Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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IIRC, per the manual there are numerous precautions to do this job properly. For example: pulling the ABS fuse, having the vehicle running, doing the wheels in the proper sequence, etc. I think using a vacuum device is also a big no-no on ABS equipped vehicles. I am presently at a loss to remember why unless it has something to do with the fuse being left in and a vacuum device activates the ABS and fluid sprays everywhere.
Taking off the wheels is also not necessary. The point being $85 seems pricey to me for the amount of work involved. No doubt though it is cheap insurance and money well spent if the alternative is a DIYer getting in over their head. I suspect any brake shop would do it for under 1/2 that figure if you catch them when they aren't too busy.
What has confused me is a couple shops, including my local Midas, telling me they don't do brake fluid bleeds/flushes because they a) don't have the right equipment and b) feel it isn't really necessary. This is not in line with what I've heard from various savvy consumers.
-Ryan
The shops SHOULD know how to properly bleed each vehicle. Then again every shop should know how to properly do an oil change but they don't always do even this simple job right.
It could also be that some steps are overkill. No guarantee here, just speculating that for example the aformentioned pull the ABS fuse could only be necessary if the line is power bled and/or the vehicle actually starts to move triggering the ABS into action and likely running over the poor brake bleeder).
FWIW, I turkey baster out most of the brake reservoir (being careful not to introduce air into the lines) and refill with new fluid every 3rd oil change. While the starting brake fluid looks good it is definitely darker than the new stuff out of the bottle. Then about every 8th oil change I bleed each wheel untill the fluid comes out clean. The very first fluid at each wheel is quite a bit darker than new. Then it quickly changes to the slightly darker color and finally new fluid. To me this is just cheap insurance costing some time and a couple of bucks in fluid. No doubt some can claim this is overkill especially if you have to pay someone $85 to do the work.
The 1999 model years have an intake manifold gasket issue. Not a big deal, but could be $100-$120 repair down the line for one that hasn't had it replaced.
4wd:
Manuals have 4wd high - no on pavement usage, but may have advantages offroad depending on what you are looking for.
Maintenance records are important, but if the seller can demonstrate proper maintenance, I'd go for it. $6,000 for a 99 Trooper sounds like a very good price, even with 100k miles.
It got to the point where he had no confidence in taking it anywhere. Australia has no laws on lemons other than the manufacturer/dealer are obliged to rectify all problems under minimum statutory warranty terms. After 2 years of problems and continuous rectifications, the owner filed a law suit on the dealer and Mitsubishi Australia. Mitsubishi decided to settle out of court and refunded him the full 2000 purchase price that he spent on the vehicle.
He now owns a 3.0L diesel dual cab Holden Rodeo ("real" Isuzu Pickup) and loves it! He also managed to pocket $15000 AUS in the difference in cost between the Pajero Exceed and the Rodeo. Gotta be happy with that.
Jim
- A Hitch
- Trailer long enough for a 16' car
- How to secure the car on the trailer
- Any other "special" preparations?
Thanks
Sam
1. Unless the car to be towed doesn't roll, I recommend that you use a towing dolly as opposed to a trailer. They are much lighter than a full-size trailer. The dolly has straps that clamp the tires into a well on the dolly. Very easy to set up.
2. I have the factory hitch installed, but others here on this forum have used the Hidden Hitch with much success. Your preference on that.
3. Make sure that you have fresh fluids and that they are topped off, especially the oil. Your Trooper may burn more oil than normal when towing.
4. If you find that the transmission is not locking the torque converter in top gear, use 3rd gear. The transmission will get hot if the TC is not locking. Thankfully, the Trooper transmission also locks the TC in 3rd gear. You may also want to press the "power" button so that the transmission shifts more aggresively.
5. Inflate your rear tires to the maximum tire pressure recommended by the manufacturer.
Enjoy the tow. I think you will find it to be easier than expected.
Tom
Thanks.
We have the booster style seat in the middle as our four year old can easily climb in and then click himself in across the chest restraint (we buckle him in). His chair is anchored using the middle seat belt and the anchor clip on his car seat attached to the anchor on the back of the seat. It works fine and there is no way his seat is coming loose. I've rocked and pulled it to make sure the straps stay secure and there was no play.
One of the main reasons we love our Trooper is because it fits three car seats safely...
