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Comments
Thanks.
Rennman
highway driving. Usually, the way this was designed at least for the 2004,
they typically recommend that the rotors also be replaced. If yours was '
certified, on the certified check-out sheet that should show whether the
brakes were replaced as part of that. If your front or rear brakes had more than 50% of the lining left, that applicable front or rear or both may not have been replaced as part of certification process, Brake job with rotors runs $ 500
if someone other than dealer maybe $ 650 if dealer.
If you are in a Northern climate, this Mercedes is great in snow. A couple
of weeks back, when there were some other vehicles that were abandoned
in the road in our sub-division because of a freezing rain/ice storm, the
Mercedes managed OK driving at slow speeds on one and one half inch
thick ice, although you still can slide off if you're going too fast when you
brake.
A month later, same problem. Got back in and drove home without incident.
Because of the transitory sense of this, after the first incident my guess was that
the computer was zapped by a microwave, and then regained its stability.
This second episode says it is something else (although the problems happend within a half mile of each other).
Of course, there is always the obvious, was you gas cap screwed on tightly? Is the location close to your gas station. Did you just gas up both times before this happened. Don't overlook the easy possible causes, that's where the solutions can usually be found.
They replaced two motor mounts. This fixed an early problem with a "crunk" sound when just starting of the line, and it fixed the erractic shifting and loss of power. It also turned off the check engine light.
Ideas? Suggestions? What should we expect them to do?
Thanks,
Raymond
Is the a/c on these usually good? Is there a relatively simple fix (yeah, I know, check freon or whatever it is this uses....anything other than that?).
I spent a bunch on my 300D's a/c to get it to cool and it never really did the trick. Don't know whether to suck it up or expect better.
Any ideas would be appreciated.
Thanks, Raymond
tidester, host
SUVs and Smart Shopper
much of the summer. I found the ML AC to be okay but substandard compared
to our 10 year older Lexus LS400, which could freeze your arm off... or something else for that matter.
Not sure if our truck is typical, but I get a pittance of cooling when the
right hand diverter dial is set on anything but the 9 O'Clock position (blows
everything through the dash vents). My hunch is the diverter flaps are
ineffective except in that position.
:confuse:
Klappekiste
i tried to get a replacement key from a dealer here in Maryland but they refused to cut the key becauce it is no longer registered in this country.I showed the registration for my country but it was refused.
My problem is that it is so difficult to cut the key in my country even from a dealer. How can i get a replacement key. I cannot start the truck now if l go home to my country. The keys start the engine but will not run.
I have the same problem with you..I quite often experienced my car engine just die without a reason when running in a normal speed.I pulled over and start the engine and it start right up and everything normal. ut after a few weeks, I cannot start my engne. It start and die right away, i tried a few times but same thing. I changed the crankshaft sensor and everything went great.. But after 3days, it happened again, but this time after the engine stop when im driving normally at night, engine died suddenly again..I start the engine and it start again, but it shaked heavily and it wont move eventhough i step on the gas, but it suddenly move again but power is extremely low...a second it moves, another second it stalls without reactions.. It got worse when i turn on the air condition, the RPM weakened..I managed to get home safely witth my car stall a while oftely. when i reached home, I stepped on the gas rythmly on and on, it went back to normal without any issues..
Im quite fed up and pissed off..Wondering what more to change....
1. Have changed fuel pump, air filter,fuel filter, spark plugs, cleaned throttle valve/body 3mths ago.
2. changed air mass sensor and crank shaft sensor
ANYBODY HAVE THIS KIND OF PROBLEM can help me solve it? I happened since I have a dead battery 1mth ago..The sudden engine dies happened evey night time..ehwn the lights and aircondition are on. Is it have to do with electrical parts or sensors..??? Please anybody help me..............!!!
I have a '01 ML320 with 198k miles on it. I predict 200k after the holidays. Only issue I had were the transmission and power steering leaks at 180k. Replaced two brake switch during the life of the vehicle. DIY crankshaft positioning sensor thanks to this forum.
Standard maintenance as usual. Oil change DIY every 9k to keep it running strong. MPG still at 20 as brand new.
I'd buy another ML after this runs to the ground.
Any advice on this vehicle - reliability? gas consumption?
Would appreciate anyone's thoughts
Gas mileage. Only about 18 on the highway, maybe 14 in town. Requires premium.
I'm new to all of this.... and I need help trying to decide what to do. I am pondering about buying a 2005 ML350. It has 39,000 and seems to b in good condition. This will be my first mercedes! So, I'm a little excited... Based on all of your knowledge about ML350... Do you think this is a good purchase?? What problems do these trucks usually have??
Thanks in advance!!
does anyone have an idea of what miht be the source of the problem?
The second variation was being able to move the shift lever but the transmission at first would not engage in any direction. This too at low temperatures in the teens F.
No fix, as this problem went away by leaving it in DRIVE and waiting a couple of minutes. We live in a mild climate so it never happened again.
This was a real love-hate truck for us. Eventually, at 150K miles, hate won out and we sold it. Way, way too much went wrong. We could not trust the local dealer service department as they had one mode of operation : maximum charges
for minimal work. :mad:
thanks
would you please send me a copy on oil usage and the related info incase if I need my engine to be rebuilt by MBZ.( your reply above)
my 2000 ml320 - I found window switch need to be replaced as per the mechanic. now. Few months ago we changed the starter. It didn't start in the parking lot. Any clues or useful info on these repairs. I appreciate your reply.
Vijay
The first is that when the truck is idle, like at a stop sign or red light, the engine jumps a little, the rpm is at about 500 nd seems like the car wants to just turn off..
The second problem is that on turns I hear a clicking sound if I press the accelerator while turning..
When I had a diagnostic machine put on it, I was told I had to replace the stop lamp swiotch or switches and to replace the transfer case...does that seem right? And what are the approximate costs to these repairs...I live in nyc
Thankss
my car has the same problem and a mecanic told me that I need to replace the fuel pump, because is geting bad and at some point the car won be able to start any more until I replace the part. Also he show me how to replace it and is easy.
The water in the reservoir starts to boil and immediately reduces to almost zero. The temp is only maintained at 100 degrees at a speed of 80-mph after which it just starts to rise to the red zone.
This is really concerning for me as i can no longer take a road trip cos of the fear of what might happen.
What can i do?
can you share the found with us ?
what was replaced ?
Thanks
In response to your timing chain, I believe that there was a recall for those timing chains, so check with the dealer to see if there was a recal. I remember mine making a hole for some reson in the cover, and when I took it to the dealer, I am pretty sure they replaced it for free. The car was no longer under waranty, but it has been about 6 years. So, that is why it is hard for me to remember exectlly. But timing chains usually last forever, unlike the timing belts, I have a Toyota Tundra with 200k miles, and it is still running with the original timing belt that is ruber and can crack or strech, but metal chain, why would you have to replace it? Did the mechanic at the dealer showed you the condition of the timing chain? And were they going to charge you? Good Luck.
TTS