the left.

    Steering Column controls - Usually turn indicators on the right of the column, wiper controls on the left, but not always. Most European imports, except for those from the UK, have the turn indicators still on the left of the column and the wiper control on the right. This includes Holden's Astra and Barina which come from Belgium.

    Also, years ago Volvo used to bring their cars into Australia with the hood release still on the left hand side.

    I was in Europe 9 years ago and did some driving there. I had a hell of a time for the first hour or so getting used to a LHD. Turning into the wrong side of the road, opening windows instead of changing gears, wipers instead of turn indicators.

    FUN!
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Actually, I've read about the more high tech unleaded engines doing this, but I'm a bit sketchy on the reasoning for it. Something to do with the absence of lead in fuel reducing the available lubrication in the head and combustion chamber.

    If that's the case, then why don't so many older unleaded engines exhibit the same behaviour?

    An example...Holden has been using the Buick 3.8 V6 in Commodores since about 1987. Until 1995, no problems. In 1995 they released the Ecotec version of this motor which has a higher power output and on average consumes 1 litre every 10,000km. It's the same block as the previous one, so why the difference? And if it is something that is allegedly required by design, then why don't all the same engines exhibit the same behaviour?

    I have been lucky. My Monterey doesn't burn oil, and my previous '95 Ecotec engined Commodore also didn't burn oil.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    Subaru sells right hand drive vehicles in the USA for people that deliver mail. Maybe Holden could sell the 2006 Trooper here in the USA even if they don't have a left drive model.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    SOA doesn't sell those anymore and when they did it was a real stripped down version costing about $16K roughly, I doubt it would be worth the Importation cost to sell the Trooper LHD here. The Legacy is made in IN so there was no import tax.

    -mike
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    We don't even know if what they have planned will be any good. On top of that, I doubt Detroit or the UAW will allow them.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    1. From what I've heard/read, I thought oil consumption on the 3.2L and 3.5L Troopers was the rule, not the exception. paisan, what makes you think it's as low as 25%.

    2. Most of the 3.2/3.5L Troopers I've heard of using oil seem to do so from very early on. I.e., the problem hasn't gotten worse with age. To me, that's of less concern than a vehicle that doesn't consume oil until 50k and all of a sudden starts consuming oil.

    3. I never noticed a difference in consumption on our 98 Trooper. In this order, it has had conventional (petrol-based) oil, synthetic blend, synthetic and conventional blended by me, full synthetic, and now conventional again. It uses a quart every 2,000 miles or so. It's inconvenient to need to add oil often, but it doesn't bother me much. Actually, it serves as a good reminder of the importance to check the oil, because you never know when it will be down a half quart.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Cause I know about 100+ 3.2 and 3.5 owners over on the 4x4wire and only 20-25 of them experience oil consumption problems. Not a big sampling, but as big as I can get firsthand knowledge of.

    -mike
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    Hmmm. That makes me more curious as to why some 3.2L or 3.5L Trooper engines consume oil and some do not. I certainly have done nothing wrong with the 3.2L I owned (bought used at 27k miles) and our current 3.5L Troop (bought used at 7k).

    I wonder how many people don't actually keep very close track of the oil consumption? I'm not saying that would account for very many of the 75% who claim no consumption, but maybe a few.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    But I wouldn't worry about it. Could be anything that causes it during manufacturing. My 3.2 SOHC in my '97 Rodeo went 120K miles doing dino every 7500k miles and got beat to hell, never burned a drop and the Trooper I drive slightly less agressive, put in Synthetic and change it ever 5K and it consumes it.

    -mike
  • flyinlowflyinlow Member Posts: 62
    This may be trivia to most of you, but it applies to 2002 LS Troops and maybe others: apparently, Isuzu stopped putting in the rear footrests but forgot to remove it from the ads and window stickers. Many posts ago I asked on this board if the plastic trim at the bottom rear of the front seats was what they meant by 'foot rests', because it seemed like another case of hyping useless 'features'.

