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Tires
bonnie_rick
Member Posts: 115
many tire topics throughout our Conferences.
Start with the Sedans Conferences' Correct
Tire Pressure? (Topic #1312).
Then come back here and continue those
discussions!
Bonnie Rick
Town Hall Community Manager, edmunds.com
Start with the Sedans Conferences' Correct
Tire Pressure? (Topic #1312).
Then come back here and continue those
discussions!
Bonnie Rick
Town Hall Community Manager, edmunds.com
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This discussion has been closed.
Comments
Has spin balancing on the car (which seemed like a heck of a good idea to me) been superceded by some superior method, or does nobody have the equipment or does nobody give a damn or do I just live too far from civilization?
If somebody could explain laser balancing too, I'd be grateful.
It's a way of balancing the entire rotating mass: wheel, tire, brake disc, lugs, etc.
I haven't seen it done in years.
don't have knowledge of balancing, but think a shifted tire (a possible anomaly) could change the balance also.
Power assisted rack and Pinion steering can experience high speed flutter as a result of oscillations.
Wheel and tire balance is quite dynamic. Sometimes, the weight has to be split equally on either side of the "light" spot.
Also, if you're weighted only on the inside of the wheel, the tires are probably not fully balanced.
Finally, aggressive driving demands that the tires be shaved -- rounded. Trueing shows up separations and can reveal a tire that cannot be dynamically balanced.
Will this affect ride, handling, gas mileage, etc.? Any insight would be helpful.
Thanks.
Your handling will improve very slightly from the wider footprint. You will suffer from a slightly-off speedometer/odometer because a 195/60 is a fraction taller than a 185/60. A 195/55 would be the same height.
The other factors (mileage, etc.) will be insignificantly changed, because the tire isn't substantially different in size. Had you done a full "Plus 1" conversion - from a 185/60R14 to a 195/50R15, you would see more subtantial differences because the tire now has less sidewall, probably a harder rubber compound, and (likely) less tread depth.
what kind of car do you have, and what kind of driving do you do?
I'm driving new G20. Well, I guess my driving style is not aggressive, but sometimes I would speed on highway--to shorten the trip. In the city, I don't slam hard on gas nor brake. So what you think which model should I consider?
Sorry about the previous message, that question was for my girlfriend!! She drives toyota corolla (98). Her driving is very conservative--slow.... So what do you recommand for her car?? thank you
if her driving is that conservative, you may not want to change tire sizes - the performance advantages of going to a wider, lower-aspect-ratio tire wil be completely lost on her car.
For her kind of driving, I like the Michelin X-One - available in both 175/65 and 185/60 sizes. They have a lifetime warranty, and with rotation, would probably be the last set of tires you buy for her car.
Check these two websites for info on the X-One:
The Tire Rack - Michelin X-One
Michelin.com - Michelin X-One
Any help relative to noise factors for various tire brands. Thanks
-Michelin MXV4 much better than avg/avg
-Goodyear Eagle GT+4 much better than avg/avg
-Pirelli P6000 much better than avg/avg
-Dunlop D60 A2 with JLB better than avg/worsethan
avg
-Goodrich Touring T/A HR4 better than avg/avg
-Yokohama Avid H4 much better than avg/worse than
avg
-Goodyear Eagle LS much better than avg/avg
-Bridgestone Turanza H much better than avg/worse
than avg
-Firestone Firehawk Touring LH
much better than avg/avg
-Cooper Cobra GTH avg/worse than avg
I don't know if this helps much or not. It's from the '99 Buyer's Guide.
You can also check the sticker in the door jam..in some makes of cars it is on the middle console door between the seats, but on most models, it is in the jam. This will give you the stock tire size, speed rating and proper inflation
Does any one know of the solution.?
In my case, I replaced the right, rear wheel bearing and the car drives like new again.
Bye for now,
rick d.
One thing I haven't noticed is mileage posts... Something along the lines of: "I've gotten x amount of miles from my new tires."
Granted I don't want to start a flame war or my tires are better than yours, but I think this particular type of mileage "at least in my case" needs to be tested in a group setting.
I have never gotten more than 2,000 miles out of a set of tires whenever I replace all 4. Yes, that's true mileage, and no it isn't driving habits.
The simple fact of the matter is that whenever I change all 4 tires on a car, that car gets totaled in an accident before the tires reach 2,000 miles.
This phenomenon has been experienced on 2 seperate cars a few years apart, and since then, I only change 2 tires at a time.
Even then, the car gets involved in an accident as well... (Just no major damage)
I know it isn't psychological, but I'm almost finding it easier to just buy a new car each time I need new tires (The only time I have good luck) or trading that particular car in on another.
(Yes, changing just one tire reveals no problems whatsoever.) I've just got to replace tires one at a time 2,000 miles apart.
That's pretty funny. It happened to me. Hope it doesn't happen on the new car.
Goodyear "Concorde Caliper" - 50000km
Goodyear S4S - based on three sets of tires on
three separate cars. 70000km.
I replaced these tires when I considered them "worn out", that is to say with about 5/16" tread depth left in them. A tire that can't shed snow and rain is pretty much useless, in my opinion.
5/16"? Tires are generally measured in 32nds, so that's 10/32" - a new car tire is usually just 12/32". Did you mean 5/32"?
I consider a tire useless when it won't slide.
That's why I upgraded to a car that was #1 safer, and #2 could get me out of the way of some of the boneheads down here who can't drive...
For some reason, the state of South Carolina determined that everyone had a right to drive and insurance companies "would" insure people. That made all insured drivers pay a recoupment fee that allowed these otherwise uninsurable drivers the ability to drive.
Just this year, the state said that wasn't required. WooHaa!!!
Lower insurance rates "hopefully"... now if we can just get rid of this lousy car tax.
(For those who don;t know, we have to pay a personal property tax on our vehicles.) the more our car's worth, the more we pay... It isn't unusual to have a new car run a property tax of over $1,000 per year for the "privilege" of driving in this "lovely" state.
Scorpion12
Geez, I hate the way these people down here drive!!!!!
However, like any equipment, the two-plane "computerized" balancers do need periodic calibration to maintain their accuracy.
A tire with excessive radial run-out (out of round) can deliver a poor ride even though its dynamic balance is good. I haven't seen recent specs, but several years ago Ford had a maximum allowable radial TIR (Total Indicated Runout) of 5/64" or 0.078". This should be checked if vibration continues after balancing. Sometimes radial TIR can be improved by remounting the tire on the wheel; at other time the the tire (or wheel) must be replaced.
By the way, I recently wanted to use an on-car spin balancer to help identify a suspect wheel bearing. Like you, I found that all the shops in my area had scrapped that equipment.
What causes tires to cup?
TIA!