Lease Questions - Ask Here

buybuybuy · April 2004

New lease offer of $259/month for 2yrs/12,000 miles. 15 cents for overages.

$999 down payment. $1,533 due at signing which includes 1st month's payment($259), sec deposit($275) and cap cost reduction($999)

MSRP $28,980
Actual Net Cap Cost $26,278,49

option to purchase at end $21,155,40.

Is this a good deal to get into knowing that you will turn it in after 24 months?

Thank You

kyfdx · April 2004

Well...you shouldn't ever put a downpayment on a lease, but it does reduce the finance charges.. Just not enough to make it worth it.

Example:

Cap cost $35K
residual $21K
MF .001
Finance charge ($35k + $21K) X .001 = $56/mo.

Cap cost $35K - $10K downpayment = $25K
residual $21K
MF .001
Finance charge (25K + $21K) X .001 = $46/mo.

So, you can save some finance charges, but in this example with a low money factor you only save $10/month while putting at risk $10K.

regards,
kyfdx

audi_buyer · April 2004

Car_man, I'm planning to lease a GLS 1.8T 5M with options for a selling price of $22,999... could you please tell me the current MF and residuals for a 15K/yr and 36months lease... and what will be my monthly payment??

Thanks in advance..

confused · April 2004

Thanks so much for your help car man. I am on my way to the dealer to make my deal. FINALLY!

I have a question for a friend however. She is planning to lease the 325i. They told her that because her credit is not strong she needs to put $4000-5000 down. Is this true. I am not putting any money down on my lease, granted I have strong credit, but is that a requirement of BMW Financial if your credit is weak to put down more money?

Thanks again.

lesd · April 2004

I hope you can help me and am at the right site to post this. I may able to sell my vehicle and get out of this horrible lease I am in. What is a fair price? Is $21000 a fair price?

48 month lease @ 579.80 per month
28 payments thus far $16234.40
20 payments left $11596.00
End of lease buy out $16351.00

My 4 runner is fully loaded with all the extras, sunroof,running boards,tow package....
Appreciate any help with this.

CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

Thanks for the additional information, siteexpert. According to the latest program that I have seen, if you were to lease a 2004 Infiniti G35 Sedan AWD through Infiniti Financial Services this month for 3 years with 12,000 miles per, its base lease money factor and residual value should be .00164 and 59%, respectively.

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CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

You're welcome, madness. Dealers are not allowed to lease vehicles with lower money factors than the ones that BMW Financial Services is providing right now, unless they are able to find a better deal through a different bank, which is highly unlikely.

The selling prices of leased vehicles definitely should be negotiated, just as if you were paying cash for the vehicle that you are getting. Negotiate as low as possible a selling price on the exact model that you want first, then you can talk about how much money it will cost to lease it. Also, I always advise consumers not to make any sort of down payment when leasing. I say this for two main reasons. The first is if your leased vehicle is totaled in an accident or stolen and never recovered during your lease, your insurance company pays off the bank that you were leasing it through and your down payment essentially disappears. Also, down payments on leases do nothing to reduce their lease-end purchase prices. So this car's lease-end purchase price will be exactly the same, regardless of whether you put $3,500 down or absolutely nothing down at all.

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CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

Hi ch7656. Here is the information that you are looking for. If you were to lease a 2004 BMW 525i through BMW Financial Services this month for 4 years with 12,000 miles per, its base lease money factor and residual value should be .00215 and 64%, respectively.

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CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

You're very welcome, lwv. I am glad that I was able to help you out. Please let me know if you have any other questions.

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CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

Hello bmw325. Obviously $500 over is better, but, the selling price that you were quoted for this car is not bad, regardless of whether it is $500 or $1,000 over invoice. I suspect that it is $1,000 over the dealer's actual invoice cost of the car and that they are adding a couple of fees that are charged by BMW, like perhaps an advertising fee, and saying that the price is $500 over that. The main problem that I have with this deal is that the money factor that you are being charged is too high. BMW Financial Services' current base lease money factor for a 3 year lease of a 2004 325i is .00125. The only reason why your fee would be higher than this is if you had your security deposit waived (which is not the case), your acquisition fee waived (which is not the case), or if your dealer is marking-up BMW's base factor to add additional back-end profit to your deal. I suspect that the latter is happening here. You definitely should insist that your dealer use BMW's base money factor to calculate your payment. If they refuse or try to mislead you you are free to comparison shop with a few other BMW dealers in your area to see if they will lease you this car using BMW's base program. Another thing that bothers me about this deal is that BMW FS' current base lease acquisition fee is $525 in all states except for New York. Dealers are allowed to add additional profit to banks' acquisition fees to pad deals as well. Again this may be what is happening here.

