someone posted privately that I might want to get more specific about the sandpaper solution I talked about for leveling paint chip repairs. I DID mention 2000 grit (I think it's available) but the writer said he knew people that thought a fine grit paper was 120! for some woodworking that might be great, but for working the topcoat of paint you need what I mentioned or in that neighborhood. I intended on replying to that person privately too, but accidentally hit the delete button instead of reply. Thanks for your note...I did specify the grit, but it doesn't hurt to go over it again if one person misread it, others might.
2000 might be a little strong, I work with Sandpaper on Guesso boards... which require starting with lower and then getting the glass like finish that artwork requires... 2000 might be a little useless especially with larger scratches, it's just going to tear the paper... -The Darkness
------ I know that the standard trick to touching up paint is to use a toothpick, or the torn-off end of a match (trimmed to a point), dip it into a drop of paint, and then let the tiny amount "wick" into the chip. I've tried this, but darned if it refused to wick, Either it doesn't attach, or goes on in a glob. Maybe I'm not cleaning the surface well enough? I'm using isopropyl alcohol. The chips are so small (smallest about 2mm across--but that white sure shows up against flame red metallic!) that they'd be almost impossible to sand down.
Shoman, Or whoever else out there familiar with car care, my Honda Odyssey should be arriving any day now according to the dealer. The latest I will get it will be next week. I know one would be better off to wax the car oneself but due to the cold weather, I wouldn't mind having them clean it the first time. I informed them of this conference and of all the recommendations of using only cotton towels made in the U.S. The dealer says they don't apply wax and wash the van using a cotton mitt and dry with a chamois. ( Hopefully I am spelling that last word correctly) I know if the mitt is not made in the US, I could get swirl marks and the made in the USA sticker may be inaccurate also. But what about the chamois? Will that cause damage to the paint job? Should I just let them borrow my white towels I bought at the store? If I do that they will probably think I am crazy and need to be committed to a facility somewhere. Not everyone is as particular about car care as everyone here on this chat topic. If someone could get back with me, I would appreciate it. Thanks.
I've had 2 new cars, both Acuras. They put swirls and slight scratches in both. And they do this with EVERY SINGLE new vehicle. I wouldn't let them TOUCH my new vehicle if I could avoid it. Get a space heater and warm up the garage just enough to make a wax job bearable for you. USE the towels you have, and a wax that does NOT harden to a white chalk. Just think, if you let them do it, you'll be back asking, "How do I use Zaino 5 to fill in the scratches and swirls."
Has anyone actually used the Langka paint chip repair product? Their web site www.langka.com says that it will smooth regular touchup paint blobs down even to the original paint surface.
What exactly is Langka and how does it work? Is it $20 worth of "snake oil" or does it deliver on its claims? If it works as claimed, it would be worth the $20.
I would really like to hear from someone that actually used Langka.
Sorry if this is repetitious. I just ordered a white (I would assume it has a clear coat) '99 Cougar and will be receiving it some time in early May. I would like to use the Zaino products, if anyone could tell me which ones I should use (i.e., Z2, Z3 or Z5 mainly confuse me) and when, I would really appreciate it. Thanks in advance.
From reading the posts and visiting the Zaino Website (www.zainobros.com), the recommended process is:
1. Wash your car with Dawn dishwashing liquid to remove all old wax.
2. Clay your car with Erazer or Clay magic, if you desire (see www.erazer.com for why you might want to do this).
3. Apply Z1 as a primer
4. If you car has swirl marks/scratches, use Z5, otherwise use Z2 (assuming you car has a clearcoat, which it seems like most new cars do).
5. If you car does not have a clearcoat, use Z3 instead of Z2.
6. Use Z6 between coats of Z2 or Z5.
If you have any questions, go the the Zaino web page and email Sal Zaino. He has always responded to my questions in a day or so and was always very helpful.
I have a new BMW coming in this saturday, and plan to spend all day sunday doing the Zaino thing. I'll keep you posted. Good luck.
