I Don't Understand What My Mechanic is Saying

Mr_Shiftright · April 1999

Well, I'm just ballparking here, so check those numbers with a private shop so you'll be armed with some good facts. But that does seem awfully high, unless there was more than just a line involved. I remember having my entire power steering ram replaced in my Saab Turbo for less than that, and that is a very inaccessible unit.

isellhondas · April 1999

I have no idea whether or not you were overcharged but I'm sure you are well aware that you are driving one of the MOST expensive cars in the world to repair!

They may have had to damm near pull that engine to get to the hose.

A buddy of mine had to replace the clutch on his V-12 XKE once.

The price was STAGGERING but it was something like a 18 hour job at 85.00 per hour or whatever the rate was at the time.

Of course, he had to pay top dollar for the parts as well.

When he complained, the Service Manager told him " You should have thought about that when you decided you had to have a 12 cyl Jaguar"

Harsh words, and a poor bedside manner perhaps.

But oh so true!

guitarzan · April 1999

Had he some estimate on the work? You didn't mention if they had given him a ballpark which they may have strayed from.

Mr_Shiftright · April 1999

Well, on a V12 clutch you have to pull the motor and transmission as a unit...no fun...but any experienced shop should be able to give you a very close estimate of repairs, along with all the snags and additions/subtractions. If you don't work this out beforehand, you're writing a blank check made out to you-know-who. I mean, most of us who go, say, to the dentist, don't say..."well, just start drilling and we'll deal with whatever comes up."

You have to get some numbers down on paper with repair shops before the work begins...everyone has to be on the same page.

isellhondas · April 1999

Yes, my friend's reaction came when he was given the estimate. He shopped around and found that most shops didn't even want to tackle the job.

And I think some of the expense came from the " While we are in there..it's a good idea to change the ...."

And...yes, he SHOULD have thought about the cost of repairs when he bought the Jag. A fact he is well aware of now.

Today, he drives a Toyota truck!

ratch · April 1999

Infoseeker -- I don't know -- there never was much percentage in taking advantage of females over males, so I don't know if its a gender thing.

Basically, exotic cars generally require exotic care -- isn't that part of their allure?

But, always get an estimate -- most places have to come in within 20% -- and don't hesitate to use that estimate to shop around.

Get on a telephone and shop around or tell the service manager that you think the price is too high and make them show you its basis before you authorize the work.

One place you can sometimes save money is by telling a dealer that you see no reason why you should pay retail for parts. Tell them, in no uncertain terms, that how they deal with you is a factor of your ever buying another one of their cars.

Finally, analyze the price in a cost benefit way and see if maybe the value isn't more than you assume. A $600 repair that will last 10 years isn't such a bad deal.

iflyhelis · April 1999

I have searched for hours looking for a flat rate
book on the net for automotive purposes. None to be found! You will have to buy one if you are
interested in finding out the aprox. labor times.

You are correct in assuming that a good mechanic
can beat the flat rate times. I just had a crank
seal & timing cover seal plus a water pump replaced in a 1992 Stanza XE flat rate was 10.5 hours for the seals & 2 hours on the pump. They had it all done that day. Supposedly the engine is to be removed, you know that didn't happen.

gus · May 1999

That's where good mechanics make their money. They do the job, they beat flat rate. Unfortunately, this is also how bad mechanics make money--they either don't do the job or do a so-so job, and they get paid for flat rate too.

Mr_Shiftright · May 1999

Nothing wrong with beating the flat rate...one is paid not only for what one does, but for what one knows...it's only fair, I think. Otherwise, the faster and more knowledgeable a mechanic became, the less he/she would make, if one went by flat rate only.

jeffrey · May 1999

...maybe your name should be shifty? (Just kidding.) But seriosly, I believe the fact that 'most-any good mechanic can do the work in less than the flat-rate time indicates that the manufacturers (or whoever publishes the FR book) are defrauding us. Most consumers do not know that they are being charged (at PREMIUM rates, too!) for time NOT spent repairing their vehicle. Virtually none of us is given the choice (eg, I'll charge you the flat rate no matter how much trouble we have [or how stupid my mechanic is] or we'll charge you hourly for whatever time it takes. Which would you like?).

isellhondas · May 1999

A good mechanic can usually beat the published flat rate, but there is a reason for this.