    Imagine my surprise when we got a very nice letter from American Isuzu recently advising us of their mistake and offering to compensate us. Upon calling the 800 number listed, we were given the option of either a bra or wind deflector (OEM accessory). We had no desire for either and asked for the ski rack, and the phone rep agreed. It hasn't arrived yet, and it may not bolt right to our Overlander rack, but it will sure be more useful than the footrests would have been!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Yeah they are pretty cheesy IMHO.

    My guess is they ran out of them! Remember 2002 is the catch-all year for parts on the Trooper. Good find on the ski rack though!

    -mike
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Europe, Asia and Australia/NZ are still getting Troopers/Bighorns/Jackaroos for another year after North America stops. Footrests and all!
  • freerlovefreerlove Member Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Trooper (3.5L I believe). My wife was driving home last week, when the car lost power, made a "loud knocking" noise as she pulled over on the freeway. 60 Minutes later, I had the car towed to the dealership. The Dealership told me, there was "No-Oil" in the car, there was signs of metal in the oil and the whole engine would have to be replaced!!

    How can that be?? My last oil change was 6000 miles ago, and "the manual" states 7500 miles between oil changes!! The answer I got from the Dealership was, there is no signs of leakage, consumption or burning from the engine. So that meant the Oil Changing place did not put "enough" oil in the car... So, of course, it's not covered under my warranty!!

    I then had the car towed back to the oil changing place. The manager said he would "without a doubt" find the problem!! Well,,,, He didn't.

    He put 4 quarts of oil into the car before it registered on the dipstick, meaning the car had "at least 1 quart of oil in it"!! There were also no signs of metal in the engine (to me). 2 sparks were pulled with no signs of burning. The car was then started and sounded fine.

    Neither place was able to tell me where the oil went. Isuzu says it was my responsibility to check the oil when it left the shop, as well as, every other fuel stop. NO ONE DOES THIS!!...At least No One I know, does this. The oil changing place says they put in 5 quarts.

    Who is responsible...

    1. Isuzu Dealership,
    2. Oil changing place
    3. Me!!

    Does anyone have a similar situation?? Does anyone have any ideas of what damage could have been done. If I replace the barrings (if that is the problem) how can I be sure any metal in the oil will not cause the problem again (possible spun barring(s))?? Can I get away with changing my oil every 1000 miles?? Please make suggestions!! Here or at jeff.freer@verizon.net. Thanks in advance for taking the time to read my story.

    And where did my oil go??
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    You didn't check your oil for 6K miles and readily admitted this to the dealer?

    No offense but if I were Isuzu I'd blame it on you too. If you read the manual it clearly states that consumption of 1Q every ~1000 miles is possible, which means that I check every ~1000 miles or so, not ever other fuel up but ever 3rd one. Also if you read the manual the 7500 mile oil changes are the min. and only under non severe conditions. Any kind of summer driving would fall under severe conditions and my guess is that 80% of drivers fall under severe conditions during their normal driving habits.

    Have to go with the dealer on this one sorry.

    -mike
  • cmunizcmuniz Member Posts: 604
    Unless you can prove that the car had a defect or that the oil change place did something wrong, I agree with Paisan that you will be stuck with the blame and the problem. My guess is that the oil filter may have been left loose and leaked oil under the pressure of a running engine or that they didn't put the right amount of oil in it in the first place. It is a good idea to check the engine oil periodically and especially after an oil change to make sure they filled it properly. I also check to make sure they changed the filter and there are no leaks even though I've gone to the same place for years and trust them - anybody can make a mistake.