As far as putting money down goes, I always advise consumers not to make any sort of down payment when leasing. I say this for two main reasons. The first is if your leased vehicle is totaled in an accident or stolen and never recovered during your lease, your insurance company pays off the bank that you were leasing it through and your down payment essentially disappears. Also, down payments on leases do nothing to reduce their lease-end purchase prices. So this car's lease-end purchase price will be exactly the same, regardless of whether you put $2,500 down or absolutely nothing down at all.

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307web · April 2004

I think there is one scenario where it might make sense.
If you are planning to purchase a home before the end of the lease and the lower monthly payments you get after putting money down makes the difference in qualifying for the mortgage due to a better monthly debt to income ratio.
Is there some kind of insurance available to cover the loss of the downpayment if the car is totalled early in the lease?

CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

JB, here is the latest info that you're looking for. I do not believe that Volvo is providing any lease money factor support on the 2004 XC90 T6 right now. So if you were to lease one through Volvo Finance right now, you would have to use its base standard lease money factor of around .00320 (it varies a little by region). Its 39 month 15,000 miles per year residual value should currently be 56%. The 12,000 and 10,000 miles per year residual values for this term should be 58% and 59%, respectively. If I am not mistaken, in your area, Volvo is providing $1,500 lease cash on XC90 models that may be used to reduce their capitalized costs.

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CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

I think that we are going to have to change your name, buybuybuy, to leaseleaselease. It is a little long though

. I am familiar with the two year Honda Odyssey lease that you mentioned in your post. Honda actually just recently enhanced its advertised lease on this van. Prior to the current 2 year, $259 per month with $999 down deal for a 2004 Odyssey EX with the rear entertainment system, Honda was advertising a 3 year, $279 per month with $999 down deal on the Odyssey EX without the entertainment system. There's definitely nothing wrong with leasing for only 2 years, provided that you understand that in most cases, 2 year leases have higher payments than 3 year leases. This is because new vehicles experience their highest rate of depreciation during the first 12 months of ownership. The longer you lease, the larger the number of payments you have to be able to spread this large initial depreciation hit over. You probably will be able to lease this same van with a lower payment if you go with a 3 year lease. Of course, many people like to get new vehicles every 2 years and there's nothing wrong with that, just as long as they understand that they are paying extra to do so.

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chris23 · April 2004

Thanks Car_man for the info. I have a follow-up (I should have been more specific in my first post). What will the residual AHFC factor be for 12,000 miles per year (instead of 15k)?

Also, regarding our current leased '01 Accord, if I look at Trade-In value on NADA, we're slightly negative equity ($500 to 1000), but if I look at Retail value, we're positive equity by a grand or so. There is one more payment due the 11th of May, the lease expires the 14th, and the front bumper needs to be replaced (has a crack) if I turn it back over to AHFC ($450+ per the AHFC inspector). Our lease began about 2 weeks before the AHFC wear and tear clause about single incidents exceeding $500 - so that didn't help us.

We obviously don't want to pay that last payment or for the bumper, turn the car in 3 days later, then have another immediate payment. I've been offered a straight trade by the dealer, which means I'll save about $770 (bumper + final payment) if I lease with them again. The dealer says the balance won't be rolled into the next lease.

Does this sound reasonable? I know they'll still be able to make money on the car, but do I have any room to try to get a little cash on the trade-in? I think we're going to try to make our deal on the 30th of the month. That's a good day for us and I'm told/have read that the end of the month is sometimes a good time to get better deals.

Thanks again! Sorry for the War and Peace-esqe question!

Chris

CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

Hey audi_buyer. I would be more than happy to help you out. If you were to lease a 2004 Volkswagen Passat GLS 1.8T Sedan through VW Credit this month for 3 years with 15,000 miles per, its base lease money factor and residual value should be .00050 and 46%, respectively. In addition to this low lease money factor, Volkswagen is providing $1,000 dealer lease cash on 2004 Passats that will help you to negotiate an attractive capitalized cost. I would be more than happy to calculate a sample lease payment on this car for you, however in order for me to do so I need you to provide me with its full MSRP.

