Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!

Isuzu Trooper

1143144146148149233

Comments

  • sveltaxsveltax Member Posts: 72
    Thanks for posting Sawas_e! I don't think the States would take kindly to importing one of those beasties! I love the stance on those massive tires!
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    good feedback and thoughts on the rear diffy smell. I'll take a look at the weepage issue or the vent leaking. Just might fix that rascal.

    Saw my 97' Troop that was wrecked, looked brand new! I sure thought about buying it back.

    I called my ISUZU dealer yesterday to ask about long term support. He is carrying the Ascender and will continue to carry Rodeo's as they make them. Has no plan to discontine the ISUZU line and will maintain certified technicians for this product line. Whew....I'm glad that is put to rest.

    Anybody know if the Altimeter will read over 9980 elevation? Made a recent trip to Colorado (during the worst snow storm in 100 years) and went up to 13000+ feet, but the altimeter didn't register more than 9980??? Who has the answer to that?

    bsmart
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    The local dealer here had no idea it was going to close. Isuzu came through, bought the franchises back and closed every other one in the area. No warning. So while your dealer may have good intentions, it may also be out of his control.
  • pinoy99pinoy99 Member Posts: 79
    could be the pinion seal going - mine went at 29k after multiple sand excursion - should be warrantied up to 60k on 98&99, maybe be longer on newer models. Could also be that the axle is leaking ever so slightly - check for build up of dirt by the dics brakes especially the inside part(mine did at 59k) and again about 60k later. HTH
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    On a trip to Lake City, 9980 ft. is as high as it would read on my '00.

    My rear pinion diffy front seal started leaving a puddle at 23k - seal was replaced under warranty. The dealer advised that they've had many Troops come in needing a seal replacement. No issues over the last 12k since the repair.
  • ostazostaz Member Posts: 80
    Well troopers, I am again faced with a similar dilemma I was faced with a few months ago. My current truck is a 99 S w/39k miles in near perfect condition in and out with new tires and all fluids changed at 37k. The dealer I bought it from currently has a 99 LS and 99 limited, both with about 50k mile, and appear to be in good condition.

    I Always wanted the LTD, and the $$$ difference in trade is less than $1500, and I can afford it. I am concerned about the unknown and though. What would you do if you were in my place?

    Thanks
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    What is in the limited that you desire so much? Narrowing down your wish list may help make the decision easier. Other than leather seats, is does the limited offer any other items? CD maybe? Does it have the 5 spoke rims? The 99 should have an alloy rim on the spare, does the newer ones you are looking at?

    You could add aftermarket leather and a CD changer for probably less than $1500...just for arguments sake.
  • greenmaxgreenmax Member Posts: 47
    Be careful when buying a Trooper with leather. I've seen several with worn out or cracked leather. It has to be maintained meticulously to be in good shape, and most aren't. I would look for '00-'02 LTD if you want a tan interior, built-in antenna, factory tinted windows, rear cargo mat, grade logic auto and better looking (subjectively) alloy wheels.
  • troop2shostroop2shos Member Posts: 235
    All leather will crack / deteriorate if not properly taken care of regardless of quality. The cleaner you keep the leather, the longer it will last. I personally use Lexol cleaner & conditioner - 2 separate products - don't use the all in one "cleans & conditons" in one bottle solutions.
    The leather in the Troop is of very good quality (much better than most domestic makes, IMO) & should last a long time - if properly taken care of. There is a good article on leather care at dccarcare.com, if interested.
  • bstone3bstone3 Member Posts: 97
    My 2001 LS has dealer installed leather - after 35K miles it looks like new - but I do treat it at least three times a year - but it takes only a few minutes to do all the seats - also I think the limited has a sun roof - which is why we bought the LS (option) standard on Limited. - I don't know if this is true for the 1999's. Personally I would buy the latest Trooper you can find - it will be a long time before you can find such a top quality vehicle with all the bells and whistles for what these things are selling for.
  • shdogrunnershdogrunner Member Posts: 4
    Hi all,

    I'm considering purchasing a 99 Trooper with Performance Package (TOD / sunroof / CD) - exterior condition is very good - interior pretty good with some minor damage in the cargo area. Car had one owner and CARFAX reports no problems. Vehicle has 41,420 miles. Sticker price is $15K which is riduculous; internet price is $13 which I also think is riduculous. I'm not willing to pay over $11,500.

    I'm hesitant to purchase used cars and haven't since my first one out of high school (71' Mercury Capri - need I say more - the shifter actually came off in my hand one time).

