I was wondering the same thing about the sealant. We just purchased a new Honday Odyssey and while I was prepared for other tricks they pull in the Finance room, I didn't see this one coming. Took it hook, line, and sinker. Fortunately, they haven't done the work yet so I'm looking for a way to get out of it and either get my $600 back or have it applied to something different (extended warranty or the loan principle). It may be a pipe dream but its worth looking into. I needed to find out if it was a worthwhile service first and you folks have answered that question pretty squarely. Now I just have to get out of it. Thanks for this info.
you have 5 days to reconsider an agreement (back out). This may vary from state to state. Hopefully you will get the right info here. I wouldn't try to get it applied to an extended warranty unless you want it. Personally, though, with the costs of getting things fixed- I believe in an extended warranty. There are those that say it is not worthwhile. Thats true for all insurance. If you never need it- than it was a waste of money. The one time I had it, I broke even. And this vehicle was relatively trouble free. I bought it with my new Sentra. This vehicle already spit out an automatic tranny after 300 miles. Would have cost 1500 bucks.
I was in a mall parking lot, and someone keyed my car!!! It's a 2001 Accord. The scratches could have been worse, however, I am greatly perturbed by them. Does anyone know what a dealer touch-up, or repaint would cost me? Does insurance cover anything like this? The scratch that reached metal is on the right fender. It was also scratched on the front passenger door, as well as near the sunroof. Geez, I hate that people don't respect what I, or anybody for that matter, work hard to pay for.
While I was waiting in line to have my car washed at the local Touchless, the man in front of me decides he no longer wants to have his car washed. So he backs up into me. To make a long story short, my 1999 Red Toyota Solara has white scratch marks on the colored bumper. The next day I went to a detailer and he seemed to have made the scratches disappear. It is now 2 months since I had that job done and my bumpers are showing the white scratches again. The detailer told me he used compound (would not tell me what brand), but it wasn't permanent (even though he said it was). I think I got ripped off! I want my bumpers fixed permanently. I can't live with the scratches. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I can remove these scratches? Is having my bumper painted the only option? Thank you for your help!
Call your insureance agent. I believe vandalism is covered under most policies. Years ago someone scratched a four-letter word on the side of my Camaro in a parking lot. Not only did my policy cover the damage, I didn't have to pay any deductable. I really feel bad for you. I park my new 2001 Accord Coupe in the "south-forty" to avoid door dings, but sometimes I fear that may just attract some idiot who is mean-spirited enough to want to distroy someone's nice car. Guess it's no fun to scratch up an old beat up car, but a nice shiny new car sitting all by itself. . . . ahh!
I recently bought a used car that had a small scratch that had touch up paint applied to the area. I don't know how the previous owner prepared the area before applying the touch up paint. I was wondering if I should worry about this or should I remove the touch paint, prepare the area properly and then reapply the touch up paint. If I choose the second route, is there a way to remove the paint from this area.
I have been a silent reader for some weeks now and I greatly appreciate all the great tips on how to fix paint chips and the discussions on waxes, etc. Thanks.
Someone keyed my brand new 1979 Firebird Formula way back when. One scratch on the passenger side from front to back and two the entire length of the hood. It will be covered under your comprehensive coverage and you will just have to pay the deductible. I took my car to the local Pontiac dealer and had the hood and entire right side of the car painted.
Hi, I recently bought a new 2000 honda prelude, actually a week and a half ago and now 7oo miles later, the car has tiny only in the sun viusible scratches all over it, is this normal ? what should I do ?
No. It's probably the result of the use of inferior material to wash, dry, apply, wipe off, and buff wax.
Use high-quality, white, Made in USA, all cotton towels from a bath store or department, not from a car parts store or the bulk towels sold in discount stores by weight.
I own a reddish brown 1986 Honda Accord that has recently experiencing severe deterioration of the paint (several white blotches on the roof and the hood). An autobody expert says it's due to the heavy oxidation & UV damage. The white blotches are the results of the clear coat separating away from the paint. Any "cheap" solution to restore its original color? Or, at least, how to minimize the ugly blotches (e.g. using red color wax)?
