Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Isuzu Trooper



  • bluedevilsbluedevils Posts: 2,554
    Sadly, we are considering selling our 1998 Trooper to my parents. Can you folks give me some input on what is a fair price for both parties. '98 Troop, Performance Package (automatic trans, TOD, adjustable front seats, CD changeer, etc.). 106k miles. Well maintained. Looks good inside and out but has a few small door dings.

    No leather, no moonroof, no heated power seats.

    I will check Edmunds for its estimate of value, but it's also nice to get feedback from other Trooper owners.
  • cwmcwm Posts: 42
    Just purchased a 1998 Isuzu Trooper for my son for $6,250. I purchased it from a dealer, it was the Luxury model, 98K miles, very nice but not perfect, CD player missing, Green with gray leather interior.

  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    Bluedevils, FYI - I traded in my 99' Performance pkg (103K mi) with Moonroof, Tow pkg and 5 premium wheels in immaculate condition with a cracked windshield for $6000.00. The deal was @ $700 over invoice. I got offers anywhere from 4K to 6K, depending on what the vehicle was. It wound up in Mexico to a friend (fishing buddy) of the used car sales manager. I took pictures of it the day it was traded, it was a good rig. I also took alot of stuff off/out (Lund bug guard & floor mats and stuff like that) when trading it in. Hope this helps.
  • bawbcatbawbcat Posts: 118
    I put almost 500 miles on my 98 Troop this weekend, mostly going about 75 mph on the highway with the AC on, and averaged about 16.5 mpg for the trip. This is about typical for me. The only surprise is that hills had less of an impact on mpg than I expected. My trip included a significant elevation change, from about 2000ft to 7000ft. On the uphill part of the trip including some driving at the high elevation, I still got about 15mpg. On the return trip, mostly downhill and flat, I got less than 18 mpg. I expected more of a difference. I could definitely feel a power descrease at the high elevation.
  • peterismepeterisme Posts: 68
    check engine light

    Last week, I sent my 99 Trooper to dealer because the check engine light was on. They changed Intake Gasket (2nd time). Two days later, the check engine light was on again. So we sent the Trooper to dealer again. This time, they cannot find the reason. Finally, the mechanic suggested us to switch another brand of gas (shell) and try plus gas (89). They said, in the summer the gas in Chicago area is trash because they add thing to protect air. So far, the car runs OK. Do you guys have similar experience?
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Yes. Was in an out of the dealership for a week. First 3/4 times they couldn't find anything wrong, 50 feet out of the lot the CEL would come on again. Finally they found the IMG was bad and replaced it. The day I picked it up the CEL came on again...they said it was probably just a fluke. It didn't re-occur...well I have gotten 2 other CELs since then, but spaced way apart and probably some kind of air flow issue. I just pull the battery cables now...will only bring it in if there is a noticeable performance issue, since having the dealer say "we couldn't find anything" and spending a day to get that isn't quite worth it.
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Price on the Street - person to person $6800

    Price to a Dealer - $4800

    Price to a Friend or Family - Priceless!!
  • bsmart1bsmart1 Posts: 377
    Trooper died and wouldn't start.

    Checked and no fuel getting to the engine.

    Checked and the fuel filter was plugged almost solid.

    Replaced and still no fuel to the engine.

    Called mechanic.

    Mechanic said fuel pump is BAD.

    Tow bill.

    Repair bill $300

    Filters are cheaper than pumps.

    Keep an eye on your fuel filter.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    And easy to swap in.

    Just got back from the dealer. Getting new cats finally! Somehow I had to pay a $95 fee for the diagnostics but i'm not crying considering that they are like $900/each for the parts.

    Getting the timing belt, water pump and tensioner done as well for $725. Probably a ripoff but what you gonna do.

  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    How did you know they were bad? Did you fail emissions testing?
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Had an intermittent CEL for Bank 1 and Bank 2 Catylst Inefficiency. No emissions testing where I register my car.