    I plan to take it to my mechanic since I know absolutely nothing and have a good amount of confidence in their work and prices.

    Do you think $11,500 would be a fair price. What should I have a mechanic look for? Any concerns / advice regarding this model year?

    Thanks,

    Susan
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    13K isn't bad at all IMHO. That's very low milage and barely broken in on a $30K truck.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Things to check...
    -battery, mine just went
    -exhaust, if it was used for offroad it is possible that something is rusted out (my catalytic converter just went, covered under warranty)
    -intake manifold gasket?-surging idle could be a symptom, common that some 99s need this replaced
    -brakes, they last for a long time on troopers, at 41K it might need them replaced, $500 job.
    -check 4wd operation - alot of people don't ever use it, which could cause some malfunction over time
    -ask about oil consumption, it is common for this motor 3.5L to burn 1 Qt per 1000-1500 miles, it is also common that it burns less, but something to know going into it.
    I can't think of anything else, but anything the first owner can get fixed under warranty would be good for you, since I am not sure what transfers over if anything.
  • mbednorzmbednorz Member Posts: 63
    IMHO $11.5k would be a good price, maybe even $12.5k for a clean, 1-owner LS with performance package and 41k. (I just bought an 01 S 2WD w/ 22k miles for $14.5k)

    sbcooke's list is a good one. I would also plan to replace the shocks, if they haven't been upgraded already (budget around $150-200 for good ones). Lots of good postings on those in this forum.

    Ask for any and all maintenance records that you can get. At 41k you really want to know what's already been done to the car. If the owner doesn't have records, ask if most of the work was done at one particular shop. Almost all shops have computer records on the cars they service regularly, and the owner can request the info. Share that info with your mechanic!

    Good hunting!
  • shdogrunnershdogrunner Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info and advice. I'm going to give it a closer look and take a test drive today. If I still like it, I'll take it to a mechanic later in the week for a check-up.

    Thanks again,
    Susan
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    I would definitely check the brakes. It is a $500 job due to repacking the front hubs/resurfacing the rotors. Not a problem if it needs it, but possibly a good bargaining chip.
  • shdogrunnershdogrunner Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info and advice. I'm going to give it a closer look and take a test drive today. If I still like it, I'll take it to a mechanic later in the week for a check-up.

    Thanks again,
    Susan
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I beg to differ. @ 40K miles you are looking at pads at most which is about a $200 job if you get it done at a shop, <$100 if you do it yourself. Rotors should not need resurfacing at that low milage.

    It is a good bargaining chip to throw in the $500 job though.

    -mike
  • shdogrunnershdogrunner Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the info and advice. I'm going to give it a closer look and take a test drive today. If I still like it, I'll take it to a mechanic later in the week for a check-up.

    Thanks again,
    Susan
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    That was roughly what the cost was to get mine replaced at 31K. And the price I had quoted by several shops...actually about $440. I agree that you can probably just do the pads, however doing it "by the book" includes removing and resurfacing the rotors (and thus a front hub repack).
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Some shops have an on-car lathe and don't have to remove the rotors to resurface them, FWIW.

    -juice
  • raydahsraydahs Member Posts: 449
    #7471 - "my catalytic converter just went, covered under warranty" You mentioned awhile back that your gas mileage was going down, did this help fix it? I noticed a small rattle in that area recently, almost as if the core has cracked or something. I also checked my warranty, it expired at 70k aargh! Thanks in advance.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    In fact the better resurfacing jobs are done by on-car resurfacing of the rotors IMHO. But I never resurface rotors, if i'm gonna go through the hassle of resurfacing, i'll just replace em for ~$35-40/each.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Catalytic converter? It didn't improve with replacement. However it may just be bad for local driving. I am getting about 12 back and forth to work, which is about 4 miles. I got 17 on an extended trip the other day.

    I looked into resurfacing on the truck, those shops were about the same price...they charged for the ability to do it on the vehicle. I was quoted approximately $190 for the rears and about $250 for the fronts at multiple shops, both on the truck and removal...But hey, if people can get it cheaper, I want to know where.
  • wildbucwildbuc Member Posts: 88
    What this all about? Nearly every car I've owned has gone 90K before there is a need to replace pads. My plan now is wait until about 75K and then have the pads replaced and bearings greased. Right or Wrong? By the way, if the 99 Trooper is in good condition, it is a great price at $15K. I honestly wouldn't sell mine for less than 22K.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Depends on your driving conditions. I did my rear rotors and all 4 pads when I hit ~35K miles. I do a lot of towing, a lot of high-speed braking, and a lot of bumper to bumper traffic. If I did mostly highway driving I guess I could go 80K miles on one set.