First, you would want to use a non-abrasive cleaner such as Pinnacle or P21S Paintwork Cleansing Lotion, Meguiar's Medallion Paint Cleaner, and Zymol HD-Cleanse with with a white, 100% cotton, bath towel. If that is not strong enough, you should use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze or Meguiar's Proffessional Hand Polish also with a white, 100% cotton, bath towel. If all that doesn't work, use 3M Perfect-It Swirl Mark Remover or Meguiar's Swirl Remover with the Porter Cable "Ultimate Detailing Machine." If all that still doesn't work, use Eagle One Scratch Remover. If it can't be removed, it's time to go to a proffessional.
I was would like to know from these products ranked from least-abrasive to most-abrasive: Kit Scratch Out, Meguiar's Gold Class Prep and Swirl Remover, or Meguiar's Mirror Glaze Swirl Remover. Thank you all very much!
my 2000 black JGC. While pouring some Heet fuel treatment into my gas tank some of it spilled onto the paint and left a hazy white stain. After trying to wash it off, using detailing spray, and Meguires cleaner wax, I have not been able to rid my paint of that stain. Please help!
You should try to run some Mineral Spirits (Paint Thinner)with a sponge while washing your car. It helped remove gas that I accidentally poured on the paint. Please be careful though, it's not called Paint Thinner for nothing!
97vdpguy:
I have had sucess with a number of chrome polishes which are available cheaply in a number of auto parts stores. They are Meguiar's Gold Glass Metal Polish and Mother's Chrome Polish. Mother's is superior for windows, too!
Thank you for the info mike_542, but to be honest paint thinner sounds very scary. Was the gasoline on your paint completely removed and did it remove any paint on your car?
I have a 2001 silver Eclipse Spyder. I just found a small white blotch on my passenger side door (about halfway up the door). I'm guessing some jerk with a white car dinged my door. I tried rubbing it off with my finger but no luck. However, the infected area is smooth and my fingernail doesn't catch anywhere. I'm hoping that it's just someone else's paint rubbed on and not my silver paint rubbed off. Any ideas or recommendations on how to get it off as cheaply and effectively as possible? Thanks in advance.
To do it really right, you should start with the LEAST abrasive and move on up the scale. In my experience most of these come off with any wax or polish or polymer. If they don't, then you should try claying the surface, but if you don't have clay (meguiars and Mothers have their own versions available at Pep Boys and other discount auto stores for from $16.95 to $19.95), it is a lot to invest for this limited purpose. Try a very mild abrasive such as any liquid polish that has abrasive in it. There are liquid polishing compounds too. If that doesn't work go to a polishing compound. Just remember to put a protective coat on the area after you get the paint off. You might want to try toothpaste which has a mild abrasive, but be careful as you don't want to take off too much clear coat or paint.
If the scratch isn't below the primed (white surface) it seems to work for me . . . All you need to do is apply steady pressure while buffing . . . the key is pressure!!! http://www.gs27.com
I have read perhaps a couple of dozen posts regarding this product. This is the first favorable one that I have seen. I am usually suspicious of items that say "As seen on TV", or that offer increasingly huge quantities for slightly more money and doubly so when the vast majority of people who have bothered to comment on it do so unfavorably. There seem to be lots of options which are more universally endorsed, but I will admit that I have not tried this product.
Is applying REAL elbow grease . . . you have to use steady pressure . . . I got a coat zipper scratch on my new 2001 dakota dark blue paint . . . and with a 2 minute buff job . . . hehehe . . . the scratch was gone . . . then I waxed over it!!! gs27 spells relief!
Can anyone recommend a good product for removing tar spots from alloy wheels? They are a little over 1 year old, and they also are turning brown in some spots. Is there a different product to get rid of the brown color?
With spring finally starting to appear, I will be getting my car out of storage for the summer, but that will leave my new 2001 suburban idle for most of the time, parked outside, under a tree. So I am considering ordering a fitted cover, but have read some cautions with respect to the damage that can result from poorly fitted covers. Does anyone have any experience with these in general, and for this large vehicle in particular? I am wondering if I would be further ahead washing the vehicle on a more regular basis, rather than go with a cover.
