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thanks
Grease all front end fittings and see if it goes away or lessens - any pulling or drift in steering or during braking is also a clue. Also if caliper slide colts are not free and greased they can bind and shift/pop. Have to jack it up and inspect so if you don't trust one shop get a second estimate from a front end alignment shop (sorry but some tire giants may be alittle quick to make work/$$).
Did I mention that I got his one used and the folks that had it previously put a battery in it that was bigger than the tray! I liked to never got it out and when I did I almost dropped it. Luckily it landed on the plastic shroud cover (yeah right). The corner of the battery punched a hole in it! CRAP!!!
Wife could be right but unless she has a really haevy key chain full of junk doubt it. When this happens is the shifter in park for sure all the way cause these do have an adjustment on the trans and if off slightly won't start so next time it won't start with the key on (engine off) and your foot on the brake move the shifter to N and then back to P and see if that allows it to start.
1. Look at the water pump it has 2 holes in the bady that drip when the seal starts to go. Look at the small bypass hose on WP too.
2. Intake manifold gaskets all leak on the 4.3 motors by 100k so look above the water pump where the engine block and intake meet - any leaksge - usually when hot running and the reservior will slowly drop and often you hear the lifters tap on startup. Could also be leaking out the top area in the V between the intake and valve cover and then runs down - seen both before.
3. Radiator hose leaking.
4. Plastic tank cracked below that rad hose - just did a 98 with that. Cost is $150-200 for a new one then you install.
:confuse:
Thanks.
Leaking CPI regulator and hoses/fuel lines (called a nut kit by GM) under the upper intake manifold. You can remove the IMTV (Intake Manifold Tuning Valve) from intake manifold. Once the IMTV unit is removed, visually inspect the inside of intake manifold. The manifold and injector unit should be very carboned up and dirty. Any clean areas indicate a fuel leak internal to the manifold plenum. Most times this is caused by the fuel pressure regulator leaking fuel from vent hole in the regulator body. Other factors may be present (such as a cracked inlet fuel line) but usually the regulator unit has failed. If no leak is detected through the IMTV hole, but a faulty unit is still suspected then you must pull the upper plenum to get a full view of the inside of the intake.
CPI was used until 96 when the newer spider type injection was introduced that has its own problems. Good luck.
I was hoping that someone could shed some light as to diagnosing 4WD problems on my '98 Blazer LT.
Here's the problem:
When the 4Hi button is pressed, the light on the button flashes and I here clicking noises from the TCCM but don't here the encoder motor activating. All it does is go back to 2Hi, All the buttons light when I start the engine and the 2Hi light stays lit. I've tried changing when moving slowly, in Park and in Neutral.
I can get into 4Lo by being in Neutral, hear clicking from the TCCM and also hear the encoder motor shift, and the 4Lo light is on. So this seems to be normal.
If I try to shift from 4Lo to 4Hi, and again, the 4Hi light flashes but it shifts back to 2Hi.
Off hand, I would think that the TCCM and the encoder motor are fine, but can anyone point me in another direction as to why it does'nt like 4Hi
Thanks in advance for any help.
I tried pulling the fuse fuse for the 4WD rather than disconnect the battery. Did'nt work so I will try the battery disconnect next. What it did do though, is when I engaged 4Lo and then pressed 4Hi, both lights stayed on and when I moved the truck, I was'nt getting any tire chirping that you would get on dry pavement in 4Lo. I did'nt want to drive at any kind of speed thinking I'm in 4Hi in case 4Lo engaged.
But on a good note, I can hear the axle coupler that repairdog mentioned activating on the passenger side as well as the encoder motor shifting. That would indicate that mechanically, every thing seems to be O.K. (I think). Then again, the TCCM might not be sending all the signals it should be.
Thanks again for the help :confuse:
If it's not turning, sometimes you can free it by gently moving the steering wheel a few degrees left or right.
Steve, Host