    -mike
  • jimmyp1jimmyp1 Member Posts: 640
    pulling a 21' boat back this weekend. Gonna put the Trooper to good use! When I get back, I'll be near 75k miles. So, again, can someone list the things they WOULD have the dealer do, you know the piecemeal stuff as opposed to the full 75k mile tune which seems to be a waste of some money? Timing belt, differential fluids, what else? Bearing repack?

    Jim
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Member Posts: 843
    the rear differential before the long towing trip. I might even change the oil again in Denver to make sure it is very clean for the towing. You will be spending a lot of time high in the RPMs going up and engine braking down the mountains.
    ..
    And check the brakes carefully on the Trooper and the boat. Boat brakes are notorious for not working very well or at all.
    ..
    A new clean air filter or K&N high flow air filter will help your power in the thin mountain air.
    ..
    My Trooper makes the oil get dirty much quicker when towing. The rear differential will get a heavy workout with all the weight of the Trooper and the boat pushing and pulling on it.
    ..
    If you can get it done I think it would be much better to do your entire 75K maintenance or the portions that you will eventually do before the trip, just to make sure the trip is a success.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    I would go for the 99 Performance Package Trooper at that small difference. The S model in 99 didn't have adjustable seats up front. The Perf. Pkg. has electric adjustable, which gives the driver many options on seating position. This makes a lot of difference in driving comfort over long distances. Along with the other benefits mentioned, it would be a 'no brainer' to upgrade. I'm not sure I wouldn't go all the way to an 02' model if its available though. They are selling at ridiculous prices now adays.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Member Posts: 377
    As others have said, I wouldn't sell my 99' Performance Trooper for $11.5K. BUT, if you plan to buy a Trooper, have the idea of keeping it long term. Even at the low prices today, it isn't likely the resale value will ever change. Plan to keep it until its worn out and you will more than get your moneys worth. These are FINE vehicles.
  • savvas_esavvas_e Member Posts: 347
    Mine just came back from a 60000km (approx 35000 mile) service yesterday.

    According to the workshop notes, the brake linings on all 4 wheels are at 50% wear. So it looks like I'll get some good life out of them.

    Incidentally...about a year ago, I posted a message about a hard shifting transmission. Mine started doing that again about two weeks ago. They found a few dirty electrical connections, and a blown brake light bulb. I immediately recalled Paisan having the same problems, but it was due to a blown brake light fuse on his Trooper.

    Just an interesting point to keep in mind.
  • chporterchporter Member Posts: 8
    Anybody seen this one: my 99 Trooper (76K miles) four wheel drive system won't activate on the fly. If I push the 4WD button, stopped or moving, while the engine is running, the TOD display will blink continuously and not come up in 4WD. BUT, if I push the TOD button before I start the engine, it will come up in 4WD and perform perfectly. Sometimes I am able to quickly turn off the motor, hit the TOD button, restart the engine and have it come up in 4WD. Other times that doesn't work and it seems to need to need to be turned off a bit longer to have the engine-off gambit work. Heat related?? I've done the ECU reset attempt by leaving the battery unhooked overnight, btw. Didn't work. Any ideas would be appreciated! Thanks,
    Craig
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Hmmm...a few ideas. You have addressed the electrical problem? You have unhooked the battery? Is there a reset button near the fuse box?

    It could be the actuator, I believe the unit is vacuum activated? Maybe a hose is loose, or the unit itself is going? Perhaps it works on startup because there is a rush of pressure to the actuator?

    Or is it just a display problem? Maybe it is working, but not displaying properly? I think a trip to a dealership is required.
  • chporterchporter Member Posts: 8
    Hmmm, I like the vacuum loss idea. I know it's not the display because on an icy day I was able to establish that the 4WD wasn't coming on just by driving around the neighborhood. Any ideas on TOD reset or fuse-related gremlins?

    Anyone got a schematic or description of the vacuum system re: TOD? My dealership seems like such a ripoff -- I always feel scammed after going in there...I'll take it in eventually but would like to be armed with a few more facts!

    Thanks.