First, this guy is faster and smarter than most. He may have years of experience.

He has spent a TREMENDOUS amount in tools. He has bought the 100.00 tool that makes the job easier to do.

Now, on the other hand, if he runs into trouble, and the two hour job takes three, he still gets paid for two!

He can run into stripped bolts (by the do-it yourselfer who fixed it last time) or stubborn, rusted fasteners etc.

The flat rate books assume average times.

Mr_Shiftright · May 1999

I agree, I don't think the flat rate is a fraud, per se, in that it presupposes a reasonable amount of time for a job, neither too much or too little. Sometimes the mechanic wins, sometimes he/she loses...I think generally it works out. This is not an easy way to get rich.

adamsjd · May 1999

I've got a maintenance question for you knowlegable gents.

I just bought a used (92) camaro. It was overheating (I got a discount off the price because of it) and I took it to my mechanic as soon as I got it. Now, he replaced a few things (fan motor was dead, one or two sensors weren't working) and says he has it stable at 220-240 degrees. I have heard elsewhere that about 200 is the correct temperature for a camaro to run, but the mechanic said that 220-240 is not too much higher than normal. Does this sound right?

220-240 is MUCH lower than when it was overheating before BTW... The needle was pegged at over 300.

Thanks!

Mr_Shiftright · May 1999

This depends on the pressure you're running, whether 220 is too high. Engines like to run hot, and the more pressure, the higher the boiling point...so even though it's 220, it's still not boiling because of the pressurized system.

If you're not overflowing too much into the overflow tank, and the car isn't pinging or running badly, I'd say it's okay at 220+...you might take the precaution of having the radiator flow tested, and of changing the thermostat just as a maintenance item (do NOT remove it!).

Best test would be to climb a long steep hill on a hot day with the a/c on and see what the extreme is on your gauge...that way you'll know the worst possible case.

kuching · May 1999

My wife's '95 Lincoln Continental's self-leveling feature recently began "leveling" at peculiar times: at stop lights, while driving up hill etc. The dealership told her the leveling 'bags' probably had a slow leak in them and replacement cost is in the neighborhood of 2K. Without replacement, they say, the car will eventually look like a low rider. Could any of this be right??? I'm a non-mechanic, but it sounds like someone is trying to take advantage of a perceived auto ignorance of my wife. Can anyone give me the straight scoop on this? Thanks in advance.
Kuching-

ralph124c · May 1999

Reading the earlier posts struck a chord in my memory bank- I remember in the early '80s that dealers for expensive performance tires (Pirelli, Michelen, etc.) were charging extra to have your tires filled with nitrogen instead of good old plain air (82% N2). As I recall, they were getting something like $5.00/tire! Maybe it's time to start this particular scam again!

gchernya1 · May 1999

To 'Lincoln Leveling'.
Now you know why this car has a worst depreciation in it's class. Both parts and labor are expensive on the air suspension, and nobody can guaranty that it will be done right. If you going to keep it, you have no choice but replace "bags". Just get as long parts and labor warranty for them as possible. As for me, I wouldnt keep this car, no matter monetary losses I sustain. If you wife likes cushion ride, lease a new Continental for her and leave problems to somebody else.

Mr_Shiftright · May 1999

so this car can't be retro-fitted with springs and shocks for $2K? Anybody ever tried that?

snoid · June 1999

My friend has a 98 sunfire that she bought new. the dealer has noted uneven tire wear at the 20,000 mile check up and has recommended an alignment. she has had the car back to the dealer frequently complaining of a vibration in the front end. they say it is tire noise. i own a 97 sunfire that i bought brand new from the same dealer and she liked it so much that is why she bought one. i have 58,000 on the car with no front-end trouble and am still riding on the original tires. she rotates the tires and has not hit anything to cause the car to be out of alignment. the tire brands are different on the cars and this may be the reason for the different feeling ride according to the dealer. anyone have the same problem or an idea on how to fix this? so far the dealer hasn't been able to find the problem. thanks

Mr_Shiftright · June 1999

If not a balance problem or a bent rim, then one would have to suspect the tire itself is now out of round...if it isn't round, it won't roll right.
Rotating the tires might not prove anything because all the tires are suspect.