I have a 99 Olds, with white paint, that has developed little surface rust spots all over the car. The guy at Ming called it rail dust and recommended a treatment and deep wax.
You can solve your own problem by purchasing a product like clay magic, or mother's clay bar, or meguier's clay bar or zaino clay , follow the instructions and the rail dust will come right off. Follow with a coat of your favorite wax, and the surface will be slippery smooth. Total do-it yourself cost about 35.00. Clay is available at most auto parts store.
I traded cars with my daughter (gave her something better). The bumpers (black) and other vinyl trim looked like the car was in a scrapyard for a couple of years. I used the Mothers 'Back to Black" I was highly disappointed with it (I threw it away). I saw this stuff in the grocery store called "Cadillac Boot and Shoe Care" It is for Leather and Vinyl" made by "Cadillac Shoe Products Inc" the stuff really worked well. I also used it on the rubber trim around the windows. Did a great job on them. The stuff was 3 or 4 bucks and is in an eight ounce bottle. It restored better than Vinylex. I am not sure it has UV protection so I will follow with Vinylex. Just another opinion. Maybe someone knows something better???
I use a Brillo pad to cut the old film off the trim, and then apply "Black Chrome". I've also used black creme shoe polish which looked pretty good but may not last too long. But scrubbing the old black trim seems to really help....gets the "oxide" off and allows the treatment to seep in a bit.
I recently had a lot of success using a fine-cut rubbing compound on the back bumpers of my wife's car. They were so deteriorated I figured what the hell. I think this stuff worked. I spent several minutes rubbing and cleaning and I think I rubbed the oxidized rubber right off. The compound was a very fine grit. One used to polish after 1500-2000 grit sanding, so it polishes rather than scratches.
I just thumped bumpers with another car in a parking lot. His is fine, Mine's not. The right rear corner of the (plastic) bumper is now a shade lighter than the rest of the car. It's not dirt (i don't think anyway)... It's like the plastic is just a different color from stretching or something. The bumper is not deformed.
Does this make any sense and if so does anyone have any advice for me? I certainly don't want to bring insurance into this is if I can avoid it, but I don't know whether I've permanently screwed the thing up. It's a blue accord if that makes any difference.
[If this problem has been dealt with like 300 times already in this thread, I apologize]
Thanks! (I've also posted this in the Accord problems section)
Sorry if this has been covered before, but how soon should I think about waxing my new 2001 car? It came from the dealership looking nice and smooth, but should I go ahead and apply some wax right away, or can I wait awhile with the factory/dealer coating? I have a new 2001 Hyundai Elantra in silver (pewter is what they call it.) I've had it for 1 week now, and had it's first car wash today. Still looks pretty good to me.
You can wax right away. Waiting to wax was an issue years ago when enamel paint jobs took weeks to cure. But most all cars are painted in a basecoat/clearcoat method which cures quickly.
Use a high quality product with little or no cleaner. Come over and see us in Store Bought Waxes for hundreds of posts regarding what to use and how to use it.
Hi, I apologize if this has been covered but I've browsed the topics and not found it: I want a new black car. I cannot wax it often enough to keep the finish looking tip-top. I do not want to apply any special treatments myself, I am willing to pay a reasonable amount for a good product. Here's the big question: Is there any product that really keeps the finish looking good? I appreciate your input.
As a convert so complete that I sell it as a side line, I recommend Zaino. As a casual car admirer myself, I have found that this product line satisfies the most demanding of car afficianados but is equally suitable for the casual car caretaker; it's an easy-to-use synthetic, contains Ultraviolet ray protection, is long lasting, and lets the best of your car show through. Don't have much time? Then I believe that is another reason that this is the product for you. There is a forum in Edmunds Town Hall, Maintenance & Repair Forum, Zaino Car Care Experiences, or something very close to that, where it is discussed and on the predecessor forums. The company Internet site is zainobros.com. The products may seem somewhat pricey, but they can go a long way and are very effective.