  • silverghostsilverghost Posts: 154
    All the Trooper folks on holiday? Can't believe there hasn't been a post in two days.
  • silverghostsilverghost Posts: 154
    I got an '01 LS 2WD, 38K, 19-20 mpg hwy at 75 mph w/AC pumpin', ZERO oil burning, no CELs, no IMG prob, clean EGR/PCV, CD changer is good, no baked CATs or seized plugs(yet) . . . I'm feelin' just a little outa' the mainstream! Ut-oh! Is that a rust spot on the left parking brake drum? Would kinda like to upgrade tires and shocks . . . but . . . why?
  • silverghostsilverghost Posts: 154
    somebody get the lights on their way out.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    We'll all be back after we get the BBQ grills fired up! :-)

    tidester, host
  • peterismepeterisme Posts: 68
    two weeks ago, check engine light was on, sent the car to dealer, changed intake gasket;

    two days later, the light was on again. This time, the dealer cannot find the problem. Suggest me to switch to a better gasoline brand and try plus grade gas.

    This week, the light came out again. I found the light came out when the engine speed reached 3000 r/m, (Maybe DHOC (?) kicked in at that time)
    Bored of going to the dealer, just disconnected the battery cable (thanks sbcooke). So far everything is OK.
  • bstone3bstone3 Posts: 97
    Just completed a move from Alabama to Montana - where I am originally from. Sold the house, quit the job and moved north. 1900 mile trip and the 01 Trooper LS TOD did just fine. My wife drove it following me in the biggest U-Haul truck there is towing a transporter loaded up with a Nissan King Cab 4X4. Crossed 11 states to get here - took 3.5 days. The Trooper actually got 22 MPG on some of the legs but that was because she followed me at 45-60 mph. The 26 ft U-Haul got 7.5 MPG. Trooper used 1/4 quart of Wall Mart brand 5-40 synthetic. Trooper has 53K miles on it now and runs and looks like new. We plan to keep it until it drops over dead.
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    I got 28.5 mpg with my old 1984 1.9L Trooper 4 speed following a Uhaul helping move a friend several states away back in 1992. I also got 28+ mpg with this Trooper back in 1985 in Alaska because I drove a full tank of gas distance with a 50+mph tail wind. Normally at 55 mph (remember 55mph speed limits of long ago?) it got 22 to 24mpg. At 72mph (4100 RPM!) it got 19 mpg. At 65 mph with a canoe on top it got 15 mpg, with an 11 gallon gas tank 15 mpg is a PITA to stop so often on a long trip.
  • crqfliercrqflier Posts: 5
    I just replaced the front and rear pads on our 1995 LS (for the first time at 88,500 miles believe it or not and still had "10%" left!) with high-end (expensive) ceramic pads thinking they'd be the best (just starting to tow trailers). They work great, but they create significantly more dust than the OE pads ever did. Given the choice again, I'd probably stick with the OE pads - can't argue with 88k miles on the original set. Rotors are still in great shape, had them turned. Also, check into repacking the bearings when you've got the brakes off - expensive, but much less than the alternative.
  • crqfliercrqflier Posts: 5
    Just returned from a 1700 mile trip up the coast of California and back - about 700 of those miles towing a 20ft, 4000lb travel trailer through the coastal mountains north of San Francisco. Here's some insight on a lot of the topics recently posted. Thanks to everyone on their input prior to our trip.

    Our car - 1995 LS (SOHC engine), automatic, completely stock other than additions noted below, with 88,500 miles before the trip. OE springs with Bilstien shocks and Michelin LTX 255/70/16 tires. Typically get 13 mpg daily driving.

    Preparing for the trip we did the following:
    1. Trailer hitch from UHaul installed with all wiring and a Prodigy brake controller - $450.
    2. Hayden heavy duty "rapid cool" transmission cooler #678 - $200 installed.
    3. Ceramic brake pads front and back (first new brake pads since new) and flush/fill with DOT 4 brake fluid - $600.
    4. Transmission power flush and fill $100.
    5. Power flush and fill radiator $70.
    6. Airlift 1000 airbags in the rear springs installed - $200.
    7. Mobil 1 oil and filter change - first time ever using synthetic on the trooper.

