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Comments
Saw my 97' Troop that was wrecked, looked brand new! I sure thought about buying it back.
I called my ISUZU dealer yesterday to ask about long term support. He is carrying the Ascender and will continue to carry Rodeo's as they make them. Has no plan to discontine the ISUZU line and will maintain certified technicians for this product line. Whew....I'm glad that is put to rest.
Anybody know if the Altimeter will read over 9980 elevation? Made a recent trip to Colorado (during the worst snow storm in 100 years) and went up to 13000+ feet, but the altimeter didn't register more than 9980??? Who has the answer to that?
bsmart
My rear pinion diffy front seal started leaving a puddle at 23k - seal was replaced under warranty. The dealer advised that they've had many Troops come in needing a seal replacement. No issues over the last 12k since the repair.
I Always wanted the LTD, and the $$$ difference in trade is less than $1500, and I can afford it. I am concerned about the unknown and though. What would you do if you were in my place?
Thanks
You could add aftermarket leather and a CD changer for probably less than $1500...just for arguments sake.
The leather in the Troop is of very good quality (much better than most domestic makes, IMO) & should last a long time - if properly taken care of. There is a good article on leather care at dccarcare.com, if interested.
I'm considering purchasing a 99 Trooper with Performance Package (TOD / sunroof / CD) - exterior condition is very good - interior pretty good with some minor damage in the cargo area. Car had one owner and CARFAX reports no problems. Vehicle has 41,420 miles. Sticker price is $15K which is riduculous; internet price is $13 which I also think is riduculous. I'm not willing to pay over $11,500.
I'm hesitant to purchase used cars and haven't since my first one out of high school (71' Mercury Capri - need I say more - the shifter actually came off in my hand one time).
I plan to take it to my mechanic since I know absolutely nothing and have a good amount of confidence in their work and prices.
Do you think $11,500 would be a fair price. What should I have a mechanic look for? Any concerns / advice regarding this model year?
Thanks,
Susan
-mike
-battery, mine just went
-exhaust, if it was used for offroad it is possible that something is rusted out (my catalytic converter just went, covered under warranty)
-intake manifold gasket?-surging idle could be a symptom, common that some 99s need this replaced
-brakes, they last for a long time on troopers, at 41K it might need them replaced, $500 job.
-check 4wd operation - alot of people don't ever use it, which could cause some malfunction over time
-ask about oil consumption, it is common for this motor 3.5L to burn 1 Qt per 1000-1500 miles, it is also common that it burns less, but something to know going into it.
I can't think of anything else, but anything the first owner can get fixed under warranty would be good for you, since I am not sure what transfers over if anything.
sbcooke's list is a good one. I would also plan to replace the shocks, if they haven't been upgraded already (budget around $150-200 for good ones). Lots of good postings on those in this forum.
Ask for any and all maintenance records that you can get. At 41k you really want to know what's already been done to the car. If the owner doesn't have records, ask if most of the work was done at one particular shop. Almost all shops have computer records on the cars they service regularly, and the owner can request the info. Share that info with your mechanic!
Good hunting!
Thanks again,
Susan
Thanks again,
Susan
It is a good bargaining chip to throw in the $500 job though.
-mike
Thanks again,
Susan
-juice
-mike
I looked into resurfacing on the truck, those shops were about the same price...they charged for the ability to do it on the vehicle. I was quoted approximately $190 for the rears and about $250 for the fronts at multiple shops, both on the truck and removal...But hey, if people can get it cheaper, I want to know where.
-mike
Jim
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And check the brakes carefully on the Trooper and the boat. Boat brakes are notorious for not working very well or at all.
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A new clean air filter or K&N high flow air filter will help your power in the thin mountain air.
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My Trooper makes the oil get dirty much quicker when towing. The rear differential will get a heavy workout with all the weight of the Trooper and the boat pushing and pulling on it.
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If you can get it done I think it would be much better to do your entire 75K maintenance or the portions that you will eventually do before the trip, just to make sure the trip is a success.
According to the workshop notes, the brake linings on all 4 wheels are at 50% wear. So it looks like I'll get some good life out of them.
Incidentally...about a year ago, I posted a message about a hard shifting transmission. Mine started doing that again about two weeks ago. They found a few dirty electrical connections, and a blown brake light bulb. I immediately recalled Paisan having the same problems, but it was due to a blown brake light fuse on his Trooper.
Just an interesting point to keep in mind.
Craig
It could be the actuator, I believe the unit is vacuum activated? Maybe a hose is loose, or the unit itself is going? Perhaps it works on startup because there is a rush of pressure to the actuator?
Or is it just a display problem? Maybe it is working, but not displaying properly? I think a trip to a dealership is required.
Anyone got a schematic or description of the vacuum system re: TOD? My dealership seems like such a ripoff -- I always feel scammed after going in there...I'll take it in eventually but would like to be armed with a few more facts!
Thanks.
Craig
What about this post series of someone chasing a bad electrical component - http://forums.delphiforums.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=itog&m- sg=908.1&maxT=7
Tirerack.com has a lot of good information. As well as some tire websites offer actual tire size specs. A 255/70 from one manufacturer may be the same as a 245/70 from somewhere else.
Anyway, if you want to upgrade your tires go for it, I have read that 285s can be used on a stock setup. My 265s fit perfectly and don't come close to rubbing even when offroad and the suspension is flexed to its limit.
I read through those 2 other links, and it seems like isolating those vacuum switches could be the culprit?
I wonder about 4wd low because if this ever occurs offroading, would you still be able to use Low to get home or until you get to a dealership to fix it?
As to 4WD LO, that will also not engage, which I'd think also points toward a vacuum problem. As soon as it gets a bit warmer here in southeast Michigan I'm going to crawl around under there for a look.
Craig
Now, according to the service manager, "something in the electrical system is shorting out the computer, and they are working with Isuzu to figure out the problem". Meanwhile I'm driving a rental. Its my assumption that the inexperienced tech screwed it up. If anyone has the Helms manual on CD and they wouldnt mind emailing me the section on replacing the ECU, I would be extremely greatful. If its adobe acrobat, or if you could cut and past into a word doc. Please help. I need some amo when I go back to the dealership and threaten legal action.
-mike
TOD worked great in uwharrie Didn't use 4-low once.
-mike
-mike
Let us know regarding the LSD, I am interested to read about your results. I have read a lot of things to "it wears out" and "isn't tuned that well to begin with" regarding.
So we'll see what they come up with, hopefully good news.
I also picked up my front LSD unit as well but that won't be going in just yet.
-mike