Switching brands (and hence tread patterns)may be okay as long as the same pair of tires goes on each axle.

rea98d · July 1999

The uneven wear sounds like wheels may be out of alignment. Had a tire salesman tell us once that with FWD cars, you had to have the back wheels as well as the front aligned. (He didn't do alignments, and wouldn't reccomend a particular shop, so he wasn't out to bilk us I don't think.) I'm assuming a sunfire is FWD like most cars, but you know what they say about those who assume. Anyway, mixing tire brands means nothing. I do it all the time, and never have any trouble. Take the car to a tire shop, and have them check the balance, and that should cure your problems.

curn · August 1999

Can someone please explain to me what the axle ratio (ie 3.08) is and which ratio would be better.

dhoff · August 1999

Oh boy, let me see if I can explain this simply.

The axle ratio refers to the number of times the driveshaft or input shaft turns to get one revolution of the driven wheel.

For instance the 3.08 ratio you have means that (let's assume a rear wheel drive car here) the driveshaft has to turn 3.08 times for the rear wheel to turn once.

Which is better depends on what you want to do with the car. A higher numeric ratio is better for drag racing, but a lower numeric ratio is better for fuel economy.

Hope this helps.

Dave

curn · August 1999

Thanks! I just bought an F-150 and was wondering if that ratio was OK. Sounds as though it is...

burdawg · September 1999

Depends on your expected use. If you plan to tow a moderate to heavy load, a lower geared axle is better, such as 4.11:1 (Ford) or 4.10:1 (GM). For normal all around use, 3.73:1 (GM) is good, and most GM trucks with towing packages come with this range. I don't know the equivilant from Ford. Many trucks, SUV's, etc, sold without towing equipment will have a higher ratio, such as 3.42:1 (GM) or 3.08:1 (Ford and GM). This will result in better fuel milage, and to some extent less wear and tear since overall RPM's will be lower. Bear in mind that both makers don't recommend towing heavy loads with the higher geared axles (3.08:1 or 3.42:1).

tdandld · September 1999

My mechanic has told me that my 1989 Honda Accord's Carburetor cannot be rebuilt. He says I should put a new one on. Is this true or am I being taken for a bleach blonde?

Mr_Shiftright · October 1999

RE: Accord carburator.

Well, here's the story on that--of course, it CAN be rebuilt, but the success rate is not very high with rebuilds on these units, since the internal passages are very very tiny and the chances of cleaning them properly are not so good.

So waht your mechanic is saying is "Look, I don't want to take a chance on this not working and me wasting my time, so I'd rather you bought a new one and saved me the risk of working for nothing".

His/her position is reasonable, and unless he/she were quite expert and just rebuilt Accord carburators 8 hours a day, I'd say his/her chances of success are about 1 in 5.

RE: Repairs on minivan

This sounds like a classic case of a failure to communicate on both sides. They didn't hear from you, you didn't hear from them, so both parties just went for it. Actually, the timing belt repair cost sounds reasonable, and I don't know what seals were replaced, so the cost could be quite justifiable or not, depending on what they actually did. In some states, if you don't give verbal or written authorization, you get the job for free. Check the rules with your local District Attorney's Consumer Info Bureau.

letmetalk · October 1999

I just got back from my "pre-inspection" California smog check.

This is a 1985 SAAB 900Turbo with 143K miles and a 5spd transmission.

The emission failed for NO at 15mph and was borderline at 25mph. CO and HC were OK.

The last tune up was at the 120K service and the car has been very driven little in the last three years.

How do I diagnose this? Do I need a new catalytic converter or will a good tune-up get me going? Anyone out there know what I'm looking at? $$$?

Thanks for any help,
Dan Glenn

guitarzan · October 1999

I believe the NO imbalance is caused by improper fuel/air ratio. I agree that a tuneup should do it.

However, a blocked converter can be an initial cause of this. Being blocked, it slows down the airflow through the engine, thus the engine runs rich. So have it looked at.

guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference

gus · October 1999

It's never a bad idea to really warm up your car before a smog check, either. Make sure your car is at normal operating temp, and that the
catalytic converter is good and hot. Tests performed on cold cats will show failures.

letmetalk, I'm curious about something. You mention tests at 15 mph and 25 mph. Are your tests being performed at speed, or do you mean 1500 rpm and 2500 rpm?

gus
Conference Host

ratch · November 1999

When they first started all this emissions stuff, NO levels are controlled by the EGR valve which (along with spark timing) maintains combustion temperatures below the level that NO forms.

