Why don't you take a look at Mazda Protege Problems (Topic #1363). You might find some helpful information in the previous posts, but if not that is the perfect place to ask your question.
Just click on that highlighted link to go directly there.
Pat Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
I have had decent luck with previous VWs, my 1984 GTi being absolutely fun and reliable. I leased a '90 Tracker, which was also very reliable and traded that in for my 1993 Jetta. During the 24 mo. free service period, So. County VW in HB (CA) replaced both taillight [non-permissible content removed]'ys and trunk stops (trunk knocked holes in lenses) per service memo. Oil usage was above average. Then oxygen sensor wire was contaminated w/oil (a charge svc). Oil usage going up. Eventually dealer informs me that Puebla, Mexico plant forget one of the rings in cyl. 3. (no charge repair) Since then - 2 sets of spark plug wires ($100+ per + $80 labor per) - sunroof rail broke, (3rd one I know of-my first) which would cost $600 - Tailight lenses with holes from trunk (again) - dlr doesn't remember fixing. (Cost - $2 tube of silicone and $86 fix-it ticket) A/C out - Clutch replaced (no harsh use-65k miles) 2 sets of rotors (dlr told me that was common because of metallic pads--right! Bendix pads are friendly to rotors and cleaner) Horn/blinkers/alarm don't work (fuse block probably-2nd one I know of-my first) Fan switch gets hot (Cost $230 if I fix it) These do not include regular maintenance items nor some of the other forgotten repairs. Could I avoid this by a)not buying a 1st year model - b)avoiding VWs built in Mexico and staying with German models (GTI) - c)staying away from VW dealers for service or d)staying away from VWs?
I am taking a car to Florida and will be leaving it there. What do I need to do to leave the car for a period of 6 months? I can keep the car in a garage but will not be there to start it or drive it for a good 6 or more months. Thanks for your input.
You will want to add a fuel additive. If fuel sits for long enough it goes bad. Add the additive the last time you fill the tank before you park the car. Also let it run long enough to get the fuel with the additive to the engine Prob at least 15 min. If your parking the car indoors throw some moth balls in it and crack the windows alittle. Disconect the battery! Dont forget to kiss it good bye it will miss ya Hahaha. When you go to pick it back up check the oil, connect the battery and let the engine run for about 10 min before you drive it. Get rid of those nasty moth balls too
Sadly, I discovered Edmunds too late. We own a 1996 Eagle Vision ESI. We LOVE the styling and the way the car handles. Unfortunately, in the two years we've owned it (we bought it used from a local Eagle dealer), it seems to have had one problem after another. We maintain our vehicles diligently. Now that I've read others' problems (the same as we are experiencing), I'm wondering why Eagle hasn't put out a recall on some of this stuff (replaced all the O2 sensors, replaced water pump, now transmi$$ion, etc., etc., etc.). Anyway, my question is related to the transmission (that went out just this morning). It was stuck in second gear. Is it better for us to replace the transmission or just rebuild it (if possible)? I should mention we will be discussing the possibility of just trading it in after the repair, for a new (non-Eagle) vehicle. Will a rebuilt transmission lesson the trade-in value? And IF (big if here) IF we decide to keep the car, are rebuilt transmissions as reliable? We are getting tired of sinking more and more money into a vehicle we've owned just two years, but maintaining it is important to us. Thanks in advance for any opinions. It is such a shame as we really do like the car.
We just purchased a 1987 Cadillac Coupe and the Coulant Fan Temp light just came on on the dash, could someone tell us how serious this could be? We have an appointment with Cadillac on Monday the 14. Thanks for any help.
I took my Cherokee in to the dealer last week because I received an airbag recall notice and I had a lot of warranty work to be done (oil leaking onto the engine, nosies coming from rear wheel, freon leak, etc). When the service rep asked if I wanted the 30,000 mile service, I asked how much it cost -- he replied that it was about $100 (cant remember the exact amount) and I said ok. I also authorized a brake job.
Three days later the service rep told me that not all the warranty work was done -- they'd been waiting two days for a part that might not come in for another week. Since I was renting a car, I decided to pick the car up. The rep told me the bill for the brake job was $189.00. He didnt mention any other charges and I figured they hadn't done the 30,000 mile service.
Imagine my surprise when I picked it up and the total bill was $621.00!! I was charged $432.00 for the 30,000 mile service. I had just had an oil change 400 miles ago (synthetic oil) and had the transmission serviced less than 5,000 miles ago but I was charged $128.00 for the oil filter/plug and $167.00 for oil (not synthetic), transmission fluid and freon.
