By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
WRT the DSP settings on the Comand, I can't tell, as the ML Comand does not have them! As a matter of fact, it's on the list of questions to ask MB in Stuttgart.
And yes, it's got an indicator for the glowplugs, but with the very short warmup period required, you hardly get to see it. Buckling up takes more time!
It's got the autostart feature, but I see form the manual that this is only on trucks with auto trans - people owning the manual version have to turn the key and hold it until the engine starts.
Kind regards,
Birger
I was told that this change went into effect within the past few weeks.
Average fuel consumption over the initial 5,000 kms/3,000 miles:
'99 ML 320: 15.01 MPG @ US$ 3.44/gallon
'01 ML 270 CDI: 20.41 MPG @ US$ 2.58/gallon
Same type of driving - need I say more?
Kind regards,
Birger
On my ML320, I've gotten 19mpg and 16.6mpg for the last 2 half-tank checks (checking using the fillup receipts instead of the trip computer which says I'm getting around 16.5mpg)...
We'd like to add them if possible, anyone done this recently to a '99? Thanks!
They're yanking your chain. It does work.
I changed from Dino to Synthetic @ 1K prearranged with the dealer on purchase, with me providing the oil of choice. Amsoil 30 weight.
Be vary wary of thinking that ALL dealers will change over to synthetic oil for free!
Vehicle care is alike health care - the more involved you are the better care you receive.
Mike 00 ML320 17K
Guys,
I called my friend again last night and he is positive about seeing that memo. He told me it was kind of recent, maybe a few weeks old. He says that the engine comes from Germany with Mobil 1 in it and that Mobil 1 must be used for the regular FSS intervals. If anyone is going to a dealer soon, please investigate further. I won't be going for another couple of months but for me it is not so important since I use Mobil 1 @5k mile intervals anyway and I pay for the service. This can potentially affect a lot of people and the type of oil they get from the dealers (especially their free scheduled maintenance).
Mobil 1 is better for the engine during cold starts and you should definitely have it if you live in a cold climate.
Regards
TJ
Cheers
TJ
I have a 99. I want quiet, medium performance, good life expectancy.
I have 47K on the original Generals.
Also, are doors seals a good idea, and what do they cost?
I would like some objective information/feedback regarding build quality and reliability of the U.S. built Mercedes ML-Klasse. I've experienced the Deutsch built Mercedes and wonder about the differences in selected materials.
Thank you,
-C
Right topic. Just something we go over repeatedly every few months. You might want to have a look at the archives. It's basically up to average now as opposed to poor for 1998/1999 models.
As for ML320 vs. ML430, it's a personal decision. Test drive both and let us know what you think. Some of us feel there is not much difference except if you're towing or want a sporty feel.
jferris1:
If you can hold out until March, the Michelin Cross Terrain will be available in the ML's size.
In retrospect, the black side bars might have been a bit more durable. Any feedback on that?
TIA
TJ
My CLK is close to the next service interval and will change to Mobil 1 10w-30 for our climate in Atlanta. First 2 oil changes were with dino oil, and performance has been great. Oil looked in pretty good shape given the miles between changes suggested by FSS. Glad to hear positive comments on this oil.
I actually HATE to buy vehicles. The only thing I hate more is parting with one after I've had it for some time since I tend to get attached to them.
I've pretty much narrowed it down to Mercedes Benz or Land Rover ... does anyone have an opinion. Any particular models or years I should steer clear of?
I'd like to see what ever I purchase still going strong 10 years down the road.
All assistance and input welcome!
Thanks in advance!
Tim
The seal retrofit is not officially sanctioned by MB. Some dealers will refuse to do it...
mikado462:
Funny choice...Land Rover for durability? :-)
Land Rovers do depreciate quickly, so it will be less expensive to purchase w/ the same age as an ML.
Leaning against the door I could feel cold wind coming through the area where the airbag cover meets the door.
While I wasn't overly concerned, it was just enough of a cold chill to be annoying. I checked the other door at the same spot and it was fine. The doors up front were fine too.
All this talk about seals has got me wondering. Has anybody had this experience?
Do you think the service department can do anything about it?
The road is really nasty in NYC, and my Baby is is all covered up with dirt and salts, anyone know if there is any handwash/self wash place around that I can safely bring my ML to wash..... grrrr
by the Happy New Year to my Asian Cousins on this board.
later...
no, there's not much stop&go included in those figures. But of course our speeds are a bit higher than yours, which might explain the difference. Push ANY ML beyond 100-110 MPH and you can nearly see the fuel gauge drop. But then again, this is far worse with the gas engines.