Swirl marks... like the "Spider Webs" often found from harsh washing can be rid of by simply using z-5??? What if you use that and you don't have them? -The Darkness
Z-16 worked Excellent on my goodyears, maintained a nice shine for a decent amount of time, I don't exactly recall how long, but more so then others. -The Darkness
kate12, I know people that do not want the dealer to touch their car any more than possible, especially if the car is a dark color. A good Chamois won't hurt your paint, and chances are the wash mitt won't either, IF (and it's the big IF) they are clean and the car is washed right. The people washing cars at dealerships rarely take pride in their work. The car is sold, what do they care! I would take it dirty and do the job yourself or find a good detailer to do it for you. I think it might be worth the extra effort in the long run. There is one caution in this. If you get the car in a dirty state, it's tough to inspect it for paint flaws and prior bodywork before you take delivery. This would be the only reason I would go ahead and risk minor paint damage at delivery time. Z-5 claims it will hide swirls, but in my use, I have not found it to be that good at taking out minor swirls. No better or worse than other good products. In my opinion, if you have minor swirls, the best thing is to use a high quality swirl remover polish and get the paint looking right before you apply wax. Others have had good results with the Z-5 so I guess, you can take your chances and see what you get?
For a tire dressing, the Lexol works well, as does Mequires vinyl cleaner/conditioner, and I have also used No-Touch for years now. I usually wash the tire before using No-Touch, even though it does work well on mildly dirty tires, it works better on clean ones. The biggest drawback to No-touch is that it leaves a finish on the tire that rubs off black. I know tire store people hate to work on tires that are treated with No-Touch, and I myself don't like it. But once in a while, I need to do the tires the lazy way, and it does a good job.
Thanks for all the advice. I told the dealership that they could spray off the van with water but not to use their chamois or mitt. When they call to let me know the van arrives, I may bring a few of my towels with me. If they wash it, it is best they do it with my towels. I definitely do not want swirl marks, but I don't want to drive the van off the lot with any paint or body damage covered up by dirt. They must think I am one weird lady. Oh well.
Kate, You aren't weird, you are their customer, and not making unreasonable demands! One caution, Even with your own towels, don't wipe down the vehicle unless it has been properly washed. Any dirt remaining will scratch worse if dried, than washing improperly. One other thing I didn't think about. Some vehicles (mainly those from overseas) come with protective adhesive paper and/or spray coatings to protect them from sea/salt air flying trash while on trucks etc. In this case, you probably should let them wash the car. I hope things go well for you! Don
Is their any precautions to follow using Zaino products or clay bars on decals, pinstripping or anti chip film on the rocker panels? I have a 99 Outback.
The other day ..I noticed a commercial about a product called 'Prolong' on TV .. It is supposed to have survived acid tests among others and etc etc .... Has anyone used this product ...........?
I don't know how the acid test is rigged, but the laser they use in those infomercials won't harm anything of a light color, like the white car they test it on.
I would think using any good wax product on decals/film would be OK, just stay away from anything with harsh abrasives in it. I would also stay away from products that claim to remove all haze/oxidation, clean, gloss, protect all-in one. they sometimes contain harsh chemicals that might react badly with some decals.
About Clay on decals/film, just be sure to use a good film of liquid spray. Remember clay/Erazer bars should "glide" over the surface, never drag. IF you get ANY drag or pulling, use more liquid. Also, try not to slide the clay bar AT the edges of decals/film. slide it along the edge length wise or from the middle of the decal/film out towards and past the edge. The only fear here is that the clay might tear up the edge of the decal/film if you force it into the edge. It's a low risk, but a risk just the same.
BINU - that Prolong stuff... I would not be surprised that it was made from the leftovers of the Prolong lubricant that is supposed to replace motor oil and let the engine run forever without any more oil changes. Yeah, they probably fill up a car with Prolong lubricant, let the engine run for 50K miles, then drain the Prolong out and think "hmmm... what can we do with this stuff now? Aha! Let's dupe people into using it on their paint! What a gig!"