And, although the service rep told me I needed new tires badly and I told him I was going to get them as soon as I picked the car up., I was charged $73.00 for balance and alignment. My protests about paying unnecessary parts/work did no good.
When ever you have work done at a shop,there is a spot on the invoice that you sign,that is for the estimate.Make them quote an estimate, and there should also be a place to check for contacting you before going over that amount.Make them fill it out correctly and get a copy.That will save you some headaches. Since you did not authorize the balance and alignment,don't pay for it.If they press the issue,speak to the manager and tell them that you did not authorize that work and if they want to press the issue,you will seek legal assistance. Always get a quote and keep the copy.Remember to protect yourself and assume the worse,no one else is going to protect you,unfortunately.
Thanks for your reply to my question about the charges for unnecessary work done on my Jeep Cherokee. I had already turned in my rental car and, by the time I learned about my Jeep's bill, the rental agency had closed (and the dealership was about to close). I was getting nowhere in disputing the unnecessary work/parts, so I charged the entire $621.00 to a credit card.
I signed nothing when I left my Jeep for the airbag recall, warranty work and brake job. I didnt realize that this is a common situation. Did I just get an expensive education or will lodging a complaint with Crysler do any good?
Thanks for the advise about the fuel additive , is there a specific brand I should look for? As for the mothballs I guess I'll know my car was in storage! I have been told that I need to disconnect the battery but someone else told me I will ruin my tires if the car isn't moved every 2 -3 weeks. If so, then I need to get somebody to drive the car every once in a while and all the rest (disconnecting the battery, fuel additive, mothballs, etc.) seems unnecessary. Can I leave it for 6 months without moving the car? Thanks
sidell; unfortuantely,you probably learned an expensive lesson.But i would contact the manager at the dealer and explain that you did NOT ask for all of the work and don't think you should have had to pay for all of the work. Be firm,but polite,do not lose your cool,explain that you feel that you were charged for services that you did not authorize and have considered contacting the Better business bureau,Chrysler and legal assistance,but would prefer not to. Then contact Chyrsler's customer service and make a complaint.
sbgat23; 6 months is too long to leave the vehicle with out starting the engine and running it.If the vehicle is stared in a building, the tires may not be a problem,but it would be a good idea to take the weight off the tires.Then have someone go and start the engine once a month.
I'll be going off to college this fall and need to put my Mitsubishi Mirage in a sort of semi-storage. The car has been driven between 10 and 30 miles a day, everyday since new. The car will be driven about once a month, either by me, or my parents, and stored in a non-climate controlled garage in my home state of Minnesota. The car has had a recent oil change. Long term storage procedures are not an option because I will need the car every two months for breaks. Any advice? Thanks
I own a 1995 Altima GXE with 43,000 miles on it. The car runs great, but recently i have noticed a strange noise every time i hit the gas pedal, primarily at low speeds. It tends to make a grinding, rattling noise, sounding almost as if something is scraping the ground, but I am pretty sure that's not the case. My brother tells me he thinks it might be the CVE joint or something. Has anyone else had this problem? Any advise would be appreciated. Thanks
Check the catalytic converter heat shield(s). They come loose pretty regularly due to the extreme heat they are subjected to and then they rattle. There are sometimes two, one top and one bottom, so be sure to check them both.
With any car, when you open the car doors (any door) or press the unlock button on the key FOB, the interior lights will come on. Recently, I noticed that in my 2000 Impala, if I parked the car for extended period, like overnight, and opened a door (any door) in the morning, the lights will not come on. If I wait for a minute or two, with the door open, the lights will suddenly turn on by themselves. What is strange is that even if I intentionally switch on the lights, by pressing the switchs on the rear view mirror or through the head light switch, the lights will still stay off. There seems to be a time delay before they decide to turn on. Sometimes, this phenomenon also occurred in daytime, when I parked the car in for a few hours. I noticed that it tends to happen when the weather is cool, like low 70's. When the weather is warm, usually, there is no problem.
Does anyone has any idea what is going on? Some kind of control module malfunction???
I own a 1999 Chrysler Concorde LXi. It is a very nice looking, and nice driving car, despite a few minor bugs (power window problems, smelly AC..)