    The big problem is what to do now. I would start by having the oil tested by a lab to see what they find in it. That would be the least costly solution to start. If they find a lot of metal, then the engine may need some work or at minimum an inspection to satisfy yourself that it is ok. If they don't find a high amount of metal, you may have caught the problem in time to prevent serious damage. There is an owner that goes by the name of "bobtheoilguy" that has posted extensively on other forums and who is an expert on motor oil and engine wear and very helpful. I suggest you try to contact him for his opinion.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Have the oil pan removed and checked...You can run a couple of oil changes over the next 1000 miles...to sort of "flush" any debris out...and then pretend like it never happened...I would guess you have at least an 85% chance if not better that you will not see a problem related to this while you own the truck.
  • tek182tek182 Member Posts: 6
    I had posted something simelar to freerlove a little while ago. What happened to my 3.5 was that I started hearing a rattle coming from the engine (sort of a metal on metal sound). I took the truck to the dealership and they checked it out and told me the rattle was the muffler shield. Well it got alot worse and ended up being a slipped bearing. The dealership requested all my service records, which I had faxed to them from various locations. They are now replacing the engine. Here is my problem: They are only replacing the block, not the heads. They said they would check the heads before putting them on, but this still worries me. Should I be worried or should I just be happy with the new block, shaft, pistons, rings, etc.??? Thanks for info.
  • bstone3bstone3 Member Posts: 97
    If you can't get the dealership or the oil company to replace the engine - and metal is (was) evident in the oil pan - then fill it up with the cheap stuff (oil) pick out a new automobile - best time to by is now - and trade it off - I would not want to mess with an engine that was run try to the point of actually stopping as on the freeway. Good Luck - and I always check my oil - especially after leaving the oil change facilities - because - tto much oil, not enough oil or lately as just happened to me they left off the filler cap - ooh waht a mess - I now and will forever do it myself.

    By the way the local lawn cuttin contractor at our office building decised to snag my bug deflector with the back pack leaf blower strap and snap it in two. They were good about it and gave me a check to replace it - so Isuzu gave me a new one in the box and I installed it - but it is different than the original Isuzu deflector - looks the same on the outside but does bolt to a couple of different points on under the hood - but the most noticeable thing is that this deflector is made of thinner plastic - while driving at interstate speeds it bends back almost to the hood - much flimsier feeling too - oh well - that may explain some posts earlier about deflectors vibrating after six months - the original one was built like a vault. 28,500 miles on 01 LS TOD - no problems - nice rig.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I had my engine rebuilt after swamping it. They put in a "short block"...just the lower half. I don't burn any oil...I didn't before though. Runs great. Only engine issue since the rebuild was running at slightly high temperatures during 95 degree, 95% humidity day through the mountains. I don't think this was related.

    I don't think just changing the block as opposed to the whole engine will be detrimental. If they are paying for it, be happy.
  • wlbrown9wlbrown9 Member Posts: 867
    I have a 2000 Trooper LS. Use 10w30 dino oil. Usually change at between 3000 -4000 miles. Just checked it this past weekend before making a short trip since it has been 3500 miles since the last change. Oil is still clean and almost to the top/full mark. So, mine is one of the 'does not burn a enough to worry about'. I still try to check it between changes just in case something happens to make it start using...a malfunction PCV valve, loose filter, broken ring, any number of things could happen and a sudden drop in oil level might warn the owner in time to prevent permanent or additional damage.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Like the thread has been discussing, many Isuzus go through oil. As long as the lost oil is replaced in a timely manner these engines seem to run almost forever.
    In your case, in spite of the oil shop's statement, you were down to LESS than one qt. of oil when the car stopped. If you had a qt. of oil in there the dipstick would have registered almost full when the 4 qts were added.
    No engine can run in anywhere near that condition for any extended period of time without doing some serious damage. Losing power and knocking are clear signs of a major problem.
    As to what to do now, you could try to stick the oil change place with the bill. You do after all have the dealer and oil place both saying there is no sign of an oil loss. Thus, one obvious conclusion is that oil must have therefore been underfilled when it left the oil change place. The other less obvious cause is that some of these engines just burn oil. You should have known this and checked your oil levels per the book. No doubt the lawyer for the oil place will argue this. Which story a judge will believe I guess is the question.
    My guess is that major damage has already been done. The only cure is to tear the engine down and replace all the improperly lubed items. It would probably be just as cheap to get a rebuilt engine. That being the case, why not just fill it back with oil, cross your fingers, and run it untill it dies and do the replace/rebuild then?
    Just my $.02, YMMV.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd try to fight the Lube place. If pushed hard enough they will likely payup on the engine rebuild.