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jratcliffe · April 2004

You're right, I'm an idiot. Insufficient caffeine this AM.

kyfdx · April 2004

Don't be hard on yourself.. I never see my blunders or spelling mistakes until someone quotes me. The advice was still correct. Never put money down a lease.

regards,
kyfdx

buybuybuy · April 2004

Thanks for the response on the EX-RES ODyssey.

You seem to believe this deal is OK for what you've read.

If a regular EX was to be $279/month with $999 down and now one with RES is $259/month with $999, I do not understand how I am paying more when the monthly is less and I get a better car.($750 MSRP better,whoopee). It's less per month and I can "escape" after 2 years.

I understand a 3 year be may be less than $259 but that's not what Honda is offering?

Now I've read many posts that you should never pay a down payment. Does that include the $999 program requirement? I don't plan on putting anything else down as the upfront and monthly fit into what I want. And after 2 years I can cut myself clean of the car and be out only about $1500. As one person mentioned, I am basically paying about $320 / month by factoring in the upfronts. Is paying the $999 not advised?

I don't see how the deal goes down without it.

Also, has Honda been known to negotiate sales price on its lease program offers? They are obviously running this off of MSRP.

This deals sounds solid. Guess I should run away from it really fast, right.

Thanks

kyfdx · April 2004

I doubt they are running the deal at MSRP. Most of the advertised deals involve some discount from the dealer off MSRP.

I think Car_man is saying they probably have better 3-year deals in place now also, since they have upgraded the 2-year deals.

Most advertised deals that include a downpayment are only doing that to lower the advertised monthly payment, to make it look more attractive. I'm sure you could have the $999 rolled into the cap cost, with the resulting $29 or so added to the monthly payment. If all other terms are the same, that is the way I would go.

It is a great deal as advertised, but they may have a 3 year deal that is even better.

regards,
kyfdx

buybuybuy · April 2004

Thank You. I understand now. More on me than Car_man.

Bottom line is that the $999 isn't a wash as some point out. It does "something". If I have it included then my payment goes up $29 or so. By paying, it reduces my monthly.

What attracted me was the 2 year out. I know many people paying $400+ on 0%/5yr loans. That's close to my mortgage for a 150K home!!

I'll gamble and hold on to the extra $7k inmy wallet. I'll make enough in a mutual fund over 2 years to pay another down payment of $999.

Thanks

bv73ms3 · April 2004

Hi Carman,
This is actually my first post but I wish I had found your forum for my past 4 leases! Now this time, I'm going through you first.

I noticed you recently gave info for a 2004 Infiniti G35X for a 36 mos and 12k miles/yr lease. What are the MF and residuals for a 39, 42, or 48 month lease with 10K miles?

Also, what is the MF and residual for the new 2004.5 Volvo S40 T5 for 36 or 48 months?

thanks!

audi_buyer · April 2004

Car_man, I just got back from the dealer... my price for the car with leather and ESP would be $23,601(including all fees) + TTL.... the MSRP of this car is $26,150... please provide me with a sample lease payment with nothing down as I'm planning to go back to the dealer in a couple of hours or first thing tommorrow morning to put a deposit... Thanks for your help

mzmarlo · April 2004

I have never leased a car before, but it seems like the only affordable way to go. Here is my scenario: I drive 43,000 miles a year as a commuter. Which means I will go over the alotted lease miles. Which means I should buy the car at the end of the lease. Do I go with the monthly payment plan I am $$$ confortable with and find a dealer that will meet that plan or do I need to forget a lease all together because of the ridiculous miles I am putting on the vehicle? I want the Pacifica and have made $350 the payment I am comfortable with. Advice, please????

ch7656 · April 2004

Thanks Car_man

postnobills · April 2004

Thanks for the reply Car_Man. I live in VA - could you tell me where in the range the rate would be for my lease (3 yr, 12K miles, A4 3.0 Cab? Also, should the effective interest rate be the same if I went with Audi's Premiere Purchase Plan? Do you have any opinion on that program? Seems to me to be the best of both worlds - no acquisition fee as there would be for a lease, but still has a guaranteed residual and the ability to turn back the vehicle at the end of the term.
Thanks!

ch7656 · April 2004

Car_man-
Thanks again for the help...just talked to the dealer and they're throwing me for a bit of a curve....they're quoting a MF of .00215 & a residual of 64% on a 36month/12k which is consistant with what I've seen you share here with another poster...but on the 48 month they (the dealer) are quoting a MF of .00215 & a residual of only 48% w/12k per year which is much different than what you shared...What do you think?? Find another dealer or??