I have been noticing a vibration in my steering wheel at highway speeds. I thought the tires might be out of balance so I got them balanced, and that took care of the problem. However, only a week or two later, the vibration started again! So I went back and got another balance, even tried different places, but the same thing keeps happening.
Either the wheels have never been balanced right, or they keep falling out of balance really quickly for some reason. Has anybody else had similar problems? What's the secret?
i have an 1995 oldsmobile acheiva i need to find where the thermostate is located exactly also where can i find a diagram of the wiring for my car it is a 4 cylinder 2.3 liter 4 door sedan s series
Anyone have 94 Dodge Dakota electrical schematics which they can post or email me? I have an electrical problem which involves the power windows, blower switch, and air bag sensor system. I recently purchased a Chilton's manual for the truck, but it appears to only cover the schematics for a basic truck and not one which has all the bells and whistles. Other brands of manuals are of no help either. Thanks.
Also, the Topic Search feature on the left side of the page is a great tool. Try using it to find other topics of interest in this conference, before you start up a new topic. Okay? Good luck. ;-)
Would like some input from current MB and Cadillac STS owners. Going to purchase one of these cars within the next few days. E 320 and 430 will be the competing models. Thank you in advance for your comments
I just changed the oil on my avalon. It was unavoidable to spill oil all over the mounts etc. while trying to remove the oil filter. The problem is that it has a very long screw... it seems to take a lot of spins to get the filter off and especially from the time the oil starts dripping out as you break the seal, until the time it actually comes off. On my '93 Corolla, there was enough clearance to let the filter drop into the "oil eater" box. Not so with this car. Maybe they expected buyers of Avalons wouldn't change their own oil. Any suggestions?
You may get some suggestions here, but you might also find some assistance from other owners in the active Avalon topic in our Sedans conference. (The Topic Search feature on the left side of the page is an easy way to find it.)
I have a 1991 nissan sentra with 300,000 Kms and it runs great. The only thing I have had to do to it is maintenance and oil changes until now . I hear a growl in the front end I have ruled out a problem with the transmission and I am trying to see if I can narrow it down to either Wheel bearings or something in the steering box. When I turn left the noise is there when I turn right the noise disappears which makes me think it is a steering problem . Can anyone help? thanks Steve
I'm desperately hoping that knowledgeable, helpful readers can overcome listless, unmotivated mechanics! For two years, my '92 325i (manual transmission) has had a persistent problem at initial acceleration. It stumbles ("stutters" would be an accurate word for the experience) substantially before it finally "catches" and is able to move forward smoothly. To "feel" it in the car strongly suggests fuel starvation. However, it only occurs in first gear upon initial throttle. Small backfires often occur, as well. To date, replacements have included fuel filters (2), plugs, plug wires, coil, e-prom, air filters, as well as the use of fuel system cleaners. Nothing has solved the problem for more than a few days, at best. More than a few times I've been met with the "cannot duplicate problem" routine. Apart from this, the engine runs smoothly and seems to have full power. When I've tried to talk to service personnel about the fuel delivery system, I've gotten nowehere. Any thoughts, ideas? Help!!
But,there is a possibility that the Throttle position sensor has a worn spot in it giving you the hesitation,just a thought. Also,there is a BMW specific site for technical info,it is http://www.bimmer.org/ They might be able to give you a little more insight.Also,look thru this site and I thought I saw a topic on it.Use the search and you should be able to find it.
My son pulled down one of the rear wipers on my 93 wagon and snapped or disconnected something. Only one rear wiper works now. I am going to attempt to fix it. Does anyone know what I have to remove to get access to the problem? I assume I have to start by taking off the inner back panel of the back hatch. Without knowing the inner workings of the wipers, I figure he either disengaged or snapped something.
The fuel starvation/acceleration problem you describe for your BMW sounds like exactly the same thing I have been experiencing with my '99 Honda Civic Si. I haven't made any attempt to fix the problem. Just been putting up with it. I would like some ideas, too. before I start chasing down the cause. Anyone mechanically inclined have any suggestions for us?
I am considering a 2000 cadillac sls. Soes anyone know about gas mileage, cost of maintenance repairs and reliabilty of this car. I must know by Wed. Sept.27. Thank you
Are you looking at the SLS trim line of the Seville? That's the only "sls" I can find.
In any case, your best bet would be to look in the Cadillac topics in our Sedans conference. You can do a Topic Search (on the left side of the page) for the model name, and then check out whatever active topics are already underway.
If it is the Seville you are looking at it, you can click on this link to go to this topic in Sedans:
I encountered a familiar problem with my '97 Buick Riviera. Recently I had to put on a new set of brake rotors (front) on my car with 31,000 miles on it. Originally, I had just the rotors turned, you know basic maintanence stuff. Less than a week later the car emitted an awful crunching sound when the brakes were applied.
The dealer said that there was nothing they could do other than put on a new set of brake pads (the old ones were in good shape according the service department) and a new set of front rotors.
I had this same problem with my old '94 Buick Regal GS. From what I've read on other posts GM cars are plagued with lousy rotors. from Sevilles to Intrigues, Regals, Grand Prixs, etc. What gives? Is this typical of all GM products or just a few models? This is really puzzling but I think I might get rid of the Riv now while the rotors are good (from previous experience the life of GM rotors are about 8 to 15K.
I HAE A 91 MERCURY TOPAZ. I HAVE CHANGED THE 3 MOUNTS-1 ENGINE, 1ENGINE/TRAN., 1 TRAN., NOW THE ENTIRE CAR VIBRATES. I BOUGHT THE MOUNTS FROM FORD. WHEN THE CAR IS STARTED THE STEERING WHEEL JERKS FOR 3 OR 4 TIMES THEN VIBRATES.AS LONG AS THE CAR IS STARTED THE ENTIRE CAR VIBRATES. ALSO AFTER THE CAR HAS STARTED FOR ABOUT 15 MINS. THE RIGHT FENDER GETS VERY HOT.TWO MECHANICS HAS CHANGED THE MOUNTS AND THE PROBLEM IS STILL THERE. BOTH MECHANICS AND FORD SAID THE MOUNTS ARE GOOD.
When you turn left, weight transfer loads the right front wheel bearing and unloads the left, and vice versa. A loaded wheel bearing will tend to become more noisy, while an unloaded one usually quietens down. The right front wheel bearing is probably pooched. Easy to diagnose with the front wheels off the ground. First, check the wheel bearings for play. Then run the engine with the trans in gear (outer ends of control arms supported so as not to damage outer C.V. joints), and use an automotive stethescope or long screwdriver against your ear to listen to each side for the noise.
I have owned nothing but GM cars and trucks and have never replaced a brake rotor. Granted after 30 - 40K miles I got some "surging" when applying the brakes, so I'd have them turned and put on new pads. My Chevy van has over 100K and I never did turn the rotors, just replaced the pads. My '94 Olds cutlass Supreme is doing fine.
I have read of late model Ford trucks and Chevy/GM trucks and sub/tahoes having front rotor problems, and I've been told it is the quality of material being used.?
My 2000 Yukon Denali makes a single thump sound on acceleration from a dead stop. Seems to come from the rear end, as if the spare tire under the rear were loose and hitting against the underbody (this is not the case, but that's the sound, a consistent bump on acceleration from dead stop). GM dealer seemed stumped, called GM and they said it's normal). Anyone else have this problem?
Print it out and take it to your dealer,then tell them that the next time you have to do the diagnostics and technical research for them,you want to do a chargeback.
haven't ever changed one so i was wondering how much is it involved. i called a shop and they said it would take two hours start to finish. is it that involved? has anyone channged one and is there anything else to take off besides the hoses and the plastic box under the glove box? any tips would be appreciated. also they said get motorcraft core which is about three times the no name?
Hi, has anyone had gear shift locking problems? My 1991 Volvo 240DL's gear shift locks sometimes. Took it to a dealer's repair dept and they replaced the solenoid, but it locked again shortly after that. They said that some other component?? wasn't replaced properly by their dept and they corrected it, but it locked again 2X b4 I could get it back to them. Now they can't seem 2 find a problem. Said it needs to lock or b locked when they get it, but of course I can't bring it 2 them in that condition. Does anyone know what could b causing this? Or know any diagnostics that can b done to determine what is the problem. Ty = }
johnt9, 2 hrs,is it that invovled?Look at your dash and decide,really look at it.Yes,it is that invoved,there are about 10 little bolts that hold the outer plastic housing on,once you get that off,heh heh,then you have to get it out from under the dash,also,the heater control cable has to be disconnected.Then you have to take the 2 heater hoses loose(good luck) and pull the heater core out and install the new one and put it all back together.Sounds easy huh?After you've torn up your hands under there trying to disconnect and connect things,you'll understand.And the F series truck heater core is one of the easier ones.
rae08512, The solenoid is controlled by the brake light switch,if you lose power to it or it doesn't activate the brake lights,it won't activate the solenoid.Have they been checking power to the brake light switch?
Ok,here's how the system works.The solenoid locks the shift mechanism,when you turn the key on and step on the brake pedal,the solenoid retracts and releases the shift mechanism.Power feeds thru the brake pedal switch to the solenoid.So,if you have power to the solenoid and a good ground to it,then the solenoid is bad.Here is a URL of a foreign forum,wire or Paul know more about that system and should be able to square you away.
Comments
Just click on that highlighted link to go directly there.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
During the 24 mo. free service period, So. County VW in HB (CA) replaced both taillight [non-permissible content removed]'ys and trunk stops (trunk knocked holes in lenses) per service memo. Oil usage was above average. Then oxygen sensor wire was contaminated w/oil (a charge svc). Oil usage going up. Eventually dealer informs me that Puebla, Mexico plant forget one of the rings in cyl. 3. (no charge repair)
Since then - 2 sets of spark plug wires ($100+ per + $80 labor per) - sunroof rail broke, (3rd one I know of-my first) which would cost $600 - Tailight lenses with holes from trunk (again) - dlr doesn't remember fixing. (Cost - $2 tube of silicone and $86 fix-it ticket) A/C out - Clutch replaced (no harsh use-65k miles) 2 sets of rotors (dlr told me that was common because of metallic pads--right! Bendix pads are friendly to rotors and cleaner) Horn/blinkers/alarm don't work (fuse block probably-2nd one I know of-my first) Fan switch gets hot (Cost $230 if I fix it) These do not include regular maintenance items nor some of the other forgotten repairs. Could I avoid this by a)not buying a 1st year model - b)avoiding VWs built in Mexico and staying with German models (GTI) - c)staying away from VW dealers for service or d)staying away from VWs?
Thanks for your input.
Three days later the service rep told me that not all the warranty work was done -- they'd been waiting two days for a part that might not come in for another week. Since I was renting a car, I decided to pick the car up. The rep told me the bill for the brake job was $189.00. He didnt mention any other charges and I figured they hadn't done the 30,000 mile service.
Imagine my surprise when I picked it up and the total bill was $621.00!! I was charged $432.00 for the 30,000 mile service. I had just had an oil change 400 miles ago (synthetic oil) and had the transmission serviced less than 5,000 miles ago but I was charged $128.00 for the oil filter/plug and $167.00 for oil (not synthetic), transmission fluid and freon.
And, although the service rep told me I needed new tires badly and I told him I was going to get them as soon as I picked the car up., I was charged $73.00 for balance and alignment. My protests about paying unnecessary parts/work did no good.
Since you did not authorize the balance and alignment,don't pay for it.If they press the issue,speak to the manager and tell them that you did not authorize that work and if they want to press the issue,you will seek legal assistance.
Always get a quote and keep the copy.Remember to protect yourself and assume the worse,no one else is going to protect you,unfortunately.
I signed nothing when I left my Jeep for the airbag recall, warranty work and brake job. I didnt realize that this is a common situation. Did I just get an expensive education or will lodging a complaint with Crysler do any good?
Thanks again.
Thanks
unfortuantely,you probably learned an expensive lesson.But i would contact the manager at the dealer and explain that you did NOT ask for all of the work and don't think you should have had to pay for all of the work. Be firm,but polite,do not lose your cool,explain that you feel that you were charged for services that you did not authorize and have considered contacting the Better business bureau,Chrysler and legal assistance,but would prefer not to. Then contact Chyrsler's customer service and make a complaint.
sbgat23;
6 months is too long to leave the vehicle with out starting the engine and running it.If the vehicle is stared in a building, the tires may not be a problem,but it would be a good idea to take the weight off the tires.Then have someone go and start the engine once a month.
Schaffs
The car runs great, but recently i have noticed a
strange noise every time i hit the gas pedal,
primarily at low speeds. It tends to make a
grinding, rattling noise, sounding almost as if
something is scraping the ground, but I am pretty
sure that's not the case. My brother tells me he
thinks it might be the CVE joint or something. Has
anyone else had this problem? Any advise would be
appreciated.
Thanks
Bruce
Sometimes, this phenomenon also occurred in daytime, when I parked the car in for a few hours. I noticed that it tends to happen when the weather is cool, like low 70's. When the weather is warm, usually, there is no problem.
Does anyone has any idea what is going on? Some kind of control module malfunction???
Dennis
I have been noticing a vibration in my steering
wheel at highway speeds. I thought the tires might be out of balance so I got them balanced, and that took care of the problem. However, only a week or two later, the vibration started again! So I went back and got another balance, even tried different places, but the same thing keeps happening.
Either the wheels have never been balanced right,
or they keep falling out of balance really quickly
for some reason. Has anybody else had similar
problems? What's the secret?
Thanks!
tony
bucky4@helicon.net
Also, the Topic Search feature on the left side of the page is a great tool. Try using it to find other topics of interest in this conference, before you start up a new topic. Okay? Good luck. ;-)
Pocahontas,
Town Hall Roving Host
STS owners. Going to purchase one of these cars
within the next few days. E 320 and 430 will be the competing models. Thank you in advance for
your comments
On my '93 Corolla, there was enough clearance to let the filter drop into the "oil eater" box. Not so with this car. Maybe they expected buyers of Avalons wouldn't change their own oil. Any suggestions?
You can use the Topic Search feature on the left side of the page to find discussions already underway on the vehicles that you are interested in.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Or you might want to drop by Ask Edmunds.com's Online Service Advisor (Topic #1548) here in this conference to see whether Neil Chirico has any ideas on this.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
I hear a growl in the front end I have ruled out a problem with the transmission and I am trying to see if I can narrow it down to either Wheel bearings or something in the steering box. When I turn left the noise is there when I turn right the noise disappears which makes me think it is a steering problem . Can anyone help? thanks Steve
Also,there is a BMW specific site for technical info,it is http://www.bimmer.org/
They might be able to give you a little more insight.Also,look thru this site and I thought I saw a topic on it.Use the search and you should be able to find it.
wagon and snapped or disconnected something. Only
one rear wiper works now. I am going to attempt to
fix it. Does anyone know what I have to remove to
get access to the problem? I assume I have to start
by taking off the inner back panel of the back
hatch. Without knowing the inner workings of the
wipers, I figure he either disengaged or snapped
something.
Are you looking at the SLS trim line of the Seville? That's the only "sls" I can find.
In any case, your best bet would be to look in the Cadillac topics in our Sedans conference. You can do a Topic Search (on the left side of the page) for the model name, and then check out whatever active topics are already underway.
If it is the Seville you are looking at it, you can click on this link to go to this topic in Sedans:
Cadillac Seville (Topic #3472)
Good luck!
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
The dealer said that there was nothing they could do other than put on a new set of brake pads (the old ones were in good shape according the service department) and a new set of front rotors.
I had this same problem with my old '94 Buick Regal GS. From what I've read on other posts GM cars are plagued with lousy rotors. from Sevilles to Intrigues, Regals, Grand Prixs, etc. What gives? Is this typical of all GM products or just a few models? This is really puzzling but I think I might get rid of the Riv now while the rotors are good (from previous experience the life of GM rotors are about 8 to 15K.
My '94 Olds cutlass Supreme is doing fine.
I have read of late model Ford trucks and Chevy/GM trucks and sub/tahoes having front rotor problems, and I've been told it is the quality of material being used.?
Anyone else have this problem?
For future reference, the best way to find something here in Town Hall is to use the Topic Search feature on the left side of the page.
Good luck.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
My 1991 Volvo 240DL's gear shift locks sometimes. Took it to a dealer's repair dept and they replaced the solenoid, but it locked again shortly after that. They said that some other component?? wasn't replaced properly by their dept and they corrected it, but it locked again 2X b4 I could get it back to them. Now they can't seem 2 find a problem. Said it needs to lock or b locked when they get it, but of course I can't bring it 2 them in that condition. Does anyone know what could b causing this? Or know any diagnostics that can b done to determine what is the problem. Ty = }
2 hrs,is it that invovled?Look at your dash and decide,really look at it.Yes,it is that invoved,there are about 10 little bolts that hold the outer plastic housing on,once you get that off,heh heh,then you have to get it out from under the dash,also,the heater control cable has to be disconnected.Then you have to take the 2 heater hoses loose(good luck) and pull the heater core out and install the new one and put it all back together.Sounds easy huh?After you've torn up your hands under there trying to disconnect and connect things,you'll understand.And the F series truck heater core is one of the easier ones.
rae08512,
The solenoid is controlled by the brake light switch,if you lose power to it or it doesn't activate the brake lights,it won't activate the solenoid.Have they been checking power to the brake light switch?