Go to the Z3 message Board. They have folks out there that have used it. One guy had a problem - apparently put it on too thick and it just didn't work to well for him - others have said it works great. i would suggest posting a message there or just go look. There are threads re: Langka - paint chips etc.... Maybe that will help a bit. thanks tim.
I recently bought and tried Clay Magic and must say how impressed I am. You can really feel a difference after using the product. I do have a question for the experienced-clayers out there. After claying, should the surface feel COMPLETELY smooth? I was able to discern a much smoother feel, but there was still some grittiness. Should I have repeated the procedure over and over until completely smooth?
For the record, I did this on a model year 1998 car with only 5k miles.
The question has been reposted here to keep waxing/polishing/detailing discussions from getting to disjointed and dispersed.
Does anyone out there recommend a brand name for a space heater? Hopefully the new van will arrive this week and I am eager to zaino the van. How much should I pay for one of them?
lance, There are some things that clay won't get out, for instance: paint that fills chips that sticks up (assuming it is well bonded to rest of the surface), chips themselves, dust or dirt that is under the paint/clearcoat. On a car as new as yours, you should have an almost perfectly smooth surface. Note, that most factory paint jobs have some "orange peel" which is a slight wavyness to the surface. This usually can't be felt as such, so I don't think it's what you are feeling. A gritty feeling could come from not using enough liquid on the clay. Remember the clay should "glide" over the surface, never drag or pull. If the clay does drag, it could leave deposits on the surface, but they should be visible. Try claying a small area again, make sure you use plenty of liquid (the spray that came with it, or lots of water with wash soap in it) so the clay glides. Use modest pressure and then wipe the area dry with a clean towel. The surface should be smooth. If not, you might have some dust under the surface of the paint or one of the other problems mentioned. You might check with the dealerships body shop, but don't let them sand or buff till you are SURE that is what you want! I would not recommend it as long as the paint looks good.
I once tried to heat a small garage with a variety of space heaters, kerosene, the very nice Pelonis ceramic furnace etc. None of them had the BTU's to heat that rather large space that is usually not insulated. What you need in this instance is what I have sometimes called a jet heater. This uses kerosene , is about 4 feet long and looks like a jet engine on a cart. The have a high speed fan and put out a LOT of heat. They are used on construction sites. Most rental places have them for rent. Be careful though, the blast is very hot and can scortch your car or start fires! This is the only thing I know of that might be able to really raise the temp in your garage enough to make a real difference without putting in a real furnace. The rental should not be much for a weekend, and the fuel might run you a few more bucks.
If you mean the type that rental places sell, they can have enough pressure to strip paint off houses, and probably off your car! Some of them are adjustable for pressure but it's still not the best thing. High pressure car washes can put small marks in your paint as they blast the dirt off your paint. I use them all the time, but I know and accept the consequinces. I'd rather get the salt off (living in the icy midwest) and use a fine polish in the spring than start rust by not washing and rinsing all winter.
I would stay away from anything as powerful as you mentione though, a garden hose and sudsy water with a soft mitt is the best thing.
This may have been covered in past posts as I'm fairly new & haven't made my way back through all the older posts yet. I've got a two week old Town & Country Limited & I need to give it it's first wash but I need some suggestions: When washing do you suggest using a towel or sponge to apply the soap? Can the towels be colored or only white? As long as the towel says 100% cotton they won't scratch or is there another indicator for softness? Jumping to a wax question - thinking about buying Zaino - can you use a buffer to apply or remove this wax?
You are right most of this has been covered, but...
A towel is OK and better than a synthetic sponge as dirt can get trapped more easily in a sponge. (Never use a real sponge -- pieces of coral can be trapped inside.)
Most people suggest using a two bucket system to wash -- one with soap and water to wash with and one with just water to rinse the towel after each time you touch the car with it. I use this method and it makes a huge difference (especially when you see all the crud at the bottom of the second bucket when finished).
Towels should be white only as dyes in the colored ones can cause problems - smearing, streaking and other concerns.
