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However, I am trying to figure out a problem that has only happened two or three times so far but today it was serious. While Im driving the rmp guage dropped and I couldnt get any accelleration. I think its a transmission problem, Im going to take to the shop tommorrow, but can anyone give me a heads up to what it is?
I CAN'T FIND THE FUSE, THE LIGHT CAME BACK ON, DRIVING ME NUTS
ANY HELP I WOULD APPRECIATE IT, EVEN THE GMC PLACE DIDN'T KNOW WHERE THE FUSE GOES THE CODE I GET IS P0410
THANK YOU AUTO ZONE TAKES THE CODE OUT BUT COMES BACK ON IN THREE DAYS I HAVE TRIED DISCONNECTING THE POSITIVE CABLE BUT AGAIN COMES BACK ON
I WAS TOLD THEIR ALSO A SMALL HEATER HOSE BACK THERE SOMEWHERE BUT I NEVER SEEN ONE
my fuel sensor.
what I mean is when I'm turning a fairly tight corner while braking, the ABS kicks in for no reason. the ground is dry, etc, so I don't know what is going on.
any help appreciated!
I have a 2000 zr2 and I have the same noise
coming from the drivers side where my feet are and it is driving me crazy
if you can help me our email me at salerno12@aol.com
First, Chev and GM trucks are prone to corrosion buildup under the wheel speed sensors, which pushes the sensors out and away from the trigger wheels in the hubs. It causes an increased air gap between the sensor and trigger wheel, and the system goes into self-test when the vehicle slows to about 5 m.p.h.The fix is to remove the sensors and clean off the corrosion under them.
Second, if it only occurs under tight turns a front sensor harness could be misrouted, resulting in harness connector strain when turning.
An ABS capable scan tool will show which sensor has a signal dropout when the ABS activates.
Please keep the conversation here so everyone benefits. To do otherwise defeats the purpose of a message board which is to exchange information, views and experiences.
tidester, host
o.k first off the truck started acting funny it was running like a go-cart it didn't have any power when i hit the gas, then it wouldn't start, the mechanic said it was the injectors i had that changed brand new. then i changed the fuel pump, now its missing real bad, i was going to change the spark plugs tommorow, when i changed the injectors i bought the central injection unit is their something else i needed? when i changed the injectors the truck wouldn't start then i changed the fuel pump, now its putting but when u floor it it clears up. and when i was testing it after the pump was put on the catalytic converter was glowing red, now i dropped the converter and it still is putting. i need help please u can e-mail at r31687@yahoo.com
Please read message #1164 - the one right before yours!
tidester, host
Things Mechanic Has Replaced So Far
Fuel Pump and Fuel Filter
Fuel Relay
EGR Sensor
Coil
Spark Plugs and Wires
Distributer Cap
Rotors
Ignition Module
Computer
Fuel Injection Spider
Ran Cleaner thru Gas Tank, Oil, and Vacuum Lines
My mechanic has also put it on his diagnostic computer, but nothing wrong shows up! Any help from anyone here would be greatly appreciated! I'm at a loss as to what to do, and my mechanic was voted the best in the area! I think my Jimmy is driving him to possibly change his field of work, or retire! Thanks in advance for any help or ideas!
Thanks
Please keep the discussion here so everyone benefits!
tidester, host
I have a '90 S10 Blazer. What usually happens is that I start it, but as soon as I pop it into gear (any gear), it dies instantly the second I take my foot off the gas. At first, I started to believe that the fuel pump was dead, and wasn't pushing the gas through, but it starts fine, so that confuses me. My next thought was that there was an issue with the transmission, as it will, occasionally, pop out of gear.
I would also like to mention that while I am not really that mechanically inclined, I learn quickly, and am able to think through most situations (ie, in rescent months, I've taught myself how to change fuel pumps, throttle cables, etc. etc.)
Anyone have any thoughts that could help point me in the right direction?
Why haven't we heard this in the news???
tidester, host
Vinnyflex@aol.com
Clean... w\air-intake cleaner. Install... don't use any thread sealer on installation!!
if you really have to use sealant cause a thread is damaged? use pipe dope only...
Idle control valve is the name of the part if the plastic is cracked.
which is easy to crack if you tighten the srews too much... so be careful
But... bad vacuum will cause shifting problems with your 4x4 and transmission.
may want to find your vacuum solenoid under battery tray to be sure you havn't any leaks. take your time with it. Once it took me and two other mechanics 3 days to find a vacuum leak... can be tricky. Best way to find out is remove line a physically blow on the line. Tis way u can tell if the pressure drops without expensive tools and it does work.
hope this information has been useful
Mobius
p.s. you must be mechanically inclined if you can change throttle cables...
maybe you should change your career and be a mechanic? been working great for me...
I have a 2000 Chevy Blazer and am having a problem similar to yours with the flasher staying on once i turn. After the turn the blinkers stop but the switch in the glove box keeps ticking. I picked up new relay for that and put in but did not fix. Still ticking after the turn - what did it take to correct yours ? And how much money did it cost you ?
Chevy is telling me to replace the switch in the steering column now costing about 500.00 with labor - any ideas ? Sharon
Thanks all, Sharon H. :crymad:
Good Luck!
May I suggest you look at the timing,it sounds way off.
And also the distributor, could be warped or even a cracked cap...
these are the creap things to look at first/
It died on the freeway and would not start, guages crazy again. My mechanic put a new ignition switch in, but I'm not sure...... I read someone else had the same problem. Chevy dealer said they were "working on a solution?......
1999 Blazer original owner.
Any Ideas?
Craig
I also have been searching for it for a while & tonite found that it was coming from an electrical box behind the passenger side kick panel. Not sure what the box does, but now I can identify it to the mechanic. Sure was hard to find!!!
Does anyone know what this box does? Can't find it in the Haynes manual.
Thanks!
Not sure what the box does, but I finally found the little bugger tonight.
I took the 99 bazer to another dealer and verified that the 4x4 was not working.
They changed a defective vacuum module and then discovered that the cable was also siezed. They lubricated it and all is well with the exception of they driveline howl.
They also changed the ball joints again.
The truck is still in the shop three weeks now. I personally think the howl is coming from the front differrential, possibly the ring and pinion is worn. I shared this idea with the shop foreman after a lengthy test drive. He said that if the 4x4 becomes partially engaged it may cause premature wear resulting in the above problem. More to follow.
I also ask the tech to look into the "booming " sound that happens when you drive.
The booming noise I am talking about is a low frequency noise that puts pressure on your ears that is usually cause by driveline vibration or exhaust. After a bit of research I found a GM repair document (ID#883304or #02-06-05-002 april 30 2002). This service repair involves installing an exhaust bracket to dampen the exhaust system. We are still working out who will pay for this.