If you don't want to work on the car very often, nu-finish seems to do a pretty good job--it really does seem to last 8+ months if you do a good job.
I think a key factor is getting the car *really* clean beforehand. I'm talking 2 or more washes and rinses with dawn and maybe even hitting the car with a paint cleaner..
I tried the zaino stuff, and i feel like i paid $50 for a normal wax. I'd avoid it.
I've used several products - Nu Finish being one of them (which I like, by the way). But I switched to Zaino and won't go back, for two reasons. 1) It's incredibly easy to use (ignore what people say about hours and hours of work, it's just not true), and 2) it beads for a long time. My last application of Z2 was in September. I hand washed the car last weekend, and it's beading almost as well as back then. As for Zaino being high priced, weigh out long-term costs. You use so little during an application that a bottle lasts a long time, which more than offsets the intial cost. You'll find that over the long term, Zaino costs very little more (if any) than store bought waxes. And no, I am not a Zaino distributer, just a user.
Sorry, but i tried the zaino alongside some other products.. Meguair's gold class and nu-finish. It didn't look any better than the other two ( in fact the gold class looked great but didn't last THAT long ), and it did bead longer than the meguiars, and almost as long as the nu-finish. The difference is that i picked up the nu-finish for $5. A bottle of the z may last for a long time if you put it on thin, but so will ANYTHING if you put it on thin. I've had the same bottle of wax for almost a year now. And there is a lot of work involved. Clay, prep layer, alternating layers of 2&5, etc. Lots of much cheaper products will look good if you wash the car 2 times, clay, and put on 3+ layers.
What Mr. Hanley doesn't disclose is that he is a Zaino basher who has sung the same tired song for months, if not years. As usual, he couldn't let one post of his failure to be impressed by Zaino stand; he had to recite his shtick again with its typical broadbrush exaggeration. One time he did tell us his underlying REAL reason for dumping on Zaino, he thinks there's something fishy about the Zaino distribution system. For some reason, Sal Zaino's preference for keeping control of the production and distribution of the products with his name and that he's making enough money doing it his way to be happy some how raises Mr. Hanley's suspicions. Fortunately, Mr. Hanley appears to be in the minority and his birdogging of the positive posts of Zaino has not affected reasonable people.
Wait, i'm biased against the product? Because I tried it and it didnt' care for it? This, coming from a distributor?
I don't know where you get the bit about my disliking it because of it's distribution method, but i don't like it because i discovered that it doesn't have the special qualities it claims, and is expensive, besides.
I'd be happy to leave it at that if you are so inclined.
I have a 2000 Mercury Sable gold sation wagon. Since I got it I never applied wax on it; however, after I year through the NY winter the roof and hood are just a little bit rough to the touch. The car looks good and shiny but water doesn't bead on it as much as when it was brand new. I also have a couple of scratches on it; one deeper than the other but neither requiring bodywork. Someone keyed it.
I have received estimates ranging from $90 to $150 to compund, glaze and wax it. My question is: Is there a product out there that will help me clean up the most exposed areas, roof and hood without a circular buffer? The wax would be Zaino or Meguiar. I am not a professional and never performed this job. I want to do it to save myself some money but I do not want to spend hours of elbow grease.
I apologize for the lenght of this post and appreciate your advise.
If the key marks are not as bad as they sound, they can probably be buffed out or made almost invisible. Since your car hasn't seen too many wax jobs, it'll need some work to get it close to showroom shiny. I used to have lots of customers like yourself. My suggestion always was/is to spend the $$ and have a professional detail your car once a year. They can remove scratches, stains, dull paint, etc. Then you maintain the car throughout the year. Use whatever car care products you like. That way your car looks pretty good all year without tons of work.
Most of us in here are car nuts who like washing and waxing. We're weird but we know that it's easier to maintain a car regularly than wait till it gets nasty and try to bring it back. Your car isn't too far gone and a pro detailer should be able to make your car look like new.
