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Chevy Blazer GMC Jimmy Maintenance and Repair



  • If you haven't found out by now:

    Near the firewall on the passenger side should be a small tube rising up near the throttle body. It is no more than 1 inch in diameter and has a small cap.
  • Check and replace Disributor cap. Especially if this slow start issue occures on rainy or humid days more then any other.
  • Check and replace the destributor cap. They carrode inside, and have a tendency to collect moisture.
  • What are the best non-hid replacement halogen headlight bulbs for our vehicles?
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    I like Sylvania Silverstar sealed beam headlights for my 1991 S10 Blazer.
  • My 99 4x4 blazer (160K miles) has had some problems with shifting for about a year now. The problem is intermittent, only begins after driving for long periods of time highway or city driving. Seems worse when the engine is hot.. Shifting gets very jerky between 1st and 2nd gears, also between 2nd and 3rd. Again, this problem only occurs after driving it for a while.

    Any insights? My boyfriend and I are expecting and would really like to fix this problem so I'll have a reliable car to cart the peanut around in.. He's very capable and willing to look into any suggestions you might have. Great with troubleshooting, just needs to know where to start the search!

    Should I get a transmission flush? Do you think it's a connector issue? I'm really hoping it's not my transmission that needs replacing! :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 58,456
    NO! Don't get a "flush" but you could certainly opt for a transmission fluid drop, with a new filter. This is also a good time to examine the old fluid for signs of metal debris. Also, don't use additives. Do the fluid change and see how it goes from there. This is an old transmission so don't do anything drastic to it.

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  • I agree with Mr. Shiftright, a flush is only good for the shop doing it, not for the transmission.

    This kind of hard shifting is almost always due to the line pressure in the transmission being too high. There are several possible causes. The PCM computer is supposed to regulate the pressure based on the driving conditions. For example, more pressure for high RPM shifts, less pressure for slow speed shifts. so it could be a computer issue or a pressure regulator valve issue, or something else.

    I think your first step should be to take it to a local (not chain) transmission shop for a filter and fluid change. Ask them to read the codes associated with the trans. Then you will have some knowledge of what to do next.

    The design life of these transmissions is 70,000 miles, to last through the 50,000 mile warranty period and then a little more, so be prepared since you are already into the third life.
  • I have had the same problem!! It's not the computer or the push-button 4x4, it's the 4x4 "Diaphragm" "Accuator" for the 4x4 under the "Battery" Plate. Remove the "Battery" then remove the "Battery" "Plate", under it is a round rubber "Diaphragm" that has a really thin rubber outside. Sometimes Salt, Battery Acid, or Weathering can cause this part to crack and loose it's suction. (And sometimes it could just be the vacuum hose connected to the bottom of the Diaphragm has popped off.) If thats the case just put the hose back on and put a tie wrap around it. Or the metal clip that holds the 4x4 cable to the "Diaphragm" has rusted and needs to be replaced. It's very easy to do and a new "Diaphragm" isn't alot of money. I hope this helps!!!
  • I know this is a little late on a possible answer, but this may help. First off the advice to wiggle wires with an ammeter in line won't really help much since the fuse blows and you don't get an indication. Since you are blowing the ignition/gauges fuse it IS a primary wire. A primary wire is a large gauge wire, usually red. Do this at night since blowing this type of fuse will cause the problem wire to flash where it is rubbing. Use an old fiberglass fishing rod or a dowel and push the wires around under the hood with the ignition on but without the engine running. Hopefully you will find the offending wire rubbing on some assembly where you may not have to tease the wire out of a bundle going through the fire wall.

