Edmunds dealer partner, Bayway Leasing, is now offering transparent lease deals via these forums. Click here to see the latest vehicles!
Options
Popular New Cars
Popular Used Sedans
Popular Used SUVs
Popular Used Pickup Trucks
Popular Used Hatchbacks
Popular Used Minivans
Popular Used Coupes
Popular Used Wagons
Comments
1999 Chevrolet/Geo Blazer - 2WD
Transmitter Programming
Important
Different keyless entry systems are used on General Motors vehicles. The parts are not interchangeable even though the parts may appear to be similar. Observe the back of the transmitter in order to properly identify the system. On 1999 S/T pickups and utilities, use a transmitter identified with GM/UTA preceding the part number.
With the driver door closed, hold down the power unlock button on the door panel.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position.
Turn the ignition switch to the OFF position.
Release the power unlock button on the door panel. The remote control door lock receiver will respond in the following manner in order to indicate that the receiver is in the programming mode:
Locking the doors
Unlocking the doors
Important
All extra transmitters must be programmed at this time. When a new transmitter is programmed, it will deactivate the old transmitters.
Hold down the lock and unlock buttons on the transmitter until the remote control door lock receiver will respond in the following manner:
Locking the doors.
Unlocking the doors.
Repeat step 7 for each additional transmitter.
Turn the ignition switch to the ON position in order to exit the transmitter programming mode.
In order to reprogram the remote control door lock transmitter with a scan tool, refer to Scan Tool instructions.
Memory Seat Recall Programming
Adjust the driver seat to the desired position.
Press the switch labeled SET. A chime confirmation will be heard.
Press the desired position switch labeled 1 or 2. Within 5 seconds from pressing the SET switch, a chime confirmation will be heard.
Press the UNLOCK button on the desired transmitter (key fob) within 5 seconds from pressing the SET switch. A chime confirmation will be heard.
The transmitter (key fob) is now programmed with the desired position switch. Pressing the transmitter UNLOCK button will cause a recall request to be initiated and the seat will adjust to position 1 or 2.
The stored memory positions may be changed without having to reprogram the transmitter.
The transmitter feature is available in all ignition positions.
Memory Seat Recall Unprogramming
Press the switch labeled SET. A chime confirmation will be heard.
Press the UNLOCK button on the transmitter (key fob) within 5 seconds from pressing the SET switch.
Do not press any memory switch or power adjustment for 5 seconds. Pressing a switch will cancel the unprogramming event and the transmitter will remain programmed.
The transmitter (key fob) is now unprogrammed and pressing the UNLOCK button will not effect memory seat operation.
No chime confirmation will be heard when the UNLOCK button is pressed if the transmitter is unprogrammed.
###########
Hold down the lock and unlock buttons on the transmitter until the remote control door lock receiver will respond in the following manner:
Locking the doors.
Unlocking the doors.
Repeat step 7 for each additional transmitter
################
Do you think this mean to hold both buttons at the same time ? I tried seperately and it did not work.
Up to that point all went as expected. I heard the door lock receiver lock and unlock the door but this was it.
I know that the remote battery is good. Another option is that the remote I bought on Ebay ($10) is crap.
Steve, Host
~65K Transmission fluid leak
~70K Engine failure (required rebuilt engine)
~75k Lower ball joints and shocks
~80K Short in the windshield wiper circuit board (recalled on '97 models but faulty on '98 also)
~85K Turn signal noise on all the time
Plus a whole host of interior trim problems, more and more rattles every day and a high pitched vacuum whistle when engine braking. We get approx 17mpg combined city/highway.
Question: After driving and removing the gas cap, do you hear a pressure relief sound (hiss)? I don't on mine.
mrjfleming: I've heard a clogged IAC valve will mess up your idle just as a clogged EGR will.
Does anyone know where this IAC is located?
Thanks
A few times in the last couple of weeks, the Jimmy (2000 4 door) has started rough and the check engine light has been flasing. I took it in to Canadian Tire and they hooked it up to the code reader. This is what I got back:
PO300 Code on ECM - Random Cylinder Misfire
Cylinder #3 had a miss history of 5612
Cylinder #4 had a miss history of 103
Cylinder #6 had a miss history of 1069
What are the cylinder miss numbers and can you find out what they mean? (ie: 5612, 103, 1069)
Canadian Tire wants to replace plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor button, and fuel filter. Maybe it does need all those parts, but the guy sounded more like he didn't know exactly where the problem was...so he wanted to replace everything. Before I fell to their mercy, I thought I would post here first.
Anyway using all those code numbers to diagnose the problem further?
Thanks everyone!!
I complained to the dealer about this and their solution was to replace my thermostat (they said it was "stuck") but the temp gage is still reading low. Before I go back and complain to them again, I was wondering if anybody had any ideas about what the real problem is.
I've read the posts about coolant system problems with the car, and was wonding if the low reading on the temp gage is a sign that my coolant system needs some serious maintenance (flushing, etc).