    -mike
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    I never had footrests in my 2K "S".
    New shocks later today - Monroe Reflex - details to follow.....
    Hey paisan! race you to 200K! I'm just about to 70K in about 25 months of ownership.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Beer is kicking my butt. I'm up to 25 months as well and only have a measly 42K miles! I picked mine up June 10, 2000. How bout you?

    -mike
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    on June 30th, 2K in Toms River, NJ.
    I still have original fuel filter to change out and I'm way over due on drive shaft lube. Last week I just had the original coolant flushed and filled and due to recent heat I had my MB1 oil change done a little early @ 8k instead of my usual 10K. I had them check the brakes during tire rotation and the tech I can wait another 10k before swapping out pads! That will be almost 80k on originals! I have St. Charles OEM pads ready to go when they do it. I am hoping for 200K, Good Lord willin'. This board helps me out a great deal. Cheers to all!
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I did my pads at 40K and swapped the fluids int he diffys. Will be doing the ATF soon.

    Other than that all is running well.

    -mike
  • leedavidyoungleedavidyoung Member Posts: 102
    Stopped by Gwinnett Mall dealership today to look at remaining 2002 Troopers. 25 new Troopers in every color. Mostly S and LS. Only one 4X4 on the lot. 4K cash back with super low APR. I have a '99 in great condition but it sure is tempting.

    I would love to keep my '99 and buy the new Trooper, storing it away like a fine bottle of wine. My fianc'ee fails to understand this concept and questions my mental well-being. I think she's jealous of the Trooper. I'm just curious if anyone else is having similar thoughts?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd do just that. In 5-10 years crack that bottle of wine open and drive that puppy! :)

    -mike
  • beer47beer47 Member Posts: 185
    New Monroe Reflex ride terrific. Feels like a new truck. Seemed to gained a slight annoying squeak somewhere in the front. Something tightened down a wee bit too much? A little WD40 maybe will correct. My stock shocks were completely shot/useless. My springs were doing all the work. It turns out that Monroe makes Rancho shocks also.. Going out for a drive!! See Y'all
  • tle_portaltle_portal Member Posts: 8
    after selling my '00 Acura TL. It's been great so far, but after reading about the oil consumption, I will be perusing the manual more closely. Any other major items I should know about?

    I miss the gas mileage, already, as I am moving from 22 or so to 16MPG so far. Any advantages to using Plus or Premium gas?

    BTW, I paid $8K off sticker, so I paid $29,500 or so with the towing hitch.

    Thanks and looking forward to adding some experiences.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Nothing else notable to watch out for, but if I think of anything I'll let you know. Check out http://isuzu-suvs.com for tons of info!


    -mike

  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    September 21st.


    http://isuzu-suvs.com/events


    -mike

  • tkevinblanctkevinblanc Member Posts: 356
    My 98 burns about a quart every 3K of Mobil 1.

    A mechanic once told me that the more frequently you check, the less oil it will burn. He meant that a vehicle may take 2K to burn the first quart, but then will burn the second in 1.5K. The third will go in 1K (this might be and exaggeration). When there is less oil it gets hotter and burns more quickly.

    I know this was true with my near-end-of-life Chrysler minivan. It burned a quart in the first thousand. The second one went between 500 and 750.
  • bstone3bstone3 Member Posts: 97
    1/2 qrt per 5000 mi using Mobil 1 with 26,000 miles.

    So tell me Paisan how do you rate the new sway bars - with the EMU springs, tires, shocks, polyurethane bushings, sway bars and bigger tires how would you rate each of these changes for value added. You basically are running on a whole new under carriage.

    To me the polyurethane bushing were the biggest surprise for the improvement vs cost - the only other change I have made is the gas shocks - which also helped. My impression is that stiffer springs and thicker sway bar would help tremendously.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I have upgraded Torsion Bars.