    Craig
  • psucommopsucommo Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2001 Isuzu Trooper with the original tires, size 245/70/16. Its time to replace them and I would like to go up a size to 255/70/16. I've spoken with several tire dealers and the dealership, and I get conflicting responses as to whether this will affect the odometer, ABS, etc. Anyone ever put this size tire on the trooper and have any problems?
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    255/70s won't effect anything too much. I run 265/70s. No problem. The odometer is off by 1.077%, not a big deal, I just have to remember to multiply by that when figuring out mileage. Speed? I have passed by one of those police MPH signs and my speedo was very close...38 mph was slightly under 40. It isn't accurate enough to begin with for me to worry about it. ABS and other functions are pretty much unaffected, you may notice a little powerloss, maybe. You may not be able to notice a difference with 255s.

    Tirerack.com has a lot of good information. As well as some tire websites offer actual tire size specs. A 255/70 from one manufacturer may be the same as a 245/70 from somewhere else.

    Anyway, if you want to upgrade your tires go for it, I have read that 285s can be used on a stock setup. My 265s fit perfectly and don't come close to rubbing even when offroad and the suspension is flexed to its limit.
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    Does 4wd Low still work?

    I read through those 2 other links, and it seems like isolating those vacuum switches could be the culprit?

    I wonder about 4wd low because if this ever occurs offroading, would you still be able to use Low to get home or until you get to a dealership to fix it?
  • chporterchporter Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the links. It's looking more and more like the vacuum problem.

    As to 4WD LO, that will also not engage, which I'd think also points toward a vacuum problem. As soon as it gets a bit warmer here in southeast Michigan I'm going to crawl around under there for a look.

    Craig
  • psucommopsucommo Member Posts: 2
    sbcooke, thanks for the info, its greatly appreciated. I'll definitely check out tirerack's site for further info. Who knows, I might just go up to the 265/70. Thanks again.
  • cbreckcbreck Member Posts: 9
     The saga continues. After the fourth visit to the not so localIsuzu dealership to correct the intermitent irratic idle/stalling problem on my 98 trooper,(they say is attributed to the mass airflow sensor)they first replaced the sensor, then the ECM, then both, at which time I believe they had an inexperienced tech do the work, as the master tech was leaving the dealership, and he had informed me they had not hired a replacment. Upon picking the truck up after the last visit, I noticed the CEL on, the low fuel light flashing, the fuel gage reading incorrectly, and the upshift light flashing(its a 5 speed).
     Now, according to the service manager, "something in the electrical system is shorting out the computer, and they are working with Isuzu to figure out the problem". Meanwhile I'm driving a rental. Its my assumption that the inexperienced tech screwed it up. If anyone has the Helms manual on CD and they wouldnt mind emailing me the section on replacing the ECU, I would be extremely greatful. If its adobe acrobat, or if you could cut and past into a word doc. Please help. I need some amo when I go back to the dealership and threaten legal action.
  • greenmaxgreenmax Member Posts: 47
    If you can't get 4WD Low to engage, the problem is not with vacuum switches as the 4WD gear shifter is mechanically linked to the gear box.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Well i'll report tomorrow, just got back from uwharrie.

    -mike
  • breakorbreakor Member Posts: 398
    Regardless of the transfer case settings, you are not going to get 4wd unless the SOTF unit has good vacuum and working electrical connections.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Problem. I can't get 2wd. TOD and 4-low work fine, but 2wd doesn't want to engage. I'm having it looked at my guess is that it's a vaccum line or electrical cnx on the SOTF unit.

    TOD worked great in uwharrie :) Didn't use 4-low once.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    hmmm...do you think it could just be mud caked up on some of the electrical components? Did you get a wash before you drove back up?
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Been like this since the winter. I had it in TOD all winter and haven't touched it, tried to take it out about a month ago and it won't come out. It's been washed, etc. since the problem started. I have an appt on April 15 to get it looked at along with my rear LSD since the LSD didn't LSD @ uwharrie.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    interesting? How could you tell? My LSD barely LSDs anymore, I did some testing on ice this winter and was unimpressed. I had an old '79 Chevy Caprice Classic with Positraction(i.e. LSD) which worked great, I am surprised at how little the LSD on the trooper does.

    Let us know regarding the LSD, I am interested to read about your results. I have read a lot of things to "it wears out" and "isn't tuned that well to begin with" regarding.
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    I was climbing up the Dickie Bell Trail @ uwharrie and the guys behind me asked if I was open or LSD in the rear, cause I was spinning the lifted wheel...

    So we'll see what they come up with, hopefully good news.

    I also picked up my front LSD unit as well but that won't be going in just yet.

    -mike
  • sbcookesbcooke Member Posts: 2,297
    What brand? What did it cost?
Sign In or Register to comment.