Also, it strikes me kind of weird, the temp. guage climes to about 150 degrees after driving for about a block or 2, maybe under 45 seconds of drive time. This is in around 65 to 70 degree weather. The temp never climbs above 220 or so.
Any suggestions
What has me concerned is the posts re: premature engine problems.
Most shops put 5 quarts in when they change the oil- The manual specifically indicates 4 1/2 and states that over filling will cause engine damage.
The real indicator is the dipstick - with 4 1/2 the stick is right where it should be. Every dealer and mechanic I've been to in the last 10 years - 3 Jimmies- with one exception insists that 5 quarts is correct- most are lazy !!! I have had 2 occasions where I had to return to the shop and have the filter replaced to remove the extra 1/2 quart.
If your 4.3 is like all 3 of mine - they do not burn or drip any oil- There is very little space in the crankcase for the extra 1/2 qt. Does not sound like much - however, the engineer that designed the engine specifically calculated 4 1/2.
Check it out - if possible talk to a knowledgeable mechanic/engineer and he will explain the many potential problems - The excess oil will try to find a way out through the seals and at high RPM will have a tendency to foam - not good for lubrication.
More is not always better -
Steve, Host
gasoline if this was the case. Hope you don't smoke.
More likely your the float inside your gas tank is stuck or
sank.
as i traded, the tranny was shifting hard 1 to 2, my mechanic says the head gaskets are prone to fail, the sensors for the fuel injection go bad, 'blazers last forever but they nickel and dime you'. Two to nine hundred dollar repair bills are not what i consider 'nickel and dime' expenses,
who knows, the outback may not be any better. but it seems gm's strategy is to sell on price (5K rebate and i let slide a 3.5k gm mastercard bonus as well as big discounts off of sticker). but when you figure the big depreciation hit on gm cars, the repair expenses plus the hassle expenses, even though i want to buy from an amercian company, i can't justify it.
My question: at 50,000 miles, is either one of these problems common or serious since the problem I really needed fixed is now taken care of? My extended warranty won't cover either repair for various reasons.
61,000 miles.
Just tonight the Check Engine Soon Light Came on
At a traffic Light (while stopped)looked like the front end was vibrating some. The car antena was moving back and forth.
First time this has happened. Wondering if anyone has advice on how to further diagnose problem.
One other note, not sure if related, but about a month ago on a highway while doing 65 truck started rattling alot. I pulled over, could not visibly see anything. I bounced the hood up and down a little, and the rattle seemed to go away. Again not sure if related, but worth mentioning.
Thanks
Thoughts?
"The following procedure requires the use of a ball joint remover/installer set (the particular set may vary upon application but must include a clamping-type tool with the appropriately sized adapters) and a ball joint separator tool, such as J-23742 or equivalent."
"CAUTION
The floor jack MUST remain under the lower control arm, during the removal and installation procedures, to retain the arm and spring positions. Make sure the jack is securely positioned and will not slip or release during the procedure or severe personal injury may result."
1. Windshield wipers don't work in intermittent. Occasionally don't work in low. After using the mist function, they don't stop working for about a minute.
2. Airbag warning light comes on intermittently.
3. Blinker noise occurs intermittently when the blinkers aren't on. There are no flashing lights associated with the noise and the turn signals work properly. The noise stops if you stop on the brakes.
4. A few days ago there was a wisp of smoke that came up from behind the steering wheel (from the column maybe) while my wife was driving. This was associated with a burning smell.
Took the car to the mechanic today. He took the steering column apart and said he thinks it is some sort of control box that is causing the problem with the wipers and the blinking noise. He did not see any burnt wires and could not definitively locate the short. Cost of replacement for the box is ~$200 parts, $100 labor. I said go ahead. (It would have cost almost that much if I didn't do it because diagnostic labor rate is $80/hr).
As far as the airbag is concerned...
He read a DTC "B1036H" which means "ADS missing or shorted to voltage".
What does ADS mean? Any thoughts?
Thanks in advance and sorry for the long message.
I got the truck back from the mechanic today. He replaced the "combination switch" which controls the flasher module for the directionals. This stopped the intermittent blinker noise. Cost: $300 parts and labor. (Value of not having to hear the blinker noise ALL the time while driving: priceless!)
He cleared the airbag code and we will wait to see if the idiot light comes back on (and if so, if it is the same error code). Hopefully the combination switch had something to do with the short and the problem is fixed.
The windshield wipers are still all screwed-up. He traced the problem to the circuit board in the wiper motor unit. Cost to fix: ~$300 parts and labor. I will wait on this one as the wipers still work reliably on fast and almost all the time on regular speed. I do know that the wiper circuit board was recalled for 1997 Blazers (mine is a 1998). I'm sure it is probably the same board so it would be nice if Chevy recalled mine also (Yeah right, fat chance!).