    The trip: 500 miles San Diego to San Jose - fully loaded with stuff. AC was on most of the time. Averaged 15-18mpg at 70-75 mph depending on terain. Picked up the trailer (Thor Tahoe Lite 19UD)in San Jose. 700 miles towing the trailer through the mountains, winding roads, etc. averaged 10-12 mpg - both trailer and trooper loaded with stuff - very close to max GVWR on trooper and about 4000lbs of trailer. Lots of wind, lots of hills (mountains actually), and some pretty congesting city freeway driving (through San Fran/Oakland). 500 miles back to San Diego after dropping off the trailer.

    1. The Trooper handled the trip really well, Be aware of engine speed when towing up hill. Not sure about the power curves, but 34-3500 RPM is a sweet spot, keep that in mind and you can go 60 mph up any reasonable freeway hill in 3rd. If you forget, you're looking at 42-45mph in second at 4500 rpm. Don't tow in "D".
    2. The airbags make a big difference in ride-height, bounce, and sway. Unfortunately i know this because a hose broke on our third day, so half the trip was made with the bags, the other half without. My guess is that the OME springs would help equally well. Decided on the bags instead of the OME springs because neither OME nor the shop would "guarantee" that the springs would work with the bilstein shocks (concern about too much travel, over-extending the shocks).
    3. Transmission cooler probably helped, but no way of really knowing. I'd install one if you've got any concerns - way cheaper than a new transmission.
    4. The Prodigy brake controller is the best - no reason to not get one if you don't already own a brake controller. They are twice the price of regular controllers, but way, way better.
    5. We rented a Weight Distribution hitch with the trailer, it helps a lot. Would have been marginal but do-able without it. I'd definitely use one again towing a similar load.
    6. I would definitely not tow a larger or heavier/longer trailer than we towed (combined with a loaded trooper) - at least not for long distances or in hilly/mountain terain.
    7. No mechanical issues or concerns at all. No issues with engine temp. No oil consumed (our trooper has never used any oil between changes). No transmission concerns.
    8. Mobil 1 "enhances" the sticking lifter clicking noise that typically develops in our engine at about 2500 miles after a usual oil change. Mechanics have told me that the clicking noise is from dirty oil. Oil changes usually eliminate the noise. Not so with Mobil 1. It's actually louder now (and immediately after changing) than it's ever been. Go figure.

    Hope this helps anyone considering towing, transmission coolers, brakes, hitches, etc. since I've seen a lot of discussion on those topics.
  • silverghostsilverghost Posts: 154
    Just emphasizes how deep CR's pockets are!

    BTW, glad to see the lights back on :-)
  • silverghostsilverghost Posts: 154
    Swapped out the stock '01 LS headlamp bulbs for Sylvania SilverStars a couple weeks ago. Based solely on a limited amount of nighttime driving since then, I gotta say that I like 'em! I can't swear that they're much brighter than the stock bulbs, but perceptually, they seem to illuminate the road more sharply. I personally think the 25 Ebay bucks weren't a total waste!
  • wildbucwildbuc Posts: 88
    Thanks very much for the trip report. I do question the advice regarding towing in drive, however, since that would seem to be determined by the towing load. I returned today from a 7 day trip down the Blue Ridge Parkway towing a 2800 lb camper. On the parkway I towed mostly in 3rd but sometimes in 2nd on steep grades. Leaving the mountains and going home over flat country, I was able to tow very easily in drive, with no hunting of the tranny for lower gears.

    Some guys say to never tow in overdrive (drive in the Trooper), while others say it is fine depending on the vehicle and load. I frankly have never obtained any clear info one way or the other upon which to make a choice, but my actual experience indicates that if your Trooper is not straining while towing, it is okay to tow in drive. Anybody with better advice please speak up.
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    FYI - Found this on another site, Thanks to KMEAD!