    They made a HUGE difference. Basically eliminated most of the body-roll and nose-dive bounce. I used to run the front ranchos on 4 to compensate for the body roll and nose dive. Now I can crank em back to 2 for normal driving. I run at 2 Front/3 Rear and it's good.

    I think that for the $/value I'd do the following:

    Poly Sway Bar Bushings
    Tires (when you need to replace the stockers, upgrade to bigger ones)
    Springs and shocks (installation of them at the same time is cheaper)
    Torsion Bars (relatively easy to do at home)

    Items I still plan to do?
    1" Poly spacers for the rear @ $90
    Possibly putting in VX sway bars (thicker sway bars, same as the "upgraded" sway bars sold by Calmini for the Trooper, probably will order from St. Charles)
    Tires- when these tires wear out I'll probably go up to 285-75-16 Yokohama Geolander AT II+

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    HEY tek182, I want to hear more about your engine problem. WHat year is your Trooper? Was it the #1 cylinder rod bearing that went out?

    I have suddenly been hearing about a problem with 99 3.5L engines on both Troopers and Vehicrosses, and am trying to get an idea of how many people are having this problem. A guy at 4x4 Wire just had his 99 engine go out too.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    He's a character. My guess is that he did something when trying out mods that messed up his car. Seems odd that his Tranny, TOD and Engine all blew up in a week. I'm sure there is some stuff we aren't hearing about his problem.

    -mike
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    Yeah, who knows what he was doing to it, but he isn't the only one that this has happened to. Plus, if Sam J. (an Isuzu master mechanic) knows about the 1999 3.5L problems, it has to be more than just a couple of isolated incidences.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I'd trust Sam J's word, he's a good guy.

    We'll see how it pans out.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    What problems are you hearing about?
  • sdc2sdc2 Member Posts: 780
    I am still trying to flesh out the facts vs. rumour of this, but there appears to have been a rash of #1 cylinder piston rod bearings going out (this is a bad thing) on 99 3.5L engines.

    IF this proves to be true, among other things, I would like to know:

    - Is this limited to 99s, or is it simply a matter of mileage that newer engines haven't reached yet?

    - If it is limited to 99s, what was changed for 00? And is there a cutoff in 99 models when this change may have been implemented?

    - Is there anything that can be done about prevention for us 99 owners? (synthetic oil?)

    - Is there or will there be a TSB on this problem, and will Isuzu warranty this particular problem beyond the warranty (50K miles for a 99)?
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I can tell you my 99 had a problem swallowing a gallon of swamp water, which caused some piston rod problems... :-)

    Seriously though, I imagine it wouldn't only effect 99's, but any of the 98 and up 3.5L's.
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    I wouldn't panic just yet.
    FWIW, I have tried to read all the posts on this new topic. Here are ALL THE PROBLEMS - So far Moody's died although I couldn't find the post which said cylinder #1 was to blame. Tek182 on this board had a bearing problem but who knows which cylinder. On the Vx board Mtnhipi had a #1 problem. Joe Fargo had the "exact same thing" on a used vehicle although he never in fact stated which cylinder caused his problem and per the dealer "it was out of oil". Now Sam is quoted by someone as saying this is "seen mostly 1999 3.5L engines with problems (#1 cyl)".
    I also sort of remember Viktoria? occassionally reporting in with serious problems, including the engine. However, my sense was that her used vehicle had been flooded somewhere in its life. Similarly we have now have a person reporting on this board 1 qt or less engine oil for who knows how many miles and yet their engine still at least turns over. The point being that engines die for all sorts of reasons and that this cylinder #1 issue is still in the MAYBE mode, not a proven factory problem.
    For the record, our 1999 has been problem free, at least so far.
  • bluedevilsbluedevils Member Posts: 2,554
    I haven't followed the 4x4 Wire discussions, but if there is indeed a problem with this on the 1999 3.5L Troopers, it would seem logical/likely that said problem would also exist on the 1998 Troopers. As a '98 owner, that makes me a little nervous.
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