Now on to the more serious problems. 3-4 months ago the ball bearings went on the front right wheel. It turned out that the way the vehicle is designed this is part of the wheel assembly which needs to be completely replaced. It cost almost $600, adding several hundred to the cost of what it would have been if designed to be a separate part. When the dealership repaired the problem they didn't tighten all the nuts properly. Being that these are aluminum wheels, if all nuts are not tightened completely, the resulting vibrations will shake the other bolts loose. The wheel almost fell off my Jimmy in the middle of the highway. All that was holding the wheel on were two bolts and none with any nuts left on them. Three posts were broken off completely. I learned from the tow truck driver that this is not an uncommon problem with aluminum wheels. This happened to my cousin twice! If there's a choice, always go with steel wheels. Do I need to explain how dangerous a wheel falling off in the middle of a highway can be? This month the alternator went, coincidently on the same highway, only a few hundred yards closer to home than when the wheel fell off. I even got the same tow truck driver. The replacement alternator happened to carry a lifetime warrantee. Why couldn't they put this quality an alternator in the car in the first place. I've always owned GM. First a 69 Buick Sportswagon that lasted over 220,000 miles, then a 72' Chevy Chevelle that I wrecked at 130,000 miles, almost never had problems and was still going strong. The last car I had before moving into NYC for 20 years where you have to be crazy to have a car was a 79 Bonneville which I gave to my mother and it lasted over 170,000 miles. All these were very reliable cars. Never on any of them did we have to replace the alternator or the bearings. Incidentally, the ball bearings on the left front wheel are now going. This vehicle is junk.
Also consider that GM used many of the same parts across divisions and product lines. I just don't understand that with improving technology such as brake pads that will last 100,000 miles, how they can't make parts that will last at least as long as in the past and put them into their vehicles in the first place. I refer you back to my previous vehicles and the problems with the ball bearings and the alternator. I also refer you to the replacement alternator having a lifetime warranttee and they didn't put one into the car intially. I was just speaking with my neighbor who has an 89 Ford F-150. He's never had a problem with ball bearings and didn't have to replace his alternator until about 140-150,000 miles.
The only reason I can come up with is that GM is designing cars with planned obsolecence in mind. This way they make more money on repairs and quicker replacement of vehicles. Some of these problems can be dangerous such as the aluminum wheels as described earlier and the alternator and water pump. Let's say they die in the middle of the night in the middle of nowhere in such adverse conditions such as extreme cold or heat and you're going to be stuck there for hours your life could be at risk. Any part that can totally incapacitate your car in it's failure should be designed to last. GM also designs too many of it's parts in combination so that if a smaller problem occurs a whole assembly needs to be replaced to fix the problem at much greater expense. This is the bearing I mentioned before as well as the dashboard lights with cost way too much to replace. GM is guilty of greed and in the pursuit of such a willingness to put it's customer's lives, or at least well being, at risk, just so they can keep dipping into your pockets after the initial purchase. Until GM changes their ways of doing business and start showing more concern for their reputation and customers over profit, do not buy GM. Incidentally, so much for the GMC advertising claims of Professional Grade Quality and Precision Engineering.
*1st water pump 74k - $200
*2nd water pump 103k - $275 (labor increased)
*ABS sensor (caused rear wheels brakes to not engage, wearing out front frequently) No cost due to a recall - lots for front brakes replacement
*Brake Power Booster(wife driving lost all braking)$390
*Wiper Module Recall - No Cost
*Two batteries within 2 years
*Alternator
*A/C Compressor & Dryer Assy - $1061
*New Cooling System components including a new plastic tank, manifold gasket & another water pump plus hoses - all in all about $800 in parts plus labor - $1942
*That day I drove it home heard a fluttering noise from the engine and low oil pressure, took it back and ended up with having a rod & main bearing replacement - parts n' labor totaling $3017.
I took as good of care with this thing as I've always provided for my vehicles through the years, many of which lasted easily into the 200,000 mile mark - Japanese and American, so I know how to sustain good cars. This Jimmy is not a good car. Clearly this line was put out there to compete in a white-hot SUV market before it was tested beyond the design phase.. We here, in effect, did the testing and the results are clear, to me. So now, lets talk about why Toyota & Honda are consistently nos. 1 & 2 in our auto market for the last few years. American made - I give up on that. I cannot afford it again and am very afraid to take the chance. Sorry Detroit Auto Workers. Your management has let you/us down. - Stephen Tarr, Hanford, CA
1. Air conditioner was working fine this summer. Then after sitting for 4 days, the air conditioner does not produce any cold air. Period. I checked the fuses in the dash and they appear fine.
2. Hard to believe, but I still have the original disc brakes. (Knock on wood) Any suggestions regarding replacement? The dealer wanted some ABSURD amount to replace the disc brakes. No weird noises yet, but they braking is "soft" compared to original condition.
3. The Autotrac system is not shifting properly. Now that Winter is approaching this is a concern! I cannot shift out of 2WD using the Autotrac pushbuttons. The 4W Hi and 4W Lo buttons will "blink" but not become steady in color to indicate the transition. I can tell when driving that the Blazer remains in 2WD when the 4W Hi is blinking. Sounds like trouble to me.
Thank you all!
-Thad