Thanks again for all your help

ch7656

bmw325 · April 2004

Hi Car_man and kyfdx:
Thank you for your advices... I sent emails to two dealers today asking for 0.00125MF and $525 acquisition fees and they haven't replied yet (hopefully they will)... if not, I guess there are a few more dealers in my area... :P
Thanks!

drose224 · April 2004

Carman,

I have an Audi TT Quattro Convertible comming off a 39 lease in early July. Cap cost was 40,615 after negotiating a 2000 reduction from MSRP. Residual Value is 27,800. Although I love the car and was considering purchasing it I now think the residual is too high. A couple questions. I love convertibles and for me they are just toys..Drive em in the spring and summer and put em away for the winter here in Pennsylvania. I'd like to lease another in June or July. I've been thinking about several models from another TT to an A4 cabriolet to a 3 series BMW convertible. Question one, Is there an optimum lease term for someone putting 0 money down. And generally who has better lease deals, Audi, BMW, Volvo, Saab, Honda/ I know that's a lot to chew on, but any help would be appreciated.

Thanks!!! David

jratcliffe · April 2004

MZ, you have a fundamental issue with which leasing can't help you: you drive a lot, which chews up the value of your car. All that leasing does is let you pay only for the part of the car's value that you actually consume, rather than paying (over time) for the whole car.

If you drive 15k miles a year, and lease a car for three years, a typical car will be worth about 50% of the sticker price at the end of that time (called the residual value). For a Pacifica, that would mean a residual of about $14-15k. If you drive 43k miles a year, at the end of a 3 year lease, you'll have a car with 126k miles on it. Clearly, that won't be worth as much as a car with 45k miles on it - you've consumed 81k (126-45k) miles of extra value, and you'll have to pay for that value somehow, either by turning the car in and paying mileage overage charges (typically $0.15 a mile, or about $12k in this case), or by buying the car outright. If you buy the car outright, you'll be paying $14-15k (the residual value) for a car that's worth far, far less than that. Either way, you'll pay for the car's value that you've consumed - leasing won't help you here.

Bottom line, you burn a _lot_ of auto value every year, because of the mileage you put on your cars. Whether you lease, and then buy it at the end of the lease, or buy it outright, you'll have to pay for that value somehow.

I think that leasing's a bad idea for you, actually, for two reasons:

1. You pay a fee to lease (usually $500 or so). This means that if you know you're going to buy the car at the end of the lease, you might as well buy the car upfront, and save yourself the $500.

2. You may well find yourself in a BIG hole at the end of the lease. Given your mileage, as above, you'll have to come up with either $12k in mileage fees to turn the car in, or $15k to buy the car outright, and no lender is going to lend you $15k on a car with 126k miles, so you'll have to pay cash.

Frankly, if $350 a month is what you can afford, you're going to have issues. If you assume a car's good for 200k miles (aggressive, but not unreasonable), then your cars will die in about 5 years. At 4% interest (best available if you have excellent credit), and a $350 monthly payment (assuming no taxes) on a 5 year car loan, you can afford about a $19k car. This doesn't include any maintenance costs, either, and these will increase noticably after you hit 100k miles. If you assume the car will only last 150k miles, you're looking at a 3 1/2 year lifespan, which for the same assumptions, would let you buy a car worth $14k.

In your position, I'd look at low-mileage used cars with good reliablity records, and drive the heck out of them.

ponytrekker · April 2004

Absolutely, positively not. Buy a Honda.

307web · April 2004

A new Civic LX or a Corolla LE could probably hold up pretty well for 4 years/200K miles and still be sold to a private party for at least a couple grand.
Pacifica is a poor choice for this purpose.
If he needs the room of a Pacifica, there is nothing he can get for $350 a month that can hold up to that massive mileage.

l58472h · April 2004

I leased my mazda 6 in september , in the lease they included my 5,000 upside down.

Could I go in the same dealer and get a trade in for another car?

multiplechoice · April 2004

I agree with others, leasing does not make sense for you. The only way I can see a lease work out for you is if the vehicle is used for your business and you can write it off. (by the $350/mo payment target, this is probably not the case). Get a reliable vehicle and look for 0% financing, i.e. Toyota Camry. I've seen these vehicles at prices around $14,000 for a 4 cylinder model with A/C, auto.

CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

No problem, confused. I do not believe that BMW Financial Services has any sort of down payment requirement on leases. Usually either consumers qualify for its special lease program or they don't. It is possible that this dealership is running your friend's lease through a different bank, in which case I suppose that it is possible that there is some sort of down payment requirement. I always advise consumers to put as little money down as possible when leasing, which with most banks is none.

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CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

Hi lesd. I am sorry to say that you are indeed stuck in a very bad lease. If you are actually able to get out of this deal now without spending too much money, it may be in your best interest to do so. This discussion really is not the best place to look up used vehicles' current values. You should be able to get an idea of what your 4Runner is currently worth by looking up its Edmunds.com True Market Value in the Used Vehicle Pricing section of this site. You may also want to stop by the Real World Trade-In Values discussion that appears over on the Smart Shoppers Message Board. If you post the details of the vehicle that you are interested in selling, including its trim level, condition, options, and where you live one of our most knowledgeable community members, Terry, will probably be kind enough to give you his opinion of its current value.

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CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

You're very welcome, Chris. That sure was a long question

. American Honda Finance Corp.'s residual values for leases with 12,000 miles per year are 2% higher than its 15,000 miles per year residuals. I am surprised that you were assessed for excess wear and tear by the inspector that AHFC sent to look at your car. I have seen vehicles with all sorts of dings and scratches that I was positive would get at least a little fine get clean bills of health. As you mentioned though, it definitely does not help your case that Honda instituted its wear and tear waiver policy after you signed your deal. I believe that AHFC raised its acquisition fee when they implemented this new policy, so at lease you got to pay the cheaper one. I am sure that the dealer that you are working with is telling you that they can get out of your current lease a month early and you will not have to pay for any excess wear and tear, however if your car is not worth significantly more on the open market right now than it costs to buy it from AHFC then your dealer will have to pay money out of its own pocket to get you out of this car. Even if they tell you that they will not roll this cost over into your next lease, this will still have a negative impact on your ability to negotiate an attractive selling price on your next new vehicle.

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CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

Buybuybuy, even though Honda is advertising a 24 month lease on the 2004 Odyssey, its special lease program are almost always available for both 2 and 3 year leases. There is a good chance that you would be able to apply the special lease money factor that is being used to arrive at the advertised 2 year payment to a 3 year lease. Of course, this van's 3 year residual values would be different than its two year residuals though. The $999 that is mentioned in the advertised lease is not required by Honda. It is merely a suggested down payment that they use in their advertisements, because it enables them to show a lower monthly payment. American Honda Finance Corp. allows its lessees to lease any of its vehicles without making any sort of capitalized cost reduction. Keep in mind though that not making a down payment will increase this vehicle's monthly payment a little bit. You definitely should negotiate the selling price of the Odyssey that you are interested in leasing. The selling prices of leased vehicles can be negotiated, just as if you were paying cash for them. Given the fact that the Honda Odyssey will be completely redesigned for the 2005 model year, I am sure that dealers will be more than willing to provide decent discounts on the 2004 model.

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CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

Welcome aboard, bv73ms3. According to the latest information that I have seen, if you were to lease a 2004 Infiniti G35 Sedan AWD through Infiniti Financial Services this month for 39 months with 10,000 miles per year, its base lease money factor and residual value should be .00165 and 59%, respectively. The numbers for an otherwise identical 42 month lease should be .00165 and 56%. The numbers for an otherwise identical 48 month lease should be .00170 and 52%.