Birger
Prior to bringing it in, I had hosed off the under side of the truck and noticed the mud easily washed off everywhere BUT the exhaust components. The dealer did not clean the exhaust, but recommended I drive through some puddles in the next rain. I have since taken it to the quarter wash and jet sprayed all the parts I can see. I have yet to jack the front and look closely for residual mud. Yes, I still have the burning smell.
Sorry for the long story, but my question is, does this sound normal? Has anyone else gone through enough mud to get a burning smell? My service dept has not been stellar in the past, so my confidence in them is low.
If you enjoy an overly hippy feel and ergonomics designed for another species by all means get the Land Rover.
If you enjoy the confidence of sports car like handling, often exceeding 20 mpg, the best on-center steering feel of any sub, a modern engine design and resale value second to none get the ML 320.
I just called my dealer and yes it is true!! The switch is on! All dealers will be switching over or already have switched to Moil 1 on 1998-current ML models. It was a memo initiated by MBUSA to switch over (it happened a couple of weeks ago). The details are still a little fuzzy, but from my conversation today, the free FUSS on 2000-current ML models will get FREE moil 1, 1998-1999 I'm not quite sure about (you might still have to pay because they started the free FUSS maintenance for 2000 on models). Other models are switching over as well, they are still working out all the details for it. I would check with your local dealer first to make sure they know about the new program.
Dave
Dave
I never had any problem with my land rover. Every car has problem, period.
Let's see:
1. Gas mileage is bad in L/R (17 max) Vs MB (20 max).
2. Drag Coeffience is good in M/B. L/R make me feels like "flowing" on Hwy.
3. I still like L/R body style.
4. Easy to get in & out on M/B. Back seat are too tight & not much leg room on L/R.
5. Prefect snow Vehicle on M/B. I totaled my L/R due to the skid (High CG).
6. M/B - Car like handling
Good luck
I remember you asking someone on the forum about chrome coated vs stainless steel side steps while ago. I was just wondering if you got an answer. I am in the market for side steps and would like to get stainless steel. The post on rust spots on the chrome side steps after just one year freaked me out. My '00 ML is black, maybe I should just get the black ones? Any advice?
NoelB
I also got the chrome ones (didn't know about the SS ones which I probably would have gotten since they're only $100 more). The black ones will still rust because they're not SS.
The SS ones look like the M4 side rails but w/ "steps" stuck on top. Not bad looking IMHO. They're closer to the body than the chrome steps. Check out the 2001 ML accessories catalog.
;-)
Robert
Thanks
Robert
David
The steps are from the M4 pkg which was offered from 1999-2000, so yes, they should fit.
Folks whose dealers are using mobil1 for FSS changes:
Can someone please get a copy of this memo/MBnet? We have a service manager from a CA dealer on the M-Class list. He swears that a Dec. 2000 memo only said Mobil1 is *approved for use* (i.e., you can't break anything) w/ MLs; it does not say "use Mobil1 for all service oil changes". It's also supposed to make the lifters louder on the M112 and M113 engines...
Happened to stop by Sylvania's website, where I noticed they will have a next generation HID auxiliary lamp available by May, that has a color temp of 5400 degrees kelvin!!! For those who want white light, that's very white. Halogens have a color temp of around 3200K, current HIDs have a color temp of around 4200K. 5400K is quite a difference.
I was wondering if you knew anything about the AutoTour that they have in Germany, where you tour MB, BMW, Porsche AG. It is a two week trip that takes you all around germany. My father and I have been meaning to take this trip, and we finally found time this year.
I have seen an article in the WSJ about this tour, but I cant seem to find it any more.
I searched on the web and this is the only one that I find, but their site is down...
http://google.yahoo.com/bin/query?p=AUTOTOUR+germany+site:www.about-australia.com
Any Ideas?
Robert
The UK site www.autoexpress.co.uk has an interesting article about the forthcoming revised M-Class. There's also a concept picture...it's good looking, but unfortunately not official. Later.
-Todd
I know what you mean. I saw this show in Speed VIsion twice,Sponsor by Porsche AG. Maybe if you can get a hold of someone at SpeedVision.com. You probably can get help from them....just a thought.
Good Luck
Regarding the burning smell, you may need to have a detail visual inspection around head shield along the exhaust pile and under the engine to see any black residual from the road construction. If this stuff stick on the head shied, it will take a while to burn out.
Best is to turn on the engine, idling, while you inspect. That way you can pin point where is the smell come from easier.
Good luck