    iceLink v1.1 for iPod and certain 1998-2002 Toyotas (some to -2004) Vehicles
    Acura 1998-2002 SLX
    Honda 1998-2001 Passport.
    Isuzu 1998-2001 Amigo, 1998-2001 Rodeo/Sport, 1998-2001 Trooper - - _Code=DU&Product_Code=I11_TOYOTA_R1&Category_Code=IA_Toyo- - - ta
  • boxtrooperboxtrooper Posts: 843
    After towing the tick may be "louder than ever" because you have run the engine harder than ever. I used to tow a 4000# trailer regularily with my 1995 Trooper 3.2L 5 speed and never had the lifter tick until the first time I towed. I happenned to be using Mobil1 oil and Mobil1 Filter for that first towing. I think what causes the lifter ticking is dirt, driving hard produces a lot more dirt in the oil. I think my high performance Mobil1 filter got out a lot of dirt especially the extra small particles, but since the Mobil1 filter goes after the smaller particles and does not offer larger surface area for holding more dirt, it reached the point of bypassing. When the oil filter bypasses because of too much pressure drop, there is an easy path for some of the collected dirt to go back out into the engine....
    My solution: use a larger filter. There exists a direct replacement oil filter by Purolator Pure One PL24458. This filter is an inch taller than the stock one. Since the original is only 3 inches tall and at least an inch of that is lost space to the pressure valve and screw on parts, the original must have only 2 inches of filter paper. The PL24458 has an extra inch of length, all of this extra inch is more filter paper. Therefore, the PL24458 has 50% more dirt holding capacity. This filter combined with changing oil at the first sound of ticking or 3000 miles whichever comes first, eliminated the lifter tick noise.
    BTW I used Valvoline SynPower full synthetic nearly all the time, but if you are changing your oil every 3000 anyway very little benefit comes from the synthetic. I like synthetic for easier cold starts and higher temperature tollerance even though niether of those were problems for my 1995 Trooper.
  • peterismepeterisme Posts: 68
    Check engine light III

    The check engine light in my Trooper turned on again and again, so I disconnect the battery cable again and again to reset it. On Monday, I was bored of this game and brought it to the dealer (the third time). They turned me from bored into angry. They said (again) they couldn’t find the problem. The light was on when I sent the car in. It seems some people reset the microcomputer, and then drive the car around the block to find what’s going wrong. Sure, they cannot find the problem. When I told them, the light turned on when the engine speed reaches 3000 or 4000 rpm, the service manager said to me (literally): “you shouldn’t drive the car so fast, I never drive my car that fast.” Come on, in Chicago, if you want to merge into the traffic, you have to step on your gas paddle. Yeah, they are also Buick dealer, so they should be used to 55 MPH. Anyway, I believe the guy is either a liar or an idiot. Later, I asked them to try to bring the engine speed above 3000+ rpm. The guy told me: “we cannot do that unless you pay our mechanic to drive your car on expressway.” My goodness, did my foreign accent made him feel safe to say that to me? Anyway, I have to say farewell to Billstill Buick Isuzu in Downers Grove. It seems they also plan to say good-bye to Isuzu too (maybe that the reason they treat Isuzu customers so bad). When I dropped my car in, I only saw 8 2003 Rodeos in their lot.

    It is so sad that these idiots are destroying this great brand. (Maybe they already did it)
  • sdc2sdc2 Posts: 780
    That's pretty OHC engine like the 3.5L can rev up to 4 grand without even breathing hard. The guy must be used to pushrod V8s, my Tahoe rarely needs to go above 3 grand...but it is no harm even if it does!

    Ask the guy what the redline is for on the tach.
  • sbcookesbcooke Posts: 2,297
    Find another shop. It would be worth $100 for diagnosis, then if it is a warranty item take it to the dealer...or better yet, a different dealer.

    That is pathetic. You could also call Isuzu corporate and get them involved. However my personal luck down that route has been just as pathetic. It's too bad no one from Isuzu monitors web boards or gives much of a darn anymore.

    My solution these days is to go to a trusted mechanic and is out of pocket, however 1/2 as much as dealer costs and less hassle. I am actually happy (knock wood) my warranty expires next month, that way I don't have to worry about the dealership experience anymore. Do I sound jaded?

    PS I still enjoy driving my Trooper, and think it is a great truck, it is the time and energy I have expended getting dealerships to recognize problems...It took me 4 trips (30 minutes each way) and 5 CELs to get them to replace the intake manifold gaskets.
  • pe1227pe1227 Posts: 15
    You could also take it to Autozone. They will read the computer for free. Don't know if they are in Chicago, but I have used them a few times for the check engine light. Hope this helps,

Sign In or Register to comment.