I do not believe that Volvo is currently providing any sort of lease money factor support on the 2004.5 S40 T5 at this time. If this is the case and you were to lease one through Volvo finance, you would have to use its standard lease money factors. These vary, depending upon what part of the country you are in, but should be around .00320 for any length lease. Its 36 and 48 month, 10,000 miles per year residual values for this car are 54% and 45%, respectively. As you can see, this lease program is not very attractive. As a result, most consumers who lease this car do so through an independent bank. By doing so, they can take advantage of the $2,400 dealer cash that Volvo is providing on '04.5 S40 T5 models that are leased through banks other than Volvo Finance.

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CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

Thanks for the additional information, audi_buyer. OK, according to my calculations if you were to lease a 2004 Volkswagen Passat GLS 1.8T Sedan (MSRP: $26,150 / selling price: $23,601) through VW Credit this month for 3 years with 15,000 miles per, its zero down, pre-tax monthly lease payment should be right around $339 or so.

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CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

Holy Toledo, mzmarlo. You drive 43,000 miles per year. That is a heck of a lot of driving. The highest mileage allowance that most banks will lease vehicles with is 15,000 miles per year. Consumers do have the option to purchase additional miles on a per-mile basis when they negotiate their lease. The exact cost of each additional mile is set by the lending institution that you are leasing through and varies from bank to bank. It sounds to me as though it will be very expensive for you to lease a new vehicle. Of course, it will be expensive for you to put that many miles on a vehicle is you own it too. As you mentioned in your post, you can always lease a vehicle with 10,000, 12,000, or 15,000 miles per year and go way over your allotted mileage with the intention of purchasing your leased car or truck at the end of your term. If you do so, you will end up paying way more for your vehicle than it is worth on the open market, but this is an option. It all depends upon whether you want to pay for the high mileage that you drive now or later. If I was in your situation, I would probably look into purchasing an inexpensive, yet reliable vehicle, like a Honda Civic, to use as a commuter car and if I was so inclined purchase or lease something nicer or larger for use around town.

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CarMan@Edmunds · April 2004

You're very welcome, ch7656.

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nimajava · April 2004

I am looking to lease a 2004 TL auto w/navi or a 2004 v6 accord coupe with navi. Anybody have any idea what I should be paying?

mzmarlo · April 2004

Wow-what a GIANT reality check! I hate commuting-but never realized how much it effects everything! You all were awesome and saved me some heartache that would surely be waiting for me at the end of my 3 year term. Now I am motivated to really look for something closer to home-maybe work from home!
Thanks again!!

audi_buyer · April 2004

Car_man, I appreciate all your help... got one last question... what are the taxes on the lease, how do you caluclate that? and P.S. I live in Texas.. please help me figure the taxes out
Thanks again

jsevenseven · April 2004

Hey car man, you helped me out last year with an audi allroad lease. I wanted to know what the money factor and residual would be for a VW Passat GLS 1.8T, or Jetta GLS 1.8T. I am looking for 36 months and 10,000. Also for fun, what are the numbers for a Golf R32, same terms. Thanks.

buster6 · April 2004

Hi Car_Man,

Thanks for the help with the Es last week. I have a friend that needs you help now. The same car 3yr/45k on a Lexus ES but with out Nav this time.

Thanks again

siteexpert · April 2004

Car Man,

You recently posted that the lease rate on a g35x (36m/12k miles) was .00164. The dealer told me that rate is only for return infiniti financial customers and that the base rate for new customers is .0018 (which is equal to the prior months program). Is this true or are they padding some profit (they started at .0022 which they agreed was marked up b/f dropping to .0018). I am getting the car on VPP so the car is around $200 over invoice w/o negotation so it would not surprise me if the dealer is trying to not provide the best rate.

Thanks.

rich2121 · April 2004

I would like to know the hazards of trading in a lease car with 12 months left on the lease. I realize I probably would pay the difference. Should I keep the car or hope I can get a fair deal on it plus on a new car. My car is a 2000 300M with 35,000 miles, excellent condition. Next car I want to buy it.
thanks

multiplechoice · April 2004

I venture to guess that you would be upside down. Check with your lease company to see what the current payoff amount would be and see what the trade in value would be. Mopar products do not have a stellar history of strong resale value.

kryo · April 2004

I am looking for information about leasing a vehicle online. There appears to be some good (not great) deals on some vehicles. I've leased twice before, but always through the captive finance company directly at the dealership. After doing some research, these online "brokers" seem competitive. What should I be looking out for by going this route ?

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