There has been a few mentions of torque converter lockup in 3rd gear and top. How can you tell if the torque converter has not locked?
Also, my serpentine belt is wearing down (original belt at 49K miles). How many miles do you typically get out of this belt?
Thanks!
When you are driving, watch the tach. You will know the torque converter has locked because the revs will drop slightly immediately after the transmission has shifted into top gear. Count the three shifts by watching the tach drop. After the third shift (the vehicle is now in fourth gear), you will observe the tach drop slightly, as if it has shifted. If you apply a little throttle pressure you can also watch it unlock--the revs will rise slightly but the vehicle is still in fourth gear.
You can also watch it lock in third gear. Drive up an incline and start applying throttle until the transmission downshifts into third. Maintain that pressure (or add a little more thottle) and you can watch the TC lock while the transmission is still in third. Eventually, it will shift into fourth and relock. Obviously, you can also just manually shift into third by moving the shifter into the "3" detent and watching the tach in the manner I described above.
Watching this happen is hypnotizing. Drive carefully while you are doing this. I still do it just because the engineering amazes me.
Tom
Then again, maybe I don't know what's the difference between a Torque Converter and a plain old Automatic Transmission.
Go for the fluid changes, and try using "d" if you notice a lot of jumping around of gears drop it to "3"
-mike
Replacement is easy - I am going to put a new one on and keep the old one in the back as a spare.
If you don't have them there, you might be able to have anchors installed in the floor of your Trooper by the metal clips for the cargo net.
Otherwise, there is a figure 8 type of brace that comes with most car seats that will restrict the seat belt from moving. Brace looks something like this: [=] You loop the belt and slack through the brace and pull hard to tighten it.
My Troop is consuming a lot of oil and, based on a recommendation on one of the other Town Hall forums, before I replace the plugs I want to make sure the other stuff - wires/coil packs/etc. - is in okay shape.
An excellent design IMO, because the high-voltage portion of the system is not exposed to moisture and the elements that can cause the spark to jump and misfire.
Of all the problems I have had with vehicles over the years, I bet half were due to problems with plug wires and distributor caps, especially in the winter around here.
Based on what you said, is it accurate to say this motor has no distributor? Sorry to ask such a stupid question.
This system works well, but it also introduces an inefficiency into the system because this fluid transfer always results in some slippage. When you are towing a heavy load, this also creates excess heat because the fluid hitting a slow-moving turbine in the torque converter creates heat. If it gets hot enough, it burns the fluid and clutches in the transmission.
To promote efficiency and reduce heat, the transmission permits the torque converter to "lock." This is a direct mechanical coupling between the engine output shaft and the transmission, bypassing the function of the torque converter. Because there is no slippage, there is no excess heat being generated in the transmission. Thus, torque converter lock is the best scenario for towing and highway driving because it is the most efficient and also it is easy on the guts of the transmission.
Gear changes in the transmission just change gear ratios, but the TC functions the same. When the torque converter locks, you will notice the revs drop slightly because the lock has removed the little bit of slippage in the torque converter.
I hope that helps.
Tom
Next time I get in my Trooper, I'll be looking to note when the Torque Converter locks and watch the RPM drop. Again thanks.
-mike
On the old system, you had a single coil that jumped up the voltage before the distributor sent the high current to each plug.
I have heard it is possible for the coil packs on a 3.5L to go bad, but I doubt it happens very often. It would certainly be worth checking if you had a cylinder mis-firing.
-mike
IIRC, I had my t-belt,tensioner,water pump,drive belt replaced at about 80k;I guess I'll do them again at 180k.
I'm not sure how necessary it is to replace the water pump on our Trooper anytime soon. 98 Troop (3.5L), 75k miles. We plan on keeping this vehicle until it dies, which I expect won't happen until well north of 200k miles.
Analogous to repacking the wheel bearings at the same time as a brake job, it's almost no added expense.
A timing belt is a whole different animal.
I'm wondering if you folks would be kind enough to point out some of the mechanical issues I should look at and/or have addressed with this vintage Trooper.
I'm thinking oil consumption (how do I check for that?), belts, coolant, filters, etc.
I appreciate any contributions.
-mike
Still, any thoughts/suggestions about what to look for on a 4-year-old Trooper with 45K on it?