    good luck.
  • OMG!!! Wish we would have found this article a month and $$'s earlier. My husband was having the same exact issues with his 96 Jimmy. I told him about your aritcle and the solution. He went out unplugged the plug and presto everything works and no more blown fuses!! Thank you for all the help this has given us!!!!!
  • mfloreamflorea Posts: 5
    Did you find a solution to this problem? My 2001 blazer is doing exactly the same thing, except the right blinker doesn't work either.
  • fixitmanfixitman Posts: 2
    I had the same thing on my 2000 Jimmy. It turned out to be the multifunction switch on the steering column. It's the one that has the turn signal, cruise control, emergency flashers and high beam switches. It developed an internal short that not only caused the power to remain on, but also turned on the brake lights constantly. The switch is readily available but replacement is not so easy. Good luck.
  • mfloreamflorea Posts: 5
    Thank you. We will try that.
  • mfloreamflorea Posts: 5
    OK, the multifunction switch has fixed the problems. They do tell me that the right blinker is blinking too fast (this is the one that didn't work at all prior to the multifunction switch replacement). Thank you again for your help.
  • New problem now, when I turn on the blazer, sometimes the radio light, direction and temp light and dashboard lights work, sometimes they don't. Sometimes they will turn on after I've driven awhile. What could this be?
  • My first guess would be a dying ignition switch. Do the lights come on when you turn the key on, but before you start? Do all the warning lights come on then, or just some of them? Do the gauges work properly all the time?
  • Just had the ignition switch replaced a few months ago, along with the multi-purpose switch. Yes all lights work before starting. Sometimes they work after starting, but about half the time. All the gauges are working correctly. Could it possibly be a short in the new ignition switch?
  • check out this site, new, they have a security bypass module , they say is easy to install. readabout the issues and ill bet the TDM will be the cause of all these GMC starting and stalling issues.
  • Hello I saw your old post my son has a 96 GMC Jimmy that is having the same problem. I was curious if you ever figured it out? Thanks md
  • awkleesawklees Posts: 1
    I have a Kelsey hayes 310 on my 1995 chevy Cheyenne c3500hd truck but can't get the rear brakes to bleed how do I get the abs motor to engage and self bleed? I tried to use the dirt road method and it didn't work although I hear the motor engage and run for a few seconds each time I hit the brakes. Do you have any ideas? The garage wants $150.00 to bleed the brakes and I am not working....otherwise I would gladly pay that.
  • duntovduntov Posts: 133
    I have a 1991 S10 Blazer with the EBC4 ABS and the only way to bleed the brakes is to use a GM Tech 1 scan tool and cycle the modulator as you bleed it.Then bleed the brakes in the normal manner.

    I have never found a auto repair shop that still had a GM Tech 1 scan tool. I am sure repair shops use the "slam the brakes on a gravel road" method to bleed the ABS modulator. Did you ever wonder why repair shops will not let you watch them work on your car?

    The ABS brakes the later models is much improved over the first EBC4 4WAL brake system. Repair shops should have the correct tools to bleed those brakes.
  • evolk1evolk1 Posts: 11
    Any help on these issues is greatly appreciated! My wife drives it now and I'd like to take care of these issues before we give it to my daughter to drive. We replaced the transmission at 110k miles. It has 160k now.

    1.) lights behind the left-most 4 preset radio station buttons are out

    2.) Every time I get in or out of the car, there is a loud creaking / squeaking noise. I was told these are bushings most likely. Are those hard to replace or lubricate?

    3.) Right front door doesn't close correctly all the time. It looks like the door has a tendency to sag / droop below it's intended track / path, so it sometimes closes all the way, sometimes not. Of course, my daughter and wife's solutions for it are to slam the door harder.

    4.) 3 of the 4 speakers are blown. Anyone else have this problem? Daughter hates loud music, as does my wife. They seemed to go out when we had the intermittent turn signal buzzing problem a few years ago.

    5.) Discoloration of the front wheels...brake dust? How to fix that? or can it be fixed?

    6.) Any suggestions on a good replacement stereo and speakers? What type speakers does it require?

    Again, thanks much for the input!
  • johnss10johnss10 Posts: 46

    In order my suggestions are

    1. If your radio has the speed controlled volume (which I really like) I would find a junkyard replacement, could be cassette or cd.

    2. Squeaking could be a lot of things. I would check the ball joints first, since they are pretty prone to wearing. A front end alignment at a locally owned shop (not a chain) would rule them in or out. Some can be lubed and some cannot, ask the alignment shop.

    3. The right front door is probably a worn hinge or bushings. Open the door and look at the hinge at the front (upper and lower). If you caught it in time it will just need bushings. The parts are just a few dollars, but installing can be tricky the first time you do it. A body shop will probably charge an hour labor to do it for you. If the bushings are worn through into the hinge, then it needs new hinges, bigger issue. If the hinges on yours are bolt on, it's a doable fix, if they are welded on, it's a major deal.

    4. The front speakers are really small, like 2 inches. The door speakers are bigger, can get aftermarket replacements, but I would go with junkyard parts from the same as the radio above.

    5. If it is brake dust on the front wheels, a white-wall tire cleaner like bleach-whyte and a scrub brush will clean them. If not, hard to say.

    recognize that this is probably a $1500 vehicle, so I wouldn't spend a lot on fixing these items.
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