2 questions... a while ago I had a pick up decide to spray my neon with the small rocks found on the shoulder of many roads. I just recently noticed that there is a small chip on my hood only about 2-3mm in diameter and it is straight rust now. I know I cant fill that in with touch up paint until i get rid of that rust. Is there any way I can get rid of it without sanding so I dont damage the paint around it? Also, I'm looking for a decent wax for my car that lasts quite a while. I remember seeing the color-matched waxes on an infomercial a long while ago and I recently saw the same stuff in the local autozone. My car has a good amount of hairline scratches and I remember this wax having a quality whereas it fills those scratches. Anyone in here ever had any experience with those waxes and if so would you use it again? Thanks.
Comments
opiesan
Later
I have been a silent reader for some weeks now and I greatly appreciate all the great tips on how to fix paint chips and the discussions on waxes, etc. Thanks.
Use high-quality, white, Made in USA, all cotton towels from a bath store or department, not from a car parts store or the bulk towels sold in discount stores by weight.
Many thanks.
What is the best kind of product to use to clean/polish chrome? I don't want to use anything harsh.
Do you just wax it with the rest of the car, or do you use something special on it.
Thanx!
97vdpguy:
I have had sucess with a number of chrome polishes which are available cheaply in a number of auto parts stores. They are Meguiar's Gold Glass Metal Polish and Mother's Chrome Polish. Mother's is superior for windows, too!
If the scratch isn't below the primed (white surface) it seems to work for me . . .
All you need to do is apply steady pressure while buffing . . . the key is pressure!!!
http://www.gs27.com
I got a coat zipper scratch on my new 2001 dakota dark blue paint . . . and with a 2 minute buff job . . . hehehe . . . the scratch was gone . . . then I waxed over it!!!
gs27 spells relief!
http://www.covercraft.com/
Has anyone had experience with this problem?
Thanks!
Al
Al
The right rear corner of the (plastic) bumper is now a shade lighter than the rest of the car. It's not dirt (i don't think anyway)... It's like the plastic is just a different color from stretching or something. The bumper is not deformed.
Does this make any sense and if so does anyone have any advice for me? I certainly don't want to bring insurance into this is if I can avoid it, but I don't know whether I've permanently screwed the thing up.
It's a blue accord if that makes any difference.
[If this problem has been dealt with like 300 times already in this thread, I apologize]
Thanks!
(I've also posted this in the Accord problems section)
Use a high quality product with little or no cleaner. Come over and see us in Store Bought Waxes for hundreds of posts regarding what to use and how to use it.
I want a new black car. I cannot wax it often enough to keep the finish looking tip-top. I do not want to apply any special treatments myself, I am willing to pay a reasonable amount for a good product. Here's the big question: Is there any product that really keeps the finish looking good? I appreciate your input.
I think a key factor is getting the car *really* clean beforehand. I'm talking 2 or more washes and rinses with dawn and maybe even hitting the car with a paint cleaner..
I tried the zaino stuff, and i feel like i paid $50 for a normal wax. I'd avoid it.
dave
dave
I don't know where you get the bit about my disliking it because of it's distribution method, but i don't like it because i discovered that it doesn't have the special qualities it claims, and is expensive, besides.
I'd be happy to leave it at that if you are so inclined.
dave
after I year through the NY winter the roof and hood are just a little bit rough to the touch. The car looks good and shiny but water doesn't bead on it as much as when it was brand new. I also have a couple of scratches on it; one deeper than the other but neither requiring bodywork. Someone keyed it.
I have received estimates ranging from $90 to $150
to compund, glaze and wax it.
My question is: Is there a product out there that will help me clean up the most exposed areas, roof
and hood without a circular buffer? The wax would
be Zaino or Meguiar. I am not a professional and
never performed this job. I want to do it to save
myself some money but I do not want to spend hours
of elbow grease.
I apologize for the lenght of this post and appreciate your advise.
Most of us in here are car nuts who like washing and waxing. We're weird but we know that it's easier to maintain a car regularly than wait till it gets nasty and try to bring it back. Your car isn't too far gone and a pro detailer should be able to make your car look like new.