Reduced NO is also a main reason for reduced compression and the contradiction gasoline engines face -- inefficent combustion to reduce NO.

Most EGR valves operate when the engine has reached its operating temperature and when it is above idle. EGR valves can fail; the control sensors can fail, and the passages can become clogged.

I don't even know if your car has an EGR valve, but I assume it has some way to maintain combustion temperatures below that needed to form NO.

rbslosberg · December 1999

My 5 year old battery just died on a 1990 Ford Taurus. The mechanic replaced it and ran a computer test on the alternator. The test read something like alternator"has a bad diode". The mechanic said he felt the alternator did not need to be replaced. A second mechanic at Pep Boys w/out seeing the car felt that it should be replaced on the basis of the test. Any thoughts.

lancerfixer · December 1999

I'd throw just the battery in, then see what happens. five years is a normal life span for a battery; after that, it can't really hold a charge very well, especially in cold weather. It wouldn't make much sense to throw the kind of money a new alternator would cost into a '90 Taurus unless it was really, truly, necessary. If you get the normal bad alternator signals (alt. light, low voltage, dim lights, etc) then change it; otherwise, it should be fine.

guitarzan · December 1999

An alternator has 3 diodes. When one fails, the light begins to blink. When 2 fail, the light blinks at 2x the previous rate. Third fails, no more juice.

Summit Racing, has a rebuild kit for standard GM alternators. It used to be $12, or $24 with a new coil. Years ago I bought one, pulled alternator, rebuilt it using the explicit instructions enclosed, and put it back in. It takes 2 people to put it in, but it is a pretty simple job overall. Sure beats a $60 remanufactured one. And I'm a scaredy cat when it comes to touching mechanical stuff.

Guitarzan
Community Leader/Vans Conference

mark13 · January 2000

What are strut plates or strut mounts, and why could they need replacement after only 12000 miles on a 1997 Camry that has not been abused in any way?

spokane · January 2000

The strut mount is a thrust bearing assembly at the top of the suspension strut. As you steer the wheels right or left, this is the bearing that permits the tire/wheel/knuckle assembly to be aimed in the direction of travel. These two bearings (right and left front) must support the weight of the front of the car while also providing very smooth steering action. A small amount of dirt can ruin this bearing but it is unlikely that driving style or road conditions would cause an early failure. Other than flood damage or chassis damage from a collision, a factory defect in the bearing or it's sealing system is by far the most likely cause of a failure with only 12,000 miles.

Chillian · January 2000

Last week I took our 1996 explorer into the local
dealer to have the passenger door hatch replaced.
Since the door was shut at the time, they had to take the passanger seat out to get at the door hatch. After they replaced the hatch, the dealer noticed that the now the 2-wheel drive and 4-wheel drive lights were flashing and the windows nolonger worked. They told me that the "Gem" computer module went out and it would have to be replaced. Could they have shorted something out? This seems like too much of a coincidence to me? any thoughts out there?

spokane · January 2000

I agree, Chillian, that the two events are probably not related if you had no previous electrical problems. I am not sure what the "door hatch" repair was, but if they did work within the door, damage to the electric window control circuitry was possible. A blown fuse would be the likely result. The 4WD/2WD controls may be on this same fused circuit. If a replacement fuse blows again, I would look inside the door for the cause. A computer failure associated with this problem seems unlikely.

oldharry · January 2000

Mark13, Spokane is right in what he said, but did not go far enough. 12 K on a three year old car isn't a lot of miles. If you are in the land of salt, as I am, a little gets by ALL seals, and if the car sits too long without driving, corrosion gets to the bearing. In my shop, I recommend replacing bearings with all strut jobs, but you should be years from that with the miles you drive.

Harry

reddogs · January 2000

I had several new fords flash the 2-wheel drive and 4-wheel drive display lights then die. I thought it was me but my buddies tell me its a common problem on the 4X4's.......

pixelation · February 2000

Howdy folks. My girlfriend's Mirage just popped
on the SRS light the other day. The dealership mechanic indicated that there was an "open circuit in the clock spring assembly" - a short in the SRS wiring, as well as the battery needing to be replaced.

