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Comments
Thanks, Jack
If you are a back yard mechanic type a guy it should have no problem to installed it,and if you have a lot of tools in your garage because you are going to use an off the wall size of wrenches that the normal guy don't have in their garage.You need a 15/16 SAE and a big adjustable wrench. I did mine in three hours.. by myself. Also you gonna need a scissor jack as your helper since I'm the only guy in the family so thats the best helper I can get.Another thing if you have a Mud/splash Guard you need to remove the bottom bolt holding the front mud guard because it gonna be on your way ,by removing that bolt you can adjust the side bar easy. The instruction tells you everything...just read it over a couple of times and your're on it. I'm happy doing it by myself and the bottom line is I save a bunch on labor charge....Let me know if you decided to do it your self, I'll try to help you out.
Thanks in advance,
Jack
Steve
Host
Vans, SUVs, and Aftermarket & Accessories message boards
compare to the stock bulbs...so feel free to post !
dt77
http://fullspeed.to/ml
Thanks, Mat
The ordeers took less than a week and any e-mail to john at fosmo was returned quite promptly
ALSO ... would appreciate driver feedback, positive or negative.
Thank you!
JS6989@aol.com
Just read your post and would LOVE to know where you purchased your 2001 ML320 for $100 over invoice.
Please e-mail me at JS6989@aol.com.
Thank you for your time!
whiter ? same ?
dt77
I was playing with the motors again tonight, and the movement of the lights is amazing WRT the distance it moves. The really nice feature is if there is fog, we can aim the lamps all the way down so it aims at the very front of the ML. And if someone has their higbeams on , we can choose to aim our headlamps up, and if they still wont change their headlamps, then we can blast them with the actual highbeams.
One problem that is posed is the speed that the motors are moving at, I had a bit of a problem aiming the lamps after playing with them a bit. It works with the 12 V, but I'm not sure if I should lower the voltage with a resistor to slow the motor down. Can Anyone help?
Also, I am going to use a DPDT switch to control the headlamp movement up and down. Omar suggested to me in an email that the motor may burnout if there is too little torque on the motor by under voltage or if the motor gets stuck. So to remedy this, I am going to install a kill switch AND a relay so the motors will only work when the headlamps are on, this will prevent any power going to the motors. I will place the switchs in a small black box, and mount under the middle console so they cant be seen but still accessed. I dont use this little cubby hole anyway and my ash tray is filled up with the V1 Remote Audio control.
I'm currently working on the city lamps as well, as I plan to get rid of the side (corner) markers and replace them with the city lights that are situated in the highbeam compartment.
I know I havent had much time to email people back (work beckons) but if you have any suggestions, advice or tips please email me or post here.
I hope to get my web page revamped, but I have a feeling that that wont happen till the summer because of my CFA test. But I'll keep pleanty of notes and pictures so when I do I'll be able to share.
Robert
amg@exconde.com
dt77
a specs section and a guestbook
dt77
http://fullspeed.to/ml
ML 320 W/m1, m2, heated seats, bose sun roof and nav system. 42K
ML 430 w/bose, sun roof & m3. 46K
According to Edmunds they both appear to be fair deals. I'm interested in the wooden steering wheel, price $800.00. Does any have price info on the MCS integrated telephone.
Any feedback will be appreciated
Thanks
I'm not sure how much it is worth it to install the sensor, I'd like too, but it may be more trouble than it is worth. The dealer doesnt even have part numbers for the Auto level sensors for the ML
PUMA accessories does have the Autolevel for the E-class but I'm not sure it will fit. I'm worried that they changed it fr the ML. Even the sunroof motor for betweent he two cars are different. The E-class motor moves much faster than that of the ML.
I was thinking about installing the headlamp washer system from the BMW since it may be easier because of the flush mount, rather than having something pop out of the bumper.
Robert
amg@exconde.com
Also, has anyone found a phone that will work with the MCS system without spending over $1,200?
Thanks again, Jack
Anyway, I signed a contract and put down a $1000 deposit. The other day I got a call from the dealer saying that Mercedes basically stopped building 2001's, and was just selling off their inventory. He was looking to trade with another dealer, but couldn't find one properly equiped. They all have both M1 & M2, Bose and no sky view roof. The deal original was for $371 over invoice, but now no car. Anyone have any suggestions?
Sorry to hear about all the mess.
Could it be that your dealer got cold feet and wants out of the contract?
I guess you can judge his honesty by looking at what kind of remedy they offer. If they want to sell you another vehicle for more $ over invoice, you are being taken, if they honestly try to locate another car (but how would you ever know?), they seem to be serious about correcting the problem.
Why don't you pick three or four dealers in the closer vicinity and ask for just the truck you had specified? If there is one, your initial dealer has a way out...
As to legal leverage, I could imagine that the signed contract puts them on the spot.
Tarik
dt77
http://fullspeed.to/ml
Although not always up to date you will at least be able to start a more thorough search than a dealer may be willing to do for $371.
Follow that with direct contact to dealer and try to find a match to your deal.
Always negotiate via ax offer including taxing your order contract to the dealer chosen.
You can conclude this transaction over the phone with a credit card deposit.
Then get on a plane and pick up your MB ML.
Good luck!
Mine does this occasionally as well. The right side one has no problems.
I adjust mine by leaning my head against the window and adjusting it so I can just see the side of the ML. This position is a bit unusual, so I'm wondering if this has something to do with it.
Although not always up to date you will at least be able to start a more thorough search than a dealer may be willing to do for $371.
Follow that with direct contact to dealer and try to find a match to your deal.
Always negotiate via ax offer including taxing your order contract to the dealer chosen.
You can conclude this transaction over the phone with a credit card deposit.
Then get on a plane and pick up your MB ML.
Good luck!
I've been a regular reader of these messages and have kept up for the past couple months reading about the variations in 98-99/00/01 phone setups and thought I had it all figured out until I opened up my ML and was pretty confused. I'd appreciate any help anyone could do to shed some light on my situation.
My car is a 03/00 build '00 ML320, M1 + Bose. No Nav or Startac installed. I currently have an Ericsson T28 with Cingular wireless and want to install the HCA-10 handsfree car kit. I have installed the '00/'01 GPS/Cell antenna on the roof.
Since mine's a '00, I thought I should have a splitter behind the MCS with a connector (as per Omar's message #1675 in Edmunds' M-Class forum) and was planning to tap into it to feed the antenna.
Today I removed the MCS and lo and behold - no splitter. I found the antenna wire plugged into the MCS and traced it down to the floor. I also found a male RJ45 connector that seemed to be associtated with the antenna. I took the console apart and found what appears to be the elusive SAP connector for the phone (serrated edge, about 1 cm in diameter, male) along with a female RJ45 plug. In reading Omar's post regarding his '99ML (http://www.escribe.com/automotive/european/mbmc/m8171.html) this seems like a '99 setup to me.
My questions are:
1) Is this the cell antenna from the roof I found in the glovebox? If so, can I directly tap into it with my Ericsson kit to receive the signal or do I need a splitter to separate the GPS frequency from the cell inside the console? I'm not worried about the Nav system at the moment.
2) Are my impressions of a '00ML correct in that I *should* have a splitter behind the MCS. I looked everywhere but couldn't find it. From the previous posts it sounds like it should be pretty obvious.
3) What is the RJ45 connector for? I'm assuming it's the data cable for the Startac to the MCS.
4) If I need the splitter, anyone know how much it is? Wolfgang quoted $400 but I'm a little unclear on his quote (http://www.whnet.com/4x4/phone-install.html)
Many thanks in advance.
Alan
* Side air curtains
* Front and Rear Parktronic
* BiXenon lights with Washers - Fogs in bumper
* 83 Liter (22 Gallon) Fuel tank 93 Liter (25 Gallon) on ML55.
* New center console with dual storage compartments
* ESP - Electronic Brake Proportioning
* SMART key
* ALS - Automatic Lighting System - turns lights on in tunnels - and when wipers are on.
* Auto up and down windows
* Side view mirror adjusts down when going in reverse.
* ML500
* More Chrome trim (Chrome Grill, exterior handle accents)
* New front rear bumpers
I have a hard time believing they added the next gen ESP system. Also, where did they get the space to boost the gas tank size?
It sounds like the Sport pkg is standard.
Sorry!
The SPELL CHECK FEATURE CHANGED THE SPELLING FROM EBP TO ESP
"Electronic Brake Force Distribution : Standard Electronic Brake Force Distribution shifts additional brake force to the rear wheels in straight-line braking, to promote more even brake-pad wear. For stability in curves, a normal front/rear split is restored"
dt77
http://fullspeed.to/ml
BTW, yes, looks like the Silvervision bulbs will work, IIRC. Verify this in your owner's manual...it's definitely in there.