If the towels say 100% cotton "Made in the USA" you should be OK, but might still check the label as some are 86% cotton/14% Polyester yet say "100% Cotton" elsewhere. Anything less than 100% Cotton can scratch.
Most of the professionals here have not advocated a buffer due to the damage they can cause in inexperienced hands. Zaino goes on and off quite easily and I do not think you will gain that much from using a buffer with it. The other products I can not speak for from recent experience.
To expand: a wool or synthetic wool mitt is the best thing to use to wash the car, as it draws dirt away from the contact point with the finish. A clean, white, 100% cotton (US made) towel is good for drying, as is chamois; I like the Absorber, which is sort of an artificial chamois. A clean, white 100% cotton (US made) towel is preferred for polishing the car.
I personally like to blow off the mud and dirt at the car wash then go home and wash by hand! I am sure that if the pressure were too high this could cause a problem. Seems like most car washes do not have ha=igh enough pressure to do major damage? Correct me if I am wrong!
I need advice and help. Here's my problem. My late pearl coat 300m is one week old and after I washed it today, I noticed some very small but very annoying scratches right beside the rear pass. door handle. Looks like a coat with a zipper might have brushed against it. I have ordered Zaino,but I want to deal with these scratches before I begin. What do I do. The car is only one week old and I've got to think there is some solution I can attempt to get rid of these scratches.Any advice will be greatly appreciated.
'Just took a look at the ls1.com forum moderated by Chris Parrish. Zaino is alive and well, and I hope he's doing well too.
'Found an inventory sale of white towels (Fieldchrest) at a local store. So I bought four. And when I got home, my wife said thanks for the new towels. After I told her that the towels were for the car, well I really shouldn't tell you exactly what she said.
Todd, If you can easily feel the scratches with your fingernail, chances are you won't be able to polish them out, and nothing currently will "hide" them. Try a very mild polish with abrasive and work the area lightly to see if it gets better. If not, then you have to decide if you want to try to maybe touch up the area with clearcoat touchup or consider repainting. Personally, I would rather have a minor scratch than repaint a new car.
Just wanted to say that my Honda Odyssey has arrived at the dealership and hopefully we will pick it up tomorrow or the next day. I sat down and trimmed the edges off of my white cotton towels and boy do they fray quickly. I washed them and of course they frayed some more. I left two large towels alone. I know the risk of scratching is there if I leave the trim on but I think I will use them very carefully. I just can't stand to see the towels falling apart so quickly, not to mention the frayed cotton potentially accumulating on my new van. BTW, I am giving the dealership my towels to wash the van. Hopefully I will get them back. Thanks for all the advice everyone. I will let you know how everything went later.
I have found that the product No Touch for tires works great for cleaning inside the fender wells of your car. Spray it on after washing and it looks brand new again. Joe
My last four cars have been black (Lexus SC400, Lexus LS400, Volvo C70, Lexus GS400) and as you all know, black is a [non-permissible content removed] to keep looking good.
What do I use? Malms Polish & Glaze (www.malms.com) followed by Malms Concentrated Carnuba, not cheap by any means but they leave a beautiful swirl free finish. For quick cleanups, I use a duster and then Wax Shop Instant detailer or Meguiars Quik Detailer. Also, soft diapers seem to work best for me.
I also came across the California Water Blade (www.calcarcover.com) and was VERY skeptical to say the least. I thought this thing would scratch my car like crazy, but I tried it and it's pretty cool. Basically a squeegie, but with really soft silicone edges. Sure helps get the water off the car in a hurry! It's not on their web page, but they'll send you a catalog that includes the "water blade". Auto parts stores are just beginning to stock this item. I paid $19.95 directly.
For all those Zaino's lovers out there - I need a clarification. I have used the Zaino's Z1, Z2 and Z6 with phenomenal results on my New Beetle. I have been told, however, that Zaino's is a polish, not a wax, and should not substitute for REAL paint protection afforded in a wax product. They say that Zaino's does NOT protect against acid rain, pollution, etc. IS THIS TRUE? Please tell me it's not.
Zaino is inappropriately called a polish. The term polish ordinarily means it contains an abrasive. What you are using contains no abrasive. Zaino will protect ... the degree to which it will protect is unknown (and unproven scientifically to my satisfaction .. if anyone can provide any tests of the protection please do so!). That said, it does provide some of the best shine I have seen. It is "good stuff", fairly easy to use and so far, in my experience, provides as good protection as many waxes I have used (e.g., Zymol, Mothers, Meguires and Malms). I wouldn't worry about acid rain or other pollutants if you regularly wash and apply the wax or polymer based paint coating according to the manufacturers directions. Dave
Does Zaino protect your finish? YES, it forms a polymer layer above the clearcoat just like any wax. As such it will protect your finish the same way that wax does. Both regular wax and Zaino will, however, wear out (degraded, worn away, etc.) over time. Depending upon the climate and driving conditions this period will vary. Zaino will last at least as long as most good waxes and will be easier to clean.
Comments
Don
-The Darkness
------
I know that the standard trick to touching up paint is to use a toothpick, or the torn-off end of a match (trimmed to a point), dip it into a drop of paint, and then let the tiny amount "wick" into the chip.
I've tried this, but darned if it refused to wick, Either it doesn't attach, or goes on in a glob. Maybe I'm not cleaning the surface well enough? I'm using isopropyl alcohol. The chips are so small (smallest about 2mm across--but that white sure shows up against flame red metallic!) that they'd be almost impossible to sand down.
search on the web. tim.
Or whoever else out there familiar with car care, my Honda Odyssey should be arriving any day now according to the dealer. The latest I will get it will be next week. I know one would be better off to wax the car oneself but due to the cold weather, I wouldn't mind having them clean it the first time. I informed them of this conference and of all the recommendations of using only cotton towels made in the U.S. The dealer says they don't apply wax and wash the van using a cotton mitt and dry with a chamois. ( Hopefully I am spelling that last word correctly)
I know if the mitt is not made in the US, I could get swirl marks and the made in the USA sticker may be inaccurate also. But what about the chamois? Will that cause damage to the paint job? Should I just let them borrow my white towels I bought at the store? If I do that they will probably think I am crazy and need to be committed to a facility somewhere. Not everyone is as particular about car care as everyone here on this chat topic.
If someone could get back with me, I would appreciate it. Thanks.
BTW, I'm not looking for a product that gives me a sheen like glass; just a solid protectant that looks good.
What exactly is Langka and how does it work? Is it $20 worth of "snake oil" or does it deliver on its claims? If it works as claimed, it would be worth the $20.
I would really like to hear from someone that actually used Langka.
From reading the posts and visiting the Zaino Website (www.zainobros.com), the recommended process is:
1. Wash your car with Dawn dishwashing liquid to remove all old wax.
2. Clay your car with Erazer or Clay magic, if you desire (see www.erazer.com for why you might want to do this).
3. Apply Z1 as a primer
4. If you car has swirl marks/scratches, use Z5, otherwise use Z2 (assuming you car has a clearcoat, which it seems like most new cars do).
5. If you car does not have a clearcoat, use Z3 instead of Z2.
6. Use Z6 between coats of Z2 or Z5.
If you have any questions, go the the Zaino web page and email Sal Zaino. He has always responded to my questions in a day or so and was always very helpful.
I have a new BMW coming in this saturday, and plan to spend all day sunday doing the Zaino thing. I'll keep you posted. Good luck.
-The Darkness
--Mike
-The Darkness
I know people that do not want the dealer to touch their car any more than possible, especially if the car is a dark color. A good Chamois won't hurt your paint, and chances are the wash mitt won't either, IF (and it's the big IF) they are clean and the car is washed right. The people washing cars at dealerships rarely take pride in their work. The car is sold, what do they care!
I would take it dirty and do the job yourself or find a good detailer to do it for you. I think it might be worth the extra effort in the long run.
There is one caution in this. If you get the car in a dirty state, it's tough to inspect it for paint flaws and prior bodywork before you take delivery. This would be the only reason I would go ahead and risk minor paint damage at delivery time.
Z-5 claims it will hide swirls, but in my use, I have not found it to be that good at taking out minor swirls. No better or worse than other good products. In my opinion, if you have minor swirls, the best thing is to use a high quality swirl remover polish and get the paint looking right before you apply wax. Others have had good results with the Z-5 so I guess, you can take your chances and see what you get?
For a tire dressing, the Lexol works well, as does Mequires vinyl cleaner/conditioner, and I have also used No-Touch for years now. I usually wash the tire before using No-Touch, even though it does work well on mildly dirty tires, it works better on clean ones. The biggest drawback to No-touch is that it leaves a finish on the tire that rubs off black. I know tire store people hate to work on tires that are treated with No-Touch, and I myself don't like it. But once in a while, I need to do the tires the lazy way, and it does a good job.
Don
They must think I am one weird lady. Oh well.
You aren't weird, you are their customer, and not making unreasonable demands!
One caution, Even with your own towels, don't wipe down the vehicle unless it has been properly washed. Any dirt remaining will scratch worse if dried, than washing improperly.
One other thing I didn't think about. Some vehicles (mainly those from overseas) come with protective adhesive paper and/or spray coatings to protect them from sea/salt air flying trash while on trucks etc. In this case, you probably should let them wash the car.
I hope things go well for you!
Don
Lars
Has anyone used this product ...........?
About Clay on decals/film, just be sure to use a good film of liquid spray. Remember clay/Erazer bars should "glide" over the surface, never drag. IF you get ANY drag or pulling, use more liquid.
Also, try not to slide the clay bar AT the edges of decals/film. slide it along the edge length wise or from the middle of the decal/film out towards and past the edge. The only fear here is that the clay might tear up the edge of the decal/film if you force it into the edge. It's a low risk, but a risk just the same.
Don
thanks tim.
I recently bought and tried Clay Magic and must say how impressed I am. You can really feel a difference after using the product. I do have a question for the experienced-clayers out there. After claying, should the surface feel COMPLETELY smooth? I was able to discern a much smoother feel, but there was still some grittiness. Should I have repeated the procedure over and over until completely smooth?
For the record, I did this on a model year 1998 car with only 5k miles.
The question has been reposted here to keep waxing/polishing/detailing discussions from getting to disjointed and dispersed.
There are some things that clay won't get out, for instance: paint that fills chips that sticks up (assuming it is well bonded to rest of the surface), chips themselves, dust or dirt that is under the paint/clearcoat.
On a car as new as yours, you should have an almost perfectly smooth surface. Note, that most factory paint jobs have some "orange peel" which is a slight wavyness to the surface. This usually can't be felt as such, so I don't think it's what you are feeling.
A gritty feeling could come from not using enough liquid on the clay. Remember the clay should "glide" over the surface, never drag or pull. If the clay does drag, it could leave deposits on the surface, but they should be visible. Try claying a small area again, make sure you use plenty of liquid (the spray that came with it, or lots of water with wash soap in it) so the clay glides. Use modest pressure and then wipe the area dry with a clean towel. The surface should be smooth. If not, you might have some dust under the surface of the paint or one of the other problems mentioned. You might check with the dealerships body shop, but don't let them sand or buff till you are SURE that is what you want! I would not recommend it as long as the paint looks good.
Don
What you need in this instance is what I have sometimes called a jet heater. This uses kerosene , is about 4 feet long and looks like a jet engine on a cart. The have a high speed fan and put out a LOT of heat. They are used on construction sites. Most rental places have them for rent. Be careful though, the blast is very hot and can scortch your car or start fires! This is the only thing I know of that might be able to really raise the temp in your garage enough to make a real difference without putting in a real furnace. The rental should not be much for a weekend, and the fuel might run you a few more bucks.
Don
Any harmful side effects.....?
al
High pressure car washes can put small marks in your paint as they blast the dirt off your paint. I use them all the time, but I know and accept the consequinces. I'd rather get the salt off (living in the icy midwest) and use a fine polish in the spring than start rust by not washing and rinsing all winter.
I would stay away from anything as powerful as you mentione though, a garden hose and sudsy water with a soft mitt is the best thing.
Don
Got to use the spell checker more often!
Don
I've got a two week old Town & Country Limited & I need to give it it's first wash but I need some suggestions:
When washing do you suggest using a towel or sponge to apply the soap?
Can the towels be colored or only white?
As long as the towel says 100% cotton they won't scratch or is there another indicator for softness?
Jumping to a wax question - thinking about buying Zaino - can you use a buffer to apply or remove this wax?
A towel is OK and better than a synthetic sponge as dirt can get trapped more easily in a sponge. (Never use a real sponge -- pieces of coral can be trapped inside.)
Most people suggest using a two bucket system to wash -- one with soap and water to wash with and one with just water to rinse the towel after each time you touch the car with it. I use this method and it makes a huge difference (especially when you see all the crud at the bottom of the second bucket when finished).
Towels should be white only as dyes in the colored ones can cause problems - smearing, streaking and other concerns.
If the towels say 100% cotton "Made in the USA" you should be OK, but might still check the label as some are 86% cotton/14% Polyester yet say "100% Cotton" elsewhere. Anything less than 100% Cotton can scratch.
Most of the professionals here have not advocated a buffer due to the damage they can cause in inexperienced hands. Zaino goes on and off quite easily and I do not think you will gain that much from using a buffer with it. The other products I can not speak for from recent experience.
Hope this helps,
Terry
a wool or synthetic wool mitt is the best thing to use to wash the car, as it draws dirt away from the contact point with the finish.
A clean, white, 100% cotton (US made) towel is good for drying, as is chamois; I like the Absorber, which is sort of an artificial chamois.
A clean, white 100% cotton (US made) towel is preferred for polishing the car.
I appreciate your input & time.
Jeff
'Found an inventory sale of white towels (Fieldchrest) at a local store. So I bought four. And when I got home, my wife said thanks for the new towels. After I told her that the towels were for the car, well I really shouldn't tell you exactly what she said.
If you can easily feel the scratches with your fingernail, chances are you won't be able to polish them out, and nothing currently will "hide" them. Try a very mild polish with abrasive and work the area lightly to see if it gets better. If not, then you have to decide if you want to try to maybe touch up the area with clearcoat touchup or consider repainting. Personally, I would rather have a minor scratch than repaint a new car.
Don
I sat down and trimmed the edges off of my white cotton towels and boy do they fray quickly. I washed them and of course they frayed some more. I left two large towels alone. I know the risk of scratching is there if I leave the trim on but I think I will use them very carefully. I just can't stand to see the towels falling apart so quickly, not to mention the frayed cotton potentially accumulating on my new van.
BTW, I am giving the dealership my towels to wash the van. Hopefully I will get them back. Thanks for all the advice everyone. I will let you know how everything went later.
Joe
My last four cars have been black (Lexus SC400, Lexus LS400, Volvo C70, Lexus GS400) and as you all know, black is a [non-permissible content removed] to keep looking good.
What do I use? Malms Polish & Glaze (www.malms.com) followed by Malms Concentrated Carnuba, not cheap by any means but they leave a beautiful swirl free finish. For quick cleanups, I use a duster and then Wax Shop Instant detailer or Meguiars Quik Detailer. Also, soft diapers seem to work best for me.
I also came across the California Water Blade (www.calcarcover.com) and was VERY skeptical to say the least. I thought this thing would scratch my car like crazy, but I tried it and it's pretty cool. Basically a squeegie, but with really soft silicone edges. Sure helps get the water off the car in a hurry! It's not on their web page, but they'll send you a catalog that includes the "water blade". Auto parts stores are just beginning to stock this item. I paid $19.95 directly.
Glad to have found this forum!
Gene
Frank
Dave