The car has 45k on it, out of warranty by 9k. Even so, this seems like a repair the dealership should honor, as it's obviously a defect and not wear-and-tear (in serious safety equipment, no less).

On top of all this, the dealership has suggested replacing brake pads (just pads for $300!?) and replacing the battery (for $103). The replacement of the "clock spring assembly" would cost $230. Their prices seem like a serious gouge.

Any suggestions on getting this fixed out of warranty or should we just grimace and pay it?
(the battery and brakes I'll do myself for a whopping $100 or less... they're crazy)

Thanks muchly - pixelation

0patience · March 2000

Advise them what you told us,ask if there is anything that can be done,also,double check your warranty,emmissions and safety restraints may have a different warranty on them.

0patience · March 2000

I recently was in the midst of a discussion on replaced parts and people requesting their old parts,a couple of shop owners expressed great dispair at the comments I made in this discussion about people should request their old part.I know this is boring info,but the point I am making is that you should request your old parts and are intitled to them(except for cores and warranty parts) because you own them,they are your property,no matter what anyone says.Even if you don't want to take them home with you,tell them that they are to retain the old parts until you can inspect them.Even if you have no idea of what you are looking at,they don't know that you don't.It will do 2 things,it will make them think twice about charging you for a part they haven't replaced,and it will give you the opertunity(spelling)to ask them why they think it failed or why it is considered failed.I hope this helps someone,it makes me feel better.

shekharpatel · March 2000

1990 Ford Taurus wagon w/ 3.0L V6 has developed a perceptible "bump" as it engages the gears (reverse or first). My mechanic said I need to change the engine mounts. What are they? Are they supposed to "fail" at 85000 miles? What type of labor is involved in replacing these mounts (estimate is $150)? I HATE FORD PRODUCTS.

bnormann · March 2000

Engine mounts are what hold your engine in the car. They are generally made in 2 or three pieces, with at least one of those pieces being rubber. The idea is that the rubber reduces the noise and vibration that the engine would transmit to the car chassis (and then to the passengers).

It is the rubber part that wears out, particularly if the part is designed wrong and the rubber is under too heavy of a load. If you live in Arizona, then the heat also takes it's toll on rubber parts. Age is also a factor, as the rubber degrades over time.

It is not unusual for this part to require replacing after 80,000 miles and ten years. There is nothing wrong with your FORD, I had to replace the engine mounts on my Porsche at 100,000 miles, too.

Bruce

pixelation · March 2000

Well, I did contact Mitsu customer service. They started a review process and in 24 hours came back with the response that "no, sorry it's out of warranty, so we won't fix it." and the comment that "electrical parts go bad". I guess that's it then. Pay the money or risk the airbag not deploying.

That just seems wrong to me. *sigh*

Thanks for the suggestions.

cookie00 · March 2000

To the party that posted on requesting replaced parts. You're right, no one can tell you you aren't. What would be the problem with throwing old engine mounts, or whatever, in a bag and handing it to the customer. ALL shops should do this.

I replaced the wheels on my brand new Impala. I told the "boys" I was selling my wheels to a friend and to put them in the boxes the replacement wheels came in. They did this. But, as I watched through a window, they went around the car and collected each and every nut from the original wheels and threw them in a box. I had to purchase new nuts to go with the new wheels, but they fully intended NOT to give me the original nuts. Hello?? I just said I was selling the old wheels to someone else, might that person not have need of those nuts??? 'uh.. sure lady..." They gave me the nuts.. but when I got home I noticed I was one short.. Oh well.

isellhondas · March 2000

Oh, I don't know...You either trust the shop or you dont! The last thing I want is a bag of greasy worn out parts to "examine" and dispose of.

For those who are REALLY paranoid....how would you know those really came from YOUR car?

If you think the shop is out to cheat you, you seriously need to find another shop or else do your own work!

ojohn · April 2000

I have a Acura Integra with 60,000 miles on it. The Acura dealer says I should have my fuel injectors "flushed". Is this valid advice by my dealer? Could I buy additives to do it myself? OJ

0patience · April 2000

There is a cleaner for what he is talking about.I would suggest GM Top Cleaner,it is a intake and ijection system cleaner.Follow the directions on the can and it should do the job.That is what a lot of shops and dealers use.It is available at any GM or Chevrolet dealer.I recommend it.

I Don't Understand What My Mechanic is Saying

Comments

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles